packardbell

thanks
picked up a used Y8 that I'm going to rebuild.
do it once and do it right
i don't know how some people can just slap in a used motor?

wikedeye

Those brakes look good. I should have thought about painting the dust guards on my brakes. Did you get any springs for those struts?

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XBL: Wikedeye

kricket3000

i like your airhorns

|Chaz|

Heh, I'm liking this new guy already. Looks good man

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XBL Gamertag = i1Chad1i
&
i (space here)Chaz(space here)i

packardbell

Those brakes are just for the winter. I have AEM big brakes that I will be using for the summer. The dust shields are not painted but I bought them new from Honda as the old ones were rusted. At the same time I put in new wheels bearings into the spindles.
Yes I have H&R sport springs.

The OEM horn was dead so I wired up some air horns to use. lol!!








cleaned block with garden hose hooked up to the hot water tank.



crankshaft before pic

crankshaft after pic

bearing marks before

after polishing at home




















the rods







now i find there is one busted bolt i have to extract.




















i drilled the bolt but still it will not budge















I sent out the cylinderhead to get rebuilt and once i got it back it was time for my disassembly and installation of a Competition cam, competition HD springs and titanium valve retainers.







ports were ported and polished

off it came

packardbell

now to remove the springs




titanium retainers








HD springs

packardbell

new bearings





old bearings



cleaned oil pan going to get drilled and modified


some JB weld for the oil return



temporary plug for the oil return so I can drive the car still as the turbo kit will be installed in spring



head installed on to the block with ARP head bolts. ARP is used for flywheel and pressure plate too.







new oil pump installed too

plug so nothing gets inside




ARP grease

packardbell

nightmare now broken bolt head.

packardbell

some more work before the powertrain swap.



disconnect both O2 sensors

argh rust


heat shield prevented even more rust on the nuts



the two nuts that holds the downpipe was rusted and seized. I had to use a dremel and cut off disc







the two bolts that held the flanges together just snapped off when trying to remove them.




to separate the catalytic from the downpipe looked labourous so I decided to cut the pipe instead.


general pic of the undersides


new stainless headers installed





free flow megan racing catalytic



some 12.9 grade socket caps bolts


montreal winters sigh


both O2 sensors are still good and going to be reused.


rusted out rear lower control arm





since i was underneath i notice the shifter bushing was loose and installed the prothane poly ones.
















another issue i had was the freaking mounting points for the hangers was no positioned good and the line hangs a bit. Got to figure something up to lift it higher so it doesn't drag.










need to weld a hanger underneath the floor so I can use this hanger on the exhaust line.

I changed this worn bushing with the prothane one since I was under the car. LOL!!:wrench:

wanted to change this bushing and slap on the short shifter as well but seeing so much rust. I looked like it will take more than 30 minutes to do so I sprayed with it with some loose nut.


here is the bushing i needed to get to.




I will need to get shorter bolts.
as long as it does the job.

packardbell

now some transmission goodies

diff bearings and all carbon synchros are in.














OBX LSD






























here is my rebuilt gearspeed B001 Si transmission where the LSD and synchros will be going into.

disableddan

Dude!!! Your car is coming along very nicely! Best of luck man!

austin20110

and to think you were just some noob... good work so far bro

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Matts96HB

Hahaha, lol @ the person(s) that was/were hating on this car at first..

nice build mang

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kricket3000

holy batman thats alot of pics, good so far!

D16SiHatch

amazing work thus far man keep it up. sounds like its going to be beastly

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91 Civic Si
b18b1, I/H/E, 6000k HID kit, 94 teg cluster
Parting mustang out to buy another civic

wikedeye

At this rate you will be done tomorrow.

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XBL: Wikedeye

packardbell

Thanks for your praise.

here is my built up powertrain yearning to be swapped.

here is my AEM big rear disk brake upgrade for the summer










For my lighting upgrades I went with these Sonar projector headlight that specifically has a sticker "NO HID". lol!!!
Well screw what it says and immediate out came the H1 halogen bulb and in goes a McCulloch HID capsule 6000K.

the light is not white but a slight tint of blue which is acceptable I think.

these are much better than OEM stock headlights with HID in them.





























