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PMINC · 03-19-2008, 11:33 PM

I have a 2002 civic ex 5 speed d17a2 engine. Motor's fubared due to the 1oo plus n2o shot i had in it. (It dyno at 184hp 186trq) stage 2 cam the liitle thing was quick for sohc. I found a d17a2 in a 89 civic hatch. I'm gonna swap the motors then get rid of the 89 body. My Questions are Does the engine have to be pulled with the subframe and tranny from the bottom? Is it possible to pull the motor out from the top? The garage I'm using doesn't have a lift so with jackstands and an engine hoist it will be really difficult raising the car over the engine. Second question is what is the limits of the stock engine iternals for boost and for n2o? I'm trying to figure out if I can make 300 - 400 hp with fully built d17 turbo or n2o. I'd like n2o that would be my choice since it can be used when I want to. Last question is anybody interested in a 89 civic with no engine and tranny. Looks like it had a sunroof that was filled in poorly needs body work. I should pick it up in a couple of days I will post picks to this thread.

BrutalB83 · 03-21-2008, 10:33 PM

Wow...I'm amazed that somebody's actually running a D17 in an EF...I don't think that would be the easiest swap to wire up...

Anyhoo, yes, you can pull the engine and tranny from the top. That's how most people do it when they do engine swaps at home. As for the power capabilities of that engine, I wouldn't push it much past the 250 wheel horse mark without upgrading the internals.

PMINC · 03-25-2008, 08:23 PM

He told me it took a while with the wiring harness and had to modifiy driver side engine mount. Thats the last place I would look for a D17. I don't think it was his first choice for a swap. Besides in Wet Virginia you have no idea about the stuff that will pass inspection.

When pulling the engine and tranny from the top can it be unbolted from the subframe or does the subframe still have to come out?

250hp? Really? I blew my D17 with 100 shot and was tuned on a dyno by a pro. and tuned back to a 50 shot. I was running a 100 shot for 2 months before it was tuned and still blew my engine. It made 184whp. And now you tell me the engine stock will hold 250whp, I'm not buying it. Maybe built could get to 250 400whp turbo'd. Do you have any examples of 250whp without a fully bult engine? It doesn't sound very reliable.

BrutalB83 · 03-26-2008, 12:24 AM

I said that I wouldn't exceed 250 horses, meaning that's the upper end of the spectrum for what a stock D-series engine on boost can handle. That's a pretty commonly known and accepted figure. If I was doing a boosted D on stock internals I'd probably shoot for 180ish-200ish wheel horse. And in all fairness, you were spraying a 100 shot for two whole months without any tuning, not really the best of ideas. The reliability of a forced induction setup is 90% in the tuning...

PMINC · 03-26-2008, 02:51 PM

What I was trying to get at I really don't think 200 - 250whp is really safe on stock internals. I always heard no more than 50% of stock hp on stock internals that would be about 65 extra hp plus the stocl 125 would be around 195 and thats pushing the limits of the stock internals.

BrutalB83 · 03-26-2008, 09:14 PM

Once again...like I said earlier...I wouldn't attempt to exceed 250 horses, meaning that's the very upper end of the spectrum as far as how much power you can make on a stock D-series engine with boost. I'd probably keep it in the 180-200 range myself to be safe. I'm just saying it has been done.

And also...like I said earlier...the reliability and longevity of a boosted engine depends largely on the tuning. The better and more precise the tuning job, the more power you can push. The 50% rule is a safety measure. It's possible to boost more than that and keep it fairly reliable on a good tune. Keep it within the 50% range and you'll have more peace of mind...

PMINC · 04-07-2008, 01:38 PM

You were right the engine and trans will come out the top. Did honda make a different tranny for this motor? The reason I'm asking is because the tranny bolts line up but the starter is on a different side off the trans. And it looks like the mounting hardware and wiring harness are in diffrerent locations. Is it possible to bolt like a d15 trans to it? The donor car is a 89 civic hatch with a d17a2 swap but the trans is not exactly the same, it is a 5 speed manual, any ideas why its different? Is there any trans differance for the years 02 to 05 ? Or did they make some weird hybrid in 01?

