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How to make power in my b18 c type R ???

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Old 07-13-2007, 10:37 AM   #1
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Question How to make power in my b18 c type R ???

I was just wondering the best ways to make good power in a b18c type R
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:02 AM   #2
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Press the pedal to the far right.
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:05 AM   #3
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funny, i was thinking a cam or throtle body or both, or a piston package... theres tons of stuff to do , im not sure about hp gains , and band for the buck
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:49 PM   #4
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Press the pedal to the far right.
DUDE! I am SO gonna try that in my car sometime...
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:59 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by SunShine00 View Post
I was just wondering the best ways to make good power in a b18c type R

Start with a good tune up, its helps. This would include everything from a set of plugs to wires to ground wires, fuel filter, adjustable fuel regulator, New dizzy cap and rotor. Adjust your clutch....bleed it. Adjust your throttle cable, make sure your motor mounts arent broke, crack, or brittle. Have your injectors cleaned. Run fuel tank cleaner(seafoam works good) through you gas tank....its almost garanteed to clog you filter so do it before you put a new one on. Change your o2 sensor...alot of ppl overlook that. Then start with header, intake, exhaust, high flow cat, throttle body, remember that FPR you put on the tune up? youll need it when you start throwing more air in the engine. Get a fuel pressure gauge...youll want,need one. Now you can add cams, and bigger power adders. Learn how to read your spark plugs. Have fun.

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Old 07-13-2007, 06:51 PM   #6
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you dont need an fpr
get a p28 and tune on dyno

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Start with a good tune up, its helps. This would include everything from a set of plugs to wires to ground wires, fuel filter, New dizzy cap and rotor. Adjust your clutch....bleed it. Adjust your throttle cable, make sure your motor mounts arent broke, crack, or brittle. Have your injectors cleaned. Run fuel tank cleaner(seafoam works good) through you gas tank....its almost garanteed to clog you filter so do it before you put a new one on. Then start with header, intake, exhaust, high flow cat, throttle body, Get a fuel pressure gauge...

fixed
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Old 07-13-2007, 08:50 PM   #7
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you dont need an fpr
get a p28 and tune on dyno




fixed
first thanks for the help

and what kind of gains can i expect from a p28 computer and dyno tuning ?
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Old 07-14-2007, 09:28 AM   #8
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not just more hp/tq, you get more mpg, smoother idle, vtec engagement and rev.

i would say betweem 2-10 hp and 1-7 tq gain
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:10 PM   #9
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you dont need an fpr
get a p28 and tune on dyno

unless your going to waste a lot of money every time you add a part, a fpr is a great idea. dyno tuning is to expensive to do every time you add a part. you can use the fpr to adjust between tunes, saving alot of money.

also a p28 is not a cure all. the computer that was designed for you engine is what you should use for 2 reasons. 1 its illegal in most states to run anything but a matched cumputer. 2 the best way to tune most imports is with independant managment systems(hondata,chrome,etc). these will work just as good on your computer as it will on a p28. use the money you would waste on a p28 and put it to a ims.

do some research , not being a dick but i hate seing people waste money because the listened to a cookie cutter answer.
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:59 PM   #10
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sure man, sure.

any way



you can get a good deal on here on all tuning equipment

Welcome to www.moates.net! : Moates.Net

and get crome here free [pro is additional and it almost tunes your car on its own]
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i would go to dyno when you install most of the important stuff [cams, header, exhaust].if you stay NA you dont need to dyno more than once.

a FPR only controls how rich or lean you are not ignition timing, fuel maps and injector size and all that good stuff... it is useless like a FMU
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Old 07-14-2007, 03:44 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by formby View Post
sure man, sure.

any way



you can get a good deal on here on all tuning equipment

Welcome to www.moates.net! : Moates.Net

and get crome here free [pro is additional and it almost tunes your car on its own]
< C R O M E >

i would go to dyno when you install most of the important stuff [cams, header, exhaust].if you stay NA you dont need to dyno more than once.

a FPR only controls how rich or lean you are not ignition timing, fuel maps and injector size and all that good stuff... it is useless like a FMU
+1..

i hate when we get idiot n00bs who think they know what they're talking about
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Old 07-14-2007, 04:08 PM   #12
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im a noob to this sight not to cars. any computer controlled car must be adjusted after any mod.(cai,cam,exhaust ,ect). the only way to get by doing it once is to do put everything together at once, and never modify the setup again. every time you add something and dont tune you leave hp behind. fpr and adj cam gears help you to get more in between dyno tunes. its not as good as a tune but helps. any f*cking monkey knows that each time you add anything you need a tune
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:32 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by formby View Post
sure man, sure.

any way



you can get a good deal on here on all tuning equipment

Welcome to www.moates.net! : Moates.Net

and get crome here free [pro is additional and it almost tunes your car on its own]
< C R O M E >

i would go to dyno when you install most of the important stuff [cams, header, exhaust].if you stay NA you dont need to dyno more than once.

a FPR only controls how rich or lean you are not ignition timing, fuel maps and injector size and all that good stuff... it is useless like a FMU


You cant read spark plugs can you??
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:38 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by philliman69 View Post
unless your going to waste a lot of money every time you add a part, a fpr is a great idea. dyno tuning is to expensive to do every time you add a part. you can use the fpr to adjust between tunes, saving alot of money.

also a p28 is not a cure all. the computer that was designed for you engine is what you should use for 2 reasons. 1 its illegal in most states to run anything but a matched cumputer. 2 the best way to tune most imports is with independant managment systems(hondata,chrome,etc). these will work just as good on your computer as it will on a p28. use the money you would waste on a p28 and put it to a ims.

do some research , not being a dick but i hate seing people waste money because the listened to a cookie cutter answer.

