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This is a discussion on ive got a stumper, b16 pr3 wont rev up fast in the ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning forum
ive been having this problem ever since i did the swap, going on 5 years ago. ive been messing with it off and on but now im serious on trying to fix this thing. the car is a 91 crx dx with a b16a1 pr3 ...
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|06-08-2008, 01:39 AM||#1|
ive got a stumper, b16 pr3 wont rev up fast
ive been having this problem ever since i did the swap, going on 5 years ago. ive been messing with it off and on but now im serious on trying to fix this thing.
the car is a 91 crx dx with a b16a1 pr3 swap i did using hasport harness, mounts, linkage, header,,,, the whole 9 yards. its a clean swap
the problem is that if the car is reved over vtec engagment, the car revs really really slow at wot. at partial throttle, less than 1/4 thorttle it revs beutifully and sounds right. sounds like a classic tps sensor or tps wiring problem but its not! no codes
ive thrown the manual at it and countless dollars in parts trying to figure this out. ive stumped too many techs, and gurus and myslef. this is what ive done pretty reciently to try to fix it:
new: distirubtor, wires, plugs, honda t-belt, water pump, oil pump, tensioner, headgasket, rings, valve seals, o2 sensors, tps, fuel filter, fuel pump- 190 walbro, fpr,
switched: tps wires, ecu including pr4, zdyne and another pr3 mine is a manual ecu its a pr3-003 switches o2 sensors,
checked: tps, map sensor voltages (graphing dvom) ignition timing, valve timeing, fule pressure 40 idle/ 45 wot, fuel volume (7.8 oz in 10 sec)- spec ive got ample
cranking comp.-4 puffs 170 across, leak down test x<5% valve lash .006 & .008
ive got fuel, ive got spark, valve timing is on/tight- verfied, iginiton timing set at 16*
im soo screwed, i dont nkow what to do i just want my b16 to rev instead its just sits at 5500 revving really slow. not normal feels like im hitting the breaks slow. other than that its got great low end power, great fuel economy just no ass to it.
im open to suggestions NEED HELP PLEASE!!
|06-08-2008, 01:46 AM||#2|
i forgot some stuff, replace knock sensor, spool valve filter, ect, ohmsed injectors 2.2 ohms, resisor box 7 ohms. replaced motion loss assemblies, fuel filter sock,
this is all in the past 6 months give or take. none of it have made a damn difference, this really sux for me
|06-08-2008, 09:19 AM||#3|
hows your cat look? a clogged cat can reduce performance at wot, I have another idea but its a stretch, check your e brake cable to make sure its working correctly, its possible that it could be dragging
|06-09-2008, 09:13 PM||#4|
ive checked the 2 items you were suggesting. at one point in time my collector flange broke off my midpipe. so i ran the car open header for like 30 miles to my friends house to weld it back up and put a flew pipe on it so it wouldnt break again. it broke like 3 times but it hasnt broken in like a year now. knock on wood!!!
and for the the brakes, they arnt grabing, the car runs great below 5k and seriously feels like your tapping on the brakes after 5. another example:
if you rev the car up sitting still its fast up to 5k and after its slow and sounds kinda like a miss afterwards. but if if you rev the car up slow/ with very little throttle like 25% or less, the car revs right and sounds normal. its a pretty stoute b16 just when you go more than 25% it revs reallly slow. i wish i could video the cluster as i go down a road to further explain.
less than 25% throttle it revs nice but slow via (patial throttle)
more than 25% throttle the car revs slow and kinda sounds like a little poping out the exhaust.
in all honesty it feels like its running out of fuel or the timming is so advanced it falls on its face at high rpms. the problem is that its niether. they are dead on and for valve timing its dead on and tight.
this problem has stumped soo many honda guys with swaps or do swaps for a hobby its not funny anymore. that why im thinkin of going obd1 so i can data log/ see whats really going on its got to an electronic issue.
its not mechanical, not fuel, not timing, what else can it be? all wires fluxed/ soldered shrink raped and in the right pins. this is why im sooo lost its such an easy swap too
|06-09-2008, 09:54 PM||#5|
the only other thing I can think of is to check the ohms on the injectors, its might be possible that one of them may not be opening correctly, The problem sounds like a fuel issue to me, although im not 100% sure.
|06-11-2008, 08:10 AM||#7|
i ohm'ed all of the injectors all were 2.2 ohms. and i have played with the ignition timing all over the place. thats the only thing, it just doesnt make any sense that i have this problem everything is right.
i was thinkin of going to obd-1 and just going crome disable some sensors, get my buddy to burn mt a chip and then try that.
*** hes also got a rywire dx-vtec wiring harness out of his 91 DX HATCH, are the harnesses different between a hatch and a crx both dx?*** i can get the harness for 300. it works and no cores of its not a bad deal.
|12-02-2011, 05:59 PM||#10|
I kow this is an old post but I actually registered to hopefully shed some light on this question.
Ef8b16a1 brought up the fact the catalytic converter flange had broken and that the engine was run 30 miles open header. Was the problem noticed after this had happened or did this happen shortly after the swap?
If more promenant afterwards there is a possibility the exhaust valves are not sealing under combustion. This is what you are hearing with 1/4 throttle exhaust popping. When an engine runs too long without back pressure the exhaust valves are overcooled and do not expand at the same rate as the valve seats. This pounds out the seat causeing it to leak out you combustion pressure that is supposed to be pushing down your piston.
|12-03-2011, 01:09 AM||#11|
my frinds civic was doing the same thing not to long ago he says the screen to the vtec solenoid was clogged and fixed it..not saying its the solution but its worth a try n replacing that screen or cleaning it with some carb cleaner.
|b16, crx, obd0, problem, slow|
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