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Citizen_Insane · 04-15-2007, 08:51 PM

Found this link on crxcommunity.com:

$50 Paint Job

Obviously, I haven't tried it, but it seems like a good technique (worked for this guy). I'll probably try this out later this summer when I paint the CRX and fix the rust spots.

asmallsol · 04-16-2007, 10:39 AM

I have heard of similar paint jobs turning out real nice. It just takes a decent amount of sanding after you paint. I am pretty sure that pissedoffsol did the same kind of paint job to his neon that he built last year and was really surprised with the results. From the pics that I have seen of first time painters, it looks like the results faired much better then my virgin experience with a spray gun.

eg6sir · 04-16-2007, 10:40 AM

hmmm... makes me think i should do mine.. i have no rust to fix, woot!!

allbottledup · 04-16-2007, 01:13 PM

those pictures came out awesome...its funny a guy at my job painted one of our older trucks with it....didnt do any body work at all to it and it came out damn nice. All he did was roll on the Rustoleum.

civic accord honda · 04-19-2007, 07:13 AM

i am think about doing this cuz my car is just cheep walmart rattel can primer

Matts96HB · 05-06-2007, 04:42 PM

Hmm.. might try it on my EK, depending on the funding situation. Wonder how it does with plastic?

SneakySedan · 05-07-2007, 05:56 PM

Did this paint job in my front yard with .99 generic home depot rattle can. Maybe $20 in paint, $10 in wetsand, and $5 on compound, and a lot of time out in the yard sanding, polishinging, sanding some more.

Oh yea, its the first car I've ever painted, so dont expect too much, just consider that its a $35 paint job at most.

Citizen_Insane · 05-08-2007, 02:16 PM

Nice dude, got any more shots of the paint?

SneakySedan · 05-08-2007, 06:26 PM

Here's the day I bought it.

After replacing the sheet of plexi-glass (notice the shiny piece covering the sunroof hole in the previous picture) with sheetmetal and priming the car (with $4 in flat black)

Here's about midway through the whole painting process. All the upper body was sprayed, sanded and buffed. I had just decided to paint the entire body black so I had only sprayed the lower half, no sanding or anything. Also put on a header panel that was given to me by a fellow 1G owner and a good friend of mine.

(sorry its a small picture, my larger one is on another computer).

And one more of the finished job. I have a LOT more, can send them if anybody is interested and wants to know my full step my step.

(it was a cloudy day, those are clouds and not paint swirls on the hood)

P.S. I AM STILL IN SEARCH OF THE HEADLIGHT SHROUDS FOR THIS CAR (84-85 CRX only had them). If you have a pair or know someone who has a pair, let me know.

TurboMirage · 05-08-2007, 07:53 PM

Red Pepper Racing ---- get your shrouds there

SneakySedan · 05-08-2007, 08:19 PM

I'm on RedPepper as 85beater, since I got the car, lol. Still searching for the shrouds....

neonmike · 05-08-2007, 09:26 PM

wow man that is damn impressive for a rattle can job.

TurboMirage · 05-08-2007, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SneakySedan

I'm on RedPepper as 85beater, since I got the car, lol. Still searching for the shrouds....

wow...

im redrexdx

havent posted there in years though.

Celerity · 05-09-2007, 09:44 AM

The key here is not the paint. It's the sanding. You can coat a car with anything, and if you sand it to this guy's efforts, you'll do fine.

These paints aren't made to withstand sun light and chemical rains. Airjockie has a great rattle can job on his CRX, and it requires yearly maintenance from sun damage.

A good 2 or stage paint costs more, but it will last. Also, not priming metal (Even if it's a good bonding paint like what's described) is a bad idea. The paint sticks.. for now.

Then it slides right off the moment the oils seperate.

SneakySedan · 05-09-2007, 05:13 PM

Yea, my car sat in the sun for the past 3 months and its definitely not as shiny as those pictures anymore (but again, to be expected with how cheap the paint was). However, seeing as I have plenty of wetsand and compound left I could do a touch up job for probably $10.

But +1 to the sanding/buffing. Take your time, dont get in a hurry, and be consistant. My biggest thing was getting rushed by the end of the job, so the first few attempts this paint job created awesome fendershine but a really crappy hatch paint job.

SHOGUNOVDDRK · 05-10-2007, 06:35 AM

your 1st gen looks the shit bro.....nice paint and even if the swirls werent from the clouds id still rock it....

Citizen_Insane · 05-21-2007, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Celerity

The key here is not the paint. It's the sanding. You can coat a car with anything, and if you sand it to this guy's efforts, you'll do fine.

These paints aren't made to withstand sun light and chemical rains. Airjockie has a great rattle can job on his CRX, and it requires yearly maintenance from sun damage.

A good 2 or stage paint costs more, but it will last. Also, not priming metal (Even if it's a good bonding paint like what's described) is a bad idea. The paint sticks.. for now.

Then it slides right off the moment the oils seperate.

