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Old 01-31-2007, 08:32 PM   #426
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Well, I guess I was wrong.
I just plugged a different relay in there and it was doing the same thing.
I checked all the fuses, and the only one that was blown was the radio/cig lighter.

Tomorrow I guess I'll check voltage on the pump.
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Old 02-01-2007, 04:14 PM   #427
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did you check the starter fuse....top right in the cabin box
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Old 02-01-2007, 08:00 PM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formby View Post
did you check the starter fuse....top right in the cabin box
we got it working tonight. Turns out one of his friends grounded the ingine fuse panel box to a stud thatwas surrounded by plastic. The stud alone wasnt enough to juice up the fuel pump.

price we pay for having help.
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:56 AM   #429
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taco15 View Post
price we pay for having help.
No joke dude... I've had to fixed a handfull of things because of that.
Shoulda just done it myself


But yeah, we got it going. I'm still gonna have to fix that stupid coolant line(the 3" one on the heater hose valve), but thats it.

I gotta get this thing tuned!! Test 'n Tune at the 'strip is on the 16th!!!
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Old 02-02-2007, 05:57 PM   #430
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Went out there and beat on it some more. feels awsome.

KMS sent me a full spec list of what they did and what everything is(size wise)
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Originally Posted by KMS
Stage 2 Head
Ultimate Valve Train
Cam
Head Kit
Pistons 11:1 75.50mm Bore
Lightened Fly Wheel
New Clutch
Crank Work
Oil Pump
Bottom End Kit
Boring
Assembly
Shot Peened Rods & Balance
Went through and rebuilt rocker arm assembly.

VALVE TIMING INFORMATION

Engine: Honda VTEC 1.6 Liter SOHC

Grind #: 498-513-461/13

Intake Exhaust
Valve Lash: .007 .011
Valve Lift: .365 .350
Duration: 271 235
Duration @ .020:
Lobe Center:


Intake Before Exhaust Before
Opens TDC Opens BDC

Intake After Exhaust After
Closes BDC Closes TDC

Valve Timing Is Checked With Zero Valve Lash
@ .020 Inches Of Valve Lift.
This site has a chart of S2 Stage 2 cams.
Says that peak lift is (in).306", (ex).297". That means my cam is more aggressive?
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Last edited by Andrew; 02-02-2007 at 06:02 PM.
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Old 02-02-2007, 06:57 PM   #431
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the bigger the numbers, the more aggressive the cam.

believe it or not, the stage 1 cam for my mirage is .350 .350 lol
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:45 PM   #432
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believe it or not, the stage 1 cam for my mirage is .350 .350 lol

it needs all the help it can get....





jk
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Old 02-04-2007, 12:48 PM   #433
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:P
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Old 02-04-2007, 02:45 PM   #434
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Well guys, I've got some of the problems fixed, but I'm still leaking oil.





Low, by starter:


VTEC selenoid area:


Axles:


I know it's kinda hard to see the oil, cause it's so clean[i-thank-you], but maybe you guys get the idea...
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Old 02-04-2007, 02:52 PM   #435
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damn car looks SICK the wire tuck turned out great!
really clean crx over all nicely done
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Old 02-04-2007, 04:48 PM   #436
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I can't see the oil.
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Old 02-04-2007, 05:09 PM   #437
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Yeah, o well.. I'll see whats up sooner or later. maybe some better pics
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Old 02-04-2007, 06:17 PM   #438
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make sure that the head was properly toqued on the front side, by the vtec solenoid, have seen this happen to a lot of people.
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Old 02-04-2007, 07:34 PM   #439
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Yeah I'm working on getting a solid tune ASAP.
And I tried calling KMS today to make sure he torqued everything down , but he didn't answer.

Anyway, just another one of those things....
Luckily it's not a super bad leak
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:01 AM   #440
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Yeah I looked at it a little more, and it looks like the back corner(by the vtec noid) is leaking a bit. WHEW!
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:07 AM   #441
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You gonna drive it to tifton this weekend?
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Old 02-05-2007, 11:46 AM   #442
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No, probably not. It shakes pretty bad at about 70mph, so I'm gonna get the tires balanced again.

If I can fix that and the oil leak, yeah, I might, but it'll be a stretch

Today I'll check my valve cover gasket and see if that'll fix the oil leaking problem.
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Old 02-05-2007, 03:58 PM   #443
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id say headgasket, i had to reseat mine and corrected the same leak. I went through 2 valve cover gaskets before i tried my headgasket. My old dseries was leak free after that.
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Old 02-05-2007, 04:07 PM   #444
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I'll check the torque on them today, as well as clean the valve cover seal.

I'm tired of driving around and people thinking my headgasket it blown!! lol...

I just called KMS and he says, "I'd be very suprised if it is leaking, I use a 3 step torquing process and Hondabond on bottom and top"(of the HG).
So I don't really think it's the headgasket.


This is where I feel some of the oil(most of it is on the back of the block, dripping onto the exhaust..



It really is hard to tell where it's coming from, because where it is, its coming down onto the axle, and it's spinning it all over the block, so damn near everything is wet!
<sigh> time to crawl under there one more time...
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Old 02-05-2007, 04:36 PM   #445
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Why don;t you get some paper towels and tape it around where you think the leak is..maybe put a lil cover or something over the axle so it's not slinging oil onto the towel.

can you just sit and idle and it'll leak, or is it something that needs vtec engaged to leak?


Thats what I'd do if I were me.. er you.
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Old 02-05-2007, 10:04 PM   #446
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I'm pretty sure I identified the leaking thing- the VTEC solenoid. It had a crack in it, but I didn't realize it was leaking this bad until I wiped everything down and started up the car, crawled under it(ebrake, jack stands, and jack... ), and found that it was leaking pretty bad!
So I changed that with one from the junkyard, as well as a new IACV from the junker to hopefully take care of my rough idling problems, as well as it nearly stalling when under load(clutch in, off throttle after high RPM)

We'll see tomorrow whether that is the only oil leak. I'm pretty sure it is.
The only reason I kinda ruled out the VC gasket was because I looked all around it, and didn't see ANY dribble spots, no oil-paths, no nothing.
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Old 02-06-2007, 12:21 AM   #447
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goodluck on finding it.. i had one, it was my distributor o-ring
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Old 02-06-2007, 01:55 AM   #448
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lol some people are funny... the headgasket would be the last thing I would suspect.
its 3 dollars for a little bottle of engine oil and dye and u can find a highwattage black light bulb and put it in an old school trouble light that takes bulbs.
10-15$ cost to diag, assuming you have a older trouble light, and comes in handy often as oil+seals+time=leaks!
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Old 02-06-2007, 07:39 AM   #449
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Bingo!

VTEC solenoid was the ticket!
And I also changed the IACV and that pretty much took care of the low/sparatic idle, and now it doesnt die when I rev it up and then let off.(putting it under load)!
Yet your right bro, I think theres a guy thats gonna tune it pretty soon, and I KNOW I need it... bad!
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Old 02-06-2007, 08:57 AM   #450
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cool andrew. enjoy it
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