PMINC · 04-14-2008, 01:42 PM

The donor motor is cracked. I don't know how deep the crack goes but what would be the point of using it knowing it will break sooner or later. I am now again in the market for a D17A2 engine if ne1 has one in good condition let me know.

PMINC · 04-18-2008, 09:15 PM

Found an other engine it's in and starts fine having problems with the clutch. Clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor with no pressure. No clutch line leaks, the slave cylinder is getting no fluid and does not function. Any Ideas on why?

92civicb18b1 · 04-18-2008, 09:53 PM

Master cylinder would be the next thing to check...

PMINC · 04-23-2008, 07:43 AM

Yeah the master cylinder or the lines out the master cylinder are leaking air. Getting at that master cylinder is not a ".8 hour job" like the mechanics book says. It woulda been so much easier to get at it when the engine was out.

Has anyone dropped a B motor into 7th gen ? I have been thinking about getting a b18 ,fully building it because it is cheaper than a K motor. Cheaper internals on the b motor than the k motor. With the k motor it seems that a lot of money is going to be all the misc. accessories. I know that doing a B swap would be illegal but where I live inspection is a joke and we have no emmisions testing. I have looked around but have not found anyone that has done this swap.

BrutalB83 · 04-23-2008, 10:33 AM

You'd need completely custom mounts. You're not going to find any aftermarket mounts for a B-series into an 01+ Civic...

PMINC · 04-25-2008, 01:16 AM

Besides the custom fabd mounts is there anything else I need? I know for the k-swap you need axles, fans,brake lines, clutc lines etc. All this adds up but since I can't find a b-swap I can't get an accurate parts list. I think someone has done this, but can't seem to find it. With the price of a k-swap you think someone would of done a b-swap. Don't get me wrong I would love a k24 turbo setup but for the buck I think I could reach 400hp for half the price with a B-block.

PMINC · 05-04-2008, 05:47 PM

More problems with my car. It was running great for two weeks. No engine lights. Then I start losing voltage. Gauges dropped out while I was driving alternator light comes on when I stop car dies. Alternator wire was broken at the bolt. Fixed it and car runs great 14.2 volts constant. No engine lights runs fine for 2 days then engine light comes on while its raining. Car runs fine I thought it was the air intake sensor. Parked it, started it up couple of hours later engine light flashing car runs like crap. Used scanner "misfire on cyl.4" and "intake air senor" my cold air intake usually throws intake senor. Checked spark plug, coil pack, fuel injector, no luck. I'm pretty sure cyl 4 is not getting spark. It wont arc from coil pack to valve cover or any other ground. Checked over the valve cover for shorted lines no luck. Did not trace wire past wire loom. Is there anything that i'm missing? If its a electric issue would all cylinders be misfiring? I thought I'd ask before I start messing with trying to find a short.

PMINC · 05-04-2008, 10:21 PM

the 4th cylinder is getting spark but still not running right.

PMINC · 05-11-2008, 02:51 AM

replaced ecu car is running fine for now.

03-19-2008, 11:33 PM	#1
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	D17A2 removal I have a 2002 civic ex 5 speed d17a2 engine. Motor's fubared due to the 1oo plus n2o shot i had in it. (It dyno at 184hp 186trq) stage 2 cam the liitle thing was quick for sohc. I found a d17a2 in a 89 civic hatch. I'm gonna swap the motors then get rid of the 89 body. My Questions are Does the engine have to be pulled with the subframe and tranny from the bottom? Is it possible to pull the motor out from the top? The garage I'm using doesn't have a lift so with jackstands and an engine hoist it will be really difficult raising the car over the engine. Second question is what is the limits of the stock engine iternals for boost and for n2o? I'm trying to figure out if I can make 300 - 400 hp with fully built d17 turbo or n2o. I'd like n2o that would be my choice since it can be used when I want to. Last question is anybody interested in a 89 civic with no engine and tranny. Looks like it had a sunroof that was filled in poorly needs body work. I should pick it up in a couple of days I will post picks to this thread.

