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Old 08-13-2008, 06:25 PM   #26
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the radio is most likely 180/200/or 208 watts. Probably 208 if it's nice.

I would imagine that the ground for the radio might be disconnected. Who installed it? If it was put in by Circuit City or something, maybe take it back there and have them check their work. They might have f'd up a ground wire.
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:56 PM   #27
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I had a kid I know modify the harness and I installed it. Basically plug and play though, for my part of it. I'll look into it....
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:58 PM   #28
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Yeah, ground might be falling off
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:58 PM   #29
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I'm working on your picture too!!
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Old 08-13-2008, 06:59 PM   #30
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Okay, thanks!!!
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:33 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleaf.CRX View Post
Right now, the majority of blank Cd brands I use are HP LaserJet M2727....um, wtf ever that means lol. I'm anything-electronically impaired, sorry lol.
Laserjet M2727 would be a printer, not a blank CD-R

I have had CD-Rom drives and Car Audio CD players just stop reading discs as well. Usually it's the CD drive.

As far as hearing a buzzing noise while while accelerating. It's usually alternator noise on the power lines to a stereo or an Amp, it's a very common problem in car audio
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:43 PM   #32
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I don't know anything about electronics and the such. I said that. I just read what was on the CD case.


My alternaor belt squeaks, is that a problem?
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:49 PM   #33
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It wouldn't hurt to get it fixed
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Old 08-13-2008, 10:54 PM   #34
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Just replace the belt? Any special tips for that?
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Old 08-13-2008, 11:48 PM   #35
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Nothing special. They are actually pretty easy to replace. I find having a pry bar is quite handy so you can pull the belt tight...
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:03 AM   #36
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Pull it tight?
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:12 AM   #37
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When you loosen up the alternator, switch out belts, and go to put it back together/tighten it, you will need something to take the slack out of the belt. I have always put a pry bar in there and pulled it while someone else tightens down the bolts...
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:13 AM   #38
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Okay. Hey, I can research it, but I'm at work, so....how much for a new belt? I'll use my guide to put the new one in. I figure it's about time to change it out. Will that help with anything in particular, such as acceleration, electrical issues, etc?
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:14 AM   #39
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I think the last time I had to buy one it was only about $15 or so. It's been a while, so don't hold it against me if that isn't the case.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:17 AM   #40
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Okay, I'll try not to lol. Just kidding. But I'll see what my budget is. Chances are it's never, ever been changed out.

Really though, are there any immediate benefits to changing it out? I'm just curious.
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Old 08-14-2008, 03:21 AM   #41
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Yes; it won't break or wear out in the near future.

Why not just try a new head unit? I've seen people sell decent ones for $40-$70.
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Old 08-14-2008, 06:20 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caboose View Post
the radio is most likely 180/200/or 208 watts. Probably 208 if it's nice.
Uh, how's 200 watts even possible? Remember that energy cannot be created nor destroyed, now let's move on:

10 Ampres (The radio and clock fuse rating in a civic.) @ 14 Volts (the average voltage of the car's electrical system with the alternator running properly) gives you 140 Watts of available power.

Out of the 140 Watts, you have the lights on the front of the stereo and the cd player motor, and the car's clock. Let's call this 0.5A, so that's 7 watts.

140 - 7 = 133 Watts left.

Now let's give your stereo the benefit of the doubt, and call it a Class B audio amp (Not the most efficent, but not the best sounding either, good compromise.) That'll have a theoretical maximum of 78.5% efficency.

133 * 0.785 = 104.405 Watts of Audio Energy.

That gives your cd player the maximum output of all channels as about 104 Watts. Divide that by the number of channels (4 in most cases) and that gives you 26 watts.

104.405 watts total output / 4 channels = 26.10125 Watts per channel RMS

So, as you see, 200 watts isn't possible from a head unit, much less, over 26.10125 (significant digit rounding makes it 26.1 W) watts.


Have a great day.


EDIT: I just realized that it'll probably be a Class D ampliflier in the head unit, so replace the 78.5 figure with 95. I also forgot the power lost in heating up the wiring too, so remember to figure that in. It's a rough estimate, but I'd leave the final figure at somewhere around 20 watts per channel maxumim. Remember that in reality, those head units never draw anywhere near the full 10 amps available.

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Old 08-14-2008, 10:42 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aleaf.CRX View Post
Just replace the belt? Any special tips for that?
If its not worn out, dont replace it. If all it does is squeak you can put some belt dressing on it and the squeak will stop. Or if you dont wanna spend a couple bucks for a tube of belt dressing, just rub candle wax on the belt, it works every time.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:05 PM   #44
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yeah belt dressing also makes a HUGE mess.
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Old 08-14-2008, 12:31 PM   #45
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Quote:
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yeah belt dressing also makes a HUGE mess.
This is true. Thats why I suggested candle wax. I use it on sqeaky belts and it has worked every time, without the mess.
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