SleEPeR_CRX

Hey boys, well as many of u know i have been thinking of making a 13 second all motor B18a. But i also know, that without turbo or the bottle i wont be hitting much lower than 13.8's if im lucky with stock tranny. i work at mcdonalds so $$ IS A HUGE issue, so i want to make sure i do the best bang for the buck, and still have it streetable.so far i have come up with a few things to do for N/A and nothing for turbo b/c i havent really looked into it yet. tell me what u would do and if my product build sounds ok.

N/A
Big cams-Colt cam regrinds(i know u hate em but i have friends running 12's that swear by them) or Crowers
4-2-1 Header(no space to fit 4-1's)
B&M FPR, B u said this is shit, so what else is there?
ACT clutch is in mail
lighten flywheel.


this is all i have really thought about to get a start on the N/A
I was thinking of later P/P'ing the head, or putting a b18b head on it? would it work? be worth it?

Ok now what i really need help on is turbo issue. i know it would be cheaper and more practical to get a faster car with a turbo, but with funding how it is, its easier to buy small things over a longer period of time, than save ( i hate saving). Im only looking for 6-8 Psi of boost, i want to keep internals stock. what else do i have to do to make a 6-8 Psi turbo work? Injectors? FPR?Boost gauge? EGT gauge? to make it work properly and most efficient whats the best things to get? would my 2.25" exhaust be big enough? or get 2.5"? or 2.75"? please tell me what would be the best thing to do. keep in mind $$$ please, i dont have 5g's to drop into my car.

Thanks

__________________
Sleepers Are the Only way to Go.
1990 CRX Si
B18a(92) CAI/E, Gutted, ACT clutch/pressure plate/13lb flywheel, Crower 403 Cams, Titanium Valve springs & Retainers, Blockguard, Head Milled 20 thou, 9.8:1 Compression, AEM cam gears.
1/4 = 14.73
60' = 2.48
trap = 95.03mph
Soon to get: Header, Slicks
Future 13 second all motor LS!

E_SolSi

13s on a build all motor LS in a CRX should be easy
go with the crower cams

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МОΛΏΝ ΛΑΒΈ

dvus1

if you change the head to a B16 will it make more faster...

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<a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/images/s3f988ecba123d.jpg\' target=\'_blank\'>RL</a>
<a href=\'http://www.hondaswap.com/gallery/images/s3f9930845a568.jpg\' target=\'_blank\'>88 HB/ B18a</a>

JDMilan

A GSR tranny would make it nice, i agree with E to go with the crower cams or you could get stupid and use a b16 head and use toda vtec killer cams and run no vtec at all.


Milan

__________________
<span style=\"color:red\">&quot;92 Blue EG&quot;</span>
-Project 3 - Motor A (NA stock SiR longblock B16 EG/S1tran)
14.3@97 15&quot; radial tires &amp; Gutted
-Project 3 - Motor B (NA stock SiRII longblock B16 EG/S4tran)
13.3@103 MT's &amp; Gutted
<span style=\"color:red\">&quot;Goldy S13&quot;</span>
-Project 4 - Motor A (FI SR20DET w/T28 &quot;Under Construction&quot
<span style=\"color:red\">&quot;Silver E46&quot;</span>
-Project 5 - Motor A (???)

SleEPeR_CRX

well #1, i dont have the experiance to do a LS/Vtec even tho it would be nice, also it would probably cost as much as a low buck turbo build, b/c i would sleeve it and make sure it was bulletproof. #2 yes a 92-93 GSR tranny would be nice, but i dont want to be at 5000 RPM's on the freeway, I have a friend trying to make a b16a 1-4th gears and LS 5th, but he hasnt started and is still in the planning stages, so i cant do anything about the tranny. also ive dont some looking and it seems a turbo will cost $3500+ canadian for the setup, which is to much for me right now, so ill probably end up going N/A. Can someone give me a good list of parts i should get and things i should do to get my b18a into the high 13's. so far all thats done( or coming soon) is
CAI
2.25" Exhaust
ACT clutch and lightned flywheel(coming soon)

__________________
Sleepers Are the Only way to Go.
1990 CRX Si
B18a(92) CAI/E, Gutted, ACT clutch/pressure plate/13lb flywheel, Crower 403 Cams, Titanium Valve springs &amp; Retainers, Blockguard, Head Milled 20 thou, 9.8:1 Compression, AEM cam gears.
1/4 = 14.73
60' = 2.48
trap = 95.03mph
Soon to get: Header, Slicks
Future 13 second all motor LS!

lsvtec

You want more compression if you are running NA. Get some B16 pistons. That will be ~11.3:1.

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v3sw7+9Chw6ln3pr7Ock4ma9w3TXm3l7GDF i7Ce6+8t4MNb8Oen6g6RAOa26s5MRp6 hackerkey.com

SleEPeR_CRX

Can the LS block and head hold that high of compression tho?

__________________
Sleepers Are the Only way to Go.
1990 CRX Si
B18a(92) CAI/E, Gutted, ACT clutch/pressure plate/13lb flywheel, Crower 403 Cams, Titanium Valve springs &amp; Retainers, Blockguard, Head Milled 20 thou, 9.8:1 Compression, AEM cam gears.
1/4 = 14.73
60' = 2.48
trap = 95.03mph
Soon to get: Header, Slicks
Future 13 second all motor LS!

lsvtec

Yes. My LS Block holds 11.5:1 with a .5mm overbore just fine.

__________________
v3sw7+9Chw6ln3pr7Ock4ma9w3TXm3l7GDF i7Ce6+8t4MNb8Oen6g6RAOa26s5MRp6 hackerkey.com

SleEPeR_CRX

still need more help on what to do.

