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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: cedar rapids, iowa
Age: 20
Posts: 81
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 91 civic 4dr SOHC
Rep Power: 6
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I have a b18a1 in my 91 4dr. Its throwing code for injectors (16). Before it was for fuel system supply (43). When you turn the car on it sounds like a Subaru and it revs out at 3000rpm. When you give it gas it just BLOWS white smoke and sprays gas. Its like the gas is just straight blow by. Sometimes at the downpipe flange it will blow a gas/oil mixture from there. but its not loosing much oil its just burning it. So the car is running extremely rich. Like i said, i messed with the fuel system and that code is gone. I didnt have an extra set of b18 injectors but i used d16a6 which are the same ones. The only thing i havnt changed is the resistor box. Can that be the cause since that is part of the injectors?
any help will be great thanks -Carl- __________________
streetpsi.net |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: York, Pa
Age: 26
Posts: 652
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 97 del sol si turbo / dd is a 95 eclipse gsx
Rep Power: 16
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I'm not 100% sure but obd0 injectors are saturated, obd1&obd2 are peak and hold, what is obd is the motor? I dont think you need to have the resistor box wired in its sending the wrong ohmage to the injectors and is probably causing the injectors to say open all the time.
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#3 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: cedar rapids, iowa
Age: 20
Posts: 81
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 91 civic 4dr SOHC
Rep Power: 6
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Its OBD0 everything has ran fine before, the swap wasnt just done. This problem just started occuring and im at a loss on what it could be.
-Carl- __________________
streetpsi.net |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: York, Pa
Age: 26
Posts: 652
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 97 del sol si turbo / dd is a 95 eclipse gsx
Rep Power: 16
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sounds like your injectors are staying open the whole time, check the votage coming out of the resister box and see if its in manufactures specs.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: cedar rapids, iowa
Age: 20
Posts: 81
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 91 civic 4dr SOHC
Rep Power: 6
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How exactly do i check the voltage on the resistor box? I have a voltage meter... Also, have any idea what the specs are on the resistor box? thanks, i have a STRONG feeling it is the resistor box. Trouble shooting is the key to all problems i guess
-Carl- __________________
streetpsi.net |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: York, Pa
Age: 26
Posts: 652
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 97 del sol si turbo / dd is a 95 eclipse gsx
Rep Power: 16
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im not really sure of the votage but I think its between 10-12 ohms, to test it unclip one injector clip and touch the leads on the clip
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#8 |
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you get the BRAKE
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Ohm's are measurements of resistance, not voltage.
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#9 | |||
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I'll be back...
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rancho Cucamonga - UTI
Age: 26
Posts: 5,072
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 06 Mazda 5, 91 Civic DX
Rep Power: 156
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Quote:
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__________________
Real Eyes Realize Real Lies |
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#10 |
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you get the BRAKE
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If your reffering to "oem" injectors, than b16 is 100% correct. BUT, they do offer peak and hold for obd1/2 cars (aftermarket), but this is not neccessary unless your running much larger injectors, usually for big boost applications.
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#11 |
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you get the BRAKE
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There is some food for thought.
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#12 |
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I'll be back...
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rancho Cucamonga - UTI
Age: 26
Posts: 5,072
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 06 Mazda 5, 91 Civic DX
Rep Power: 156
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Come on, don't act like a noob and get all technical with it lol... read the OP's first post, he's obviously not talking about after market injectors...
__________________
Real Eyes Realize Real Lies |
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#13 |
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you get the BRAKE
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I'm a technical kinda guy, what can I say?
Now, he did say it was running fine prior, the problem just started happening. __________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#14 |
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I'll be back...
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rancho Cucamonga - UTI
Age: 26
Posts: 5,072
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 06 Mazda 5, 91 Civic DX
Rep Power: 156
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What he said didn't make any sense lol... 'it was running fine before but the swap just wasn't done'... I don't see how a car can run fine with an incomplete swap lol...
__________________
Real Eyes Realize Real Lies |
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#15 |
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you get the BRAKE
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Carl, off the top of my head, I would take a good look at the intake manifold and the fuel lines after the filter, all the way to the fuel return on the opposite side of the firewall. Also check your fuel pressure regulator, and your throttle body/cable. Thats a start. As far as loud "subaru" noise, you probably have a leak down by the collector, and if your burning oil, it will definately come out of that leak. Most likely pistons rings are bad, which is causing the oil to burn through the exhaust.
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#16 |
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you get the BRAKE
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I understand, but its clearly obvious that something wasnt done correctly during the swap, and now whatever it was has "given up", so to speak, and is causing problems. If he has a leak in the exhaust, depending on how close it is to the oxygen sensor, it can and will throw a code. Which code, I do not know. Im mostly obd1/2 kinda guy, not obd0 but its all fairly the same in a technical aspect.
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#17 | |
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I'll be back...
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rancho Cucamonga - UTI
Age: 26
Posts: 5,072
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 06 Mazda 5, 91 Civic DX
Rep Power: 156
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Quote:
__________________
Real Eyes Realize Real Lies |
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#18 |
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you get the BRAKE
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I agree with you here. Maybe he mis-counted? With obd0, if I am mistaken please correct me, but you have to count the blinks of the cel? Or is there a light on the ecu?
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#19 |
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you get the BRAKE
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Let me check alldata real quick and see if I can find anything...
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#20 |
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you get the BRAKE
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The only thing I can relate to a code 43, is a code 4-1 to 4-8, which is in relation to the speed sensor. If this code does show, than it will put the ecm (ecu) into a fail safe function. Other than that, I need to see the car in person to diagnose it.
__________________
eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold |
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#21 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: cedar rapids, iowa
Age: 20
Posts: 81
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 91 civic 4dr SOHC
Rep Power: 6
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Okay, i may have confused a few people. Ill start over lol. Ive had this motor in my car for about 6 months. About 2 weeks ago i removed the head and intake. I changed every gasket from the head gasket up. EVERYTHING. I put everything back together and it ran fine. Hardest it has ever ran. About a week ago, the car started to act weird after it would warm up. It would go into "save-mode", sound like a subaru and throw code 43 (fuel system supply) i found this out by checking the light on the ecu. 4 solid red lights, 3 blinks...43 so i mess with everthin that deals with fuel system. Then 43 was gone and now it is 16 (injectors). So i changed the injectors and the resistor box. Same thing, 16 and subaru. Its blows white smoke like crazy. I did a compression test last night. cyl. 1= 180, cyl 2= 150, cyl 3= 180, cyl 4= 180. That right there shows something else is wrong. So i took the head off and the 2 exaust valves are ugly but dont look burnt. I have a feeling that when i remove the valves those 2 are going to be bad on the top of the valves. Like they were stuck open. the antifreeze dindt have oil in it and there was a good amount of oil in the pan. Keep in mind, i just redid a lot of stuff 2 weeks ago. I just took a spare head i had to a local machin shop to get it shaved and a nice p-n-p. Im pretty sure i found the problem with the valves. If im wrong, let me know. Im doin project bottem in that is almost done. good thing this isnt my dd or id be fucked. thanks for everyones help, get back to me.
-Carl- __________________
streetpsi.net Last edited by efcivic4dr; 05-03-2008 at 06:29 PM. |
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