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Old 08-12-2008, 08:19 PM   #1
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Default Electrical/Audio Bullshit

I think this is the right area for this, but basically, my CD player no longer feels like reading my burned CDs, I've had various electrical issues that I think are attributed with the failure of my dizzies, and at times, when the volume's up, but the music's not playing, there will be this high-pitched buzzing the gets higher as I accelerate. It's constantly there when it does come on and I've check that the wires are connected all the way to the old 6x9's I have back there. In case anyone asks, I DID NOT do any of the wiring for the car and audio shit, I just hooked it up to what was there. Any ideas if it's hazardous?

PS When I push the clutch in and my headlights are on, they dim until I let off the clutch and push the gas. In case it might be related somehow.
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Old 08-12-2008, 08:30 PM   #2
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check all your engine bay grounds.... by check i mean clean them up too.

if you have the cash go on ebay and order the ralliart hyperground kit, i used it on my little SOHC and replaced all teh ground wires. never had a dimming issue since. they are all 4GA.
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Old 08-12-2008, 08:31 PM   #3
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Newb question, but where are all the grounds at? I only know of maybe one or two. I've checked my battery cables, it's a little corroded, but fine.
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Old 08-12-2008, 10:45 PM   #4
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ground from battery to transmission,ground from chasis to valve cover,ground from engine harness to the thermostat housing in the rear/passengers side of the block
the ralliart kit is very good idea
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Old 08-12-2008, 11:39 PM   #5
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and looks nice too.
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Old 08-13-2008, 02:13 AM   #6
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Links? I tried looking for it, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for, so help?? lol.
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Old 08-13-2008, 02:48 AM   #7
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Check wiring, spark plugs and spark plug wires. There may be radio interference.
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Old 08-13-2008, 03:36 AM   #8
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The only wiring I haven't really messed with is the ground wires. I've changed out my spark plugs and wires only months ago, new dizzy....idk....
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Old 08-13-2008, 04:18 AM   #9
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Are the spark plugs resistor type(NGK's have an R on the plug to denote this)?
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Old 08-13-2008, 04:24 AM   #10
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I don't know, never checked. Hm. Guess I could tomorrow. What does that mean?
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Old 08-13-2008, 08:51 AM   #11
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eBay Motors: UNIVERSAL 7 WIRE CENTRAL GROUND/GROUNDING CABLE KIT RED (item 170248003355 end time Aug-13-08 17:38:52 PDT)
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Old 08-13-2008, 09:51 AM   #12
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Tech - K-Series Spark Plug Interference Warning

For your CD player, try putting a cleaning disc in it, and see if that helps. If not, you'll have to adjust the potentimeter inside the unit to increase power to the laser. Generally the output of the laser starts declining as the laser diode dies, so it might be easier to buy a new head unit. (Hey, I'm selling two different head units!!!)

EDIT: here's a link for tuning the pot on the cd player: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread/t-8113.html
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:15 PM   #13
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I just bought this CD player in May, it shouldn't be dying yet. I'm still not sure about the noise, I'll check it when I have a good day to fuck around with things. But I don't know if I mentioned that my CD player doesn't like to play burned CDs anymore. The way I understand it, it takes the most voltage to run the laser. I think it takes more voltage even to read burned CDs. So, if the burned CDs aren't playing, then it's definitely some kind of electrical thing. My last stereo pulled this shit too.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:19 PM   #14
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Try switching brands of blank CDs.

Then try switching out the CD burner in your computer, or burning the discs slower.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:21 PM   #15
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Hmmm. It can't be CD brand, I have a few different kinds, all work at first then eventually just stop after a few plays.....can't switch out the burner in my computer, it's not mine and it's inside the computer itself (Mac). Guess all I can do is try to burn them slower. I use iTunes, so that would be in the settings?
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleaf.CRX View Post
I just bought this CD player in May, it shouldn't be dying yet.
Most places have a 90-day return policy. I would exchange it. After that, I would check for your ground while the radio is out. Should be the black wire behind your console, as well as all the grounds everyone else is talking about.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:24 PM   #17
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I'm not in front of my Mac right now, remind me when I get home. My AIM is whitehat_optix.

Try using some more expensive CDs instead of the cheapest ones you can find. I've learned over the years that there's a reason they're cheap.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:24 PM   #18
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Okay, got it. I'll try that next, but not sure it'll really make a difference....This CD player's supposed to be high-tech wtf? It plays iPod, memory cards, thumb drives (I think) and CDs..... It does have a small built-in amp (110 watts I think). If that makes any difference.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:26 PM   #19
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My brother had one in his car that got really hot all the time. Once it got hot, it would stop working... Maybe that's it? Just a suggestion.
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Old 08-13-2008, 01:27 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleaf.CRX View Post
110 watts I think
Lol. My home theater puts out that much RMS per channel. 110W is probably the PMPO power rating, Peak Music Power Output.

Basicly they take the max instantanious power output, multiply it by the voltage, while dividing by the square root of the actual wattage, then multiply it by the square of the square root of the cube of their oldest living relative's age. Yeah, it's a BS rating system.

110 Watts means that if it draws 10 amps, it only loses 10 Watts to heat. This is assuming that there are no lights on the front, or cd player, or supplying any power over usb (500mA @ 5V) either. That's one efficient ampflier circut. I want two.

Last edited by awptickes; 08-13-2008 at 01:29 PM.
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