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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: madison, WI
Age: 29
Posts: 1,000
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1996 civic dx
Rep Power: 32
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This problem started yesterday out of the blue and has been annoying the crap out of me each time I go to start driving my car. (96 dx stick with 150,xxx mi.) After letting it sit for a period of time like over night or while at work when I go to start it I am having problems getting it to shift into 1st or reverse while the car is started.
I can shift with no issue when the car is off. As soon as I push the clutch pedal it feels very soft and when the engine is started the car starts to move in which ever gear I have it. If I try to shift into neutral I can't so I turn my car off and try again. After I get moving and run through a couple of shift cycles I can feel the pedal has more pressure and I can shift fine for the rest of the drive. I do not think it is tranny or clutch related but more of a clutch pedal problem - gears 2-5 work fine and once I am on the road 1st and reverse work fine as well. So here is my question is there a way to adjust the tension on the clutch pedal to help the clutch disengage sooner? Is there like a master/slave cylinder that I can check? I looked under the hood and all I could find were two caps located by the drivers side rear that both had "brake fluid" on the caps. Am I missing something if so please point me in the right direction. I have a shop at school and can do the work myself if somebody could just explain what I am looking for or what I need to do. All I need is a point in the right direction to get me started. Any help would be appreciated as I want to limp this car along as long as possible to avoid a car payment. Thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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Running on two cylinders
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southbridge, MA
Age: 24
Posts: 16,180
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 2000 Mitsubishi Lancer RPW E5 Coupe
Rep Power: 219
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on the pedal itself is an adjustment bolt.
sounds more like your clutch MC is on its way out though. that is the smaller reservoir on the firewall with "brake fluid" in it. |
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: madison, WI
Age: 29
Posts: 1,000
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1996 civic dx
Rep Power: 32
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Quote:
Ok sweet is there any way to check the level in the MC? I am assuming it is the smaller of the two correct? Should it be full like the washer fluid would be? Do I need to bleed it? |
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#4 |
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Regular Member w/ Cheese
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 2,222
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 2000 EJ8 w/ SiR-II
Rep Power: 46
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You really should buy a simple manual. Any cheap manual like a Haynes or Chilton. It has step by step instructions with pictures, as well as many other common maintenance tasks like this one.
Then you won't even waste your time waiting for responses.
__________________
YBLEGAL.NET → Profile • Projects • Parts For Sale → Steel Braided Brake Lines • Front Camber Kit (Price Drop) • Manual Brake Pedal |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: madison, WI
Age: 29
Posts: 1,000
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 1996 civic dx
Rep Power: 32
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I know I should get a manual but I am at work and had no access to one. Turbo I added some DOT 3 to the MC and it was an instant improvement. Thanks for the help.
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#6 |
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Regular Member w/ Cheese
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 2,222
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 2000 EJ8 w/ SiR-II
Rep Power: 46
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It can also be bled, with the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder
__________________
YBLEGAL.NET → Profile • Projects • Parts For Sale → Steel Braided Brake Lines • Front Camber Kit (Price Drop) • Manual Brake Pedal |
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#8 |
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Regular Member w/ Cheese
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NW Indiana
Posts: 2,222
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: 2000 EJ8 w/ SiR-II
Rep Power: 46
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It has MAX and MIN lines.
Just so when the cap goes on, it's not spewing over the sides from under the cap
__________________
YBLEGAL.NET → Profile • Projects • Parts For Sale → Steel Braided Brake Lines • Front Camber Kit (Price Drop) • Manual Brake Pedal |
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#10 |
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Junior Member
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I just replaced mine last week. It's your slave cylinder, which is right in front of your transmission in the front. Your master is prob leaking as well. Get them both replaced, b/c if you just do one and not the other.....the new increased pressure from one will blow out the other.
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