Andrew's engine swap (pics)
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91_civic_si
Member
I really hope it is something easy like your axles. I thought my noise was the axles that were supposed to be 91 civic b16 axles. I got new ones for 90 integra axle for pass side and 89 integra for dr side. It still made a noise. I still thought it was the axles so I bought custom axles for sh3 intermediate shaft from Raxles. Still had noise. It was in the factory diff (y1 lsd tranny) the plates were just worn out and causing severe binding but only when you turned.
hmm... I don't think the axeles are different. The main difference in the 90-91 cable trannies from the 92-93 cable trannies is that the main shaft has a higher spline count on the 92-93 trannies. I suppose there could be a difference in the axles but i'm not 100% positive. Try out some 90-91 axles, maybe you might have some luck
if not, definately look into what I was talking about earlier with the intermediate shaft.B-series.
These are by far the most popular swaps. They are fairly easy for the average joe to do and are pretty fast right out of the box (errr…clip). But in doing a b-series swap you WILL need to do some things in order for this swap to work:
-Get some mounts. I like Hasports as do many others but Place Racing, HCP, and some others make them as well. NOTE: the B16 JRSC fits with Place Racing mounts in the EF chassis. I have done it. I don’t know about the other mount kits. If you know, please tell me.
-You have to either find EF SiR shift linkage or you can shorten 90-93 integra shift linkage by 2-3/8†. I do the latter because DA linkage is easy to find and its cheap. I also always shorten it in the straightest portion possible. The 3rd option is to get some adjustable shift linkage From Hasport or Place Racing.
-You need (maybe not NEED) a tranny that has a Cable actuated clutch. This will be covered on a case by case basis in the motor portion of this guide.
-If you have a Dual-Point car you will NEED to convert it to Multi-Point. If you are going the VTEC route you will need to wire the VTEC stuff in all EFs no matter the trim level.
-VTEC wiring; wires to add if using PR3/PW0:
o Pin A8 – VTEC solenoid.
o Pin B5 – VTEC oil pressure switch (plug with 2 wires, Black is ground)
o Pin B19 – Knock sensor.
o Pin C8 – Second oxygen sensor
-Get some 90-93 integra axles, JDM EF SiR axles (good luck finding them if they didn’t come with your swap) or get custom ones. You need to have a 90-93 teg intermediate shaft with the teg axles and an SiR int shaft with the SiR axles. If you get customs ones ask the manufacturer of the axles which intermediate shaft you should use.
-If using 90-93 axles, take out the dust rings on your knuckles. Also take off the dust rings on the axles. It sucks but you pretty much need the clearance for the axles. Try to stay out of the dirt.
-You need a 90-93 integra throttle cable (except if you are going JRSC, then you can use the stock one).
-You need to make a large dent in the frame rail right below the shock tower (right under the rectangular hole). This dent clears the alternator pulley. NOTE: if you’re putting a JRSC in this dent will NEED to be further forward and a lot deeper. Trust me. Experience talking. We pulled the motor a few times messing with this.
-Your stock exhaust probably wont bolt up (if it does you are lucky). If you are using a stock exhaust manifold on the b-series then you can use you stock D-series down pipe on the b-series manifold. But what you really should do is get rid of the stock manifold, buy a header, and get some 2.25†exhaust made at a muffler shop. Or you could buy an aftermarket cat-back exhaust and get it modified to fit. Either way you WILL want to get rid of that 1.5†crush bent stock crap and the stock header/downpipe.
I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but it really isn’t when you get down to it.
I think your B16 swap came with CRX SiR intermediate shaft. and you need to get a 90-93 integra intermediate shaft.
These are by far the most popular swaps. They are fairly easy for the average joe to do and are pretty fast right out of the box (errr…clip). But in doing a b-series swap you WILL need to do some things in order for this swap to work:
-Get some mounts. I like Hasports as do many others but Place Racing, HCP, and some others make them as well. NOTE: the B16 JRSC fits with Place Racing mounts in the EF chassis. I have done it. I don’t know about the other mount kits. If you know, please tell me.
-You have to either find EF SiR shift linkage or you can shorten 90-93 integra shift linkage by 2-3/8†. I do the latter because DA linkage is easy to find and its cheap. I also always shorten it in the straightest portion possible. The 3rd option is to get some adjustable shift linkage From Hasport or Place Racing.
-You need (maybe not NEED) a tranny that has a Cable actuated clutch. This will be covered on a case by case basis in the motor portion of this guide.
-If you have a Dual-Point car you will NEED to convert it to Multi-Point. If you are going the VTEC route you will need to wire the VTEC stuff in all EFs no matter the trim level.
-VTEC wiring; wires to add if using PR3/PW0:
o Pin A8 – VTEC solenoid.
o Pin B5 – VTEC oil pressure switch (plug with 2 wires, Black is ground)
o Pin B19 – Knock sensor.
o Pin C8 – Second oxygen sensor
-Get some 90-93 integra axles, JDM EF SiR axles (good luck finding them if they didn’t come with your swap) or get custom ones. You need to have a 90-93 teg intermediate shaft with the teg axles and an SiR int shaft with the SiR axles. If you get customs ones ask the manufacturer of the axles which intermediate shaft you should use.
