newdelsolowner

I am a proud new owner of a 95 Del Sol. I could really use some help!

Check her out here:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2412293/1

I just bought a 95 Del Sol with the DOHC VTEC for my daily driver(for
$6300 @ dealer). It has DC Headers, Exhaust, DC Intake, Cam Gears,
Fields VTEC Controller/SFC, billet 'braces' on shock towers and under
the car... thats it for mods I can 'see'. Car has 70K miles.

Headin to the dyno on Monday as I do not trust 'tuning' with Autometer
A/F gauges!, have a few questions.

1. Why is there an 'auxiliary' oil filter in the engine bay? Because
the stock one is so hard to get to?
2. What RPMs should I set the VTEC to engage that will cause the best
acceleration?
3. What is a good A/F to tell my tuner to shoot for on this motor? I
drive 120miles every day, 12.5 down low? 13 up top(@VTEC and up)?
4. How much power should I expect from this motor? 135WHP?
5. Please explain the procedure for 'bleeding the clutch', clutch fluid
was dry when I bought. Just like brakes?
6. I just looked closely at the 'Cam Gears' which are visible, the rear one is set to the '4th tick'(I would read as 4 or 8 degrees advanced, since the gears say 'each mark = 2 crank degrees') the front one is set to 1st tick counter clockwise from 0. This looks like bad news to me... How do I correct this? I'm thinking I'll just ask the tuner to fix. They should both be '=' right? I would think having the cams 5-10 degrees off would be very bad? What is the recommended 'timing' the cams should be set for?

Calesta

Welcome to HondaSwap!

It's definitely not a good idea to "tune" with the Autometer a/f gauge. It's not a wideband, at least not in stock form.

1. Can you show a picture? There's only one filter in the OEM configuration.

2. Depends on your dyno results- go for the smoothest transition between VTEC and off VTEC. You want to minimize the "kick" when VTEC engages- that way you get the most power under the curve.

3. Other way around. Your partial throttle can run as close to 14.7 as you want, and once you get to 50% - 80% throttle you probably want to shoot for mid 13s, and 81%+ you should probably go with 12.5 or lower.

4. You should make 140whp in stock form. With intake/header/exhaust/gears and a good tune, you could get 160whp on a B16A, more on a B18C.

5. Pretty much. Work the pedal in and out until you don't see any more bubbles and it moves smoothly, and make sure the reservoir is always full.

6. Depends on tuning. Don't arbitrarily change the cam timing. No they don't have to match. A competent tuner will know how to tune cam timing. It's not something you can just decide on and set without some trial and error on the dyno.

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newdelsolowner

Thanks! I couldn't figure out my fuel management unit, so she ran rich at 6.5K...

Dynographs attached, 133WHP SAE

@5800 ft above sea level
@80+ degrees
@30% humidity

Attached Thumbnails

     

Calesta

That's not a bad dyno chart at all! Looks like your VTEC needs to be moved out to about 5700rpm, based on your current power curves. You could stand to level out your a/f ratio curve a bit too.

__________________
DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums!
Intercrew Auto Salon - (972) 485-8688

newdelsolowner

Will do thx. I'm playing with the Fuel now. My tuner showed me where my A/F gauge reads compared to his and it can definately be used for some leveling out... then I'll head back in for another few pulls.

Calesta

Good luck! Just take your time and don't blow your engine up.

__________________
DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums!
Intercrew Auto Salon - (972) 485-8688