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Old 01-02-2008, 07:02 AM   #1
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Default engine build help b18b1 in 97 ex civic

I am building a b18b1 obd1(already in the car) with turbo. I am using the greddy kit with a fmic. I have an aem fuel rail ,330 injectors b&m fuel pressure regulator with vison 6 bolt adjustable cam gears with gates racing turbo belts(all of them). I have a -6an fuel line from the filter to the rail, msd extermal blaster ss coil and msd dizzy cap what else can i do to my car to get the most out of the power? Yes, i can do the work myself with no issues( i did all the work so far myself). I just want it reliable but fast I have the German autobahns to drive on so speed limits are not an issue. No, I don't want to hit 170, just fast enough to have fun. I know the tranny is weak and the clutch needs upgraded but not sure which one(clutch) to use. I also am having my intake manifold ported and polished to match the throttle body(68mm). Oh and yes I have a true 3 inch cat back exhaust, I have the thermal research turbo one, stock cat for now.

I also did the suspession right. skunk2 PRO SERIES PLUS front camber kit, Energy Suspension Bushing Kit, ksport lower control arms, Ksport Rear Toe Kit so far. I will buy my full coilovers and braces this week just not sure which ones I want. Stock ecu also as seeing I have not found any tuners over here yet.

This what I have so far but want more so please stear me in the right direction.
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Old 01-02-2008, 07:58 AM   #2
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What do you want to know?
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Old 01-02-2008, 10:47 AM   #3
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were to get more power out of the car? Were to send my ecu to get chipped or how to do it with what? Is there anything I have left out to make the most of my power. oh, and how do you cut a valve cover.
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:36 PM   #4
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what are you cutting a valve cover for and where are you doing it?!?also what is done to the internals of the motor??there are many places to have an ecu sent to be chipped,you can go to rywire.com or one of my boys got a complete chipped ecu with a basemap for his car,,it depends on how much cash you have,what your power goals are,and if its a daily driver,also the tranny you use depends on what you want in the end..
do you want a car that will reach 120 in a matter of seconds or do you want a car that will reach lets say...160 in a matter of minutes...(these arent real numbers just aroundaabout)as for clutch stage 2..should suit your need..get act,exedy,and zoom even makes good products
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:41 PM   #5
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I want to cut the valve cover so I don't have to pull it off to adjust the cams. I do alot of road courses and high way driving. As far as power goal it will be around 200 to 250 marker. Engine rebuild will not happen till I move back to America next year. I can do the head with new valves and cams but thats it. it is way to much money over here in Germany to port and polish and multi angle valve jobs. I am looking at the crower turbo cams but not sure which valves to use with these cams I will be calling crower to ask for advice on this set up for sure.

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Old 01-02-2008, 05:13 PM   #6
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I want to cut the valve cover so I don't have to pull it off to adjust the cams. I do alot of road courses and high way driving. As far as power goal it will be around 200 to 250 marker. Engine rebuild will not happen till I move back to America next year. I can do the head with new valves and cams but thats it. it is way to much money over here in Germany to port and polish and multi angle valve jobs. I am looking at the crower turbo cams but not sure which valves to use with these cams I will be calling crower to ask for advice on this set up for sure.
Set your cam gears on the dyno and leave them there. It might feel like you're picking something up, but even a 2* adjustment past optimum will lose you a significant amount of power. Unless, of course, you're one of those people who feels the need to drive down the highway at peak power in 3rd gear.

What do you mean what valves to use with that cam profile? Use whatever valves you want, as long as you have the valve/valve and piston/valve clearance you're fine. A few measurements will tell you all you need to know about that.
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Old 01-02-2008, 05:18 PM   #7
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250 is easy with your setup..just the turbo and tune will get you alot of power..
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Old 01-03-2008, 02:11 AM   #8
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Set your cam gears on the dyno and leave them there. It might feel like you're picking something up, but even a 2* adjustment past optimum will lose you a significant amount of power. Unless, of course, you're one of those people who feels the need to drive down the highway at peak power in 3rd gear.