-If using 90-93 axles, take out the dust rings on your knuckles. Also take off the dust rings on the axles. It sucks but you pretty much need the clearance for the axles. Try to stay out of the dirt.
-You need a 90-93 integra throttle cable (except if you are going JRSC, then you can use the stock one).
-You need to make a large dent in the frame rail right below the shock tower (right under the rectangular hole). This dent clears the alternator pulley. NOTE: if you’re putting a JRSC in this dent will NEED to be further forward and a lot deeper. Trust me. Experience talking. We pulled the motor a few times messing with this.
-Your stock exhaust probably wont bolt up (if it does you are lucky). If you are using a stock exhaust manifold on the b-series then you can use you stock D-series down pipe on the b-series manifold. But what you really should do is get rid of the stock manifold, buy a header, and get some 2.25†exhaust made at a muffler shop. Or you could buy an aftermarket cat-back exhaust and get it modified to fit. Either way you WILL want to get rid of that 1.5†crush bent stock crap and the stock header/downpipe.
I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but it really isn’t when you get down to it.
I think your B16 swap came with CRX SiR intermediate shaft. and you need to get a 90-93 integra intermediate shaft.
Andrew
Active Member
This interests me... maybe this is something I should do?
hmm.....
The reason I don't jump to conclusions about the axles being wrong is because they worked FINE in the civic I just pulled it out of.... so it's got to be something with my knucles/hubs.
I just messaged the guy that did the swap originally in the civic, so we'll see what he says as to what axles/int. shaft he used.
zccivic200hp
New Member
the maine relay wood be still be good,ok just open it up and reheat the board with a sawder!
91_civic_si
Member
zccivic200hp
New Member
when the maine relay work and dosent work open the relay and reheat de board , the maine relay are allways good ,they only go bad because of on a off from starting the car
this is a message from a quote that dated about a week a go , he had problem with his maine relay ! and this is what he chould of did to save his $$$$
daveholiday
Do work
tell me what it has to do with this thread though?
and I guess I'll share some interesting info since we're off topic..I work at wendys, was scheduled 9 to 5 today, got a call from my manager at 7:45 saying don't worry about work for the next couple days, we're closed, turns out a drunk 19 year old kid drove a ford f350 INTO our drivethrough, like the truck was in our kitchen, the estimates are around $100k, I took mad pics, and it's just kinda freaky, like if it had happened 20 minutes earlier (happened around 12:45 am,) a few of my close friends would have been dead.
Just some food for thought
and I guess I'll share some interesting info since we're off topic..I work at wendys, was scheduled 9 to 5 today, got a call from my manager at 7:45 saying don't worry about work for the next couple days, we're closed, turns out a drunk 19 year old kid drove a ford f350 INTO our drivethrough, like the truck was in our kitchen, the estimates are around $100k, I took mad pics, and it's just kinda freaky, like if it had happened 20 minutes earlier (happened around 12:45 am,) a few of my close friends would have been dead.
Just some food for thought
zccivic200hp
New Member
i no t not on the right page it for page 18 when he thault that he had a problem with his fuel pompe! and for the 350 in your kitchen , you got picof that (drive in ) ha ha ha but luck for you !
puncuation!!!!
daveholiday
Do work
I think I understand some of it
but yeah, I got pics of the whole thing, and I found the autobody shop where the 350 is, and for running through a wall, there's not much done to the truck.
but back on topic, Andrew, please, for all of us, get this working
but yeah, I got pics of the whole thing, and I found the autobody shop where the 350 is, and for running through a wall, there's not much done to the truck.
but back on topic, Andrew, please, for all of us, get this working
Andrew
Active Member
lawlz... I drive the car every day...
I had the problem on page 18, and I think I fixed it on page 18. haha
I'm going to pick n pull and unbolting my turbo today.
I'll post up some pics lata!
daveholiday
Do work
I've been tired all day. Upload it when you feel like it lol. What kind is it?
Andrew
Active Member
It's got an internal WG, and BOV! (stealth ftw)
It's definatly going to need a rebuild. It's got oil in the compressor outlet, so I"ll go ahead and rebuild it and clean it up before it gets used. I'll definitely sandblast the housings and stuff... it'll be lookin good ^_^
daveholiday
Do work
nice nice. Internal BOV? never heard of that, but then again, I went through my turbo thing, knew exactly what I wanted, got it, and sold it all as soon as I bought it, I bitched out and scared myself into thinking I was gonna blow my shit up. I heard though that using water cooled turbos aren't good for hmt kits unless your actually gonna water cool it?
mac_24_seven
@pump_upp - best crypto pumps on telegram !
Awesome man.. very pleased.
I'm surprised you could tar yourself away from the girls long enough to get to the pick n pull. At least you have SOME priorities straight
I'm surprised you could tar yourself away from the girls long enough to get to the pick n pull. At least you have SOME priorities straight