Ive put a header on a car and it starter leaning and turning the plugs whiter...by having a regulator i could turn the pressure up and even out the air/fuel...its simple. What ecu u have has nothing to do with fuel pressure, but controls the injector pulse. the pressure on the injector isnt changed by te ecu.
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Old 07-15-2007, 11:49 AM   #15
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im a noob to this sight not to cars. any computer controlled car must be adjusted after any mod.(cai,cam,exhaust ,ect). the only way to get by doing it once is to do put everything together at once, and never modify the setup again. every time you add something and dont tune you leave hp behind. fpr and adj cam gears help you to get more in between dyno tunes. its not as good as a tune but helps. any f*cking monkey knows that each time you add anything you need a tune
whats the point of getting a adj fpr when you can set how much fuel enters the motor from tuning the ECU.. and adj, cam gears only allow you to retard/advance the timing.. once again, something you dont need because you can change your timing w/o adj cam gears..
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Old 07-15-2007, 02:02 PM   #16
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What ecu u have has nothing to do with fuel pressure, but controls the injector pulse. the pressure on the injector isnt changed by te ecu.
you have no idea.....
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:43 PM   #17
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you have no idea.....

Maybe you could expain it then......that would be really cool of you, im always willing to learn something.

Just curious as to why there are so many ppl on forums that are fast to knock what somebody says or catch them slipping on spelling or just be out rite rude.

I find it really lame when instead of helping the person whom makes a mistake you bust their balls. If you can take the time to beat them down cant you take the time to help them understand where they made a mistake?


Learn to read you spark plugs.....if youre like me a cant afford a dyno tune everytime you change something.

Ok so you guys think a FPR is a waste....tell me why hell you might change my views. That and im only oding what i know. FPR's are risky yeah but theyre are a cheaper still effective way to tune. If nothing esle youll be comfortable knowing you have a new adjustable regulator rather than a ten year old stock one. Heres a good example

injectors????????WTF


I like how sometimes ppl forget that, they to were once a noob. Me i always try to help. Every little bit helps....if I should post false information i myself would want to know about it. Dont get me wrong though... I dont take offense to being corrected, it just pisses me off when the person corrects me but doesnt break it down for the rite way. Does this sound stupid??
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:57 PM   #18
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well an adj fpr is not a way to tune.. i've got a mildly modded b16 and i'm running a stock fpr with ZERO problems.. but of course i had a basemap made for my p28, which is the correct way to do it.. when you've got a motor that makes some serious numbers, then you'll need the adj. fpr.. until then.. its a waste and illegal..
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Old 07-16-2007, 09:04 AM   #19
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thank you blanco

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Old 07-19-2007, 06:49 AM   #20
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How is it that nobody has mentioned FI yet? I have a ITR and it has responded very well to boost, i'm making 300 to the wheels on all stock internals. SC's also do pretty well. If FI isn't an option, the N/A build is always there, but pretty expensive for low gains. Don't forget, the ITR has SOME of the best parts on it already. A lot of other companies use the profile from the ITR cams for aftermarket ones. And the OEM intake and exhaust manifolds beat out a lot of aftermarket ones as well.
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Old 07-19-2007, 04:53 PM   #21
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How is it that nobody has mentioned FI yet? I have a ITR and it has responded very well to boost, i'm making 300 to the wheels on all stock internals. SC's also do pretty well. If FI isn't an option, the N/A build is always there, but pretty expensive for low gains. Don't forget, the ITR has SOME of the best parts on it already. A lot of other companies use the profile from the ITR cams for aftermarket ones. And the OEM intake and exhaust manifolds beat out a lot of aftermarket ones as well.
yea I realized that the type R motor already has some of the best components , so thats mainly why i asked this question, so thanks for clearing that up

and by FI you mean forced induction right , i always thought that high compression motors such as the b18c5 type R , were unable to run boost (turbo)on stock internals, and that in order to run boost you needed low compression pistons and some other stuff to make it possible,

So what kind of FI system are you running, and how much psi ?

