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#1 |
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d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 726
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 Honda Civic Si
Rep Power: 22
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Ok guys, so I have started a wire tuck on my EF and it is definately a work in progress. So far I have tucked the; headlights, horn, washer fluid resevoir tank connector, markers, indicators, wiper motor, engine bay fuse box (now on the inside of the cabin), and obviously the multi-ground behind the fender with a nice, clean connection; with di-electric grease. I am now done both sides
. I have; soldered, heat-shrunk, and electrical taped all connections. I am now wondering what I should do with the engine harness connectors, do you guys have any bright ideas to help me out? I was also thinking of tucking my engine ground on the valve cover by drilling and tapping a hole in the valve cover and connecting the ground wire to the rear of the engine compartment chassis, is this an ok idea as long as I use silicone to secure the hole? If it matters I have the world famous D16a6/D16y8 "mini-me" combo (lmao, just kidding on the world famous part). Any help is GREATLY appreciated, thanks!If any pictures are wanted or needed, please let me know. I have decided against a wire tuck write-up because I felt it was more than covered and the other people could probably do a better job explaining it. As well, I did not really follow a tuck write-up, rather I decided to look at a few pictures and start pulling out the solder iron, solder, heat shrink and electrical tape; it seemed pretty straight forward. Last edited by 89' Project Civic; 07-06-2009 at 02:14 AM. Reason: grammatical error |
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#2 |
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¿GANGSTA GREMLIN?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT(860) VT(802)
Age: 21
Posts: 7,739
iTrader: 5 / 100%
Ride: 91 CRX si
Rep Power: 214
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there should be a threaded hole on the back of the valvecover to run a ground from..if not try taking the ground off and starting the car(i ran my d16z6 with no ground on the vc)
also as for engine bay tucking..just put the fuse box in the cabin and extend the wires for the starter and wiper motor..its not that ard..i did it on my old crx __________________
R.I.P BEN LEE2/24/08 we love and miss you http://burnoutbox.activeboard.com/in...BID=127652&p=1 GOOD FAST CHEAP, you can pick only two. fast and cheap isn't good good and cheap isn't fast good and fast isn't cheap |
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#3 |
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d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 726
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 Honda Civic Si
Rep Power: 22
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Thank you, I will check the VC for that mounting hole. I tucked the headlights ect behine the fender, but is there any possible way that I could tuck the engine harness side so noone can see it? I am trying to be really creative.
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#4 |
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¿GANGSTA GREMLIN?
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT(860) VT(802)
Age: 21
Posts: 7,739
iTrader: 5 / 100%
Ride: 91 CRX si
Rep Power: 214
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yea where it comes through the firewall on the passengers side just push it all back through there
__________________
R.I.P BEN LEE2/24/08 we love and miss you http://burnoutbox.activeboard.com/in...BID=127652&p=1 GOOD FAST CHEAP, you can pick only two. fast and cheap isn't good good and cheap isn't fast good and fast isn't cheap |
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#5 |
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d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 726
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 Honda Civic Si
Rep Power: 22
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Hey guys, great news!, the wire tuck was successful for the lights and whatever else I could test worked. So far so good
. I am enjoying this progress. I have decided that I would just leave the engine harness wires the way they are. |
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#6 |
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SOHC VTEC at its best
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: South Mississippi
Age: 25
Posts: 265
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 95 Civic EX Coupe
Rep Power: 6
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upload some pics so we can see them.
__________________
95 Civic EX Coupe: GSR suspension rear LCAs & tie bar no PS or A/C Turbonetics t3/t4B (ceramic ball bearing) Super V Trim, Stg 2 .48 A/R Xenocron chipped ecu Greddy Type RS bov Tial 38mm WG GOAUTOWORKS cast mani, 3" DP, WG dump, & oil lines Spearco Intercooler 450cc DSM blue tops walbro 255 HG and ARP studs Aluminum rad/fan combo from GoAutoworks Competition Clutch Stg5 w/4puck disk BF Goodrich Drag Radials Soon to have: 15" Rota Slipstreams tune by Darren in Baton Rouge, LA |
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#9 | |
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yep....mmhhm.......yep...
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: flower mound TX
Age: 27
Posts: 996
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 92 PRELUDE SI
Rep Power: 83
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i would love to do a wire tuck on my 92 prelude. i wonder how hard and time consuming that will be?
__________________
Hugh.......I like money....... "idiocracey" Quote:
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#10 |
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d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 726
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 Honda Civic Si
Rep Power: 22
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From what I hear, there are all different types of doing a wire tuck. The very first step to starting this project it to mark ALL wires. This one in particular took me 2-3days of solid work to get it done right. I just tucked the headlight, horn, multi-ground, radiator fan relay and wires, and side markers. Just as a suggestion though, this wiring tuck required about 5-6 feet of heat shrink and with my calculation it would have cost me $14.06 at 2.49(plus tax) per package (at 5 feet); $16.95(incl. tax), at 6 feet of heat shrink from my local Canadian Tire store. I bought 2x(5 foot) pieces of heat shrink tube for $5 from an electrical store, that I just cut to size. As well, on a side note, but very important, as a suggestion do not cut all wires from the passenger side grommet then re-solder them; rather, just cut the wires to be tucked. I did this because I was going to try to hide the engine harness connectors as well, but decided against that idea so now I am stuck with re-soldering the joints for absolutely no reason. Here is a list of supplies and tools needed:
-Soldering Iron -Soldering wire and Flux -5-6 feet of 1/8" heatshrink (for both the 18 and 20 guage wire) *it will only work on 18 guage if you slide the wires together rather than "pigtailing" them together* -1 foot of 3/8 heatshrink (for thicker 20 guage wire) -scissors (for cutting the heat shrink into the size you need) -wire strippers -electrical tape -wire loom (for protection), and -16 guage, thickest wire used, (it is used on 1 wire to extend the heater wire); 18 guage ,just a bit larger, than 20 guage, (it is used for the headlights, horn, rad fan relay wires, multi-ground, and extension); and 20 guage wire (this is thinner wire for your multi-ground wire, side markers, and extension pieces) Last edited by 89' Project Civic; 07-14-2009 at 11:06 AM. Reason: forgot some information |
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#13 |
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d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: St. Catharines, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 726
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1990 Honda Civic Si
Rep Power: 22
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Actually my car is in complete pieces, it looks like a bomb hit it and blew it to smitherines. I am working on getting it all back together with clean or new OEM parts. I have officially stopped buying performance parts for right now. I have overdone the performance part sector of this car and I need to reverse back to OEM a.s.a.p. Thanks for asking though, but if I did not have the ground on the valve cover to the chassis I know 100% it would not run at all. I believe it is the most important ground on the car!
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