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Old 02-14-2008, 12:48 PM   #1576
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Ok, I have a plan that is similar to what you had there: You mentioned some lessons learned, You got anything for me ?

I was going to make my fenders pin-on, so that I could get to the wiring harness under the fender. I was going to divide the harness into two: With lighting and transmission loom on the passenger side fender, intake controls and alternator on the driver's side.

What conclusions did you reach ?
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Old 02-14-2008, 06:27 PM   #1577
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Celerity, (get ready for broad statements directed mostly towards "new" mechanics) first off, take your time and make sure you feel comfortable with where the wires are routed before you secure it all down tight. Think about what your moving/removing and how it will affect your system (if it will).

Where I ran my wires through (seen below, where they are running through now) is the SunRoof drain escape. Thats why my carpet would get a little wet, because it wasn't draining outside the cabin. I'll figure something out in the next few days on where to get that tube out of the car. Just make sure of stuff like that. Know what your doing before you do it.

PM me with questions as you go. I've done this 3 times to my car and I'm sure I can help you with some roadblock you have. Plus I have tons of pics in my Photobucket you can look through that might help. write-up section of my PB

Oh, as far as the engine harness goes I did it something like this:



The headlight and AC wiring is the only stuff going through the fenders.
I'm not sure what you meant exactly, but hopefully that explains it.

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Honda-Tech.com: Appearance / Cosmetic: ♠ Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion ♠

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=================================== ================
On to my car:
=================================== ================
I finished the wiring. I'm happy with how it turned out. I did good. Next up will be the Drivers side(gonna re-do it and hide the Resister Box)
My mess:



After depinning all the connectors(take notes kids... ) I got it pulled through the fenderwell.




Then got it all straightened out.


Then stuffed it through the firewall.



Again strung it out.


Then pulled it through this hole and taped it all up.



Resister box and common ground mounted. with BLINGIN hardware.



Heres how she looks:


Starter wire and wiper motor wires.



Theres so much more I could do, but I'm chuggin along getting it Right. It might take me 10 tries, but I'll get it perfect dang it!

-Andrew
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:46 AM   #1578
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Bring Back The D!
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Old 02-15-2008, 07:00 AM   #1579
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D-series nitrous? I could do that. I'm getting a full nitrous kit tomorrow. (wet kit).

hmm...
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Old 02-15-2008, 02:30 PM   #1580
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Quote:
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D-series nitrous? I could do that. I'm getting a full nitrous kit tomorrow. (wet kit).

hmm...
KBoom is all i got to say

with your luck you still wont break 14's
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Old 02-15-2008, 03:15 PM   #1581
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It's so gay. It's cool though. I'll be getting another car soon.
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Old 02-15-2008, 10:19 PM   #1582
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Andrew, I'm picking up a bottle warmer next week
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Old 02-15-2008, 11:33 PM   #1583
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Cool beans, bro!
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Old 02-18-2008, 10:09 AM   #1584
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Got some more progress done, and some goodies, too.

Test fit my IC just for kicks. I actually think it would work! with only minor modifications to my front end.


Painted the front


Got my sun-roof drain going to the right place( namely OUTSIDE the car)



Put the fender back on


And did some more touchup paint on the bumper support and stuff.



Then I picked up my Civic and delivered it to my buddy. Traded him the civic shell for a complete Wet Kit (NOS) and $200. Needs a new fuel solenoid.





I'm thinking of dropping the D16 in with that new headgasket(making my Compression 10:1) and spraying it.

thoughts?
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:31 AM   #1585
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did i miss something? What the intercooler for?

Ohh and that D should be able to handle some nitrous. Just make sure you get it tuned for maximum HP. i can see it handling a 100 shot.

Big chris was running a 75 dry shot on his single cam and it held up for a long time
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:48 AM   #1586
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Does my little eye spy a purge solenoid?!
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:02 PM   #1587
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Abel I was just seeing if it would work. I'll hang on to it. Who knows, I might want to try some turbo Action sooner or later.

Terrance, Yeah, i think it is.
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:43 PM   #1588
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This video will make you happy in t3h pants... Bolt on B16 w/a 75 shot.

....SS CAMARO I/H/E CAM VS B16 CRX 75 SHOT

**eDIT** sTUPID DAMN INTERNETS (OR ME) links up later.. Wife locked keys in car :S

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Old 02-18-2008, 01:21 PM   #1589
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If you're having trouble with that IC I Have a johnny racer one that fits REALLY well. IT's not as deep, but it's longer. The mounts truly hide it under the bumper skin.

It's pretty trick. Lemme know if you're interested in a trade or something.
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Old 02-18-2008, 02:39 PM   #1590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mac_24_seven View Post
This video will make you happy in t3h pants... Bolt on B16 w/a 75 shot.
Honda Civic Nitrous

Here's one Cobalt blowing up...
Honda Civic Nitrous

A mustang popping...
Honda Civic Nitrous
Uhh...all those videos are the same thing...
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Old 02-18-2008, 04:57 PM   #1591
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Whaaaat ole B16 hangin with an SS... nice...

