joker01

hey guys am beat with this prob i have i jus finished a swap in my concerto which i kinda forgot but anywho,the swap is a vtec d15b and when i tried to start it, it jus cranks no fuel no spark. i have a fuel psi gauge and it reads 0psi could anyone help me out and am using the pp4 non vtececu i got with the car for now until i get myself a chipped p28

lostsoulzprophet

is the fuel pump coming on.

joker01

no it isnt

joker01

anyone?

lostsoulzprophet

I would start with checking fuses.

joker01

ama do da asap

Fernpatch

I think the concerto is kinda like a civic? if so check your grounds and your main relay. Bad ground at the thermostat housing can cause computer problems. The main relay powers the ignition system and the fuel pump.

joker01

a lil more info ecu light stays on solid and am sick for now so when am on ma feet i will double check the ground wires thnx much guys i will let yourll know what my results will be

CAFROG

I agree that it might be grounds or the Main Relay (like was stated)

Trans ground, Valve Cover ground and the engine harness ground near the thermostat.

Fernpatch

if the check engine light is staying on solid go straight to the main relay.

Dual-500

Doesn't the CEL stay on when starting until the engine fires up and the tach signal shows it's running?

joker01

hey guys i found out the ground near the thermostat wasnt connected so i clean it up and connected it but i still aint getting fuel pressure and the ecu is throwing 3 cels code 6,10 and 13.i will investigate code 6 and 10 cause i know where their connections are but am lost with code 13 is says atmospheric pressure sensor

Dual-500

CEL Fault Code #13: BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure) defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor. I don't know where this sensor is located on your model. If the MAP is remoted from the engine and mounted on the firewall, it is probably there with the MAP sensor in a cluster.

About the fuel pressure. Hmmmm, assuming it had fuel pressure before the engine change out. That's an interesting condition. What confirms it has no fuel pressure?

joker01

my glow shift gauge confirmed it but goods news i finally got pressure but i got 2 leaking fuel injectors and am thinking bout changing the iat sensor cuz i cleaned connector side of the sensor and the cel is still there so i will jus swap the spare one i have in and the water temp sensor was cut of my harness so i tried to make one but am gona jus look for a whole harness from a wreck

Weezle1

Just curious, when you check for codes, does the d4 light blink? The cel blink? Or both? If just the d4 light, does the cel stay on as you check for codes?

joker01

jus the cel and yea it stays on showing the codes until i switch of the ignition

Weezle1

when does the ecu light stay solid? When the key is in the ON position?

joker01

i mean it throws the cel normal it was staying solid cause of the un connected ground wire on the thermostat

Fernpatch

You sir are correct, on an OBD-1 and OBD-2 car the cel should stay on until the engine fires up. I got the year of the car mixed up and was thinking it was an OBD-0 car. On OBD-0 cars the cel will come on for about 3-5 seconds when you turn the ignition to the run position while the fuel pump primes and than it will shut off. I have seen many 88-91 civics that had the cel stay solid and no fuel pressure. All of them have been fixed by replacement of the main relay.

__________________
What I write is my own opinion based on what I have done. Your own results may vary...

"Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you." --Anonymous

Dual-500

Good to know. I transitioned my '91 hatch from OBD0 to OBD1 and had no idea of the CEL function modes when I got to the initial startup phase. What. Ads it. Ore fun was I had to troubleshoot a few things like grounds I forgot to connect. ECU was dead, no CEL, nothing. So, needless to say, I got smart on it.

Mine had fuel pressure, but no spark. No CEL initially either. Figured out ECU was dead and traced it back to grounds, then sorted out dizzy sensor wiring and it cranked up.

joker01

hey guys update; cleaned up my connections for the sensors and i aint getting any cel codes from the ecu but i am loosing pressure slowly when i on the ignition, i have gas in the tank buts its not much like a lil less than a gallon and i havent tried starting the car yet, should the pressure drop if there isnt much gas in the tank?

CAFROG

Not sure....but I do know pressue is lower with key at "on" posistion and motor not running versus when the motor is running.

joker01

kk well from the data from my gauge is like 38psi den it drops down slowly as ign is on to around 25psi

CAFROG

So you think you are lossing pressure? If so....might be leaking somewhere?

What the gauge says when nothing is on doesn't seem to be as relevant to me

My psi is set at 52 in my kswap but not sure what stock is suppose to be

Yours might be set to 25psi

joker01

mine stock suppose to b 38psi and i trying to trace it to a leak but i aint getting showing and i jus replaced my o rings on my injectors i will attempt to start tomorrow and i will update this thread