lenz973

Hey ppl what's going on? I'm new to this site and have read comments ppl have made about taking a h22 motor out and replacing it with a k series. I have a 99 accord and did the h22 swap, and have modified the engine alot, but still my friends in lighter civics are able 2 fly right by me. I was considering going all out and dropping turbo into the vehcile, but if i'm able to do a k series swap for alot less and enjoy a good amount of power by doing minor things... is it worth it. k20a4 block from the new accords with the rsx head.

powerdriverh22

what is done to your h22? you say alot...but what. help us out. what are your buddies driving...what do they have done. the h22 turbo is going to destroy the k20 swap. id say turbo the h22....but i still want to know what you have done to the h22

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94 Accord, JDM h22a, bpi velocity stack, euro r tb, ported head, ss flat valves, s2p1 cams, bold fab header (fs), 3in exhaust

get_nick

that's not necessarily true. it won't destroy it. a stock h22 turbo will only put out around 240 to the wheels. the k-series can put down 200 or so with a lot more tq. he needs tq to pull that heave ass car.

if i was you, i would leave the accord with the h22 in it. it's not a race car. that's why eg's are going to beat you. they weigh 1000 pounds less.

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Calesta

No way. You can easily put down 350whp on a stock internal H22 with boost if you know what you're doing.

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powerdriverh22

are you serious 240?? no...turbo h22's on 12lbs can make well over 300. on 9 they make 280. it is more than safe to run 9lbs and make 280whp. 12lbs and 300+ is a little more risky but as long as you get a good tune there will be no problems.

and 200 out of a stock k20 to the wheels? i dont think so. they put down the same as the h22 with less tq. remember its smaller displacement. i have no problem puttin cars on rsx's, k20swap civis, etc. i have some boltons and hondata. true my car is lighter than the 98-02 model but the h22 with boost WILL DESTROY THE STOCK K20 SWAP. dont wast your money on the k20...not nearly enough tq. turbo the h22 and make 280whp. im not sure where this guy got 240

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94 Accord, JDM h22a, bpi velocity stack, euro r tb, ported head, ss flat valves, s2p1 cams, bold fab header (fs), 3in exhaust

lenz973

I guess i'm frustrated because since I swapped the motor I've always had problems. My motor rocks hard and there's a euro accord mount that I haven't been been able to get. That causes all kinds of problems, ripped my tp sensor, map sensor, cracked my intake manifold as far as my car and the work that i've put into it. I had to change the intake manifold so i now have a skunk2, i have dc headers, aem v2 intake. I was gonna get ready 2 port and polish the head, change my whole valve train, but i feel like i haven't gotten my money's worth out of the car and if i continue to upgrade things, like cams, pulleys, fuel rail, regulator, i still don't think i could generate enough whp going all motor. my friend has a gsr in his bubble. when we're on the highway and start messing around he smokes me bad. my other friend has a 93 civic with a b16 in it and he's pretty quick too.. i know i'm heavy which bugs me, but I'm trying to think what's the best way to create whp where i can get like 200 and if i wanna go turbo then do it.

lenz973

this might be for another forum, but everything i've heard about going turbo on the h22 has been negative.. the blocks can't really take it. and i've gotten advice that if i plan to do so i'd be spending alot of money, but is it worth sending my block out to golden eagle, and spending all that money to go turbo and not even be able 2 push out alot of hp. I guess it's bragging rights but there are some k series swaps in bubbles and crx's, even integras that i personally seen beat turbo cars. i'm just trying to have my car ready for next spring/summer where i can have a drastic improvement my car's performance.

Turbo&Auto

Whats your budget?

If you pull that big ass wing off the back it might move faster

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Calesta

Nah, 300whp is almost a given on a turbo H22. 200whp is almost standard for an install plus a few all motor bolt ons without even going inside the block. The internals can handle 350whp if you know what you're doing.

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Bukloy04

wat can he do to the h22 block to make it with stand 350+ whp and how much would that cost? im thinkin to get a h22a but i saw something bout a f20b n im really confused. i don want to get the h22 and have it blow up.

Calesta

Absolutely nothing- all you have to do is choose the right turbo and tune the whole setup very well.

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powerdriverh22

there are ppl makeing 400 whp with the stock block!!! now thats not going to last all that long but it can be done.

it is important to note the weak points of the h22. it is not the sleeves....you will find very few that have actually broke the stock frm sleeves. they are very strong and were designed to be that way. the ring lands on the h22 pistons are thin and that is ususally what gives way first..mainly under detonation. the other weak point are the rod bolts.

so to build the block...send it to golden eagle, erl, darton, etc etc and get it sleeved. give them some good forged pistons (arias, cp, je etc) and rods (crower are some of the best) and have them assemble the bottom end and blue print it. generally costs 3000-4000 dollars for it all

your block is now ready for well over 600hp.

there is a h22 on hondatech that made 532whp on the stock block. it lasted 8 months until he dropped a valve...the motor didnt blow up...it only dropped a valve and messed up the motor real nice.

so dont ever let someone tell you the h22 isnt good for boost.

if you already have an f22 stick with that bottom end and put on an h23 or h22 head and build the f22 bottom end. you will get the same net hp and it will be cheaper to build.

