Mac's 94 DB8 project thread AKA: Project Aeris.. ITR stuff, body work.. ect

[klyph]

O, you didnt show the drain line in your sketch. It will be fine that way.

[Andrew]

The valve cover should go to a vented can. All by itself, 1 or two lines(depending on how many VC vents you have).

The crank case has 1 line factory(black box), and 1 line they added the Prelude nipple to. (the "Passenger Side Crankcase Adapter" in your pic) going to a non-vented can.

Thats pretty much all I know about it. I don't know'havent heard anything about a tube going down into it, but w/e. it all works.
Theres so many ways to connect it, it probably doesnt even matter. I'm just going by what I've seen in Endyne's engine dyno pics.




Original page

[hazzardboy95]

That i/m is huge, and carbon fiber. WOW.

[mac_24_seven]

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My catch can is 99% complete. I need to drill one more fitting in the bottom for a drain and I'm good to go =)

In the meantime, I bought some gasket maker and sealed the hose barbs so they won't leak. Here are a couple of pictarZ.






Enj0y!

[Andrew]

[mac_24_seven]

DIY: Custom Catch Can install

Tools needed:
Your custom catch can
An assortment of hose barbs
several feet of hose
pliers
3/8 Brass hose barb, male on both end.

***Note: You don't have to go in this order.. It's just how I did it.

Step 1: Open da hood

Step 2: Remove your strut bar/Intake piping. Pretty simple.

Step 3: Remove the PCV valve so you can remove the hose connecting it to the IM. Took me a good 20 mins to get it. Hardest part of the whole damn thing. It's the lil brown things near the bottom that is sticking up and has the hose connected to it.


Step 4: Connect the hose running from the IM to the hose thats going to be running to the catch can, via the brass hose barb. Leave the hose long so you can cut it to the correct length later on. Also, add hose from the PCV valve so it will run to the catch can.

Step 5: Move out from the hood and get your can.


Step 6: Stuff the can with your filter material... In this case, panty hose :P I think Eli's imagining him wearing them. So you know, they are NEW.


Step 7: Make sure they are breatheable......... No comment...


Step 8: Install the can where you want it and cut the hose to length. Using the clear hose, as I did, I found out some scissors are the best way to cut it.


Step 9: Install the can and hook up your hoses! This is the simplest catch can design.. Simply a hose running from the PCV to the can, then one running OUT of the can into the IM.





Danger!!!! Where I was going to originally mount my can, I neded to remove some hoses from the charcoal canister.. Unfortunately, the nipples on it break pretty easily =(



I simply put a screw in the hose and the broken nipple and smeared some gasket maker around it. Good as new =)


And there you have it. My installed catch can. Notice I ditched my previous can, since this one was much more compact and will function the same.

[mac_24_seven]

DIY: City lights

Tools needed:
File
(2) 194 sockets and bulbs
Extra wire
Connectors/black tape

** Note** I used these in replacement of my high beams. I had a bulb out and was too cheap to buy another high beam bulb, so instead of drilling a hole I just replaced the highbeams with the 194 socket/bulb.

Step 1: Pop your hood and ready yourself to being one step closer to ultimate JDM :P

Step 2: Remove your high beam bulb and get your socket/file and file it down. The socket has lil ears on it so when you turn it, it locks into place. Obviously the high beams are different, so you can't do that. BUT, you CAN file the ears down so when you stick the socket in the housing, it fits snug. After you've done this, get ready for some wiring.


Step 3: Remove your turn signals/bulb sockets. It's just one screw really easy.

Step 4: Extend the wires/wire the plug into the turn signals. Extend the wire from the new 194 sockets. Then wire the POSITIVE wire coming from the 194 socket to the GREEN/BLACK wire coming from the194 turn signal. Obviously, wire the negative to the black wire (ground). I used the lil thingy's (don't know the name) to put all 3 wires in, then crimp them together.


***Warning*** Don't do what I did. See anything wrong with the below picture?

When I extended the wire, I was using terminals. I used 2 female terminals instead of a male/female :P What a n00b.

Step 5: Test to see if everything is wires correctly (turn on ligths/turn signals) run your new socket to the headlight housing and stick it in there. Re-install the sockets into your turn signals and enjoy your new city lights.
A pic of how thw wiring should end up.


