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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Orlando FL Age: 22
Posts: 8
iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 95 mustang
Rep Power: 0 | I really need some help. I'm trying to put in a toggle switch so i can turn off my system when it's not in use but i don't even know where to start. All I know is that the amp is directly connected to the battery and pulls juice all the time, I had to replace it once. Can some one HELP ME PLEASE! |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member | by system I'm guessing you mean stereo? Put it in the line from the Amp to the battery if that's what you want to switch on and off, then install the switch somewhere in your dash and wire accordinly then change your alternator, mustang alt's suck lol BTW this is the member's lounge, look around, we have a section for both "other vehicles" and "electronics" welcome |
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| | #3 | |
| TTIWWOP Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: 845 Area, NY Age: 30
Posts: 15,740
iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 z6-t hatch, 94 Bagged S10, 91 Lifted Mazda
Rep Power: 515 | you need to run the switch between the amp turn on signal from the radio to the amp... there are only 4 or 5 wires going to an amp usually 2 RCA's 1 wires, 2 sides 1 power 1 ground 1 small wire that tells the amp when to turn on... thats where you want your switch but why not just listen to it at reasonable levels so you can enjoy it all the time? Quote:
or if you must splice into your 12 power supply you can use a 100% duty solonoid to interupt the power supply to the amp
__________________ "I find that the harder I work, the more luck I seem to have." - Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826) Last edited by reckedracing; 09-27-2006 at 03:30 PM. | |
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| | #5 |
| YEEEEAAHHHHH Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Whitinsville, Massachusetts Age: 23
Posts: 2,553
iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2009 Fit Sport
Rep Power: 48 | This has to be the seventh misposted thread today in the members lounge...this crap really needs to slow down or stop. We have 13 tech forums, and Other Vehicles, please post it in the appropriate forum. |
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| | #7 | |
| Doc Brown says Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Langley BC Age: 33
Posts: 210
iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 04 Civic LX Coupe...(it's Blue)
Rep Power: 16 | Quote:
Pull the deck out. You can do this easy enough.... either use the removal keys which are flat pieces of tin that unlock the pins or tabs on the side of all aftermarket decks. The check to make sure that you indeed have a "Remote Turn-On" Lead..... on some decks there are TWO blue wires.... the difference being one will be solid blue and the other will be blue with a white stripe...... For the most part, the blue with white stripe wire is the one you need to extend all the way back to your amp. From what I read it sounds like whoever hooked it up, just jumped power from the 12V input terminal of the amp to the "Rem." terminal. If you can tell me what year your Rustang is and what kind of deck and amp you have...... I'll come over while you're sleeping and relieve you of your wiring burden. Just kidding, tell me the info and I might even be able to tell you what side of the amp to look on, how to get your particular deck out, and which wire to hook up. You can also check to make sure the amp is grounded to a clean, paint-free metal surface...... some amps will turn on and stay on if the ground is weak or making intermittent contact.... Had an old school Blue Thunder by MTX that did that.... the power light wouldn't go off till I grounded the lil bitch Hope this helps dbadct@hotmail.com Cheers | |
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| | #8 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Orlando FL Age: 22
Posts: 8
iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 95 mustang
Rep Power: 0 | it's a 1995 mustang, nothing special. The amp and speakers are Visonik and the deck is a sony Xplod (100db+ 52wX4) i don't know if you needed all that info or not but figured better safe then sorry. I did check the rem wire and it's going to the sony in the right place but my ground site is a little rusted but there is no paint. Do you think this might have something to do with my problem? i also have a problem with my amp over heating and turning off and i can't figure out whats wrong, any ideas? thanks again
__________________ By: Wido , Let me hear your pointless drivle. (\__/) (O.o ) This is Bunny. Copy Bunny into your signature to help (> < ) him on his way to world domination! ~Later~ |
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| | #9 |
| Doc Brown says Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Langley BC Age: 33
Posts: 210
iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 04 Civic LX Coupe...(it's Blue)
Rep Power: 16 | Yes, I think the rust is definitely a good starting point for troubleshooting. You see, the path of current in a vehicle is FROM the NEG. TO the POS. .... alot of people think it's the other way around.... and therefore, your system will only be as good as your grounds.... this goes for engine performance too! Upgrade your battery grounds, and redo the grounds on your gear.... Clean, Bare metal is best with a star washer under the ring terminal. As far as the amp turning off, it could be a lot of things simply because there's more than one peice of equipment in your electrical "line of supply" Try un hooking your subwoofer leads from the amp... if it still does it, unplug the RCA's, if it still does it then go buy a new amp orrrrrrrrr...... beat up the dickhead that sold you a bad one. If the problem stops after you unplug RCA leads then chances are you got a pinched wire...... that just reminds me.... check your entire length of wires: Check: Power wire Rem. wire RCA's There could be a pinch in the wire from something or any of them could be grounding out. if you inspect all your wires and nothing's pinched, bent, kinked or grounding out, then unscrew your subs, being careful not to "port" the rubber surround on the woofer Check the subs. If you have access to a Digital Multimeter that has a continuity setting on it do that test on the woofer by spring-clipping the red lead to your pos terminal of the woofer and the black lead to the neg terminal ..... Now place the meter where you can read the display while you move the cone in and out thru its travel. When doing this you want to make sure that you're not exerting extra force in any one direction. You can avoid this by positioning your hand as if you were going to palm a basketball, now place said hand over the cone of the woofer and press down with your fingertips. You can aslo go from opposing sides of the woofer and move the cone in and out. What this test will tell you is if there's any breaks in the voice coil. They'll usually show up more prominently on the ends or middle of either an outward or inward travel. As well, as this test you can test the resistance of the woofer(Ohm). Should read somewheres between 3.7 and 4.2 Ohms for a 4Ohm Single Voice Coil wooferif you get a reall y high or low reading then there's a good to great chance that you're in the market for some new gear Dunno about you but that's kinda like Christmas for me Damn!.....I blowed it up!.....................Cool!.... I get to get new stuff! Lemme know if you got the issue nailed. For me it's always something "simple-stupid"... It's either simple or it's stupid. And then you laugh about it while you turn up the tunes and enjoy your new hearing damage devices |
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| | #10 | |
| rip jr Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: west covina Age: 18
Posts: 4
iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: welll....
Rep Power: 0 | Quote:
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