I got a fitament issue and the fender does not fit flush

got the ones I received was for 1999-2000, Damn!

So I bought TYC proejctor headlight and atleast the TYC are SAE and DOT approved. But still I'm going to put in a McCulloch HID conversion kit in them.

packardbell

Actually this adaptor harness does not exist on the market and I thought of it so I do not have to hack and splice the OEM wires.

A stock 1997 Civic uses 9003 dual filament halogen bulb fitted into a single headlight housing.

But in my situation I have changed the stock headlight housings to dual headlight assemblies. Meaning that there is a single bulb for high and single bulb for low. On top to make things a little more complicated I have fitted a McCulloch HID H1 5000K capsules into the low beams, whilst leaving the halogen H1 bulb for the high beams. So what kind of plug do you need to interface the stock OEM plug to give output to the HID and halogen bulb without cutting and splicing wires???

this the plug that came with the TYC projector lights. Blue is for low beam 12V+, black is ground -, and Red is for highbeams.



so this is what i came up with


you will need 6 H4 nylon connectors



you will need 14 female terminals


some two conductior wires preferably UL tested in Canada



I cut them into four 12 inch strips


removed about 2 inch of insulator exposing the two conductor wires. Black is for ground and white is 12V+



strip off about 6mm of insulator from each conductor wire


cut out the terminals


use the terminal and crimp all the white wires individually



for the black you will need to combine on pair of black conductors together into one crimp for one side. This one will be inserted in the connector that will be interfaced with the stock OEM plug.








prepare to insert the terminals into the H4 connectors



installation of terminals for the OEM connector. top white is for low beam 12V+, right white is for high beam 12V+, and black is ground.




make sure you have the other high and low beam H4 connectors oriented correctly.



H4 connector to OEM connector. you can see all three terminals.



Hi and Low connectors.
Hi goes to the TYC H4 connector while the Low goes to the input side for the HID relay harness.





For the H4 connectors to OEM you will need these spades since both are females




spades inserted




all this took was about 10 minutes with the right tools and a basic knowledge in wiring.

packardbell

to compliment my headlights I got some Depo auxiliary lights.

Supposedly these are completely plug and play for the halogen bulbs with the enclosed wiring. But that was not good enough for me as I wanted more lumens.

So obviously I got another McCulloch HID kit and going to install them as well.












I spent one hour fitting the McCulloch H3 HID capsules inside the light housings and drilling a big enough hole in the rear back plate to fit the grommet.
so afterwards it looked OEM except for the two high tension HID plugs. I left the stock electrical wiring as it would not affect anything and you can easily put back the halogen in if needed.

































interfacing HID wiring with the relayed harness that came with the DEPO lights.




























Took about less than 1 hour to remove the bumper skin off and both stock headlights so I can install my light upgrades.

packardbell

if the nuts and bolts are not rusted, seized or break off it would have went much more smoothly.


























Snapped off the head of the damn bolt.






spin saw didn;t work well and didn't reach so I used these Lawson drill bits and must say they are amazing
























vise grips and patience finally got these sucker out

packardbell

I always like to have a plug and play installation and not those hack jobs of cutting and splicing the oem electrical wirings.
so i got the oem connectors for the vtec solenoid, vtec oil pressure switch, knock sensor and two wire iacv.
So I extended the existing connectors, soldered, heat shrinked and marked the wires for ease of installation for myself on the ecu harnesses.


vtec solenoid probably the hardest to find of the batch












need obd2a pins on the ecu side

packardbell

more issues the front lca bushing needed replacement. went with OEM but a bitch to install.

eg'sforlife

Good Job i would shoot myself if i had to deal with all that rust

JermBizzle

Yeah I would kill myself or move south one lol, can't stand the rust on northern cars!

I really like the way the car has converted! Not feeling the headlights at all, but it looks like you've done a good job installing them, and as long as you like them, thats all that matters!

disableddan

I was just gonna say those lights look really good on there! You're a machine working on your car eh? And rust sucks, big time.