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LS_VTEC · 03-09-2008, 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by orangemanja

i tried just starting it just to see it must not be the alternator
it makes that ah ah ah ah ah type sound when you try to start it not the tic sound when the battery is dead

The clicking sound you hear is your starter. Just because it is working doesn't mean it is working at the proper rate for it to turn the engine over. If it is a fuel issue, try spraying 2+2 into the throttle body when the engine is off. Move the butteryfly on the throttlebody open and closed while spraying a good amount in. Than put your intake pipe/tubing back on and try starting it again. IF it starts and then shuts down shortly after it is a fuel issue. Other than that it would have to be brought to a shop and be diagnosed as a no-start.

BseriesBeast · 03-09-2008, 08:20 PM

Alternator man.. test the battery. Its free at autozone or advance autoparts. But def sounds like an alternator prob..

If it was battery it prob wouldnt have started to begin with. The alternator is draining the battery so dont go buy another battery, It'll just die again.

fixngo · 03-10-2008, 12:37 AM

open one end from the fuel filter, turn key on to see if gas is being pumped.

fixngo · 03-10-2008, 12:44 AM

if the starter cranks strong and doesnt start, then its not the starter, but also not the battery because alot of power from batter, so no alternator issues. Its probably a fuel problem, or bad injector signal, someone could of put sugar in your gas tank? head gasket could of blew and flooded some cylinders

fixngo · 03-10-2008, 12:45 AM

drain some oil and see if theres water or coolant in your oil pan

orangemanja · 03-10-2008, 12:38 PM

the car does have fuel at the injectors
and power to the injectors
im flat broke and about to move i dont have a timing gun on hand
and no money to take it to a shop
can anybody think of anything else i can check
its looking like im going to have to put the car on ebay for sale

D15Beater · 03-10-2008, 02:45 PM

Have you checked for spark yet?? Stick a screwdriver in the end of a plug and ground it. Have someone turn it over and see if the plug wires are firing. You need to get a good charge first though. Jump the car off and leave the cables connected while you do this.

orangemanja · 03-10-2008, 08:43 PM

i just ordered a new distributor i think it might be the ignition module in the distributor that went bad

iv checked everything else
fuel at fuel filter and injectors
checked spark
check main relay solder
fuel pump works
timing belt is good
had no major problems when the engine died and it was just rebuilt so nothing major should have happend
i gave the starter a few hits incase it was demagnitized
there is gas and new oil
new battery
altornator tests fine

ill let you guys know in a few days when i get the distributor if that fixes it
advanced auto told me a new distributor costs $400.00 thats a damn rip off
i ordered a brand new one for $158

Aleaf.CRX · 03-10-2008, 08:45 PM

Yeah, I had the same exact problem with my car and it was the dizzy. Good luck!

LS_VTEC · 03-10-2008, 10:20 PM

A lot of people misunderstand how the battery actually functions. You can have a car battery put out 12.4v not running and they think it is good. If your battery does not have enough amperage available it will not start the engine. If extremely low it will not even turn the starter. I would take the battery to an AutoZone or the such and have them use their battery tester on it. They usually test them by their CCA rating (cold cranking amperage). If it is lower than specified than you will need to charge the battery which is something they can do for you. This is just basic checks but can be misunderstood by many.

LS_VTEC · 03-10-2008, 10:21 PM

If you take it to a shop they can perform many diagnostic tests for one hours worth of labor time. I say go for it since your time in limited.

1) Battery output test
2) Alternator output test
3) Starting system test

...just to name a few.

fixngo · 03-12-2008, 11:26 PM

HEAD GASKET BLEW, COOLANT IN CYLINDERS, drain oil and check for water, or check radiator for oil

92cx87 · 03-13-2008, 09:36 AM

did you check to see if you have spark at the plug...if you dont have spark pull of the distributor cap then the two wires on top of the coil . put a test light between these two wires and crank the motor over..if the test light lights up it is the coil if not it is the ignitor

92cx87 · 03-13-2008, 09:38 AM

you didnt have to order a new dizzy the ignitor and coil are both replaceable parts..whered you get that dizzy from for $158?

fixngo · 03-13-2008, 08:45 PM

how did it die out,was the car overheating,

boostaddict · 03-15-2008, 09:04 AM

if the ignitor is bad youll still have spark at the plugs most times but the problem is that its weak thus brown spark, and its intermittant, take all spark plugs out of the engine put them in the wires and make sure that the plugs are touching ground on the engine and roll it over. watch the plugs and put your hands over the spark plug holes and you should feel a burst of air at the same time as the spark , if somethings messed the spark will fire at the wrong time or not at all. or it will skip a cylinder here and there. if that happend take the cap of the distributor and look at the ignitor, it will prolly be all white and cracked.

sohcslammer · 03-15-2008, 05:40 PM

Hydrolock?

