Go Back   HondaSwap Forums > Appearance and Accessories > Body / Exterior / Interior / Cosmetics
Facebook Twitter

Honda Rot - Temporary Solutions

This is a discussion on Honda Rot - Temporary Solutions in the Body / Exterior / Interior / Cosmetics forum
We all know (or should know) that the only permanent solution to quarter panel rust is to cut out the rusted metal weld new panels in. Let's say however, that I'm buying a beater car with some rot in the quarters, and I'm just wanting ...

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-09-2009, 09:29 PM   #1
 
BrutalB83's Avatar
Posts: 11,121
Default Honda Rot - Temporary Solutions

We all know (or should know) that the only permanent solution to quarter panel rust is to cut out the rusted metal weld new panels in. Let's say however, that I'm buying a beater car with some rot in the quarters, and I'm just wanting to do something cheap and simple to halt the spread of the rust for now, and maybe improve the appearence of it a bit. What would be your suggestions?

And I'm not even wanting to mess with Bondo or anything like that, I'm thinking like 'light sanding and spray on some automotive Rustoleum" type answers. Is that a decent temporary measure? Any other other cost effective (and preferably idiot proof) ideas for temporary Honda Rot management?

I'm pretty much retarded when it comes to body work, so if you know what you're talking about, please educate me...
__________________
Please, DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums so we can all benefit from the answers. I will NOT respond to tech-related PMs...

PSN Network ID: BrutalB83
Current Ride: 2006 RSX Type-S

1 3 5
├┼┼┐ =
2 4 6 R

Last edited by BrutalB83; 04-09-2009 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Idiotic spelling mistakes...
BrutalB83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 09:31 PM   #2
 
nootrac22's Avatar
Posts: 4,270
Default

sand, rust converter, rattle can?
nootrac22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 09:32 PM   #3
 
efhondakid's Avatar
Posts: 6,926
Default

The bare minimum is to grind it out and pack it full of bondo. If you want to stop it from getting worse; Does it still have the rubber strip in the wheel well lip? If so pull that off. Get in your trunk with some white lithium grease and spray the heck out of the inside of the wheel wells.
efhondakid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 09:45 PM   #4
 
BrutalB83's Avatar
Posts: 11,121
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nootrac22 View Post
sand, rust converter, rattle can?
Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Sand a bit, rust converter, primer, and then color? I've painted valve covers before to good result, so I think I could handle that...

Quote:
Originally Posted by efhondakid View Post
The bare minimum is to grind it out and pack it full of bondo. If you want to stop it from getting worse; Does it still have the rubber strip in the wheel well lip? If so pull that off. Get in your trunk with some white lithium grease and spray the heck out of the inside of the wheel wells.
How hard is Bondo to work with? The extent of my knowledge and experience with paint and body is essentially valve cover painting and using rubbing and polishing compound on scratches. Do you think a complete noobie like me could actually make it look halfway decent with Bondo? Or should I just stick with a light sand, rust converter, and then paint?
BrutalB83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 09:49 PM   #5
 
efhondakid's Avatar
Posts: 6,926
Default

Bondo work isnt hard, it takes more patience than anything else. You could try the rust converter route first and see how that works. Hit up the local paint/body supplier and ask them for Ospho, its a very very heavy duty rust converter. Make sure to wear rubber gloves and if your using it on concrete to lay down some cardboard, that shit will eat right through concrete.
efhondakid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 09:53 PM   #6
 
K2e2vin's Avatar
Posts: 8,426
Default

That Purple Power De-ruster eats through concrete too.

Ask me how I know.
K2e2vin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 09:55 PM   #7
 
efhondakid's Avatar
Posts: 6,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by K2e2vin View Post
That Purple Power De-ruster eats through concrete too.

Ask me how I know.
Probably the same way I know about the stuff I mentioned.
efhondakid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2009, 11:40 PM   #8
 
BrutalB83's Avatar
Posts: 11,121
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by K2e2vin View Post
That Purple Power De-ruster eats through concrete too.

Ask me how I know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by efhondakid View Post
Probably the same way I know about the stuff I mentioned.
So, in other words, make sure to be super through with masking and protecting the floor should I decide to use rust converter?
BrutalB83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2009, 02:29 AM   #9
Posts: 168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BrutalB83 View Post
So, in other words, make sure to be super through with masking and protecting the floor should I decide to use rust converter?

you need to stop the rust by grinding it out, like he said above and use filler. Bondo is ok, but a body shop will have much better shit there. I dont use the "bondo" only the fiberglass filler ( green) cause it can flex really well. As for bondo work its easy, put it on LIGHT coats dont go balls out with it, sand with 220 wet paper to avoid messing any thing else up. If you feel 220 is working to slow put some soap in the water if that dose not work i would not go any lower then 120 and finish up with 220 prime then sand with 400 wet paper. ( Always use a block to sand ) Best intrest for you is not using any rust inhibiters, just grind away.

Last edited by ihatemyprelude; 04-10-2009 at 02:32 AM.
ihatemyprelude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2009, 08:02 PM   #10
 
TurboRex90's Avatar
Posts: 1,250
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by K2e2vin View Post
That Purple Power De-ruster eats through concrete too.

