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Old 08-18-2008, 01:37 AM   #1
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Default Need audio help? Post here.

While I may be useless when it comes to knowing stuff about Hondas, I do know a ton about audio. I've been an addict for 5 years, and am learning something new every day. I used to work as an installer, and have done several full installs myself.

If you need sub/amp/speaker/head unit recommendations, hit me up- I always try to find the best bang for the buck.

Here are some good companies I recommend:

Subs: Fi, Audioque, Kicker, Mach 5 Audio, Sound Solutions Audio, RE Audio, Incriminator Audio, MB Quart

Amps: Kicker, Sundown, Incriminator Audio, Audioque, USAmps, Hifonics (on a budget)

Speakers: MB Quart, Pioneer, Phoenix Gold, Polk, Tang Band

Head Units: Pioneer, Clarion, Kenwood, Eclipse

LMK if I can help you in any way.
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Old 08-18-2008, 02:08 AM   #2
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Ok, I have a 100watt MTX amp, it keeps melting the 30amp fuse, melting it. It will blow it, but only after it has completely melted the plastic body of the fuse. What could be the cause of this?
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:13 AM   #3
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Ok, I have a 100watt MTX amp, it keeps melting the 30amp fuse, melting it. It will blow it, but only after it has completely melted the plastic body of the fuse. What could be the cause of this?
Heat????
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:36 AM   #4
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either one... you have a serious grounding issue and possibly a short, or you have the wrong size fuse for the voltage or amperage. you might have a 6v fuse in there when you need a 12v fuse.
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Old 08-18-2008, 10:10 AM   #5
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Its a 12v 30amp fuse. My ground wire is a size or two smaller than my positive wire.
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Old 08-18-2008, 12:42 PM   #6
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theres your problem. Your ground wire is too small. It has to be able to get rid of that excess power somewhere. thus, chassis ground. If that power doesnt have anywhere to go then it will take the path of least resistance. Your fuse, perse, is the path of least resistance. It will transfer the current into heat to dissipate the power. Ultimately get an equal size ground cable.
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Old 08-18-2008, 07:16 PM   #7
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theres your problem. Your ground wire is too small. It has to be able to get rid of that excess power somewhere. thus, chassis ground. If that power doesnt have anywhere to go then it will take the path of least resistance. Your fuse, perse, is the path of least resistance. It will transfer the current into heat to dissipate the power. Ultimately get an equal size ground cable.
Not exactly...

I would upgrade the ground cable and see what happens.
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Old 08-18-2008, 10:09 PM   #8
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relatively close
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:33 PM   #9
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In addition to what was stated above, make sure your ground wire is relatively short. I mean, not like 16 freakin feet long. ~2-3 ft is usually a good length.

The ground should always be as big or bigger than the power wire.
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:37 PM   #10
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Its not "getting rid of excess power".. its completing the circuit. But yeah, they should at least be equal sizes. Too small / bad ground causes all kinds of issues.

30 amps sounds a bit high for a 100 watt amp. Even bridged to 2 ohms you should only need a 20 amp. That could be causing the excessive heat issues before blowing.
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Old 08-19-2008, 12:09 AM   #11
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Not really... the fuse isn't the path of least resistance. The small ground just ads more resistance.

Plus he isn't blowing fuses, he's melting them... meaning his amp is probably overheating.
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Old 08-19-2008, 01:37 AM   #12
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Definitely make sure your power and ground wires are the correct size. I usually recommend nothing smaller than a 8awg kit for an amp that size. Make sure there are no shorts in your system, and your ground goes to solid, shiny metal (aka sand off the paint; it's an insulator)

Oh, and for the love of God, don't ever turn your gain to max. If it's not loud enough, you need a bigger amp and/or a bigger sub.
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Old 08-19-2008, 08:37 AM   #13
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30 amps sounds a bit high for a 100 watt amp. Even bridged to 2 ohms you should only need a 20 amp. That could be causing the excessive heat issues before blowing.
It is, Ill have to get a bigger ground, and maybe drop to a 25 or 20 amp.