LS_VTEC · 03-15-2008, 10:20 PM

Wow... I think he just needs a new battery. LOL.

HondaElite · 03-15-2008, 10:44 PM

dude the same hting happened to me no more than a month ago..i changed cap rotor..wires plugs..it ened up bein the ignition coil in the dizzy..its like 50$ guarentee youll be all set after that

civic_nizmo · 03-16-2008, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D15Beater

Ignitor in the distributor, would be my first thought if its not firing. I had a car a month ago, the owner had siminlar problems, they replaced the main relay and thought they had fixed it. It started because the car had sat. as soon as it ran for a bit it cut off again. We replaced the distributor and no problems since. A main relay pronlem will in most cases prevent the car from starting. This happens when they get old and the solder joints inside them crack and break the connections going through them.

agreed..had that happen in my sol and my lx..otherwise check your MAP sensor, i also had a bad one and it wouldnt alwayz start.

kevinbout · 03-17-2008, 07:33 AM

Ignition coil. Happened to me a few weeks ago.

orangemanja · 03-17-2008, 07:41 PM

all right guys got the brand new distributer put it on and still no start
and ls vtec i took the battery to advanced charged and tested fine
im compleatly stumped and am moving at the end of the month and am completly out of money and cant borrow any more
so im going to put it on ebay
id hate to do it but i dont have much more choice
thanks for yalls input

if anyone wants to buy it or knows someone by chance its a
1999 honda civic ex turbo b16 swap 5speed with about 60,000 miles
clear title
just rebuilt
about $10,000 to $16,000 invested
many aftermarket parts
new body kit and fenders
17 inch white icw rims with toyo proxy low pros ($850) for tires with about 5,000 miles on tires
skunk 2 controll arms
integra gsr computer
speerco intercooler
tenzo r coilovers
garret turbo
turbo xs bov
deltagate wastegate
rear camper kit
aem pullys
aem fuel rail
walbro racing fuel pump
drag turbo manifold
dc sports titanium twin canister exhaust
magnaflo high flo cat
aftermarket camshaft
many more

03-10-2008, 10:20 PM	#35
LS_VTEC Posts: 2,616	A lot of people misunderstand how the battery actually functions. You can have a car battery put out 12.4v not running and they think it is good. If your battery does not have enough amperage available it will not start the engine. If extremely low it will not even turn the starter. I would take the battery to an AutoZone or the such and have them use their battery tester on it. They usually test them by their CCA rating (cold cranking amperage). If it is lower than specified than you will need to charge the battery which is something they can do for you. This is just basic checks but can be misunderstood by many. __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1994 eg6. fully built K20A all motor. 304whp. http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

03-09-2008, 08:20 PM	#27
BseriesBeast Posts: 77	Alternator man.. test the battery. Its free at autozone or advance autoparts. But def sounds like an alternator prob.. If it was battery it prob wouldnt have started to begin with. The alternator is draining the battery so dont go buy another battery, It'll just die again.

03-10-2008, 12:37 AM	#28
fixngo Posts: 75	open one end from the fuel filter, turn key on to see if gas is being pumped.

03-10-2008, 12:44 AM	#29
fixngo Posts: 75	if the starter cranks strong and doesnt start, then its not the starter, but also not the battery because alot of power from batter, so no alternator issues. Its probably a fuel problem, or bad injector signal, someone could of put sugar in your gas tank? head gasket could of blew and flooded some cylinders

03-10-2008, 12:45 AM	#30
fixngo Posts: 75	drain some oil and see if theres water or coolant in your oil pan

03-10-2008, 12:38 PM	#31
orangemanja Posts: 51	the car does have fuel at the injectors and power to the injectors im flat broke and about to move i dont have a timing gun on hand and no money to take it to a shop can anybody think of anything else i can check its looking like im going to have to put the car on ebay for sale

03-10-2008, 02:45 PM	#32
D15Beater Posts: 551	Have you checked for spark yet?? Stick a screwdriver in the end of a plug and ground it. Have someone turn it over and see if the plug wires are firing. You need to get a good charge first though. Jump the car off and leave the cables connected while you do this.

