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This is a discussion on Begginers Guide to Performance in the Engine Building forum
A few things to look at before getting started with a performance plan. You might be in a different category so read which one you will be in. Make sure to view this page in a full alone screen . Levels Stage I Stage II ...
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|01-24-2007, 07:47 PM||#1|
Begginers Guide to Performance
A few things to look at before getting started with a performance plan. You might be in a different category so read which one you will be in.
Make sure to view this page in a full alone screen.LevelsStage IStage IIStage IIIStage IVStage VStage VIStage VIIGainsFree Home-made PlanHome Made intake and K+N
2-5hpHand Port and Polish exhaust ports
1-2hpPolish Throttle Body
1-3hpHollow Cat / Weld-In Test Pipe.
2-5hpRemove Power Steering Belt
2-3hp 9hp-18hpHidden Performance
$2000-6000Drop In K+N Filter $80
2-5hpThrottle Body $250
4-6hpExtrude Hone the Stock Header
3-4hpTest Pipe/HF. cat/ Or hollow $100-300
5-10hp1.6L Dohc VTEC can upgrade to a 1.8L Bottom end
More hp/tqRace Head
5-50hpHidden Nitrous System
Cost $400-700Cheap Intake $100
5-8hpNice Header $300
7-9hpThrottle Body $250
3-6hp 15hp-24hpSimple Plan
Cost $800-1200Cold Air Intake $230
8-12hpThrottle Body $250
4-6hp 27hp-31hpBudget Racer
$1300-2200Cold Air Intake $230
8-12hpThrottle Body $250
4-6hpUnderdrive pulleys $250
4-5hpCam Sprocket $250
2hp-5hp. 31hp-51hpStreet Monster
$2500-5000Turbo Basic $2500-4000
70-110hpTest Pipe/HF. cat $100-300
6-10hpUnderdrive pulleys $250
6-8hpCam Sprocket $250
5hp-10hpWires / Spark Plugs $150
2hp-4hp104hp-167hpAll out race
Cost 10,000-????Custom Race Turbo
200-400hpElectronic / Fuel Race Ignition
10-30hpCustom Race Exhaust
12-20hpRace Intake Manifold
These plans are just for helping you figure out which way to go. How much horsepower to expect and perhaps what category restrictions you might be limited too. For the hidden performance its for those that want to either look stock for just fun or to hide it from the dealer or anyone else. These results might not be exact , but these are tried and true real world prices and dyno's that provide the info. Also the parts used are just some of the parts that can be used. Of course there's more to add on to some or some can skip some and use some of there own. These parts were selected by there availability and popularity. More exotic parts and others weren't used since they basically don't do much or are really hard to get.
As For Suspension Goes its simple....pay more handle better. Stage IStage IIStage IIIStage IVStage VSuspension PlanSpring Only
$100-200Spring and Shocks-Non Adjustable
$400-800Spring and Adjustable Shocks
$1200-1500Full Race Coil-Overs
$1500-2200Explanation - About the suspension changes and difference in levels.Quick easy install , some kits lower too much for looks and you get a unsettled ride which isnt good for high speed bumps. Stock shocks will soon go.Now you have something to work with , even though they might be out of synch.This one you have a lot more to work with , you can adjust the shocks at least to try to match the springs and the car better. Yet still probably wont have a lot of travel, and you might just get a product that doesnt go well togetherThese systems if really made for your car handle the best can be tuned like the stageIII but also have a bit more spring rate, ride height and travel. Which can help a lot. Street / Drag or CourseAgain just like stage IV but probably a higher known competition name or perhaps the shocks will have their own reservoir....which sometimes are controlled electronically from the car.
Brakes , bigger better stronger....pay morestop quicker. Stage IStage IIStage IIIStage IVStage VBraking PlanSports/Race Pads Only
$100-200Pads and Rotors
$400-800Sport Brake kit
$700-1000Race Brake Kits
$1100-1500All out race.
$1500-2000Explanation - About the brake changes.Upgrading to more efficient brake pads, some might cause some sound or more brake dust so watch out.Slotted Rotors are suggested for Street Cars and race pads will do. Just make sure their not some crazy kind that need to be real hot. Also good to add race/dot4 brake fluid.Great for the street, possible new caliper, might need bigger rims. If your not really going fast then this might be overkill, but then again you might like safety. Also consider changing lines.Made for high heat all the time applications , more emphasis on cooling and anything to do to slow down. This is because on the track you are on the brakes a lot. The street you brake a bit and then cruise. Just like before but Anything from really oversized rotors & dual calipers .To materials made to handle anything. These kits will make any street tire the bottle-neck for braking faster.
im so jdm i sleep on the right side of the bed..
|01-24-2007, 10:42 PM||#3|
anyone notice that they don't say anything about going all motor? like they go from talking about bolt ons right to a turbo, wtf wheres the block build up, i would think that they would have at least included that in the monster build part, i'm gonna have to give it a big thumbs down for anything good
|01-27-2007, 03:57 PM||#6|
It feels too "idiots guide to tuning" for me, and the last thing I want is more idiots in the car scene. No thank you.
I didn't agree with a lot of the pricing and the upgrade structures. It was a lot more directed and focused then the way that a lot of people put their cars together for sure, but, as far as building a REAL car goes, not so much. It's not as simple as it's making it look by any stretch.
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