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Luis998 · 03-06-2008, 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newb

Let me take a crack at your head stud question. In the ARP catalog, which i have in my hands right now, there are three different B-series vtec part numbers. First there is GSR with P/N 208-4304, than there is B16A with P/N 208-4601, finally there is B20B w/B16A head with P/N 208-4306. Unfortunatly there is no further info to tell the differences between them. Ive always been told that with an LS/Vtec, no matter which head, use GSR studs. That leads me to believe that required height for both would be the same. One thought, maybe the distance the stud threads into the block varies, changing the required length, but I do not know. My best guess would be that the GSR and B16 head studs are the same, but thats only a guess. Maybe someone else would care to correct my thoughts or add to this? Good luck finding more info though.

Thanks man. I really appreciate the insight. From what I have heard, you are right as far as using the GSR studs, which would answer my question. The B16 studs would be too short to go on a GSR block. With that said, lets see which block I 100% end up going with, a B16, which I already have or a GSR.

Luis998 · 03-06-2008, 02:15 PM

From what I have just learned, Nitride coated valves are good, if you get them coated after a three or five angle valve job. They should not be coated before. Does anyone know anything about that?

Also, from what I understand, over sized valves provide a better seal and allow for more power to be made later on. Is that really the case? I'm wondering if I should go with over sized, since later on I may want to increase my power goals. If I did, would a .5 or 1.0 over size valve work better and why?

Luis998 · 03-06-2008, 03:40 PM

Is putting your head (not the one connected to your neck bone) on a flowbench really worth it for this kind of build or would that be better suited for the pros trying to make as much horsepower from their build?

Luis998 · 03-06-2008, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

Here's a good topic for you; Question about Oversize Valves: Nissan & Infiniti Engineering Talk: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub

If you get your head ported, you should most definitely spend the $45 to get it flowbenched. That will tell you how the head flows at a given RPM and valve lift.

Awesome man. Thanks for the link.

I will definitely do that when I get my head ported. I'm sure the machinist will let me know how that will help me out later on.

Luis998 · 03-06-2008, 03:55 PM

What does the term "tulip" mean when it refers to the valves?

By the way all, the link Blanco posted Question about Oversize Valves: Nissan & Infiniti Engineering Talk: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub will really help answer questions about over sized valves and any advantages/disadvantages for you. It did for me anyways.

Luis998 · 03-06-2008, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

That helps with picking the cam profile. You match the lift and duration to the point where flow is greatest.

[edit]
Here's another good link; Cylinder Head

Regarding flow, the tulip is the physical shape of the airflow coming into the engine around the intake valves. A proper flow will look an unbloomed tulip. The goal of valve work is to get a perfectly formed tulip from each intake valve. Can't for the life of me find a picture of it now, though.

This is something I've toyed with buying; Head & Intake Porting Secrets
[/edit]

Here's a fun picture for you, just to illustrate how complex this all is.

Mmmmm, more to learn from. Sweet! Believe it or not, I have a binder with all sorts of information that is pertinent in helping me with my build, as well as other things that have caught my interest in the past. (an LSVTEC build is one of those things, though it seems a tad bit more than I could handle right now)

Luis998 · 03-06-2008, 11:34 PM

Would a "block guard" be a good idea for this type of build? Granted, since I am giving myself such a long time to complete it, my goals will most likely be upped a tad.

Also, what is the function of a block guard?

Luis998 · 03-07-2008, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

If you're considering higher power levels, might as well bite the bullet and go with sleeves. Block guards can drastically reduce the flow of coolant.

Anything is possible at this point, Scott. I've priced sleeves around and wooooo, they are not cheap. However, the peace of mind that they offer seem to be well worth it. I was actually considering sleeves for my D build, but that's a topic for another day.

On a side note (it's been a while since I've had one of these) my boss just called me and told me that because the volume is down (I'm a Supervisor at UPS and the volume is down by 467,000+ pieces) my hours on the only day I was able to make overtime have been cut. What does this mean to me? Well, I have to be REALLY careful on what I buy for my build and yes, it puts a SEVERE hindrance on my build, period. *sigh* It's depressing, but I'll figure something out. A second job is looking like the only solution to this problem. However, a second job will also hurt a lot, like it did before, and will mean that I will not have any down time, or time to breathe. *double sigh* Now I'm REALLY contemplating parting out my block, just to help things out for a bit. Though my hour cut is not permanent, it will hurt as long as it will last. (right now it's looking like a month and a half to two months)

Luis998 · 03-07-2008, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

Well, might be time to think about cutting one of the builds back for a bit. Maybe go ahead and throw the head on that B16 block and call it done for now. Then when things pick back up you can build another shortblock up on the side.

That would be the "ideal" thing to do right now, except for one tinsy, winsy, little problem my dear friend. *bows head in shame* I don't have a tranny for the B16.