Finished product.

[mac_24_seven]

And I havn't updated in a while.. so here's what happening.


I"ve bought a new house and have moved in (still unpacking). And my GT3s will be here Saturday (unless fedez tracking is lieing to me)
I bought a skunk 2 front camber and a rear camber kit, which will be going on this weekend.

A new DIY for them will be coming.

Check the link in my sig to the mainproject thread on Honda-Tech.

[mac_24_seven]

Finally... It's time!!!

Yess...


Yessssss... Yesss.....


OHhh yeahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!


Look at those white legs!!


I'm a smartE white boy.. I learned from my 6 hour wheel swapping fiasco: Always check the tires to make sure which direction they rotate!!!


A lil tip to keep from scratching your wheels.. Wrap tape around the socket.


All done!!



Now for the pics... I tried to be artsy in some of em.. But I suck =(

















I'll take a couple for comparison at lunch today in my normal lil spot =)

You like?

[Andrew]

Looks dope mang

xInfinity

[mac_24_seven]

You've gotta come down this weekend so we can roll around and make fun of rednecks. Maybe even smoke a couple domestic lovin' inbreds

[89crxzc]

dr-16's ftw, nice build. love slammed 4 door tegs

[mac_24_seven]

Note: If there are any changes that need to be made to this DIY, please let me know. Also, if there is any extra information that need to be added, I'll add it.

DIY: Manual oil pressure gauge install

Tools needed:
Any manual oil pressure gauge
Crescent wrench
3/8 wrench
1/8 BSP TO 1/8 NPT fitting
Teflon tape
22 mm deep well socket for the plug in the block.

Note: I deleted the factory oil pressure fitting in this for lack of fittings. This means the oil pressure light will not work.
Also, I did this during my IM swap. I can't imagine how hard it would be without the IM off. This thread is written assuming the IM is indeed off.

Step 1: Pop your hood and get ready

Step 2: Teflon tape the threads and assemble the oil line into the fitting. Here's what you want to end up with:

Note: The assembly pictures are obviously of me hooking the line into the gauge, but the procedure is the same for the fitting into the block. I also didn't use teflon tape on this because I forgot :P I'ma n00b.
Here's what your working with:

Assemble like so:

And then screw em together nice and snug! Note: PUsh the oil line as far as it will go into the gauge and hold pressure on it while you tighten the nut down.


Step 3: Remove the oil fitting from the block/screw the BSP fitting into the block. This was a pain in the A$$, big time.. But you can do it =) Have faith Be sure to snug it up nicely. Leaks are t3h bad.. Mhhhhnnnnmmmmm kaaayyy?
Here is the plug you want to remove. It's black with the lil white nipple on it:

And here it is with the oil line installed.


Step 4: Run your oil line through the firewall into the cabin to wherever your going to mount it. There should be plenty of line to snake it around things to hide it. Reference Step 2 for the procedure on hooking the gauge to the line

Step 5: Double check to make evrything is nice and snug and fire her up! Check for leaks, please.... In case you don't know, oil leaks are bad for your engine :S
I have 70-80 lbs lbs of pressure on start up and cruise over 40 lbs once she's warm =)

And there you have it. You have your very own oil pressure gauge. ANd, so you know, my dads been building cars since he was a teenage and has never had a line break on him.. Nor have I known one to break nor have I ever had one break. If you don't pinch the line, you'll be fine.

[SunShine00]

Tight build , props for that, but have you had it on the dyno yet, or have you run the 1/4 mile with it ?

[mac_24_seven]

Well, at the moment it's torn down... ITR cams and tuning will be happening this weekend.

Prior to the blox IM and cams.. I made 146/114 and ran a traction limited 15.5 @ 91.6 mph.

The above #'s are with a blown headgasket.


I'm shooting for 170's/mid to high 120's and w/drag radials... 14.5-14.8. I think w/radials I could have knocked on 14's with the HG blown... But we'll see.

If money goes ok, I'll have it dynoe'd by the first of next week and get her to the track sometime next month

My thread on Honda-Tech is the one I update.. Check it out for details and whatnot.

[SunShine00]

sounds good, look forward to hearing about it