If you read the link, the guy says he's had this paint on his beatle for over 6 years and hasn't had to do any maintanence on it yet. No bubbles, no sepparation, its not as shiny as it could be, but then again, its a cheap paintjob. I think there's a pic of it with his charger on there too to show that it hasn't faded either. I know it doesn't produce a show quality paint job, but if it lasts for more than 5 years, I'd be happy, I probably won't have the same CRX for more than 5 years anyway.

delsoul · 05-25-2007, 03:56 AM

Something I have not seen any mention on, referring to rattle can paints, and thats the cure time they have. It can take days for a lot of them to actually cure. Not dry.. but cure. Theres a huge difference.

Anyone thats gone this route will know, if you have a blemish that will require touching up, you will have to wait.. and wait.. and wait.. and WAIT. These paints will remain soft for quite awhile.

Use of a rattle can primer is a nightmare for anyone thats excited to see results, and are impatient in any way. Even these primers will take forever to dry enough to just sand smooth for a coat of color.. (of course, theres exceptions to everything, this is my exp speaking)

Another thing is, rattle can primer is sooooo stinking thin, you cant use it as a filler at all. There are a few thick ones, but there again.. youll be waiting hours to sand one coat down, to apply the next.. verses an automotive grade mix primer, spray on, sand in 10-15 mins usually, spray another coat.

Aside from that, the most important thing for anyone to understand, that has intentions of taking on a project as serious as painting their car is, your paint will only be as smooth as the surface you spray (or roll :P ) it on. I dont know how many people I have seen over the years prep and prep their car's body, only to spray on primer, and go directly into color.. without even scuffing the primer. SAND THE PRIMED SURFACE SMOOTH! otherwise, your paint... no matter how you apply it, will be rough and dull.

Heres a civic I been working on.. though, I use the traditional Base coat/Clear coat.
Index of /img/98-civic-hb

Just figured my 2 cents might save someone out there some trouble.

fsboddi · 09-27-2007, 03:36 PM

Yes, I read the $50 Paint job page

and I also saw a GREAT and THOUGHTFUL retort at

Easy How To Paint A Car PRO Your Self | Free Help Info
called

The $50 Paint Job Myth at
$50 Fifty Dollar Buck Paint Job Myth How To Paint A Car | Free Details and Instructions

If its too good to be true, it usually isn't

I like this guys site a lot and got his online video- it was really easy to understand, and he uses a HONDA civic hatchback to demonstrate.

Nice work there

04-15-2007, 08:51 PM	#1
Citizen_Insane Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 3,698 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 49	$50 Paint Job Found this link on crxcommunity.com: $50 Paint Job Obviously, I haven't tried it, but it seems like a good technique (worked for this guy). I'll probably try this out later this summer when I paint the CRX and fix the rust spots. __________________ No tech questions through PM please! B16 CRX....you will be missed

04-16-2007, 10:39 AM	#2
asmallsol Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Houghton/Livonia Michigan Age: 22 Posts: 8,093 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 93 del Sol Gas sipper Rep Power: 95	I have heard of similar paint jobs turning out real nice. It just takes a decent amount of sanding after you paint. I am pretty sure that pissedoffsol did the same kind of paint job to his neon that he built last year and was really surprised with the results. From the pics that I have seen of first time painters, it looks like the results faired much better then my virgin experience with a spray gun. __________________ Collin Material Science and Engineering Michigan Technological University

04-16-2007, 01:13 PM	#4
allbottledup Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Egg Harbor City NJ Age: 27 Posts: 1,533 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 95 Honda Civic EX Rep Power: 25	those pictures came out awesome...its funny a guy at my job painted one of our older trucks with it....didnt do any body work at all to it and it came out damn nice. All he did was roll on the Rustoleum. __________________ http://www.myspace.com/allbottledup email allbottledup@hotmail.com or Russelchiacchia@comcast.net

05-06-2007, 04:42 PM	#6
Matts96HB F.I. Junkie Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Spokane, WA Age: 18 Posts: 1,860 iTrader: 1 / 100% Rep Power: 80	Hmm.. might try it on my EK, depending on the funding situation. Wonder how it does with plastic? __________________ Forced Induction is the way to go. [[330whp EJ6]]

05-07-2007, 05:56 PM	#7
SneakySedan Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 79 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 9	Did this paint job in my front yard with .99 generic home depot rattle can. Maybe $20 in paint, $10 in wetsand, and $5 on compound, and a lot of time out in the yard sanding, polishinging, sanding some more. Oh yea, its the first car I've ever painted, so dont expect too much, just consider that its a $35 paint job at most. __________________ 1985 CRX - Carb'd - Best MPG 52.5 - Si's Beat off the Line 3 1985 Toyota Celica Supra - 5M-GE - 5spd - Rear Drive w/ LSD


Welcome, Guest! Please Register or Login: User Name Password Members have access to more features, better search, and see fewer ads! It's free, what are you waiting for?

