d16z6 clutch install, a few Q's

so i finished my clutch install. everything went smooth and nothing was a pain in the ass. but, when i took the axles out some of the tranny oil came out. now after i put it back in it grinds everytime going into reverse and sometimes into normal gears. u think too much of the oil came out? it seems like if i ease it very slowly into reverse u can almost hear the synchro slowing down then catching the gear. what is the easiest way to add oil to the tranny and wat kind should it take and how much? i'd say 1/2 qt came out. also i never drove a 6 puck clutch before, its a sprung 6 puck. is there usually chatter? its like the clutch grabs a little bit then its kinda shaky when i let teh clutch out slow. the pedal pressure is fine i bled all the old clutch fluid out of the slave cylinder until fresh came out and there isn't any bubble in it neither. sorry to ask so many questions it just seems like a different car now. anyone had problems with LSDMotorsports clutches before?

ADDED: here is the link to the clutch i bought:

http://lsdmotorsports.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=LSD01&Ref=&Make=&Sub=&Prod=L200&Pname=LSD%20Clutch%20Kits&Product_Code=L200-R009S&Category_Code=L200-Honda&Car=AC,HO,SS

i need to know something! any i jsut took it for a spin down the road and the grinding is obsolete. however, when i would shift anything over 3.5k quickly and speed up, the clutch would seem like its slipping and the check engine light would come on. maybe the slave cylinder is bad? idk wat to say now. damnit i thought this was gonna be easy to do but now i cant drive it!!

ok will anyone give some kind of idea? i'm thinking maybe the slave is goin out and with the pp being harder to hold against the clutch than the oem clutch it is making it slip. the stock clutch used to slip sometimes. the pedal feels easier to push than the stock pressure plate was, thats why i'm leaning more towards the bad slave. someone chime in and help me please!

well i just went out in front of my house, pulled up the parking brake, revved to about 2k and dumped the clutch easily, it sat still and spun like a mofo. i left a pile of rubber lol. but when i shift fast/hard from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd or what not it seems like it hesitates to grab for a second(slips) then clamps down. i'm confused? maybe the rear main seal is bad? but nothing is leaking, fuck idk what the hell would make it slip... maybe i should just take it really easy till the thing is broke in? maybe that's what's making it slip?

ADDED: when i bled the clutch, i got a bottle of "clutch fluid" for manual transmissions, instead of dot3/4 fluid. idk if that would make a difference. and the shaft coming from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder isn't leakin so that's not it either.

CEL??? What was the code throwing?

Check trans fluid....unscrew fill hole (usually a 1/2" ratchet fit it)

If fluid comes out then it was full but if nothing...then fill it with a funnel and hose attached until it starts to come out and plug it back up (thats full)

If that isn't the problem then check the master and slave cylinder for leaking grease out of the piston portion.

Sadly, you may need to take the trans out and inspect the clutch for grease or something else that 'may have' made its way to the disc and is causing your slippage. Or the problem could be worse.

If the master and slave look sketchy then replace them

OEM cylinders are expensive but aftermarket is reasonable. (I figure technology of these cylinders are old enough that aftermarket will hold its own)

so would the low tranny fluid make the clutch slip? yeah nothing is on the clutch disc i know for sure. i washed my hands thoroughtly and took the clutch, to bearing and PP immediately out of the package and directly onto the motor. neither the mast or slave is leaking. on the piston that goes from the pedal thru the firewall there is a grey grease on the pistion but i think that's to lube the piston so it can go back and forth. how can i check the CEL without driving it to auto zone? i don't wanna tear anything up.

oh yeah i also wanted to add that when i bled the clutch i pumped it several times, held it to the floor then opened the bleeder, waited for bubbles to comes out then shut it back. at that point the pedal would stick to the floor and my wife would have to pull it up off of the floor. and yes she held it down till i shut the bleeder and told her to let off the pedal lol. should the pedal stick like that? when i bled my brakes the brake pedal didn't do it. man this shit sux lol.

the fluid isn't slippage but you spoke of grinding gears. Clutched aligned?

Could have something in there or something isn't installed right....or...?

Car is almost 15 years old.....check the place where the clutch pedal attached to the master cylinder rod...if its all greasy (like mine is..replacing it tomorrow) then replace it...check slave too. There cheap to replace and easier to do then a clutch. I would replace them and see what happens. It wont hurt and it'll work or eliminate them as a 'possible' problem.

throw out bearing OEM? Mine isn't and I wish I had done what I have done before but I'll be ripping it out in a few weeks.

