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ryangt · 12-05-2004, 12:44 PM

my rex is red, its kinda fading but no paint damage yet so im pretty sure it dosent need to be taken down to bare metal before i paint it. My question is how should i go about preping the existing paint fo rthe new paint????
also i have a grey fender and a black door on it and i was curious if i can scuf those and repaint or would i have to take them to metal becasue of the dark color???
i will be repainting torch red.

any help is much much apreciated

Citizen_Insane · 12-05-2004, 01:26 PM

You need to sand it down before you repaint it. Not nessisarily all the way to the metal, but you sould knock off the clear coat so the next paint sticks well.

swanny · 12-05-2004, 01:40 PM

Sand it down with 320, or 400 whichever you prefer. The fender and the door might require a few more coats to match, you could also use a tinted sealer so you dont go through as much basecoat.

hcivic.com · 12-05-2004, 02:55 PM

use the 3m scuff pads any napa carries them and they work good.

ryangt · 12-12-2004, 01:48 AM

ok so i just need to take the clear coat off to repaint?? I took that fender all the way to bare metal with stripper so it should be fine, that door is black to so will it bleed through or anything since the car will be red ?
Any tips would be appreciated
thanks

swanny · 12-12-2004, 02:49 AM

You dont need to take the entire coat of clear off, just scuff or sand it until it's not glossy. I would suggest sealing or priming the fender you stripped or you might have a problem with the paint lifting or rust happening. Both the door and the fender might require an extra coat of basecoat if you decide not to tint the primer.

ryangt · 12-12-2004, 02:54 AM

i just cleaned the fender with acetone so its all clean n stuff, im gonna prime it in the morning, then paint it when im ready to paint the whole car, Ok so just as long as its not glossy i should be good right?? i should use like 600 grit to take it down to dull right??

what about plastics? i want to paint all the moldings and mirrors and black exterior stuff black so i dont need to worry about crappy plastic fading? i was just planning on scuffin the plastic and cleaning it then shootin it with black and clear?

Citizen_Insane · 12-12-2004, 03:54 AM

Yes, you should rough up all surfaces before painting them.

hcivic.com · 12-12-2004, 05:10 AM

to shoot plastic you must do a couple extra steps ie add a flex additive to help the paint bond and a addhesion permoter to help the primer to etch

swanny · 12-12-2004, 12:12 PM

Use something like 320 or 400 to sand the clear down. Bumpers should be painted with a flex additive in your base and clear.

ryangt · 12-12-2004, 02:56 PM

well i got the paint from a guy on ebay he sells really good stuff and it was cheap, he dosent have the flex additive or the clear, anyone know where i could pick that kind of stuff up??

swanny · 12-12-2004, 05:22 PM

NAPA, or any auto body supply store.

hcivic.com · 12-12-2004, 07:15 PM

Do not buy paint of ebay

ryangt · 12-12-2004, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by hcivic.com@Dec 12 2004, 08:15 PM
Do not buy paint of ebay

Quoted post

whys that?? it seems like pretty good stuff and ive seen a bunch of pics of the cars it was used on they came out pretty good

swanny · 12-12-2004, 08:12 PM

What brand is it? try and get the same brand of basecoat/clearcoat/reducer/hardener/flex additive so you dont have any issues with compatibility.

ryangt · 12-12-2004, 08:44 PM

the brand is Hawthorne "Rayflex" Acrylic Enamel the dood sells it for 30 bones plus shipping of 12 bucks so thats pretty cheap and the corvette he sprayed this red on looks badass

swanny · 12-12-2004, 08:57 PM

I did a google search on it and it sounds like decent stuff, but it is a single stage paint not a basecoat/clearcoat type, you could try to clear over it but again, but I'm not too sure about compatibility, paint is pretty touchy stuff and it could have issues with solvent pop, cracking, adhesion etc. Maybe tab or hcivic, driver 1 or one of those guys would know more, I am only familiar with PPG, DuPont, Glasruit, Nason and ICI Autocolor. Here is a link to the threads about it
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/ar...x.php/t-196448
http://forums.pimprig.com/archive/topic/19421.html

ryangt · 12-12-2004, 09:08 PM

yeah it sounds like everyone says its good paint, the guy sells clear also the same brand so maybe ill get that from him also so everything matches, he cant ship hardener or reducer so ill have to get that somewhere else, whats a good brand??
also how many gallons would i need to spray a crx??
how do i mix the paint?? as in the hardened and reduer to paitn n stuff
the clear is not reduced or anything is it??

