Lexiconix

A few months back I bought a 1995 Civic EX coupe (1.6L SOHC VTEC D16Z6) for $3000 at 142K miles. Body and interior was in tip top shape... no dents, rips, tears, scratches or anything like that. Came with all wheel disc brakes, H&R springs, 5-way adjustable Tockico shocks, AEM cold air intake (the kind that goes all the way down to the front near the front grill), DC Sports header and Neu Speed anti-sway bar on the front end (never really looked to check for one on the rear end). Only downfall I see on the stability/suspension are the 65 profile tires. I eventually would like to go to 17" rims with 45 or lower profile tires (that is if they'll fit without rubbing or tubbing the wheel wells). After working out all the bugs such as having to replace the radiator, ignition coil, rotor, distributor cap, plug wires and spark plugs (replaced with iridium plugs) and will probably have to replace throwout bearing or entire clutch setup (since I'm hearing a rattle whenever the clutch is not in use, I am looking for ideas to retain the D16 and mod it for a bit more performance. I'm looking for a balanced set up I would have both power and speed. Mind you I'm not looking for crazy speed I'm just looking for a car that's stable and get me out of a pinch easy (i.e. smoke the wannabe shaggers that think they got hot cars because they dropped a simple cold air intake and exhaust system on it and yet smack a bunch of badges and stickers on the car... ya'll know what I'm talking about... the all show no go kiddies... the kind that drop their jaws in disbelief when they're choking on the smoke when I leave them sitting behind at the green light in my woman's stock 2005 PT Cruiser GT with high output 2.4L Turbo (Trac-Control disengaged of course)). Anyways I'm looking for ideas and suggestions that any of you might have to offer in regards to what I'm looking for and would appreciate any links to parts sites such as Honda Civic Parts Specialists where I can order high quality parts/kits at decent or cheap prices. One thing is a must though for sure... I want limited slip differential but not sure how that works in converting what I have already to limited slip. Thanks for any and all input folks and keep on crusin in the limelight.

Oh yeah... can a moderator move this thread to it's proper forum... I believe it to be the one below this forum. Thanks

BrutalB83

I'd look into a turbo kit. 200 wheel horse is very possible on a boosted Z6...

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|Chaz|

And just to let you know this is the CRX and EF forum. But that's okay you're new.

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efhondakid

I agree with Brutal, boosted D-series=good power on a small budget. Use the search button up top there, and look around because a couple people have some really nice D-series builds on here.

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Lexiconix

Yeah I noticed that after having found out I have an EJ code chassis... for some reason I had it in my mind that it was a 4th gen. I need to go to the next forum down from this one. Won't happen again :-)

Any other suggestions aside from turbo boosting... such as a non boosted setup. Budget is really not an issue for the most part... it's simply to keep it down so the woman don't flip a shit.

get_nick

i have owned 3 civic coupes.

17's are too big. get 16's at most. they fit well and are pretty light.

consider just getting a turbo kit for the stock engine. maybe some good tires too. and take a driving class at a local track.

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|Chaz|

good suggestions Nick.

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get_nick

haha, thanks. they are pretty much my answer for everything on here these days.

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BrutalB83

If turbo's not in your budget then I'm afraid there's not really a whole lot else you can do that's going to make significant power for you. I'd look into a shot of nitrous, and yeah, skip the 17" wheels...

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get_nick

pretty much. intake/header/exhaust. MIGHT net you 7-10whp. but for the $700-$1000 it will cost, it's not worth it IMHO.

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|Chaz|

The OP never really said what his budget was in the first place. He just said he wants to keep it down so his woman won't flip.

To the OP:

What's your budget?

You could piece together a decent turbo kit for about $2000. That may be within your budget...

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awptickes

I've built up my d14 to around 115HP. Stock internals, I/H/E and a tune (still needs a better tune).

To start off, you should read everything you possibly can before you buy anything, this will save you tons of money in the long run. First mod should be an intake. Research it before you buy it. Second should be some headers. Then exhaust system, cat-back, not just a muffler. Get something quiet like the WS2 so the girlie doesn't notice. Fourth, get a better flowing intake header, like a d16y8 intake. At this point, your car will be running a little better than before, but now you need to tune it. It really doesn't make sense tuning along the way unless you have a self-tuning system like a hondata or a similar system. For this save up about $600 to do it right.

Remember, you can't do anything the wrong way with your car. It's your car. There's no wrong way to do anything, just tasteful ways.

