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Brads EJ1 Coupe

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i agree with mr 94civicturbo... everything should bolt right up.. hell id go as far as bolting up the whole subframe from the gsr... im pretty sure its a little more ridgid than the civic.....

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Old 09-14-2011, 09:13 PM   #76
 
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i agree with mr 94civicturbo... everything should bolt right up.. hell id go as far as bolting up the whole subframe from the gsr... im pretty sure its a little more ridgid than the civic..
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Old 09-15-2011, 12:49 AM   #77
 
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Originally Posted by 94civicturbo View Post
keep the a/c and p/s with the gsr!
No need for A/C here lol. I'd only use it for like 2-3 weeks of the summer.
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i agree with mr 94civicturbo... everything should bolt right up.. hell id go as far as bolting up the whole subframe from the gsr... im pretty sure its a little more ridgid than the civic..
I am using the GSR subframe , it's got a larger sway bar and a stabilizer bar running parallel to the steering rack.

I got the motor separated from the subframe then split the motor and trans. Everything is original! Never been touched. In fact every bolt has come out with the perfect "crack" like it had 10,000 miles on it.

The only unfortunate part is that the oil pan is missing 2 bolts. lol and the clutch is wrecked.

Parts list:
-Timing belt/WP/Tensioner
-Clutch kit w/stock Flywheel
-Bottom end gaskets
-Cam seal

Here is the "bitch pin" remover my dad made on the bench grinder out of a head bolt. Works wonders!









Original 194,000 mile clutch. eg6sir called it.



A chunk broke off not allowing the clutch to fully engage. That spring is loose as hell in there.




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Last edited by GlassHeadlights; 09-15-2011 at 12:52 AM.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:15 PM   #78
 
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Coming along pretty good. You better get to work before your Canadian Fall weather shows up.

Is the sub-frame okay from the wreck? I guess you'll know when you bolt it up.

In terms of the clutch install, you probably know already but just make sure you lube up the correct spots before you install the new throw out bearing (that's what she likes to say). On my B16 install, I didn't lube behind the fork and I had a squeaking whistle unless I had slight pressure on the pedal. I think it was that ball that the fork pivots on and I never cleaned/lubed it. I switched slaves and nothing. If I barley touched the fork through the rubber boot....it stopped. Just food for thought. And, IMO.....OEM Throw Out Bearing FTW b/c taking the transmission out and back in is never a fun afternoon.
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Last edited by CAFROG; 09-16-2011 at 09:17 PM. Reason: rubber.....not runner
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:52 AM   #79
 
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Clutch looks real good there Brad - prolly good for another 30-40k miles with your 8000 RPM launches.......

I'm guessing you're going to put a Stage 1 pressure plate in it - and face flywheel? While turning flywheel they can lighten it up a little. I had the one on my hatch taken down to 12lbs. Then, balance flywheel and pressure plate assy. 12lbs still runs real nice and isn't noticeable when shifting.

Last edited by Dual-500; 09-16-2011 at 12:55 AM.
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:16 AM   #80
 
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CAFROG: Yeah the subframe looks aiet. I never thought of lubing up the pivot point, thanks!

Dual-500: Lol it couldn't have taken another day of me.

I'm most likely going with an Exedy Stage 1 racing clutch kit. It handles 250 lbs of torque and comes with everything I need. And yep, I'll get that flywheel resurfaced. I'll inquire about lightening it up, can't hurt right!
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:27 AM   #81
 
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ALWAYS lube up your pivot point or that bitch will be squealing like a pig!

Last edited by double0Si; 09-16-2011 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 09-16-2011, 01:40 AM   #82
 
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Originally Posted by GlassHeadlights View Post
CAFROG: Yeah the subframe looks aiet. I never thought of lubing up the pivot point, thanks!

Dual-500: Lol it couldn't have taken another day of me.

I'm most likely going with an Exedy Stage 1 racing clutch kit. It handles 250 lbs of torque and comes with everything I need. And yep, I'll get that flywheel resurfaced. I'll inquire about lightening it up, can't hurt right!
Don't forget to ask them to balance it along with the new pressure plate.