Yes, that's right, my stupid ass was only half way into buying parts when the proverbial "shit" hit the fan. I did manage to snag a full D swap and an Si tranny for it, but as far as the B goes, yeah, I only have the head and block. Plus, I never mentioned this before, but the head does not have anything from the valve train in it besides the valves and is currently sitting in the back room in quite a few pieces. Cutting back is exactly what I'm going to have to do and just embellish myself in a ton of research for a while. This, as you know, is something I do not mind doing at all.

philyphreak2127 · 03-07-2008, 02:08 AM

bummer man sorry to hear your hours got cut. that shit sucks! What all parts do you have with the b16 block you have right now? Sorry if I missed where it was posted.

Luis998 · 03-07-2008, 02:24 AM

I think it was posted in page three or so. Eh, it's all good. I have an almost complete JDM B16 block (it's missing the alternator) with Eagle rods and no pistons yet. I may part out the block. I'm not sure yet. That's about it.

Luis998 · 03-07-2008, 12:45 PM

From what I have been reading lately, it seems like any ECU that is "chip-able" would work for this set-up. The reason for this is once the build is finished (ten thousand years from now) the tuner will be able to chip and re-program it. Now then, since I will be running OBD1 or rather, an OBD1 conversion, would a P28 do as good of a job as say, a P30 or a P72?

Luis998 · 03-07-2008, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

Oi, that sounds like one helluva cluster fuck. It'll work itself out though. I ended up building my Z6 because my grand dreams for a turbo'd GSR were just too expensive for me to justify.

And yeah, P28s are pretty much the standard solution.

Amen to having two of them then. That'll help me out a lot further down the road. I got an unbelievable deal on both too, which makes things a lot sweeter.

Luis998 · 03-07-2008, 11:57 PM

Someone please tell me the difference between H-rods and I-rods. Thank you.

Luis998 · 03-08-2008, 03:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

Do you know what an H-beam is, like for construction? An h-beam rod looks like that. An i-beam rod looks more like a stock rod.

I believe so. Would it be about preference on the design or is one better or stronger, if you will, than the other?

Luis998 · 03-08-2008, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

Here ya' go; H beam vs I beam

I can't find the little "worship guy" icon to show some respect and thank you, so the "head smashing bunny" will have to do for now. haha Thanks man. I REALLY appreciate it.

Luis998 · 03-08-2008, 07:49 PM

Here are the specs to the Skunk2 stage 2 turbo cams I would like to run in my set up...

Intake Duration/ Lift: 231°/ 11.0
Exhaust Duration/ Lift: 236°/ 10.6
Intake Center (ATDC): 104
Exhaust Center (BTDC): 110
Clearance Intake/ Exhaust: .007'/ .008'

Now then, I believe it might have been LSVTEC who told me that he ran GSR cams in a turbo set up and made well over 500+hp. (I think he said that somewhere in my thread. haha) I know for a fact that when choosing cams, you need to pick them out for your specific application. With that said, how would GSR cams compare to these? If anyone has specs on those I would greatly appreciate it. Sorry for not posting this question before when the topic was being talked about, but I just thought about it. Gracias.

P.S. I'm still trying to figure out the duration/lift in cams, so please bear with me.

Luis998 · 03-08-2008, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

You can find the specs for B18C1 cams here; Crower Cams & Equipment - Honda Camshafts - B Series VTEC

11.0mm = .433"
10.6mm = .418"

I hope your wife tells you daily that you never cease to amaze her, because that's how I feel. haha I never get tired of saying THANK YOU to you, Scott. Thanks again man.

gunsnbam · 03-08-2008, 09:51 PM

Luis998 · 03-09-2008, 01:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blanco

She says that I'm her hero, actually.

You're welcome yet again. A lot of times I pop over to Google and type in exactly what I'm looking for. Example, a search for "mm to inch" will bring up a calculator. I got the rod topic by searching for "i-beam versus h-beam". The more you get into this stuff to easier it is to search things out.

You're something all right. haha

I'm a Google-a-holic when it comes to searching for things. It's a great tool to use, something I wish SOME people would actually learn to do and....

Asshats I tell you. Lazy asshats.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunsnbam

nvm

*raises eyebrow* Never mind? Ask, talk darn you, TALK! SAY IT! I would like to know what was on your mind. Had you REALLY not wanted to say anything, you would have just deleted your post. You obviously have something on your mind my friend. Please, chime in. I promise *cocks shotgun* not to hurt you for *loads bazooka* posting in here. *aims at face* At best we might both learn something from each other. *readies death ray* So please, feel free to speak freely. *sets charges around 'submit reply button'*

Luis998 · 03-09-2008, 01:56 AM

OH! Something that I've been wanting to ask and learn about for a LONG TIME! Oil squirters! I know that GSR blocks have them, not really sure if B16's have them (which I assume that they would since it's almost the same darn thing) and know that B18a/b's and B20's don't have them. I think I have a slight idea what their function is, but please, someone enlighten me. What is their primary purpose and how can say, an LS/VTEC survive without them?