03-21-2008, 10:33 PM	#2
BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Rochester Hills, MI Age: 26 Posts: 7,830 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 97 Integra LS Coupe Rep Power: 191	Wow...I'm amazed that somebody's actually running a D17 in an EF...I don't think that would be the easiest swap to wire up... Anyhoo, yes, you can pull the engine and tranny from the top. That's how most people do it when they do engine swaps at home. As for the power capabilities of that engine, I wouldn't push it much past the 250 wheel horse mark without upgrading the internals. __________________ If you find something I say helpful, please send some rep my way! Also, DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums so we can all benefit from the answers. I will NOT respond to tech-related PMs... PSN Network ID: BrutalB83

03-26-2008, 12:24 AM	#4
BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Rochester Hills, MI Age: 26 Posts: 7,830 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 97 Integra LS Coupe Rep Power: 191	I said that I wouldn't exceed 250 horses, meaning that's the upper end of the spectrum for what a stock D-series engine on boost can handle. That's a pretty commonly known and accepted figure. If I was doing a boosted D on stock internals I'd probably shoot for 180ish-200ish wheel horse. And in all fairness, you were spraying a 100 shot for two whole months without any tuning, not really the best of ideas. The reliability of a forced induction setup is 90% in the tuning... __________________ If you find something I say helpful, please send some rep my way! Also, DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums so we can all benefit from the answers. I will NOT respond to tech-related PMs... PSN Network ID: BrutalB83

03-26-2008, 09:14 PM	#6
BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Rochester Hills, MI Age: 26 Posts: 7,830 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 97 Integra LS Coupe Rep Power: 191	Once again...like I said earlier...I wouldn't attempt to exceed 250 horses, meaning that's the very upper end of the spectrum as far as how much power you can make on a stock D-series engine with boost. I'd probably keep it in the 180-200 range myself to be safe. I'm just saying it has been done. And also...like I said earlier...the reliability and longevity of a boosted engine depends largely on the tuning. The better and more precise the tuning job, the more power you can push. The 50% rule is a safety measure. It's possible to boost more than that and keep it fairly reliable on a good tune. Keep it within the 50% range and you'll have more peace of mind... __________________ If you find something I say helpful, please send some rep my way! Also, DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums so we can all benefit from the answers. I will NOT respond to tech-related PMs... PSN Network ID: BrutalB83

04-18-2008, 09:53 PM	#10
92civicb18b1 The Trisexual Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey Age: 22 Posts: 8,874 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee Rep Power: 122	Master cylinder would be the next thing to check... __________________ DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1


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03-25-2008, 08:23 PM	#3
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	He told me it took a while with the wiring harness and had to modifiy driver side engine mount. Thats the last place I would look for a D17. I don't think it was his first choice for a swap. Besides in Wet Virginia you have no idea about the stuff that will pass inspection. When pulling the engine and tranny from the top can it be unbolted from the subframe or does the subframe still have to come out? 250hp? Really? I blew my D17 with 100 shot and was tuned on a dyno by a pro. and tuned back to a 50 shot. I was running a 100 shot for 2 months before it was tuned and still blew my engine. It made 184whp. And now you tell me the engine stock will hold 250whp, I'm not buying it. Maybe built could get to 250 400whp turbo'd. Do you have any examples of 250whp without a fully bult engine? It doesn't sound very reliable.

03-26-2008, 02:51 PM	#5
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	What I was trying to get at I really don't think 200 - 250whp is really safe on stock internals. I always heard no more than 50% of stock hp on stock internals that would be about 65 extra hp plus the stocl 125 would be around 195 and thats pushing the limits of the stock internals.

