How to get 270-300 whp N/A JDM ITR ??

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EvoIX4me

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Ok i know that this is a very big number to hit for a N/A B- Series . What is needed to get to these numbers , I have about 3,000 to spend on motor work / mods .

What i have so far

96 spec JDM ITR B18C
-Rage- Hytech header
-2.5 inch exhaust no cat
-AEM Hybrid CAI
-Toda Cam Gears
-Toda Cams
-Hasport Race motor mounts

Future mods :

Hondata
Hondata intake manifold gasket
Toda flywheel
ACT Clutch ??
Extensive tuning
Port and Polish
Higher compression pistion maybe 12:1 or 13:1 ( i know i would need race gas )
310 cc injectors



Will i even be close to my numbers with these mods or dor i need to stroke the motor to a 2.0 L ??? ;)


i wanna run at battle of the imports in palmdale when is it ?
 
your on the right track, but your current list is well over 3,000 bucks

might wanna check out rocket cams or skunk 2 pro 2. hondata = :thumbsup: (although crome is a free/cheaper alternative)

if i were to do this, i upgrade the rods (eagle h beams are the popular choice),
upgrade the pistons (ctr pistons are a good choice for a monster NA itr....that puts you a little over 12:1 compression)
might wanna mill the head to get a little more compression out of it.
then, as i mentioned before, the cams, s2p2 and rocket are the biggest boys on the street (and the strip)
a new clutch is definitely a good idea since this is gonna be a sizable step up.
new flywheel is also good....anything to drop the drive train loss.
open exhaust really isnt a necessity, most metallic core high flow cats are very good (i recommend magnaflow)
headwork is also a must, but i wouldnt recommend letting anyone do it. different kinds of performance require different work, and thats gonna be the interesting part. finding an engine builder you trust.
310cc injectors should be alright. i dont remember if the integra has a resistor box or not, but if it does, you can always go with the DSM 390s or 450s (cheap and abundant on ebay)
you really dont need to shell out the cash of an AEM CAI. A ebay pipe with a new k&n filter should be fine.

those are of course all my opinions on how to build a B BEAST, but it is your cash and your baby. and if you want your baby to have a long life, heed this warning. DO NOT DRIVE THE BUILT ENGINE WITHOUT TUNING FIRST!!!1!11ONE!

you CAN run 12:1 compression on pump gas, just make sure you trust your tuner and have a good break in period (preferably broken in on the dyno)

I dont think youll need to stroke the engine to hit your goal, but itd make it torquier....but ive seen the 1.8L break 250. Tuning is the biggest part of achieving that goal.
 
Also, just because it is the most expensive, doesn't mean it's the best. There are cheaper alternatives to the parts you listed(toda being the main one) that actually perform better or at least the same.

High power n/a engines aren't known for reliability. So, like reiko said, make sure you have strong internals to support the power you will be making. Everyone here will also say good tuning will make or break your build. So do a lot of research to find the best tuner you can.
 
Thanks for all the replys . I was gonna have a good friend " Bubba " at " Do it dyno is socal tune it . He tunes alot of cars and has been around since Dr. Charles Madrid .


Reikoshea i love the CTR piston idea , and maybe just shotpeen my ITR rods ?

I wish i would have known i could use DSM injectors i just sold my stock EVO VIII fuel injectors cheap .

A already have the AEM CAI it works great !


So nobody likes toda for cams ?? I know they are expensive but i can get dealer cost and i have had good luck with them in the past :mellow: Just having a CTR intake cam and my ITR Exhaust cam wouldnt be enough power right ??


Also is a fuel pressure regulator necessary ??
 
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Blanco said:
Completely unrealistic goal. The best Honda buliders in the business have trouble hitting those numbers with the same platform. And it'll cost you well over $10k. You'll also need to actually build the engine instead of throwing parts at it. How do you know Toda cams will be complimentary to the port and polish you plan on...down the road? You haven't had the head ported yet which means it hasn't been flow benched which means that there's no way to tell which set of cams will work and which set will actually rob power by creating unwanted intake turbulence. How much fuel are you going to need? There's a lot more to building a powerful engine than slapping a bunch of bling-spec parts together.
Click to expand...


So your saying i should ditch my b-series and get a K20A ;)
 
to hit 250 whp all motor, you're talking 8-10k
let alone 300....

your goal per budget is unrealistic
 
You can get close to 300whp all motor on a B without too much trouble- but you won't be running pump gas.
 
Blanco said:
...if you're one of the top builders in the country.
Click to expand...

lol, no joke...300 is a pretty hard goal to hit on a 1.8L all motor B.

