shadycrx89

im swaping a d16y8 to my 89 crx si and want to keep it obd0

i kno i have to swap the obd0 distributor to the y8 engine to make it obd-0, but will i also have to swap the obd-0 manifold or just the obd-0 injectors? to the new manifold.

please help!

AHHVTEC

are you gonna run the motor as a non vtec

munchies91crx

what your trying to do is close to impossible. trust me, im in the process of converting it to obd1 because it wouldnt work obd0.

matadam1

im going to be doing the same thing. now if i put that y8 head on my y7 motor cant i just buy a vtec controller from msd so that i can control when vtec works? would i have to change the water pump or timebelt? and would my throttle body and injectors work on it?

munchies91crx

if your motor is vtec, obd1 then you must have a obd1 ecu and wiring harness, if not your motor will not run. please understand this. if you will also need a p28 ecu. because it is the ecu the motor was ment for, it has the right timing marks and fuel. please just do yourself a favor and convert. obd1 is tons better

matadam1

will i have to use the distributor from the y8?

reikoshea

isnt the y8 obd2?

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munchies91crx

i believe both the y8 and z6 are both obd1, but i might be wrong.

AHHVTEC

rolf, the d16y8 is obd2

Manny 77

you need to use your DPFI engine harness and make the MPFI wiring changes to it - the changes include adding the wiring for the injectors to the harness, adding injector wiring from the ECU and adding the wiring for the cylinder sensor at the distributor

ECU WIRING CHANGES
1. You will need a couple of 'B' or 'C' ECU connector wiring pins with short piece of wire for adding wiring to the ECU.
2. The following changes need to be made to your original DPFI chassis harness where it plugged into the ECU.
3. De-pin the Orange wire at ECU pin C1 and re-pin it to ECU pin B10, which should be empty.
4. De-pin the White wire at ECU pin C2 and re-pin it to ECU pin B12, which should be empty. If there is a wire at B12, just de-pin it and leave it.
5. Cut the Yellow wire at ECU pin A3 and leave a short piece of wire on the ECU connector. Leave the wire still in the harness not connected to anything. Splice a new wire to the short piece of wire remaining in the ECU connector. This wire needs to be long enough to be routed with the harness out to the engine bay and reach the injectors. Label this wire A3.
6. Cut the Red wire at ECU pin A7 and leave a short piece of wire on the ECU connector. Leave the wire still in the harness not connected to anything. Splice a new wire to the short piece of wire remaining in the ECU connector. This wire needs to be long enough to be routed with the harness out to the engine bay and reach the injectors. Label this wire A7.
7. Using the pins with short piece of wire from Step 1 above, insert one pin into the 'C' connector at C1 and insert one pin into the 'C' connector at C2. Splice a new wire to each of these short wires and run them out to the engine bay to the distributor. Label the wires C1 and C2 respectively.
8. This completes the ECU wiring changes.

UNDER THE HOOD WIRING CHANGES
First, you are going to need to rob some connectors from the OBD1 engine harness. Specifically, they are the injector wiring, the distributor connector and the connector for the cooling fan switch.

INJECTOR WIRING
1. For the injector wiring, cut the tape and remove the black plastic wire looming and you will find that the injector wiring is a separate harness all to itself. This harness will need to be added to your DPFI engine harness as follows.
2. Each injector clip has two (2) wires going to it. The injectors are numbered the same as the cylinders, i.e. #1 closest to timing belt and #4 closest to the distributor. The injector clip for injector #1 has a Brown wire and a Red/Black wire, #2 has a Red wire and a Red/Black wire, #3 has a Light Blue wire and a Red/Black wire and #4 has a Yellow wire and a Red/Black wire.
3. Cut all of the wires close to the connector at the end of the injector harness opposite from the injectors.
4. On the DPFI harness, there are two (2) fuel injector connectors, one is a Brown connector with Red and Yellow/Black wires and the other is a Green connector with Yellow and Yellow/Black wires. Cut the wires for these connectors as close to the connectors as you can.
5. Find all four (4) of the Red/Black wires coming from the injector clips along with the two (2) Yellow/Black wires that went to the DPFI injectors and connect all six (6) of these wires together.
6. Connect the Yellow wire that went to the Green DPFI injector connector to the Brown wire at injector #1.
7. Connect the Red wire that went to the Brown DPFI injector connector to the Light Blue wire at injector #3.
8. Find the wire from the ECU labeled A3 and connect it to the Red wire at injector #2.
9. Find the wire from the ECU labeled A7 and connect it to the Yellow wire at injector #4.

IACV WIRING
1. The IACV connector on the DPFI engine harness is a Green connector with Blue/Yellow and Black/Yellow wires. You need to extend these wires, by cutting each and adding a short piece of wire, so that the connector will reach the IACV on the MPFI engine, which is on the back of the intake manifold.

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR WIRING
1. The TPS connector has three (3) wires, Yellow/White, Green/White and Red/Blue. You will also need to extend these wires so that the connector will reach the TPS on the MPFI throttle body. When you are extending these wires, switch the position of the Yellow/White and Green/White wires so that the Yellow/White from the harness is connected to the Green/White on the connector and the Green/White from the harness is connected to the Yellow/White on the connector. This is because the TPS on the MPFI rotates opposite from the TPS on the DPFI.

COOLING FAN SWITCH WIRING
1. The cooling fan switch on the OBD1 engine is located on the thermostat housing and is on the back of the block next to the oil filter on the OBD0 engine. You need to cut the wires at the OBD0 connector which has a big round black rubber boot on it. The wire colors are Yellow/Green and Black. Splice the connector that you robbed from the OBD1 harness onto these wires. Color doesn't matter, as it is just a switch to ground.

MAP SENSOR WIRING
1. The OBD0 car had the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall where the OBD1 engine has the MAP sensor on top of the throttle body. The MAP sensor connector is not on the OBD0 engine harness, but is on the chassis harness. You need to extend the three (3) wires for the MAP sensor connector so that it will reach the MAP on the throttle body.

OBD0 TO OBD1 ECU JUMPER HARNESS
1. If your jumper is for a VTEC engine, then the wiring should already be there. If not, you will need to run the necessary wires to the ECU.
2. If your jumper harness included the wiring for the 4-wire O2 sensor, you are good to go. If not, you will need to add wiring.

DISTRIBUTOR WIRING
1. If you purchased an OBD0 to OBD1 distributor jumper, you are good to go. If not, you will need to splice the connector from the OBD1 engine harness onto the DPFI engine harness.
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AHHVTEC

now thats some fancy copy and paste right there