swanny · 12-12-2004, 09:44 PM

Get the same brand of reducer and hardener clearcoat etc as your basecoat. Mixing directions will be on the can, it will be something like 4:2:1 or something, brands differ. The clearcoat will also need to be reduced and some sort of catalyst added. A gallon if not less should suffice, try calling a auto body supply store and see if they carry the Hawthorne or if not see if they can get you in touch with someone who does, It could be NAPA, Autozone etc. and they should be answer any questions about the product and how much you will need.

hcivic.com · 12-12-2004, 11:55 PM

i know of it but i don't use it myself,like swanny said check on the clear cause single stages i find tend to be picky when adding clear coat

ryangt · 12-13-2004, 01:07 AM

i bought clear from the same guy, so i have base and clear both from hawthorne so they should work ok together right? How do i get it all mixed right???

hcivic.com · 12-13-2004, 01:08 AM

the guy that sold it to you should be able to help. but you need the same brand of reducer and hardner and a reducer/ cata\ylist for the clear

12-05-2004, 12:44 PM	#1
ryangt Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 745 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	my rex is red, its kinda fading but no paint damage yet so im pretty sure it dosent need to be taken down to bare metal before i paint it. My question is how should i go about preping the existing paint fo rthe new paint???? also i have a grey fender and a black door on it and i was curious if i can scuf those and repaint or would i have to take them to metal becasue of the dark color??? i will be repainting torch red. any help is much much apreciated __________________ 2001 Civic EX 2dr, shes beautiful, soon to be turbo. 1991 Crx dx Ls MONSTER BUILD ys1 trans its a beast.

12-05-2004, 01:26 PM	#2
Citizen_Insane Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 3,701 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 51	You need to sand it down before you repaint it. Not nessisarily all the way to the metal, but you sould knock off the clear coat so the next paint sticks well. __________________ No tech questions through PM please! B16 CRX....you will be missed

12-05-2004, 01:40 PM	#3
swanny Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: buck teeth and government checks, PA Posts: 3,782 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 50	Sand it down with 320, or 400 whichever you prefer. The fender and the door might require a few more coats to match, you could also use a tinted sealer so you dont go through as much basecoat. __________________ http://www.midwesthybrid.com

12-12-2004, 01:48 AM	#5
ryangt Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 745 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	ok so i just need to take the clear coat off to repaint?? I took that fender all the way to bare metal with stripper so it should be fine, that door is black to so will it bleed through or anything since the car will be red ? Any tips would be appreciated thanks __________________ 2001 Civic EX 2dr, shes beautiful, soon to be turbo. 1991 Crx dx Ls MONSTER BUILD ys1 trans its a beast.

12-12-2004, 02:49 AM	#6
swanny Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: buck teeth and government checks, PA Posts: 3,782 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 50	You dont need to take the entire coat of clear off, just scuff or sand it until it's not glossy. I would suggest sealing or priming the fender you stripped or you might have a problem with the paint lifting or rust happening. Both the door and the fender might require an extra coat of basecoat if you decide not to tint the primer. __________________ http://www.midwesthybrid.com


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12-05-2004, 02:55 PM	#4
hcivic.com Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Calgary Alberta canada Posts: 4,577 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 59	use the 3m scuff pads any napa carries them and they work good.

12-12-2004, 02:54 AM	#7
ryangt Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 745 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	i just cleaned the fender with acetone so its all clean n stuff, im gonna prime it in the morning, then paint it when im ready to paint the whole car, Ok so just as long as its not glossy i should be good right?? i should use like 600 grit to take it down to dull right?? what about plastics? i want to paint all the moldings and mirrors and black exterior stuff black so i dont need to worry about crappy plastic fading? i was just planning on scuffin the plastic and cleaning it then shootin it with black and clear? __________________ 2001 Civic EX 2dr, shes beautiful, soon to be turbo. 1991 Crx dx Ls MONSTER BUILD ys1 trans its a beast.

