shiftyeye

I recently bought new (yet average) rotors and brakes for my 1991 Honda Accord LX 4 Door. After stripping one of the 4 - 14mm bolts holding down the rotor, I decided to take it to Midas. I was quoted $150.00 to put on the parts I purchased w/o warranty of course ( basically 1.5 hours of labor at $100 p/h). Okay fine, I can deal with that, I work, etc., when i picked it up today, the service manager informed me that the rotors were actually pressed on, and a special tool was needed, and that the total time increased from 1.5 hours to 3.5 hours (I paid him $350.00). Can anyone tell me if the rotors for this particular model are indeed pressed on, or did I basically get bent over? Or, can they just be so old, rusted, etc. that the tool would be necessary, and if so, would it really take add an additional 1 hour per rotor to swap out? Can anyone out there set me straight! Thanks, ScottyJ

91accordwithwork

lol yes they really are pressed

the same thing happened to me but insted of paying that way extra i decided to just deal with the lack of brakeing i have

lol idk what else to do u no

__________________
heres my mod. list


-painted valve cover
-new headers
-new high flow obx resonator
-new carbon fiber exaust tip
-new p.s pump
-new radiator
-new belt
-new injen ram intake
-new strut bar
-new deck (installed myself)
-new speakers

-not bad for learning as i went and not having shit for help besides u great guys

i think thats around all i did, tok a few months but im happy with it!

and after all that theres a small puddle of oil under my intake on my engine.....
the fun never ends!

BrutalB83

Uh, save up some damn money and get it fixed maybe? Put it on a credit card and pay it off?

Bad brakes are a safety hazard. If you let them get really worn your breaking power will be substantially decreased, and you're likely to get in a wreck where you could hurt yourself or others.

I'm sorry but a lot of the crap you say on here is just completely inane, even for a newbie. Every time you post something I like you less and less, and I didn't like you much to begin with...

__________________
If you find something I say helpful, please rep it up!

Also, DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums so we can all benefit from the answers. I will NOT respond to tech-related PMs...

97 Integra LS Coupe:
*AEM Intake/Megan Header/Magnaflow Exhaust
*Tokico Shocks & Springs
*Megan Strut Braces & H-Brace
*98-01 Conversion (Front/Rear Bumpers & "Mesh" Alloys)

Hondadude141

To be honest the time they charged you is what an average shop would, 3-4 hours is normal, however they do not take that much time, and there is nothing you can do about that. The rotors are pressed on but with an Air hammer you can very easily hammer them off and on. for a good airhammer, you'd be looing at 300 - 500 dollars

__________________

Hondadude141

i bet he'll change his mind when:

1. - he skids off a hill because his brakes are gone
2.- he hits someone else because he couldn't stop at a redlight
3. - he ruins his calipers, rotors, pads, and lines for a lovely repair cost of somewhere right around 1000 dollars or even more.

Im going to have to agree with Brutal on this, You were okay to deal with at first but seriously.. You have got to learn that "cosmetic" upgrades come AFTER " mechanical problems" and if you swap that order you are screwed, you have a car that doesn't run and you want to fix it, thats good, but evedentually you have no mechanical abilities whatsoever. Read books, find an old junker car to tear apart and learn, but don't pester us with stupid things. sheesh.....

__________________

91accordwithwork

actully my pads arnt even worn, its my one rotor

__________________
heres my mod. list


-painted valve cover
-new headers
-new high flow obx resonator
-new carbon fiber exaust tip
-new p.s pump
-new radiator
-new belt
-new injen ram intake
-new strut bar
-new deck (installed myself)
-new speakers

-not bad for learning as i went and not having shit for help besides u great guys

i think thats around all i did, tok a few months but im happy with it!

and after all that theres a small puddle of oil under my intake on my engine.....
the fun never ends!

nootrac22

No the rotors are not pressed on, but it is quite difficult to get them off. In the repair manual for the car it will state clearly that they can be removed once all the 12pt bolts are taken out, but they do usually have to be pressed off. They get wedged on there pretty tightly do to the heat generated from breaking

nootrac22

1. If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Section 6 of this manual.
2. Loosen the lug nuts, then Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. Please refer to Section 8 for procedures.
5. Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit.