03-10-2008, 08:43 PM	#33
orangemanja Posts: 51	i just ordered a new distributor i think it might be the ignition module in the distributor that went bad iv checked everything else fuel at fuel filter and injectors checked spark check main relay solder fuel pump works timing belt is good had no major problems when the engine died and it was just rebuilt so nothing major should have happend i gave the starter a few hits incase it was demagnitized there is gas and new oil new battery altornator tests fine ill let you guys know in a few days when i get the distributor if that fixes it advanced auto told me a new distributor costs $400.00 thats a damn rip off i ordered a brand new one for $158

03-10-2008, 08:45 PM	#34
Aleaf.CRX Posts: 2,025	Yeah, I had the same exact problem with my car and it was the dizzy. Good luck!

03-10-2008, 10:21 PM	#36
LS_VTEC Posts: 2,616	If you take it to a shop they can perform many diagnostic tests for one hours worth of labor time. I say go for it since your time in limited. 1) Battery output test 2) Alternator output test 3) Starting system test ...just to name a few.

03-12-2008, 11:26 PM	#37
fixngo Posts: 75	HEAD GASKET BLEW, COOLANT IN CYLINDERS, drain oil and check for water, or check radiator for oil

03-15-2008, 05:40 PM	#42
sohcslammer Posts: 2,193	Hydrolock?

03-13-2008, 09:36 AM	#38
92cx87 Posts: 2	did you check to see if you have spark at the plug...if you dont have spark pull of the distributor cap then the two wires on top of the coil . put a test light between these two wires and crank the motor over..if the test light lights up it is the coil if not it is the ignitor

03-13-2008, 09:38 AM	#39
92cx87 Posts: 2	you didnt have to order a new dizzy the ignitor and coil are both replaceable parts..whered you get that dizzy from for $158?

03-13-2008, 08:45 PM	#40
fixngo Posts: 75	how did it die out,was the car overheating,

03-15-2008, 09:04 AM	#41
boostaddict Posts: 8	if the ignitor is bad youll still have spark at the plugs most times but the problem is that its weak thus brown spark, and its intermittant, take all spark plugs out of the engine put them in the wires and make sure that the plugs are touching ground on the engine and roll it over. watch the plugs and put your hands over the spark plug holes and you should feel a burst of air at the same time as the spark , if somethings messed the spark will fire at the wrong time or not at all. or it will skip a cylinder here and there. if that happend take the cap of the distributor and look at the ignitor, it will prolly be all white and cracked.

03-15-2008, 10:20 PM	#43
LS_VTEC Posts: 2,616	Wow... I think he just needs a new battery. LOL.

03-15-2008, 10:44 PM	#44
HondaElite Posts: 135	dude the same hting happened to me no more than a month ago..i changed cap rotor..wires plugs..it ened up bein the ignition coil in the dizzy..its like 50$ guarentee youll be all set after that

03-17-2008, 07:33 AM	#46
kevinbout Posts: 48	Ignition coil. Happened to me a few weeks ago.

03-17-2008, 07:41 PM	#47
orangemanja Posts: 51	all right guys got the brand new distributer put it on and still no start and ls vtec i took the battery to advanced charged and tested fine im compleatly stumped and am moving at the end of the month and am completly out of money and cant borrow any more so im going to put it on ebay id hate to do it but i dont have much more choice thanks for yalls input if anyone wants to buy it or knows someone by chance its a 1999 honda civic ex turbo b16 swap 5speed with about 60,000 miles clear title just rebuilt about $10,000 to $16,000 invested many aftermarket parts new body kit and fenders 17 inch white icw rims with toyo proxy low pros ($850) for tires with about 5,000 miles on tires skunk 2 controll arms integra gsr computer speerco intercooler tenzo r coilovers garret turbo turbo xs bov deltagate wastegate rear camper kit aem pullys aem fuel rail walbro racing fuel pump drag turbo manifold dc sports titanium twin canister exhaust magnaflo high flo cat aftermarket camshaft many more

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car shut off while driving and wont start back up what could cause this