oh and thanks for your reply by the way
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Old 07-20-2007, 06:29 AM   #22
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Yeah FI is forced induction, I just started forum hopping recently so i'm not down with all the forum lingo either.
Here's the deal. My goal was to keep my internals stock because, if I wanted to boost high numbers, I'd have just gotten a GSR and stuffed it with internals. I wanted to keep my engine rare and OEM on the inside. Most bolt on kits make about 75-90 on stock internals. With internals it's limitless. The company I went through gained me 133 WHP on 8.5lbs of boost with stock inernals. If you get a minute check out my guy's company, it's rediculously impressive what he can do. LHT Performance, Honda & Acura engine conversions Mine is the 400 series kit.
Just take a look at some of the kits and dynos he's got. They're not cheap, but he's reliable and he wields HUGE numbers, I thought it was very worth it. There's also high compression SCs (super chargers) for engines like ours, they don't make as much power of course, but it's all about goals and driver preferences. Before I was going with my setup, I was looking hard at Vortech's Centrifugal SC. The most you're going to see safely on stock internals will be just shy of 300 with any set up. If you lower your compression you can boost really high, but if you were going to do that, just get a GSR, they're cheaper and the same engine as the type R except for the head and the pistons, and you're going to be changing all that if you build anyways. Let me know what you decide to go with, I'm very interested. If you have any questions just shoot them my way.
Also if you want the full list of what's in my car, check out my other page.
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Old 07-20-2007, 08:51 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by elsombradelsol View Post
Yeah FI is forced induction, I just started forum hopping recently so i'm not down with all the forum lingo either.
Here's the deal. My goal was to keep my internals stock because, if I wanted to boost high numbers, I'd have just gotten a GSR and stuffed it with internals. I wanted to keep my engine rare and OEM on the inside. Most bolt on kits make about 75-90 on stock internals. With internals it's limitless. The company I went through gained me 133 WHP on 8.5lbs of boost with stock inernals. If you get a minute check out my guy's company, it's rediculously impressive what he can do. LHT Performance, Honda & Acura engine conversions Mine is the 400 series kit.
Just take a look at some of the kits and dynos he's got. They're not cheap, but he's reliable and he wields HUGE numbers, I thought it was very worth it. There's also high compression SCs (super chargers) for engines like ours, they don't make as much power of course, but it's all about goals and driver preferences. Before I was going with my setup, I was looking hard at Vortech's Centrifugal SC. The most you're going to see safely on stock internals will be just shy of 300 with any set up. If you lower your compression you can boost really high, but if you were going to do that, just get a GSR, they're cheaper and the same engine as the type R except for the head and the pistons, and you're going to be changing all that if you build anyways. Let me know what you decide to go with, I'm very interested. If you have any questions just shoot them my way.
Also if you want the full list of what's in my car, check out my other page.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2501309
Ok will do , a supercharger doesnt sound like a bad idea , no lag too !,

yea im pritty sure im goin with the itr, its just a much stronger engine , and its pritty much made for racing .

so you already have and itr i see, Nice , in a del sol , nice and lite , im about to get a 94 si hatch with a itr swapped , perfect so i found someone with the same engine as me with the same intentions , let me know how that turbo goes
and thanks for the info
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Old 07-25-2007, 01:42 PM   #24
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Ok will do , a supercharger doesnt sound like a bad idea , no lag too !,

yea im pritty sure im goin with the itr, its just a much stronger engine , and its pritty much made for racing .

so you already have and itr i see, Nice , in a del sol , nice and lite , im about to get a 94 si hatch with a itr swapped , perfect so i found someone with the same engine as me with the same intentions , let me know how that turbo goes
and thanks for the info
I think you made a wise choice with the ITR, you always get respect just for having one. I'd have people drooling when i was rolling with a stock ITR and i was only making 170 to the wheels! If you plan on going with the ITR, i HIGHLY suggest you get hondata S-300. It's the best buy i made(and i've made a lot of good buys on my car). It already has a tuning set up for the stock ITR so you can play with it from there. It's a little bit pricey, but it does everything you need guranteed! Also if your going to be making more power, check out gator axles, they hold way more power than they say they do, PLUS they have a lifetime warantee, even if you're racing on 'em. Let me know what path you decide to go with for the ITR.
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Old 07-25-2007, 03:15 PM   #25
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I think you made a wise choice with the ITR, you always get respect just for having one. I'd have people drooling when i was rolling with a stock ITR and i was only making 170 to the wheels! If you plan on going with the ITR, i HIGHLY suggest you get hondata S-300. It's the best buy i made(and i've made a lot of good buys on my car). It already has a tuning set up for the stock ITR so you can play with it from there. It's a little bit pricey, but it does everything you need guranteed! Also if your going to be making more power, check out gator axles, they hold way more power than they say they do, PLUS they have a lifetime warantee, even if you're racing on 'em. Let me know what path you decide to go with for the ITR.
Aliright , i picked up the itr yesterday , its a 96 euro spec, it redlines at like 8900, same as the jdm, im running it in a eg si hatch, you said your making 170 at the wheels , mine has like 70 000 k on the motor, plus it has a dc header, and a cone intake , so i hope im making 170 at the wheels , but i guess ill never know until i dyno it , Also i was wondering being that it has 70 000 k on the motor , if i should look into replacing the seals and rings and other restoritive measures to restore stock power ? or do you think its unnessisary ?
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