I'm thinking that when ENDYN starts selling their complete race heads I'll pick one up. Built head on stock rebuilt bottom end with spray. mmm...
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Old 02-19-2008, 09:52 PM   #1592
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Old 02-20-2008, 07:48 AM   #1593
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Please Andrew.... Don't....
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Old 02-20-2008, 08:05 AM   #1594
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Old 02-20-2008, 09:03 AM   #1595
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Quote:
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Whaaaat ole B16 hangin with an SS... nice...

I'm thinking that when ENDYN starts selling their complete race heads I'll pick one up. Built head on stock rebuilt bottom end with spray. mmm...
why? that would be more waste of money. The head you have now will work just fine. Alittle P&P and your good. Its how your bottom end is built that is the question. You didnt rebuild it. Theres no telling how many corners the last person might have taken.

I like endyn dont get me wrong. If i have another N/A motor i want it built through them. i just think your thinking overkill right now. Once again just spending money without a game plan as to why and what you want to achieve.

Damn dreaming youngsters
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Its fashion man. The chicks you see walking down the runway dont wear practical clothes, they were something that was designed to make a statement. THat statement in turns influences and shapes other peoples designs and ideas.

Same thing with cars. Except with no attractive women... and a lot more gayness.
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Old 02-20-2008, 01:36 PM   #1596
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I always do research before putting something in/on my car.
I do even more so when I'm about to buy something or know what it is I want to do.

ENDYN's heads come with completely revamped casting, port n polish, full valvetrain w/ oversized valves, and their version of the ITR cam. All for under $900. A fully built head BRAND new. You can't beat that. I think the head is a good investment. I can always put ANY bottom end on it I want. Like a built LS or a sleeved/bored B20 and make crazy power.

Since it's the toy, I don't see why it's a waste.

"I have a dream!..." lol
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Old 02-20-2008, 01:48 PM   #1597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew View Post
I always do research before putting something in/on my car.
I do even more so when I'm about to buy something or know what it is I want to do.

ENDYN's heads come with completely revamped casting, port n polish, full valvetrain w/ oversized valves, and their version of the ITR cam. All for under $900. A fully built head BRAND new. You can't beat that. I think the head is a good investment. I can always put ANY bottom end on it I want. Like a built LS or a sleeved/bored B20 and make crazy power.

Since it's the toy, I don't see why it's a waste.

"I have a dream!..." lol
too cheap. Were going to have to Calesta on this topic. It doesnt sound like anything special besides the casting. There's no f'in way someone will sell you a $900 vtec head with a full race spec p&p and high performance valvtrain. They're prolly selling the same spec head as an ITR type except its "NEW".
YOU try getting that deal with Dart. They charge that much just for the fraking head alone.
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Its fashion man. The chicks you see walking down the runway dont wear practical clothes, they were something that was designed to make a statement. THat statement in turns influences and shapes other peoples designs and ideas.

Same thing with cars. Except with no attractive women... and a lot more gayness.
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Old 02-20-2008, 02:13 PM   #1598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Endyn

As you can see in the picture above, we opted to make the heads LS/VTEC friendly by machining both sides for dowels, and tapping the deck VTEC oil hole. All of the appropriate plugs are also included. We also decided to produce a version of the head with open GSR quench-style combustion chambers, for increased compression and detonation resistance in specific performance applications.

In this picture you can see the GSR flat-quench head, as well as the more conventional B16-style chambered head in the back ground.

We've spent a full year developing the intake ports. Right now, we are in the process of making final updates to the ports for release on the final production head in a couple months. All conventional B16 manifolding will bolt on and align just like on OE heads.

On the exhaust-side, all conventional manifolding is a bolt-on. We've also attempted to make all of the ports more similar than in the factory offerings that have radically different porting for cylinders 1&4 vs. cylinders 2&3.
As can be seen, the vacuum casting technology used in production is absolutely first class, netting heads that are exceptionally clean with less shift and less flash than OE castings.


There heads, purchased bare, will come complete with cam caps, spray bars (and bolts), as well as all oil and rocker shaft plugs and crush washers. There will also be a complete head assembly option. The complete head will come with rocker shafts, VTEC rocker arms, 33x28mm intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, spring seats, keepers, retainers, lost motion assemblies (with larger tops and more travel than factory ITR units), and our version of 1998 ITR cam shafts. Exact pricing on the heads has yet to be determined, but the bare head should be available for less than $500.00, and the complete head for less than $900.00.....and that makes these the deal of the century. Individual head components such as rockers and LMA's will be available too. In addition to selling the heads, we will also be offering inexpensive Roller-Wave piston and rod kits for those looking to assemble killer LS/VTEC engines.
Good stuff I say!
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Old 02-20-2008, 04:00 PM   #1599
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W-T-F






I stand corrected.


still that doesnt make sense. Why machine and assemble a head only to sell it the same price as a stock b16 head? You can get a b16 head for around $400 complete.

IDK but if this is true i should jump on the deal as well. Even if i dont own a honda
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Its fashion man. The chicks you see walking down the runway dont wear practical clothes, they were something that was designed to make a statement. THat statement in turns influences and shapes other peoples designs and ideas.

Same thing with cars. Except with no attractive women... and a lot more gayness.
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Old 02-20-2008, 05:35 PM   #1600
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See!

... And you doubted me...
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