CAFROG

I am on my way to the recyclers today and need some extra info before I head there.

I am looking for OEM sway bar for my hatch.

I 'think' there's three rear sway bars for the Integra

LS....GSR...and Type R

I read (online) that the LS is the smallest diameter of them all

And I've been told (EG6SIR) that the type R needs an ASR brace to avoid tear out

So does the LS sway need the brace too? Since its smaller...
I would think it allows more flex

Please fill me in on any info that you may have on the subject

CAFROG

Do I need the Integra Lower Control Arms too?

Was told my fronts have the mounting holes but not the rear

CAFROG

Found help on another site

need Teg or 4-door 92-95 EX LCA's or aftermarket shiny stuff lol

GSR should work with no subframe brace b/c its 14mm...??

d-mon

what year?
92-95 rear lca's do not have mounting holes.
easiest is to get integra rear lca's.

CAFROG

The 4-door EX came with sways but they are small...

My Si does NOT have them

eg6sir

i could have sworn the SI had a rear sway bar..

and yea.. you'll only need teh subframe brace if you're going w/ a large bar like the ITR or other aftermarket.. GSR 14mm should be fine..

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CAFROG

Got a 14mm GSR sway and LCA's/hardware

I'm 'suppose to' have four threaded holes for the anchor for the sway (attaches to subframe)

I looked and I think I'm okay....if not, I can drill it out and put a nut on the other side.

My si does have front sway bar but thats it

CAFROG

A friend scared me a little when he told me that these little mods were going to put a considerable amount more strain on the bushings (guessing lower control arms)

If anyone wants to chime in...on a scale of 1-5 how much more strain will be applied after the rear sway and OEM integra front strut bar.?

eg6sir

lets put it this way.. its not gonna be that much strain because its basically a stock sway bar for those LCAs/bushings..

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d-mon

the mounting holes are in the subframe, but they are not threaded.
i used bolts flatwashers, lock washers, and nuts from Lowes. put them in while you have the lca's out.
3 years of canyon driving and no tears.

CAFROG

Thanks for letting me know its not threaded.

Guy at the recycler told me that if it wasn't threaded...to put nuts on the other side when the control arm is off....just like you said ^^

CAFROG

That little tie rod on the picture ^^ does that act 'somewhat' as a subframe brace?

Looks like it's off one those kits I spoke about in another thread I started

Cheap Suspension Waste of $$$ ???

eg6sir

i wouldnt use it as a subframe brace.. lol

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CAFROG

ha ha...yes I know just wondering if I need something for the GSR sway....everyone says it';; be fine but figure a rip out would total my car

eg6sir

you could always go with something like this.. not as bling as the ASR.. but it serves its purpose

Welcome to Beaks Products

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d-mon

not a subframe brace and yes, it's a cheap ebay part. it's a bar, hard (but not impossible) to f*ck up.
shocks and springs are a different story.
by itself, i wouldn't expect it to do much.
but with the bar across the top of the (rear) shock towers, it makes the body more rigid.
hardly a suspension part, though, it just attaches to body where the suspension does.

avoid the beaks if using a heavy bar:
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f27/...ks-kit-183381/
and unnecessary for stock sway bars.

CAFROG

So I have heard and seen some pics of subframe tear out....with that Beaks $70 kit

But it was obviously a much bigger sway then mine

Civic subframe tear out with beaks kit - Honda Forum / Acura Forum - SuperHonda.com

Its an old thread but it talks about tein, eibach, s-tech's and other "soft" springs make this happen easier then stiffer springs.

Does anyone know if Neuspeed race springs are considered soft or stiff? I have never had other springs in my hatch

eg6sir

Neuspeed race springs should be pretty stiff.. never driven on them though

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d-mon

AMAZING
you just posted the same link i did?????
look at it this way:
the sway bar acts like a 'helper' spring. (in that it adds resistance to the travel of the LCAs). the softer the springs, the more 'work' the sway bar has to do. it transfers the energy of the rolling body (sway) to the thin sheet metal the of the subframe via the 'D' clamps.
the less the sway bar 'gives' (this is determined by the thickness of the sway bar), the more energy is transfered to the thin sheet metal subframe.
look at the pics in the link that i (and you) posted.
the subframe is completely torn. yet where the LCA mounts is still intact.
the beaks kit does not address the subframe weakness issue.
the asr subframe brace mounts where the LCAs mount to the body/frame/subframe etc.
just about any aftermarket lowering spring is stiffer than stock. (cheapo ebay springs may or may not be. roll the dice if you feel lucky)
3rd gen integras have been rolling around on stock sway bars without blinging subframe braces for 15 years with no issues.
my civic has 3+ years of obnoxious canyon driving on integra sway bar direct to subframe without issues.

cliffs:
big sway bar 19+mm = get an asr type brace and mount it correctly
integra sway bar = bolts right up
soft springs = teh suxors in any setup

CAFROG

I wish I could see a ASR brace in person. Is it like flat stock or does is have contours?

If its flat....I'm gonna make one tomorrow out of mild steel (yes its heavier but it'll give me more down-force lmao)

eg6sir

you could make your own.. just make a template from some cardboard first

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eg6sir

found this for ya.. .gives you the measurements you'll need

EG-Rear SubFrame Brace - Tie-Bar!! DIY - Honda Forum / Acura Forum - SuperHonda.com

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CAFROG

Nice! Thanks. I am going to see about some aluminum and talk to a guy that has a axis machine to cut that template. If he can do aluminum and if I want to spend how much the piece is.....

eg6sir

if you get it done LMK how it turns out.. might make one for myself.. my buddies dad works in a machine shop.. he made some custom brackets out of aluminum for my buddies snowboard and bindings because the bolt pattern was different

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CAFROG

I think the best way is to have the program he uses
(if its a 3-axis machining tool) But he seems to use
lathes and such.

I need to see a picture of the back. If you look at the side view given...
the recessed lines confuse me. If its just plain flat stock with a 1/2" slug
that's pretty easy to make (like you said) with cardboard. Then the trick
would be to get a cheap piece of T-6061 that is at least a 1/2" thick and
almost 3ft long.

I don't think a 3-Axis machine shop can really touch it and make it a
cheaper alternative to the ASR bar. Make a hundred of them....then
you'll see the potential....but then you got to sell a whole lot of them
I am going to search...again for more pics on the ASR bar. I need a
picture of the back to see if its flat and all that is needed is a slug