On another note:
If you want 17's, do it, but keep in mind that big chrome rims are like making the fattest kid in gym class run track. (Author Unknown)

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Lexiconix

Let's just say this... I have a little over 20k in the bank and bring home about 700 a week from work so money really isn't an issue it's just a matter of spreading it across the board and working the car up slowly without making the woman think I'm dumping tons in the car. I don't know why she bugs out when we make big purchases considering I own the house free and clear except yearly property/school taxes, both vehicles are paid for so our only required expenses are utilities, food and entertainment. The I/H/E path was going to be my first option then slowly work up the internals such as the pistons, flywheels, limited slip diff and so on then go for the boost from turbo (homebuilt). Once all that's done I was then thinking of working the body such as carbon fiber fenders, hoods, trunks and a not so loud body kit for front and rear. As for the 17's, I hadn't intended to go chrome... too heavy IMO I was looking more for light weight black finish type rims that looked like factory steels, haven't found them yet though. Kinda bad when folks in the neighborhood are desperate enough to actually steal factory steels off mine within 2 days of buying the car. 16's sound a bit better the more I think about it because I currently run 15" steel rims with 65 profiles and I occasionally get a rubbing issue when I hard brake. Currently I'm just running it to work out any mechanical issues as I mentioned in my OP. After that I'm probably going to drop a Magnaflow or DC Sports exhaust system, don't know if I want to change out my intake or not... it's currently an AEM intake that goes down behind the bumper. Still doing much research and soaking up any input I get. I have my father who is a master mechanic/technician at the Chrysler dealership up the street from my house... but I suspect he holds back some of his performance knowledge fearing I intend to tear up the roads with it. 10 years ago that might have been true but today I've got a family to worry about. It's going to be more of a hobby/project for me and for my son as a growing experience for him... working with daddy on his car kind of thing. That's what I remember best about my dad... working on cars with him.. especially the 67 Cuda with 426 Hemi bored over to 428 with a fully blown overhead weiand supercharger and oversized pistons with elongated rods... (I'm sure there was more to the car than I remember) that car was my first real experience in feeling American Muscle on my feet and hands and heart pounding in my brains on seeing the clock crossing the 1/4 line at just shy over 10 seconds. Unfortunately the motor siezed up after it's 8th run on the strip and sadly the car went to the scrap yard. After that came the sports compact imports (92 CRX Si) that my buddy had me drive all the time because he had lost his license due to DUI for 6 years. Loved the closeness to the ground and the way the car just seemed to dig deep into the road... even on the corners. So here I am with my first real personal project/hobby car with the 95 Civic coupe. By the way... thank to all who posted suggestions... I'll take them into mind while I'm doing my research and would love any further input, ideas and suggestions.

BrutalB83

You need to decide what route you want to go before you buy any parts at all. An N/A build and a turbo build are completely different. For example, if you're keeping it N/A then you'd want higher compression pistons, but if you plan on turbo, then you're going to want to drop the compression.

Also, if you plan on going turbo, then a DC exhaust probably won't cut it. You're going to want something bigger, probably 3" at least depending on how much power you plan to make.

Honestly, you might just want to think about picking up another engine that you can put on a stand and build on the side. That way you don't have any down time with your car and you don't have to build it in stages.

Like everyone else said, research, research, research. Plan out your entire engine build before you buy any parts at all...

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90DATeggy

boost it

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90DATeggy

n research every last bit..

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Lexiconix

Ok after having done a bit more research and due to current situation with my transmission. I do believe I'm going to go the boosted route with a homebuilt turbo setup. Currently I got a nasty rattle in my transmission (gotta understand I'm deaf and do wear hearing aids and I was able to hear this rattle). My father says it's some bearing inside the transmission. Now in my mind I'm thinking either new transmission, rebuilt transmission or just do a swap to say like a B18C SiR II or something along those lines. Going from a stock 125ish HP in the D16Z6 to roughly 180 HP in the B18C SiR II.... I'm kinda tempted to just deal with a swap rather than keeping the D-Series. I'm open to others suggestions and opinions. My biggest issue is I'm short on time and trying to absorb as much as I can... when it comes to the B18C SiR II... is that a good motor for a boosted configuration? (I'll probably find an answer before I get a response here but hey... ya'll been helpful so far and love to hear what others think as it seems most of you have been tearing through Honda/Acura/Mitsu engines left and right and have the actual hands on experience that I don't quite have yet.) Another thing... I been searching down the JDM sites for the B18C SiRII's... (quite a few I must say)... which one have any of you guys used and have gotten good product and results?