I don't remember which one is in the hatch, but it's rated to handle up to 250hp - it's sweet. Takes more pressure on the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch - hooks up real nice.

You'll like a lighter flywheel.
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:45 PM   #83
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The right way to have it balanced would be to take them the complete rotating assembly and have them balance it. It does make a noticeable difference in the engine at higher RPM's, and I'm sure longevity as well.
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Old 09-16-2011, 09:22 PM   #84
 
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CAFROG: I never thought of lubing up the pivot point, thanks!
She said to lube the shaft a little too. It makes entering her crank shaft a little easier

And don't forget to give the throw out bearing a rim job of grease. But don't use too much cuz sloppy isn't always the best experience

But seriously.....the Helm manual for the motor shows the spots to lube.

Just don't use that much b/c, under revs, it can fling around the housing and get on the clutch....flywheel....pressure plate....blah blah blah.
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:38 PM   #85
 
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Thanks for imput guys, I plan to follow those tactics.

I sense an update...
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:57 PM   #86
 
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Thanks for input guys.






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Old 09-22-2011, 01:42 PM   #87
 
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^ Agreed - PFG
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:57 PM   #88
 
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lol I can't win here!

I got the rear discs and sway bar in the Civic. Night and day with the sway bar! The car now corners a lot more flat and stable and instant turn in is greatly improved. The rear discs are working really well in there too, it's a whole new car and a lot more fun to drive.






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..we generally don't take each other too seriously here.
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Old 09-22-2011, 11:23 PM   #89
 
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Nice. Need to get some polyurethane bushings in that sucker.

One of these days mine will get some rear discs.

Last edited by Dual-500; 09-22-2011 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:58 AM   #90
 
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I can agree with a poly kit, that and a JDM ITR 23mm rear sway bar at the same time.

I'm getting excited to build this car up! It's going to be a mini Integra that will outperform. lol

I plan on some motor prepping soon.
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:02 AM   #91
 
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Shoulda cleaned it up and sprayed it while you had it out, but, Im sure you were antsy to get back out there. Nice work.
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:09 AM   #92
 
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oh, if i know brad, a full undercarriage power wash is in order...lol
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Old 09-23-2011, 10:11 AM   #93
 
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and dude, of you like the way the car is now, wait till you get the poly kit. night and DAY difference in my dc... just alot more road noise, if you can live with it... HOLY CRAP, ITS AWESOME!!!! lol
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:23 PM   #94
 
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and dude, of you like the way the car is now, wait till you get the poly kit. night and DAY difference in my dc... just alot more road noise, if you can live with it... HOLY CRAP, ITS AWESOME!!!! lol
I never noticed increased road noise in mine - testimony to how loud it is inside anyway! That's a good point.

I did notice the tightened up handling - I agree completely - it's awesome! A significant improvement for sure and well worth the time and investment.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:47 PM   #95
 
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This car has a loonnngg way to go handling wise. I'm really in favour for a sharp handling car, I can deal with a rough ride. (No gay joke plz n thx)
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:36 PM   #96
 
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Why is the mjotor not in yet??? Hell with rear brakes and rear sway. Get that thing peppy first!!! Cut some dead coils and drop it like it hot! j/k
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:45 PM   #97
 
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how is that wretched abortion of an exhaust working out?
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:20 PM   #98
 
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Originally Posted by CAFROG View Post
Why is the mjotor not in yet??? Hell with rear brakes and rear sway. Get that thing peppy first!!! Cut some dead coils and drop it like it hot! j/k
Ahah nothin wrong with cut coils! I`m going to try it cause I have 2 sets now.
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how is that wretched abortion of an exhaust working out?
Meh, just fine. It`s quieter than open header at least.
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:47 PM   #99
 
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There most definetly IS something wrong with cutting coils. Springs are so cheap for Hondas too. Theres no reason to half ass it.
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Old 09-23-2011, 03:59 PM   #100
 
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Ebay springs are cheap but way too bouncy with stock shocks. I need to save for coilovers ...
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