250 is more realistic...but as brian said, its gonna be around 8,000....you might even get away with 5k, but youll have to make some killer deals.
 
you will NEVER hit 300 on a 1.8L without a turbo/nitrous/SC/etc.

you are def gonna be sleeving it and/or stroking it.
 
EvoIX4me said:
Thanks for all the replys . I was gonna have a good friend " Bubba " at " Do it dyno is socal tune it . He tunes alot of cars and has been around since Dr. Charles Madrid .
Click to expand...


he's a good tuner...^_^
 
GSRCRXsi said:
you will NEVER hit 300 on a 1.8L without a turbo/nitrous/SC/etc.

you are def gonna be sleeving it and/or stroking it.
Click to expand...

without ...... ooo 20 grand.

your could probably pull it off, but at that point nitrous or a turbo would have been a better solution.
 
im currently at 260whp with my allmotor setup and ive spent 3000x3.75 so far to get that hp if you want me to break it down for you heres what your looking at
1.bad ass headwork im not talking your normal port and polish from some friend of yours. i got mine done through d.p.r. cost for stage 6 head with all new valves, valvetrain,cams=$3000

2.stroked block bored over ect ect the whole nine yards including sleeves sorry but stock sleeves wont cut it . i got all my engine work done by a.e.b.s. cost $2800 and thats for full assembly and all parts ie;rods,pistons,bearings balance and blueprinted

3.header got have a good one dc sports aint gonna help you there me i got a hytech cost$1400 and a 6 month wait but well worth it

4.i.t.b.s. you could try and do a diy setup but if your ballin in cash then twm is the way to go i picked up my set for $1200 plus another $200 for injectors 660cc

5 engine management when i started this build only thing out there was hondata which at the time didnt support itbs so i went with aem ems cost for me after the training classes i went to for 2 days $900

so add that up and then make your decision
 
you wanna make 300whp all motor with a b-series? go here ... The Old One - Energy Dynamics this is endyn's page. they have a build on there that dyno'd 297whp all motor BUT it blew up on the dyno at 10k rpm. =) sickkkk motor, i beleive it was a b20-vtec with serious compression.
 
oh yea, by the way you can get away with 12.5:1 compression on 93 octane pump gas .... ive done it time and time again on an un-tuned motor... ls /vtec with stock bore ctr pistons, b16 head, itr cams, itr intake manifold and throttle body, 4-1 header and chipped ecu and msd digital-6. never dyno tuned it either and it made power all the way up to 9k until i spun a bearing =) thats where the "break-in" period counts the most =) it felt like a good 210whp to me tho.
 
There is definitely so much to learn first.
To start off, you already have a lot of very useful tips from the replies you got from this thread.
As mentioned it will be a lot more of a SPECIFICALLY designed BUILD with a SPECIFIC APPLICATION in mind...
The power figure you are looking into points to the direction of a full-built race car/engine SPECIFICALLY for DRAG RACE rpm/power (up to 9,500 - 10,000 rpm range if the dyno says it still makes power there)
Down the line, the engine must be strong and the tuning is where you must also be willing to spend BIG on (countless dyno hours aint cheap by the way).

-compression (race gas ; 12-13.5 c.r.)
-sleeve reinforcement (w/ the ITR's 1.59 r/s ratio, they can at least give you some peace of mind)
-forged pistons (oversized endyn's thumb's up)
-superior rods (eagle's thumbs up too)
-crank - micropolished, stress relieved & whatever else to make it bulletproof
-dynamically balanced bottom end (balanced to 10k++ rpm)
-upgraded oiling SYSTEM (endyn's got the tricks covered)
-cams (12-12.5mm or ++ lift ; 255 to ++ duration)
-valvetrain upgrade (no brainer)
-head specifically flowed to target rpm/power
-the best / brand new bearings, oil seals, gaskets, pumps, brand new everything
-ITBs (capable of reaching the desired harmonic ranges)
-headers (here, you'll always get what you will pay for)
-upgraded fuel SYSTEM
-ignition system (upgraded enough to ensure rock steady full range spark power ; no need for overkill here)
-FULL TUNING / DATALOGGING, DYNOS DYNOS DYNOS DYNOS DYNOS DYNOS.....

and the REST of...
-Transmission (race clutch,differential upgrade, custom drag ratios, etc)
-Chassis Balancing & Stiffening
-Suspension
-Body Lightening
-Tires
-Traction Aides
-Engine Support Aides
-Practicing your launches & runs

...can START from here. ;)
 
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