[edit]
Woah... massive brain fart.... the B18C SiRII in above mentioned should read B16 SiRII

Lexiconix

Hmmm that would explain why I was seeing mixed info about the B-Series motors... some swore by em and some boo'd em... looked like it was a love or hate situation. The woman and I got into a fight today over this whole thing anyways... Looks like I'll probably have to stick with the D16Z6 and either get the tranny rebuilt or simply drop a new one. I'm looking to put the car in a condition where it won't have to constantly be worked on VS doing half ass repairs and praying it won't spring up again. She rather me get it rebuilt than to get a new tranny. WOMEN! (To those chickie drivers here... please don't take offense.......)

Jeef

I moved it to the right forum for you. I would agree with Blanco on the tire size. I had 15" gsr fat fives on my 95 coupe and they looked good on there.

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BrutalB83

Just curious here, if you have all the money you say you do, why is your lady so concerned about you spending a few bucks on your ride?

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Lexiconix

BrutalB.... what can I say... she is a woman and a worry wart. Her mother is even worse. I've already told her that if she gets to be like her mother... I ain't staying around and I'm taking my son with me. He don't need to suffer her antics either.

Blanco... it's what I'm pretty much trying to do but both my dad and the woman are creating roadblocks for me.... although I did show the woman how I found a used tranny with only 48k miles on it for $350 from my dad's buddy's salvage yard. Warrantied for 35k miles... sweet deal I must say. I'm constantly listening (despite the fact I'm deaf) and feeling the car searching for signs of trouble. I want to attempt to work out any major issues before I start collecting parts to boost the engine. I did find out reman/rebuilt tranny are usually more than a new tranny... kind of odd in my opinion but that's what I found, so my choices are above mentioned or new tranny and have my pops put it in for me. I've decided against an actual swap because I am seeing the curve between the D and B series boosting and performance costs and I really don't want a loud engine as most people are saying the B-Series are loud (as I'm more pursuing a sleeper build... you know... that quiet little guy walking around with a huge stick). I may go B-Series once I've gotten my hands dirty and have blown the D to hell and back. By that time I'll have my private funds built up and have the know-how.

Jeef... thanks for moving the thread and sorry to have to bother you for it.

Blanco/Jeef... ok 15's is the word from the two of you... I know I ain't touching chrome doves due to weight issues and maintenance cleaning to keep it clear of pits (the less external maintenance I have to worry about the better)... should I even change from factory steels and go with a light weight set of rims or is it not that much of a difference using steels vs lightweights? (to go that route I'd definitely have to locknut them and drop an alarm on the car cuz folks around here are even desperate enough to steel factory steel rims)

If ya'll are interested I'll keep ya'll posted and show some current pictures prior to mods and such. Once again... thank you all for your input and suggestions and ideas and thank you for not roasting/ignoring me because I'm new here.

|Chaz|

If you're looking for fairly light weight rims that are cheap, try and find some used Civic HX rims. They are 14 inch I believe.

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Lexiconix

If I'm reading this right... gears are swapable to a certain point? If so... You've brought exactly the kind of things I'm looking for... precision performance tuning from inside out. The kind that'll work with turbo setup.


Oh man... after further reading did I only get even more lost in the concept... numbers and such don't get along well with me... but I'm seeing a common suggestion to use ZC 3, 4 and 5th? or just ZC 3 and 5th to avoid the grindage on 4th? If the latter is true than I didn't catch wether or not to use the stock 4th or another 4th? Following these line of thoughts... which one of these two would have the ZC gears i'm looking for?

eBay Motors: HONDA CIVIC 88-91 5SPD CABLE ZC / D15B TRANSMISSION (item 280220035474 end time May-01-08 07:45:44 PDT)
or
eBay Motors: JDM Honda Civic 5spd Transmission D16A-ZC Si 92-2000 (item 110246353854 end time May-03-08 11:45:01 PDT)

Ok I think I cleared it up myself... I can see the power curve is less steep thus keeping the power bands really close to each other using the zc or mfactory's spec gears but then I'd be sacrificing my MPG if I'm thinking right... (Fatboy Raceworks Transmission Gear Ratio Calculator - Honda/Acura & More this helped put things in to a little better perspective for me) lower speeds higher rpms = gas consumption. Dare I ask if there's a happy medium? Balancing power with MPG?

Lexiconix

Ahh the final drive does in-fact affect the overall change of the gearing ratios. Thanks man.

Lexiconix

Doing some shopping around to get a baseline price for the work I need to do (i.e. transmission, found a few low mileage used ones from trusted local sources for about $300-$400 and soon to be boost setup) and I'd like to check with the mad scientists here to see if a Garret TB0335 (this is the t3 correct?) that I found on an side/rear smashed Dodge Daytona Shelby in a junk yard that looks to be in excellent condition (will have me pops verify it's condition being that he is a chrysler master mechanic and technician) would go nicely with a mostly stock D16Z6 without requiring extensive mods or change of internals. Thanks.