04-07-2008, 01:38 PM	#7
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	You were right the engine and trans will come out the top. Did honda make a different tranny for this motor? The reason I'm asking is because the tranny bolts line up but the starter is on a different side off the trans. And it looks like the mounting hardware and wiring harness are in diffrerent locations. Is it possible to bolt like a d15 trans to it? The donor car is a 89 civic hatch with a d17a2 swap but the trans is not exactly the same, it is a 5 speed manual, any ideas why its different? Is there any trans differance for the years 02 to 05 ? Or did they make some weird hybrid in 01?

04-14-2008, 01:42 PM	#8
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	The donor motor is cracked. I don't know how deep the crack goes but what would be the point of using it knowing it will break sooner or later. I am now again in the market for a D17A2 engine if ne1 has one in good condition let me know.

04-18-2008, 09:15 PM	#9
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	Found an other engine it's in and starts fine having problems with the clutch. Clutch pedal goes all the way to the floor with no pressure. No clutch line leaks, the slave cylinder is getting no fluid and does not function. Any Ideas on why?

04-23-2008, 07:43 AM	#11
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	B motor in 7th gen? Yeah the master cylinder or the lines out the master cylinder are leaking air. Getting at that master cylinder is not a ".8 hour job" like the mechanics book says. It woulda been so much easier to get at it when the engine was out. Has anyone dropped a B motor into 7th gen ? I have been thinking about getting a b18 ,fully building it because it is cheaper than a K motor. Cheaper internals on the b motor than the k motor. With the k motor it seems that a lot of money is going to be all the misc. accessories. I know that doing a B swap would be illegal but where I live inspection is a joke and we have no emmisions testing. I have looked around but have not found anyone that has done this swap.

04-23-2008, 10:33 AM	#12
BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Rochester Hills, MI Age: 26 Posts: 7,830 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 97 Integra LS Coupe Rep Power: 191	You'd need completely custom mounts. You're not going to find any aftermarket mounts for a B-series into an 01+ Civic... __________________ If you find something I say helpful, please send some rep my way! Also, DO NOT PM me with tech questions! Use the forums so we can all benefit from the answers. I will NOT respond to tech-related PMs... PSN Network ID: BrutalB83

04-25-2008, 01:16 AM	#13
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	Besides the custom fabd mounts is there anything else I need? I know for the k-swap you need axles, fans,brake lines, clutc lines etc. All this adds up but since I can't find a b-swap I can't get an accurate parts list. I think someone has done this, but can't seem to find it. With the price of a k-swap you think someone would of done a b-swap. Don't get me wrong I would love a k24 turbo setup but for the buck I think I could reach 400hp for half the price with a B-block.

05-04-2008, 05:47 PM	#14
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	More problems with my car. It was running great for two weeks. No engine lights. Then I start losing voltage. Gauges dropped out while I was driving alternator light comes on when I stop car dies. Alternator wire was broken at the bolt. Fixed it and car runs great 14.2 volts constant. No engine lights runs fine for 2 days then engine light comes on while its raining. Car runs fine I thought it was the air intake sensor. Parked it, started it up couple of hours later engine light flashing car runs like crap. Used scanner "misfire on cyl.4" and "intake air senor" my cold air intake usually throws intake senor. Checked spark plug, coil pack, fuel injector, no luck. I'm pretty sure cyl 4 is not getting spark. It wont arc from coil pack to valve cover or any other ground. Checked over the valve cover for shorted lines no luck. Did not trace wire past wire loom. Is there anything that i'm missing? If its a electric issue would all cylinders be misfiring? I thought I'd ask before I start messing with trying to find a short.

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05-04-2008, 10:21 PM	#15
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	the 4th cylinder is getting spark but still not running right.

05-11-2008, 02:51 AM	#16
PMINC Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 41 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 5	replaced ecu car is running fine for now.

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D17A2 removal