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94 Accord, JDM h22a, bpi velocity stack, euro r tb, ported head, ss flat valves, s2p1 cams, bold fab header (fs), 3in exhaust

lenz973

well reducing weight is important so i should take off that wing? and I'm up here in nj, so not too many ppl have seen the prelude swap in my 99 accord. I started talking to this guy down in florida and the work that i was gonna put in just to do the valve train and work the head up alone he was saying close to about 2,000 on parts and labor. as far as the block to send it to golden eagle is about 900-1,000? i'm not even sure. my budget has no limit it's all within time frame. From now until may-june the latest i want to make my care more powerful and quicker, but I don't want to buy things don't help me in the long run. I haven't run all motor correctly yet, so maybe i'll wait 1 more year before doing turbo, but I just feel a lil down about the swap, so when next year comes i want to notice a huge difference. What's the most I can get all motor before going turbo? and what should I work on that'll help increase whp now and won't be a waste when I slap on the turbo kit?

powerdriverh22

hondata is about the only option. all motor and turbo are completly different. cams wont help because you need a special profile for turbo applications and would not be good until you had boost. no need to open up the tb or intake mani because you are going to be shoving air down the motors throat. if you had a race car ya but not neccessary for a daily driver. pulley kits are a big waste of money.

other things that you could do to prepare for more power would be limited slip, clutch, and plenty or suspension parts.

those will help get the power to the ground and keep it there. you dont want the body "squating" that takes weight off of the front tires when you launch or shift gears. you want to keep the back end stiff...same with the front.

that is about all you could do without wasteing your money

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94 Accord, JDM h22a, bpi velocity stack, euro r tb, ported head, ss flat valves, s2p1 cams, bold fab header (fs), 3in exhaust

lenz973

well i do i have a p28 computer that has hondata.. I was able to tune the car part way, they told me once i got all the parts that i needed come back and they'll tune the car all the way. so i'll head up there to let them do it. but the only thing you think that can help me where i'll see a difference is changing my clutch and flywheel to a performance clutch?

powerdriverh22

if your going boost dont mess with the flywheel. just a clutch, limited slip differential, and suspension. by doing some more suspension work on my accord i picked up .3 at the track!

if you do have hondata and have the ability to tune it you could get your fuel system ready. so bigger injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator. leave the ignition system alone (wires, coil etc), you could get a 3in exhaust...it will hurt you all motor but if you are going to go boost it will help when you do. other than those things you dont have much to play with. boost is pretty much an all at once thing.

if you built the block with stock compression pistons of 10:1 or 10.5 that would help until you got the actual turbo parts. so you could build the block now put it back in the car and then save up for the turbo.

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94 Accord, JDM h22a, bpi velocity stack, euro r tb, ported head, ss flat valves, s2p1 cams, bold fab header (fs), 3in exhaust

lenz973

well i'm planning to leave the car all motor for 1 more year, then set it up for turbo. The exhaust I should leave at 2.5? I should change the clutch and leave the flywheel still? What suspension should I look for and change? all the turbo moves I'll wait for next year. This year I'll do as much work as I can to get the car faster all motor. Injectors, fuel regulator, fuel rail, no pulleys right?

powerdriverh22

get a 3in exhaust when you go turbo (if your are shooting for 300hp or more) other wise 2.5 will probably do a job. injectors and fuel pump will be all of the fuel stuff you will need...but you will need something like hondata, crome, uberdata to tune the car with bigger injectors. not sure about the regulator. no pullys, no flywheel, no other crap that you dont need. why do you want to make the car faster all motor if you are going boost next year? you will be only digging yourself a hole.

suspension, buy a cheap coil over kit put skunk 2 drag (race) springs on the back and front. they are 50 dollars a piece. i have 800lb on the rear, so 800 in the rear, 600 in the front will probably do. get tokico or other adjustable struts to stiffen it up a lil more for drag days.

a limited slip will also help you out alot.

also look for some good tires

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94 Accord, JDM h22a, bpi velocity stack, euro r tb, ported head, ss flat valves, s2p1 cams, bold fab header (fs), 3in exhaust

lenz973

I guess because right now i'm dealing with my friends wanting to race me in their lighter cars. I know they should be able 2 beat me, but it's not even close and I refuse to believe that the weight has that much of an effect that i get left back so far. I just don't want to be riding behind for another year, if I can upgrade in anyway I'd jump on that chance right away.

BrutalB83

Yeah, not that it matters much, since it seems like you've decided on sticking with the H22, but the new Accords have K24s actually, not K20s.

lenz973

I'm not sure if i should start a new post, but since I'm talking about my car, my head is out now because the head gasket blew. aside from doing the whole valve train what else would you recommend, I have another block that i'm gonna send out later to golden eagle so this block i'm gonna leave... should i mess with the camshafts? any suggestions?

lenz973

Sounds ridiculous but ppl have been telling me i can spend all that money to build my h22 up and someone who drops a k series in my body style and basically run me stock can smoke me so easily... I feel like I'm losing my mind..not sure to trust the k series idea with the tsx set up, because i'll save a whole lot right?

powerdriverh22

hahahahahahahaha no.

tell that to the ppl with k20 civics and rsx's that see accord tail lights

if you built the h22 there is no possible way that the stock k20 swap could beat you...now if the motors had similar mods then yes the k series could walk away from you.

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94 Accord, JDM h22a, bpi velocity stack, euro r tb, ported head, ss flat valves, s2p1 cams, bold fab header (fs), 3in exhaust

lenz973

yeah but if i built it up for turbo not all motor.. by doing minor thing to the kseries motor they gain so much hp and are strong motors, torque, everything.. I know certain civics/integras/and of course crxs with k series swaps that beat certain turbo vehicles or give them such a hard time.. I know i'm heavy but I want to be fast also without spending so much. I don't want to spend a large amount of money and someone not spend even half what i did on a kseries and beat me badly.. lol..

oopma

look if you dont love your car that much put the f22 in it and take out the h22 sale you car and get an eg put that h22 in it and you have a beast or drop 5 grand in to the h22 and get it built by jg i have a friend who has an eg with a h23 vtec built by jg and he runs 11.5 on street tires not bad for 6 grand all motor but that heavy ass accord is going to slow u down