What do you mean what valves to use with that cam profile? Use whatever valves you want, as long as you have the valve/valve and piston/valve clearance you're fine. A few measurements will tell you all you need to know about that.
i just want the valve cover cut so the tuner spends less time taking the cover off when tuning. As far as the valves go I keep reading about high lift valves but by the specs of the cams I don't think I need those. I am calling crower today to get a full setup from them I.E. cams, valves and springs that all work together perfectly. I just need to check on valve guides and seats next so I can start to rebuild the head while all my powder coating and body work is being done. Also what size head gasket should I use and from which company. i have looked into Cometic Head Gasket , METAL HEAD GASKET, COPPER HEAD GASKET, BUDDY CLUB HEAD GASKET and Mugen Head Gasket. The stock is a 3 layer and I have scene 2 layer or multi layer and so on. I get the thinner it is the more compression it makes. What is the best material for boost in your alls opinion?
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:02 AM   #9
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i just want the valve cover cut so the tuner spends less time taking the cover off when tuning. As far as the valves go I keep reading about high lift valves but by the specs of the cams I don't think I need those. I am calling crower today to get a full setup from them I.E. cams, valves and springs that all work together perfectly. I just need to check on valve guides and seats next so I can start to rebuild the head while all my powder coating and body work is being done. Also what size head gasket should I use and from which company. i have looked into Cometic Head Gasket , METAL HEAD GASKET, COPPER HEAD GASKET, BUDDY CLUB HEAD GASKET and Mugen Head Gasket. The stock is a 3 layer and I have scene 2 layer or multi layer and so on. I get the thinner it is the more compression it makes. What is the best material for boost in your alls opinion?
Wow, you're going on half information. You're reading about high valve lift, not high lift valves. BIG difference. You don't need new valves unless there's something wrong with your stock valves. Newbies always seem to think they need to change valves when they changes cams. Not so, at all. The valves seats are part of the cylinder head, so you won't be checking on or buying them from anywhere. Look up "valve job" to see what that's about. The best head gasket for your goals is OEM Honda/Acura. You can slap a turbo on a bone stock B18 and get the horsepower goal you're looking for and it'll still be reliable depending on the tune.
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One study at UCLA indicated that up to 93 percent of communication effectiveness is determined by nonverbal cues. Another study indicated that the impact of a performance was determined 7 percent by the words used, 38 percent by voice quality, and 55 percent by the nonverbal communication.
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:25 AM   #10
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Cool works for me. I do need to read more about valve jobs before I do this. I have read that you can flout a valve if you take the rpm's up to high so at least wanted to install dual valve springs to stop that from ever happening. I just thought the stock cam spec were not designed for forced induction so why not buy a set that are designed for it. I have to leave the bottom half stock till the car goes back to america so I can build it right. There are to many rules over here to get it done the way I want it.
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:35 AM   #11
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Blanco is correct.

I made right around 240 with my 60/63 budget build.

I second going with an OEM HG
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:46 AM   #12
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Ok, so the cams and dual valve springs are not needed? Will the springs stop valve flotting(I think this is what they call it) if I take the rpm to high?
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:14 AM   #13
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It'd really not needed for your power goal. If you want a slightly higher RPM get em. And cams will net higher gains.
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:16 AM   #14
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When you upgrade past a "stage one" cam profile you risk valve float, so you upgrade the valve springs at the same time. Like b18b1 said, you don't need aftermarket cams but they will make more power over stock cams.
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One study at UCLA indicated that up to 93 percent of communication effectiveness is determined by nonverbal cues. Another study indicated that the impact of a performance was determined 7 percent by the words used, 38 percent by voice quality, and 55 percent by the nonverbal communication.
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:25 AM   #15
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+1

You can turbo your stock B18 and get the power you want. Just make sure you have proper fuel management and a good tune and you will be fine.

Have fun!
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Old 01-03-2008, 03:01 PM   #16
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Well, for fuel system so far I have an AEM fuel rail. -6an fuel lines and B&M fuel presure regulator also parts from the Greddy Trust Turbo kit=310cc Injector, Fuel management (E-MANAGEMENT).
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:32 PM   #17
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How are you going to get the extra fuel to the rail?
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One study at UCLA indicated that up to 93 percent of communication effectiveness is determined by nonverbal cues. Another study indicated that the impact of a performance was determined 7 percent by the words used, 38 percent by voice quality, and 55 percent by the nonverbal communication.
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Old 01-04-2008, 01:04 AM   #18
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Sorry I forgot to post my walbro 255 pump.
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