Remove the 4 bolts retaining the hub unit to the steering knuckle and remove the hub unit/rotor assembly
Click to Enlarge

1. Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor.

Remove the 4 bolts, then separate the hub unit from the brake rotor
Click to Enlarge
To install:

1. Assemble the disc to the hub unit and tighten the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
2. When installing the hub to the knuckle, use new self-locking bolts and tighten them to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
3. Install the steering knuckle.
4. Lower the vehicle and check for proper brake operation.
5. If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.

4U2H8ME

I actually have that special tool, it resembles the old school steering wheel removing tool. I've done that job in 2 hours, 1 hour for each side. Without that tool the steering knuckles have to be removed, and hub pressed out.

91accordwithwork

nice i really need to get my brakes done....

__________________
heres my mod. list


-painted valve cover
-new headers
-new high flow obx resonator
-new carbon fiber exaust tip
-new p.s pump
-new radiator
-new belt
-new injen ram intake
-new strut bar
-new deck (installed myself)
-new speakers

-not bad for learning as i went and not having shit for help besides u great guys

i think thats around all i did, tok a few months but im happy with it!

and after all that theres a small puddle of oil under my intake on my engine.....
the fun never ends!

4U2H8ME

$45 dollars, snap-on

Hondadude141

haha yep, i've had too many problems with the new snap on stuff... their products aren't as great any more... I use Matco or Cornwell

__________________

91accordwithwork

yah

__________________
heres my mod. list


-painted valve cover
-new headers
-new high flow obx resonator
-new carbon fiber exaust tip
-new p.s pump
-new radiator
-new belt
-new injen ram intake
-new strut bar
-new deck (installed myself)
-new speakers

-not bad for learning as i went and not having shit for help besides u great guys

i think thats around all i did, tok a few months but im happy with it!

and after all that theres a small puddle of oil under my intake on my engine.....
the fun never ends!

Hondadude141

Oh so you know what Matco and Cornwell are? And you know what tool we are talkin about?

__________________

budda

I know. FIX IT!

craiger

I have bought so many honda's 90-93 accord because the brakes were bad/rotors warped and the person selling the car either didn't know what was wrong or the mechanic quoted them a real high price to fix them. Have made alot of money off of these year accords. As the earlier thread mentioned thay are not pressed on, you just have to remove the four bolts on the back and it does come apart with special tool mentioned as well. Then you can replace the rotors with new ones and the brakes are like brand new. Correct me if I am wrong but don't they have a special rotor turner that works with the rotor still on the car? That might be cheaper for you the next time if there is still plenty of meat left on the rotor.

zone90cb7lx

hmmm, my rotor came of easy, my homie from an auto shop helped me put my new ones on, but i wonder if the previuos owner tried to do it himself with my car, cuz they slipped right off. no wonder they were bad.... glad i fixed em right when i got it, but now im thinkin about takin the slotted rotors off as i heard they are not all that great...

__________________
1990 accord lx-predator intake-obx header and down pipe-obx resonator-tune up-belts,gaskets,fluids-17" rims and tires-only 83,500 orig. miles,more to come....
"to my suprise i discover that i really dont know much and most of what i know catches a...what?"-atmophere

zone90cb7lx

go to a private auto shop owner, chill there for a while, chit chat with em. stop by every now and then. garantee you they'll give you a better price. i bought him berr, he let me take the old ones off in his shiop and he put the new ones on and i finished up the rest....problem solved

__________________
1990 accord lx-predator intake-obx header and down pipe-obx resonator-tune up-belts,gaskets,fluids-17" rims and tires-only 83,500 orig. miles,more to come....
"to my suprise i discover that i really dont know much and most of what i know catches a...what?"-atmophere

zone90cb7lx