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Definitely make sure your power and ground wires are the correct size. I usually recommend nothing smaller than a 8awg kit for an amp that size. Make sure there are no shorts in your system, and your ground goes to solid, shiny metal (aka sand off the paint; it's an insulator)

Oh, and for the love of God, don't ever turn your gain to max. If it's not loud enough, you need a bigger amp and/or a bigger sub.
I know how to tune my amp (feel the bass, not hear it) I hate when I get into my friends car and they have a 1000watt amp and two 12s and it bangs and all you can hear is bass. Then they say "Why does your system sound better?"
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Old 08-19-2008, 03:01 PM   #14
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how many amps fuse is best for 1000 watts? how many for 1200?
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Old 08-19-2008, 03:39 PM   #15
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IMO, 30a-60a for 1000w. But it all depends on the current that the amp is pulling.
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Old 08-19-2008, 05:08 PM   #16
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I usually fuse to about the same amount the amp is fused for. My last 1000w amp was fused at 90A, so I put a 100A fuse on it.
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Old 08-19-2008, 05:55 PM   #17
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Hang on, are we talking about the inline fuse for the battery cable, or the fuse that actually goes into the amp.

I think that every sub that I've seen has a 20A... or maybe a 30A in there.
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Old 08-19-2008, 07:53 PM   #18
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About what would some crossfire xt-2 12" go for? I hear they are some awesome spl woofers.
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Old 08-19-2008, 08:19 PM   #19
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About what would some crossfire xt-2 12" go for? I hear they are some awesome spl woofers.
Not sure, I'm not a huge crossfire fan. Not saying they're not good subs, just never been deep into them.

If you want some awesome SPL woofers, check out the Fi Car Audio BTL, the Digital Designs 9500, the AudioQue HDC3, the RE MT, DC Audio Level 5, Mach 5 SPL12, Sundown Audio Nightshade or the Incriminator Audio Death Penalty. All are incredible woofers.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:22 AM   #20
yeah, it's a vtec.
 
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Was asking because I have one used and one brand new if anyone is interested. I am really familiar with crossfire. I had one in this crx ported box @3.15ft @48 htz doing 145.8 usaci stock. I now have a DD 9518g and doing same numbers with half the power tuned to 57 htz. I do a lot of SPL comps. It is rumored that Crossfire is now the makers of FI, well you know how all that B.S. works. And also, you forgot to mention the Atomic apocoplypse sub WITH FLAT WOUND COILS! 1 10" on 4800w 152.7dB in a crx!!!
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:23 AM   #21
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cadence beastmaster is a badass sub to if you want a badass system go with a cadence daytona 2500 series amp with a cadence beastmaster 15. my friend hit 151 db with his in a comp.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:26 AM   #22
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Not doubting Cadence. My one Crossfire 12 was beat by a girl with 3-15" beast and a cadence amadeus, usaci stock 0-600. but only by 2Db
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:43 AM   #23
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Was asking because I have one used and one brand new if anyone is interested. I am really familiar with crossfire. I had one in this crx ported box @3.15ft @48 htz doing 145.8 usaci stock. I now have a DD 9518g and doing same numbers with half the power tuned to 57 htz. I do a lot of SPL comps. It is rumored that Crossfire is now the makers of FI, well you know how all that B.S. works. And also, you forgot to mention the Atomic apocoplypse sub WITH FLAT WOUND COILS! 1 10" on 4800w 152.7dB in a crx!!!
Yeah, Rexes are crazy loud. I could totally see an Atomic doing a 152 in one. In my van, I peaked at 144.8 with a Kicker L7 15" in 4.5 @ 34 and a Lightning Audio X1.2000.1D. It was pretty sick for a daily system. I had an AudioQue HD3 and it was really loud, but I never got it on the meter. Was a lot louder to the ear.
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