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This is a discussion on d16z6 valve lash in the Civic and del Sol - EG and EK forum
hey i did my valve lashing it was my first time doing it on my d16z6 i have a few questions to make sure i did it right 1) how do i know when cylinder1 is TDC. is the "up" on the cam gear pointing ...
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|04-15-2010, 10:38 PM||#1|
d16z6 valve lash
hey i did my valve lashing it was my first time doing it on my d16z6 i have a few questions to make sure i did it right
1) how do i know when cylinder1 is TDC. is the "up" on the cam gear pointing up for cylinder 1 and so on ?
2) is there suppose to be play in the rocker assembly or are they suppose to be kinda snug? when i did it i looked for a "slight drag" and when i took the feeler gauge out you can jiggle the arm
also i just thought of something else...i switched heads are you suppose to line the white line up with the sight on the timing belt cover then set the cam gear to TDC
i appreciate any help this is my first build so im learning go easy on me
|04-15-2010, 11:18 PM||#2|
honestly i never really start at TDC on the number one cylinder. i just start wherever when i pull the valve cover. i just rotate the engine till i'm 180 degrees an a particular cam lobe and check and set the valve lash. then i go on to the next. i mentally keep track of the cylinders and intake/exhaust sides in my head and do em all. takes like 5 minutes. yes i do this when the head is cold
|04-16-2010, 08:05 PM||#4|
You can start at TDC and do cylinder #1. The rockers will lift up and push down freely. Last weekend, I did mine (after changing cams and springs) on the tighter side of the specs and it came out too loud (like a fast ticking clock). But my B16 head is harder to set valve lash then yours b/c the top of the valve sits a lot lower in the head cast then yours (and my big hands in tight quarters sucks). I have been educating myself on this subject all week lol. Talked to a engine builder in town and he let me set his micrometer to a specific feeler gauge to feel the drag. I think my problem might be that I am binding the feeler gauge a little (at an angle) b/c the spot is so low inside the head.
But one thing the engine builder told me is that I should slightly turn the crank to make sure the rockers go to their highest point (up) so you are adjusting at that specific point. It will be a move of the crank by less then an inch. The theory is to get the cam lobes COMPLETELY off the rockers (largest point of the lobes facing front to back of car)
Move the cam gear so up is at 9 o'clock and repeat on cylinder #3. Then 90 more degrees (6 o'clock) for cylinder #4 and then 90 more for cylinder #2. At least that's how my B16 is done.
Hope my info helps you a little. I'm tackling the task tomorrow.
"Meow, you know how fast your were going back there?"
My Old B16 Swap (Spring '09) w/CTR cams/springs.
My EH3 with a K-swap
|04-17-2010, 01:06 AM||#5|
so after the valve lash are you suppose to be able to wiggle the arm up and down or is it suppose to be snug ive read a couple guides and one says "if it snaps when i remove the feeler gauge i have it tight enough" while others say to look for a slight drag any way to explain this drag a little better?
thanks for the help so far
|04-17-2010, 01:34 AM||#6|
|04-17-2010, 08:23 PM||#7|
Did mine today....Great Success! They sound much better. It needs to have some decent amount of drag. Dont let them bind but a nice consistent drag on the feeler gauge is the key. Stay on the tighter side of the tolerances too.
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