12-12-2004, 03:54 AM	#8
Citizen_Insane Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 3,701 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 51	Yes, you should rough up all surfaces before painting them. __________________ No tech questions through PM please! B16 CRX....you will be missed

12-12-2004, 05:10 AM	#9
hcivic.com Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Calgary Alberta canada Posts: 4,577 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 59	to shoot plastic you must do a couple extra steps ie add a flex additive to help the paint bond and a addhesion permoter to help the primer to etch

12-12-2004, 12:12 PM	#10
swanny Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: buck teeth and government checks, PA Posts: 3,782 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 50	Use something like 320 or 400 to sand the clear down. Bumpers should be painted with a flex additive in your base and clear. __________________ http://www.midwesthybrid.com

12-12-2004, 02:56 PM	#11
ryangt Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 745 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	well i got the paint from a guy on ebay he sells really good stuff and it was cheap, he dosent have the flex additive or the clear, anyone know where i could pick that kind of stuff up?? __________________ 2001 Civic EX 2dr, shes beautiful, soon to be turbo. 1991 Crx dx Ls MONSTER BUILD ys1 trans its a beast.

12-12-2004, 05:22 PM	#12
swanny Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: buck teeth and government checks, PA Posts: 3,782 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 50	NAPA, or any auto body supply store. __________________ http://www.midwesthybrid.com

12-12-2004, 07:15 PM	#13
hcivic.com Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Calgary Alberta canada Posts: 4,577 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 59	Do not buy paint of ebay

12-12-2004, 08:12 PM	#15
swanny Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: buck teeth and government checks, PA Posts: 3,782 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 50	What brand is it? try and get the same brand of basecoat/clearcoat/reducer/hardener/flex additive so you dont have any issues with compatibility. __________________ http://www.midwesthybrid.com

12-12-2004, 08:44 PM	#16
ryangt Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 745 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	the brand is Hawthorne "Rayflex" Acrylic Enamel the dood sells it for 30 bones plus shipping of 12 bucks so thats pretty cheap and the corvette he sprayed this red on looks badass __________________ 2001 Civic EX 2dr, shes beautiful, soon to be turbo. 1991 Crx dx Ls MONSTER BUILD ys1 trans its a beast.

12-12-2004, 08:57 PM	#17
swanny Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: buck teeth and government checks, PA Posts: 3,782 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 50	I did a google search on it and it sounds like decent stuff, but it is a single stage paint not a basecoat/clearcoat type, you could try to clear over it but again, but I'm not too sure about compatibility, paint is pretty touchy stuff and it could have issues with solvent pop, cracking, adhesion etc. Maybe tab or hcivic, driver 1 or one of those guys would know more, I am only familiar with PPG, DuPont, Glasruit, Nason and ICI Autocolor. Here is a link to the threads about it http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/ar...x.php/t-196448 http://forums.pimprig.com/archive/topic/19421.html __________________ http://www.midwesthybrid.com

12-12-2004, 09:08 PM	#18
ryangt Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 745 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	yeah it sounds like everyone says its good paint, the guy sells clear also the same brand so maybe ill get that from him also so everything matches, he cant ship hardener or reducer so ill have to get that somewhere else, whats a good brand?? also how many gallons would i need to spray a crx?? how do i mix the paint?? as in the hardened and reduer to paitn n stuff the clear is not reduced or anything is it?? __________________ 2001 Civic EX 2dr, shes beautiful, soon to be turbo. 1991 Crx dx Ls MONSTER BUILD ys1 trans its a beast.

12-12-2004, 09:44 PM	#19
swanny Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: buck teeth and government checks, PA Posts: 3,782 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 50	Get the same brand of reducer and hardener clearcoat etc as your basecoat. Mixing directions will be on the can, it will be something like 4:2:1 or something, brands differ. The clearcoat will also need to be reduced and some sort of catalyst added. A gallon if not less should suffice, try calling a auto body supply store and see if they carry the Hawthorne or if not see if they can get you in touch with someone who does, It could be NAPA, Autozone etc. and they should be answer any questions about the product and how much you will need. __________________ http://www.midwesthybrid.com

12-12-2004, 11:55 PM	#20
hcivic.com Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Calgary Alberta canada Posts: 4,577 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 59	i know of it but i don't use it myself,like swanny said check on the clear cause single stages i find tend to be picky when adding clear coat

12-13-2004, 01:07 AM	#21
ryangt Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Riverside, CA Posts: 745 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 18	i bought clear from the same guy, so i have base and clear both from hawthorne so they should work ok together right? How do i get it all mixed right??? __________________ 2001 Civic EX 2dr, shes beautiful, soon to be turbo. 1991 Crx dx Ls MONSTER BUILD ys1 trans its a beast.

12-13-2004, 01:08 AM	#22
hcivic.com Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Calgary Alberta canada Posts: 4,577 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 59	the guy that sold it to you should be able to help. but you need the same brand of reducer and hardner and a reducer/ cata\ylist for the clear

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How do i repaint?????