Ask me how I know.
oh oh oh! how do you know?..
TurboRex90 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 01:54 AM   #11
 
91_stylin_civic's Avatar
Posts: 349
Default

fiberglass filler works good and it is easy to work with. If you need to mold a corner in you can use wax paper to mold it then peel the paper off as it sets, lighty sand when done and put a thin coat of bondo over to smooth it out
91_stylin_civic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 12:33 PM   #12
 
SlushboxTeggy's Avatar
Posts: 8,396
Default

Civic Duty LLC - Parts To Save Your Honda
Honda patch. Cheap, easy, idiot proof. I've never used one but I've heard good things.
SlushboxTeggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 05:07 PM   #13
Posts: 168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlushboxTeggy View Post
Civic Duty LLC - Parts To Save Your Honda
Honda patch. Cheap, easy, idiot proof. I've never used one but I've heard good things.
I use the molds on my friends 91 hatch, it works great nothing wrong to say about it. But i was talking like surface rust on a flat or semi flat surface, if its to the point you need a mold then its new quarter time.
ihatemyprelude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:01 PM   #14
Posts: 45
Default

the paint you want is POR15. it will stick to rust, and seal so good that the rust cant 'grow' i use it all the time on farm equipment that spends its life in mud. its a glossy black when it drys, but once its dry, you can paint right over it with whatever color you want, and any paint will stick to it.
DONT GET THIS STUFF ON YOUR SKIN!!! you will have black hands for 3-4 weeks before it starts falling off. and dont even bother trying to get it out of clothes, they will be destroyed. wear your junky work clothes.
cambruggeman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:07 PM   #15
 
efhondakid's Avatar
Posts: 6,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cambruggeman View Post
the paint you want is POR15. it will stick to rust, and seal so good that the rust cant 'grow' i use it all the time on farm equipment that spends its life in mud. its a glossy black when it drys, but once its dry, you can paint right over it with whatever color you want, and any paint will stick to it.
DONT GET THIS STUFF ON YOUR SKIN!!! you will have black hands for 3-4 weeks before it starts falling off. and dont even bother trying to get it out of clothes, they will be destroyed. wear your junky work clothes.
Ive used stuff that sounds very similar to that other than its grey and called DP, its great stuff.
efhondakid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:30 PM   #16
 
eastbxc's Avatar
Posts: 822
Default

So this POR15 you just spary it over the rusted area then spray the paint over the top once it dries? Where can you get that stuff at?
eastbxc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:36 PM   #17
 
efhondakid's Avatar
Posts: 6,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by eastbxc View Post
So this POR15 you just spary it over the rusted area then spray the paint over the top once it dries? Where can you get that stuff at?
No no the metal has to be competly clean, rust converter, then that sealer then paint.
efhondakid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2009, 07:37 PM   #18
 
eastbxc's Avatar
Posts: 822
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by efhondakid View Post
No no the metal has to be competly clean, rust converter, then that sealer then paint.
I was going to say that almost sounded to easy.
eastbxc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-13-2009, 12:49 AM   #19
 
phyregod's Avatar
Posts: 9,343
Default

Have it sand blasted. Then shoot it with bare metal primer and "automotive" rattle can paint just to seal it up really well. Then you can mess with it when you get time.
phyregod is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2010, 09:02 AM   #20
Posts: 2
Default rust repair panels

My 91 Civic had mad Honda Rot and it was driving me crazy. I love the car but it was really frustrating that it was looking so terrible. My wife was even embarrassed to take it to church. I had been looking all over for replacement panels and got a hold of some real cheap at www.fixmyrust.com. The wheel arches were like $31 and the rocker panels were $44. I have some experience welding but could use some tips so my car looks hot again. I would appreciate any help-thanks.
csraiders is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2010, 10:06 AM   #21
 
newb's Avatar
Posts: 3,660
Default

Youll prally have more help if you start another thread of your own. But there are ppl here who have welded panels before, with good results. Some, pretty recently.
newb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 10:00 AM   #22
Posts: 2
Default

how do i start a new post?
csraiders is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2010, 12:04 PM   #23
 
BrutalB83's Avatar
Posts: 11,121
Default

It's always funny to see one of your own threads rise from the dead!

To start a new one, you just go into the appropriate forum, and then click the "Create New Thread" button at the top left...
BrutalB83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2010, 06:49 AM   #24
 
white rice's Avatar
Posts: 42
Default

i work in a body shop and have done these types of repairs daily. some of the stuff mentioned in this thread are accurate. my suggestion would be if its smaller than a quarter i would just clean what rust you can off and spray with rust converter like mentioned. if it is any bigger you will want to try and patch it with bondo, (most likely the rust will come back. the best option would be to cut all the rust out and make a patch panel or buy the wheel arch's as mentioned and have someone weld it in... what i would do is have someone who can weld/somewhat body inclined and cut it out and replace it. its your best option and you should only do it once and done.
__________________
98 contour svt clone
03 nissa altima 2.5s
96 ek civic-in process, need alot of parts
white rice is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2010, 10:36 PM   #25
 
drbelanger73's Avatar
Posts: 486
Default

Hard to really make a call without seeing the severity of the rot or its location.
drbelanger73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Hello Guest, why not Register an account with us now to access all of our features and be able to interact with the community?

Already have an account? Login now!


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Radiator solutions? Ckage83 HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC 12 07-31-2007 07:53 PM
Office Postage Solutions reckedracing Members' Lounge 4 02-27-2007 05:21 PM
Finally pics of the temporary conversion ThatGuy4life Body / Exterior / Interior / Cosmetics 21 01-24-2007 03:43 AM
Wireing solutions DeCoY HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA 0 03-06-2006 09:36 AM
f22 gone, h22 in, wiring solutions Uppertorso HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD 4 02-29-2004 12:01 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.x
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO
© 2001-2013 HondaSwap.com