05-08-2007, 02:16 PM	#8
Citizen_Insane Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 3,698 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 49	Nice dude, got any more shots of the paint? __________________ No tech questions through PM please! B16 CRX....you will be missed

05-08-2007, 06:26 PM	#9
SneakySedan Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 79 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 9	Here's the day I bought it. After replacing the sheet of plexi-glass (notice the shiny piece covering the sunroof hole in the previous picture) with sheetmetal and priming the car (with $4 in flat black) Here's about midway through the whole painting process. All the upper body was sprayed, sanded and buffed. I had just decided to paint the entire body black so I had only sprayed the lower half, no sanding or anything. Also put on a header panel that was given to me by a fellow 1G owner and a good friend of mine. (sorry its a small picture, my larger one is on another computer). And one more of the finished job. I have a LOT more, can send them if anybody is interested and wants to know my full step my step. (it was a cloudy day, those are clouds and not paint swirls on the hood) P.S. I AM STILL IN SEARCH OF THE HEADLIGHT SHROUDS FOR THIS CAR (84-85 CRX only had them). If you have a pair or know someone who has a pair, let me know. __________________ 1985 CRX - Carb'd - Best MPG 52.5 - Si's Beat off the Line 3 1985 Toyota Celica Supra - 5M-GE - 5spd - Rear Drive w/ LSD Last edited by SneakySedan; 05-09-2007 at 05:15 PM.

05-08-2007, 07:53 PM	#10
TurboMirage Running on two cylinders Join Date: May 2003 Location: Southbridge, MA Age: 25 Posts: 16,394 iTrader: 1 / 100% Ride: 2000 Mitsubishi Lancer RPW E5 Coupe Rep Power: 243	Red Pepper Racing ---- get your shrouds there __________________ Home of the RPW built 2000 Lancer CC Coupe. See what is done to the Little EVO5

05-08-2007, 08:19 PM	#11
SneakySedan Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 79 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 9	I'm on RedPepper as 85beater, since I got the car, lol. Still searching for the shrouds.... __________________ 1985 CRX - Carb'd - Best MPG 52.5 - Si's Beat off the Line 3 1985 Toyota Celica Supra - 5M-GE - 5spd - Rear Drive w/ LSD

05-08-2007, 09:26 PM	#12
neonmike Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Posts: 570 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 32	wow man that is damn impressive for a rattle can job.

05-09-2007, 05:13 PM	#15
SneakySedan Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Central NC Posts: 79 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 9	Yea, my car sat in the sun for the past 3 months and its definitely not as shiny as those pictures anymore (but again, to be expected with how cheap the paint was). However, seeing as I have plenty of wetsand and compound left I could do a touch up job for probably $10. But +1 to the sanding/buffing. Take your time, dont get in a hurry, and be consistant. My biggest thing was getting rushed by the end of the job, so the first few attempts this paint job created awesome fendershine but a really crappy hatch paint job. __________________ 1985 CRX - Carb'd - Best MPG 52.5 - Si's Beat off the Line 3 1985 Toyota Celica Supra - 5M-GE - 5spd - Rear Drive w/ LSD

05-25-2007, 03:56 AM	#18
delsoul honda hooker Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Eugene, OR Age: 34 Posts: 14 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 96 Tahoe (parts runner) Rep Power: 0	Something I have not seen any mention on, referring to rattle can paints, and thats the cure time they have. It can take days for a lot of them to actually cure. Not dry.. but cure. Theres a huge difference. Anyone thats gone this route will know, if you have a blemish that will require touching up, you will have to wait.. and wait.. and wait.. and WAIT. These paints will remain soft for quite awhile. Use of a rattle can primer is a nightmare for anyone thats excited to see results, and are impatient in any way. Even these primers will take forever to dry enough to just sand smooth for a coat of color.. (of course, theres exceptions to everything, this is my exp speaking) Another thing is, rattle can primer is sooooo stinking thin, you cant use it as a filler at all. There are a few thick ones, but there again.. youll be waiting hours to sand one coat down, to apply the next.. verses an automotive grade mix primer, spray on, sand in 10-15 mins usually, spray another coat. Aside from that, the most important thing for anyone to understand, that has intentions of taking on a project as serious as painting their car is, your paint will only be as smooth as the surface you spray (or roll :P ) it on. I dont know how many people I have seen over the years prep and prep their car's body, only to spray on primer, and go directly into color.. without even scuffing the primer. SAND THE PRIMED SURFACE SMOOTH! otherwise, your paint... no matter how you apply it, will be rough and dull. Heres a civic I been working on.. though, I use the traditional Base coat/Clear coat. Index of /img/98-civic-hb Just figured my 2 cents might save someone out there some trouble. Last edited by delsoul; 05-25-2007 at 04:01 AM. Reason: :oops: forgot my hatch url

09-27-2007, 03:36 PM	#19
fsboddi Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 2 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 0	Yes, I read the $50 Paint job page and I also saw a GREAT and THOUGHTFUL retort at Easy How To Paint A Car PRO Your Self \| Free Help Info called The $50 Paint Job Myth at $50 Fifty Dollar Buck Paint Job Myth How To Paint A Car \| Free Details and Instructions If its too good to be true, it usually isn't I like this guys site a lot and got his online video- it was really easy to understand, and he uses a HONDA civic hatchback to demonstrate. Nice work there

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