Just have her pump that clutch even after you opened and closed it. She should start feeling pressure after pumping. Have her use her hand at first and foot when it gets firmer.

You have a clear tube on the bleeder so you can see when bubbles are gone? I usually do it about 5-10 times.

new clutch? tell me more about the clutch...6 puck....heavy duty pressure plate?

Any wear on the master cylinder under the dash?

CEL....take a paper clip or something and pull the clip under your dash (glove box) the smaller clip has two wires going to it. i believe its a tan and green wire going to it.

jump the two wires on the grey clip with a paper clip or piece of stripped wire. Not sure if the motor can be off or on (I have mine running)

CEL will flash so many times with long flash for ten's (10 20 30 etc) and short flash for ones (1 2 3 4 5 etc)

Like morris code Count them and look up the codes

-----CEL # List-----
1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor circuit
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
67 Cat Converter
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 EGR Valve/Line
86 ECT sensor - Cooling System
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor
92 EVAP Solenoid/Valve/Vacuum Lines

no the master has a grey lube type grease on it. its thick, not like brake fluid. the clutch is aligned perfect when i got the tranny lined back up the engine practically sucked it onto the dowels lol. the gear grinding went away after the first drive, it always grinded a tad bit going into reverse if i crank it, and immediately push the clutch in and throw it in reverse. yes the throw out is oem. as far as the clutch check out the link in my first post. its a lsd motorsport race pressure plate and 6 puck sprung clutch. the way u described the bleeding process is exactly how i bled it and i used a clear tube and a container so i could keep track of the old nasty fluid and the new stuff. and the clutch was brand new. i'm gonna go jump that connector and see what code it is. i'll let ya know as soon as i get done.

Weird situation...let me know about the code

the check engine light goes off after i stop driving turn it off, and wait a while. and i have like 6 cars behind me in my driveway so i can't go make the clutch slip and make it come back on. i guess tomorrow i'll pull it n see.

ok guys here's the scoop. the clutch isn't slipping anymore, it actually pulls like a mother. anyway, i jumped the jumper and it threw code 41, and after the CEL came on, it threw the same code. the srs light flashed continuously, followed by 4 long flashes on the cel, then a really short cel flash. the wires on my o2 sensor are almost frayed through, so thats probably whats wrong with it. i've noticed that my gas mileage went from 40+mpg to around 25mpg, but that's with me keepin in vtec ALOT lol. oh well i guess i can replace the o2 sensor and see if that fixes the funny idle after the cel came on and my gas mileage. after the cel came on, my idle would raise and lower from 1200 to 800 rpm and it was constant.

a normal wear in period for a new clutch is about 3-4k miles (or and oil change which ever)you know that right????
and 6 pucks normally kinda "hesitate" when first installed cuz it needs to "wear" a little.

yeah i figure it needed to wait a little before i let it rip. the first pull i had today when it hit vtec the tires broke loose LOL. on a single cam. but the road was a bit wet. anyway i guess i can drive it now knowing that i didn't do anything wrong. i always doubt my own work b/c i think somethings always wrong lol. i guess thats part of know alot about cars and how things are supposed to be u kinda knit-pick and think shit is not right even tho it is.

The fluctuating idle....that could be other stuff but I say your right about getting an O2. OEM is way expensive (my O2 is almost $250 from Honda)

Try to get a used one or buy one form a part store for about $60-90. If $250 for OEM sounds crazy (and it does to me) I would think about one from a recycler/junkyard

If idle still hunts like that then look at all idle sensors on and around throttle body (they can be checked and clean)

Glad the clutch is working better. I just put a new clutch master cylinder today and it made my clutch feel better

i got an o2 sensor for my del sol for $30 at advanced auto...

yeah i'm definitely gonna get a new o2 sensor, and the idle never did that till the cel came on for the o2 sensor, maybe with it not heating up properly its not reading correctly? im not sure. what sux is that when i get my ecu chipped and run my turbonetics kit i won't even be using a damn oem o2 sensor anyway, but i gonna try to see how it goes for right now and see if i can hold out. but yeah i'll eventually replace the master and slave that way i know nothing is wrong with them. i'll get them from a local o reiley's auto part, lifetime warranties ftw!!

Clutch master and slave is a good call. Go get another O2 from a recycler (especially you running a turbo later...and non-OEM...me no likey lol)