__________________
Sleepers Are the Only way to Go.
1990 CRX Si
B18a(92) CAI/E, Gutted, ACT clutch/pressure plate/13lb flywheel, Crower 403 Cams, Titanium Valve springs &amp; Retainers, Blockguard, Head Milled 20 thou, 9.8:1 Compression, AEM cam gears.
1/4 = 14.73
60' = 2.48
trap = 95.03mph
Soon to get: Header, Slicks
Future 13 second all motor LS!

E_SolSi

JDM B16A SiR-2 pistons
crower 402 or 403 cams
crower valve springs / retainers
PnP head
ARP head studs
reprogramed LS ECU to alow the engine to rev to where those came will be making peak power and give proper fuel
cam gears so you can set the cams up properly


other items that would help out :
LSD
GSR tranny w/ LSD
Skunk2 intake manifold
larger TB
etc etc

__________________

МОΛΏΝ ΛΑΒΈ

gocivicls

I am in the same boat, not alot of cash but alot of ideas............I have a 95 integra LS in my 95 civic coupe full interior. I love the torky little monster. I have done a lot of looking around and talking and I came with this for my N/A LS.


Upgraded my ECU with a do it yourself kit from ebay 14.00. Was easy and now my rev limiter is 8500 so i have room for cams...

Bullfrog GUDE cams(regrinds) .418 lift and 236 duration w/ valve springs

I/H/ custom 2 1/4 exhaust no cat or resinator w/ tanabe RM muffler

OBX short throw shifter

Nitto Drag radials

4.7 final drive in my LS Tranny or GSR

P30 CTR pistons on my Shotpenned LS rods

B&M fuel presure regulator

ACT HD/SS clutch

Some of these I have done and some are on the way but this my plan and write now I am out running GSR's with the same mods.

[b]I forgot to mention that I can drive like hell!!!!!!

good luck!!!!!!!

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<span style=\'color:red\'>14.2:1 CR LS with 405A's and working out the bugs</span>
<u>Fastest 60ft</u>
1.78
<u>Best ET on 1/8th</u>
8.42
<u>Fastest MPH</u>
82.23 mph

All Motor LS (B18B) <span style=\'color:green\'>Hasn't been tuned yet!</span>

asmallsol

2 things that suck in your list

OBX short throw shifter

Nitto Drag radials


Nitto tires are over rated and over priced. Short throw shifters are also a waste of money and hell, with my stock sol shifter, I can shift faster then then syncros will alow. Next OBX anything blows. You'll be throwing it into 2nd one time then you will snap off the gear shifter.



E. You forgot to mention some new rod bolts. The Stock LS rod bolts can not withstand that kind of revs where the 403's are happy.

__________________
Collin
Material Science and Engineering
Michigan Technological University

E_SolSi

oops
i guess that could fall under the "etc etc" part




gude stuf kinda sucks... if you havent gotten it yet id suggest something else

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МОΛΏΝ ΛΑΒΈ

lsvtec

The stock LS rod bolts can hold 8000 RPM. Does anyone have a specific case where stock LS rod bolts have failed at or before 8000 RPM where GSR/ITR would have held?

The key here is ARP rod bolts (the factory replacement ones) cost only $55 (at the most). A very cheap insurance policy.

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v3sw7+9Chw6ln3pr7Ock4ma9w3TXm3l7GDF i7Ce6+8t4MNb8Oen6g6RAOa26s5MRp6 hackerkey.com

gocivicls

Shotpenned LS Rods if done right can hold up to 400 hp and 10k RPMs so I hear any way............

OBX short throw shifters suck??????? (ASmallsol) Quoted

They are all the same some are just shorter than others, Besides the only reason I got one is because I am bad to grind second at the track because I cant push the clutch in as fast as I shift!

Dont say anything about my driving skills either because I pull 2.17 sixty foot times with my civic coupe/ LS motor/ and street tires.

__________________
<span style=\'color:red\'>14.2:1 CR LS with 405A's and working out the bugs</span>
<u>Fastest 60ft</u>
1.78
<u>Best ET on 1/8th</u>
8.42
<u>Fastest MPH</u>
82.23 mph

All Motor LS (B18B) <span style=\'color:green\'>Hasn't been tuned yet!</span>

JDMilan

good 60 footers with radials, obx does suck and so do 99.9% of all short shifters, and i would personaly replace the rods anways if you are doing a complete rebuild, it's best to do that since the motor is already apart once.


Milan

__________________
<span style=\"color:red\">&quot;92 Blue EG&quot;</span>
-Project 3 - Motor A (NA stock SiR longblock B16 EG/S1tran)
14.3@97 15&quot; radial tires &amp; Gutted
-Project 3 - Motor B (NA stock SiRII longblock B16 EG/S4tran)
13.3@103 MT's &amp; Gutted
<span style=\"color:red\">&quot;Goldy S13&quot;</span>
-Project 4 - Motor A (FI SR20DET w/T28 &quot;Under Construction&quot
<span style=\"color:red\">&quot;Silver E46&quot;</span>
-Project 5 - Motor A (???)

asmallsol

ummm Yep. The metal that they use blows. One time your going to slam it into second and then the shifter will snap. As milan said, 99.9% of short shifter blow. DC sport, APC, OBX, Ractive, ebay, ect will all end up snapping. Also if your grinding, it is not because you cant shift fast enough, it is because the syncos cant shift enough and the short shifter is not helping.

__________________
Collin
Material Science and Engineering
Michigan Technological University