I ask because nothing is edged in stone as far as my block goes and the temptation to get my hands on a B20 block is always there, though I already have a B16 block with Eagle Rods to start out with. (I think I'm leaning towards a GSR block in the end. At least that's what the voices keep on telling me.)

newb · 03-09-2008, 08:08 PM

I read once that oil squirters can actually become a problem because under high stress circumstances they can blow a small amount of oil up past the rings into the chambers. Is there any truth there?

Luis998 · 03-09-2008, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newb

I read once that oil squirters can actually become a problem because under high stress circumstances they can blow a small amount of oil up past the rings into the chambers. Is there any truth there?

O'reeeeeeeeeeeally? Hmm, that's news to me. If anyone else has heard about this or has had any type of negative experience with oil squirters (engine related, not some kinky story) I'd like to hear about it.

philyphreak2127 · 03-10-2008, 02:57 AM

couldn't tell you about that but ls/vtecs stand up well without the oil squirters. Especially if you go with forged internals. I may not have mentioned it in here but a buddy of mine is runnin a b20 block and b16 head almost the same build you have goin except the cams. and he has had no problems. awesome car just with the head build, he still plans on goin with forged internals then slappin his turbo kit on but if anything craps out til then I will let you know what, how, and when so you know.

Luis998 · 03-10-2008, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by philyphreak2127

couldn't tell you about that but ls/vtecs stand up well without the oil squirters. Especially if you go with forged internals. I may not have mentioned it in here but a buddy of mine is runnin a b20 block and b16 head almost the same build you have goin except the cams. and he has had no problems. awesome car just with the head build, he still plans on goin with forged internals then slappin his turbo kit on but if anything craps out til then I will let you know what, how, and when so you know.

Hey thanks man. I really appreciate your input. Feel free to list what your friends set up is like. I'm always curious to know what works and what has not worked in other builds so I do not commit the same mistake.

03-07-2008, 02:08 AM	#85
philyphreak2127 The name's Sam Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: morrison, co Age: 20 Posts: 1,510 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 98 civic dx sedan, 80 trans am Blog Entries: 1 Rep Power: 26	bummer man sorry to hear your hours got cut. that shit sucks! What all parts do you have with the b16 block you have right now? Sorry if I missed where it was posted. __________________ Parts for sale: http://hondaswap.com/parts-sale-trad...-parts-115446/ Build Threads: Civic: http://hondaswap.com/civic-del-sol-eg-ek/d16y8-n-build-112401/5.html Trans Am: http://hondaswap.com/other-vehicle-discussions/1980-trans-am-build-thread-oh-yeah-its-official-149941/#post1054318

03-08-2008, 09:51 PM	#94
gunsnbam Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 47 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 4	nvm Last edited by gunsnbam; 03-08-2008 at 10:03 PM.

03-10-2008, 02:57 AM	#99
philyphreak2127 The name's Sam Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: morrison, co Age: 20 Posts: 1,510 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 98 civic dx sedan, 80 trans am Blog Entries: 1 Rep Power: 26	couldn't tell you about that but ls/vtecs stand up well without the oil squirters. Especially if you go with forged internals. I may not have mentioned it in here but a buddy of mine is runnin a b20 block and b16 head almost the same build you have goin except the cams. and he has had no problems. awesome car just with the head build, he still plans on goin with forged internals then slappin his turbo kit on but if anything craps out til then I will let you know what, how, and when so you know. __________________ Parts for sale: http://hondaswap.com/parts-sale-trad...-parts-115446/ Build Threads: Civic: http://hondaswap.com/civic-del-sol-eg-ek/d16y8-n-build-112401/5.html Trans Am: http://hondaswap.com/other-vehicle-discussions/1980-trans-am-build-thread-oh-yeah-its-official-149941/#post1054318

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03-09-2008, 01:56 AM	#96
Luis998 Honda Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Orlando, Florida Age: 33 Posts: 2,848 iTrader: 4 / 100% Ride: '94 EG sedan w /Z6, '97 EK hatch Rep Power: 103	OH! Something that I've been wanting to ask and learn about for a LONG TIME! Oil squirters! I know that GSR blocks have them, not really sure if B16's have them (which I assume that they would since it's almost the same darn thing) and know that B18a/b's and B20's don't have them. I think I have a slight idea what their function is, but please, someone enlighten me. What is their primary purpose and how can say, an LS/VTEC survive without them? I ask because nothing is edged in stone as far as my block goes and the temptation to get my hands on a B20 block is always there, though I already have a B16 block with Eagle Rods to start out with. (I think I'm leaning towards a GSR block in the end. At least that's what the voices keep on telling me.)

03-09-2008, 08:08 PM	#97
newb is lol'ing @ you Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Backwoods Northwest Posts: 2,014 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: '98 Z28 Blog Entries: 4 Rep Power: 88	I read once that oil squirters can actually become a problem because under high stress circumstances they can blow a small amount of oil up past the rings into the chambers. Is there any truth there?

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B16A2 head build....(prepare for some long wind)