Taco15

alright. I'm not buying anything right now. but i want to clear my head of a couple nitrous questions. I wanted to stay N/A at first. Now i want more power,obviously. How much nitrous can i spray on a 11.3.1 compression lsvtec? here the specs on the motor.

Bottom end is all forged with h beams rods and balanced eagle crankshaft. the head however has S2 stage 2 cams with springs/retainers, and ported head work. I feel that a 50 wet shot is safe. What i wanna now (1) whats the best setup? I have asked around and all have said that the direct port is the best way to spray.

2)I've got a chrome tuned p28.will i need to retune? I'm getting larger injectors and intake manni before i do this so nitrous is still a bit aways ahead. Is there a brand that will do the timing,fuel adjustments for me? That way i can keep my current tune. I want to be able to spray and have a peace of mind that its not going to blow due to loss of fuel. i'm not going to run nitrous but only once or twice month. track use only and maybe once on the street. I rarely raceon the street. I know that my motor N/A is plenty tuff to deal without the nitrous. I just want to be able to get close to the low 13's or high 12's in my crx. And for extra insurance in case i bite off more than i can chew

feel free to post your opinions,concerns and suggestions.
thanks guys

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pre13215k

get 75shot direct port my buddy had that on his frankenstein b16 block bored to 1.8liters and gsr head redlining at 9grand worked great no problems.

reikoshea

ill say this. we told a guy that he shouldnt run nitrous on his 12:1 ford 351w....he ran a 100 shot of carb plate nitrous....and yeah, you dont wanna see what the pistons look like (more like i dont wanna download them off my phone).

i would barely run a 75 shot to tell the truth.

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K2e2vin

CarAudiophile said awhile back, that around 55hp shot won't hurt the motor. I guess that's a good start.

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formby

a rule of thum is to spray half of the original power, and thats on a stock cast piston engine. start low and work up. go to the dyno taco and tune there. you have forged internals and nitrous loves HC. just tune right

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phyregod

At most I'd go with two bottles.. the big ones...

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reikoshea

compression ration has a lot to do with this. while n2o does lower the pressure of the air, at combustion, the air fills the chamber at a VERY high compression. combined with you upping the static ratio to 11.3:1, its not always a safe proposition.

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brian11to1

guys down at tokyo speed pros in arizona are building a full on nitrous car. 9:1 cr and uhm a really really big shot... dunno much only heard about it breifly. so just like anything else its all in how you build the engine. build the engine to handle lots of nitrous and youre golden, put lots of nitrous on a stokc motor and it will go boom.

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reikoshea

9:1 is super low....that doesnt suprise me that its able to run a lot of nitrous at that cr. the ones i see exploding are 12:1+ with dual stages of 150.

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Taco15

i know a 50 shot is fine. I want to see whats the most i can sparay safely. !00 shot to me alot but then again i'm a newb when it comes to what my safest options are. so far i'm leanig towards direct port. what i dont get are the tuning aspects. If i tune my p28 with nitrous whats going to happen when i race without the nitrous? you see? If i have to i'll drive to a shop you guys recommend for tuning. I have no problem going to Texas or Orlando somewhere. My mechanics are domestic guys. They have nitroused cars but man its different in a honda.Formby you told me awahile back ago of a company that has nitrous kit. can you remember? also you think CFT can me agood Job? I dontreally want to dyno it again since thats how it blew up last time. man its scary. anywho. i thinks a 75 shot direct port should be enought to break 12's. I just dont want to sink anymore money into N/A parts if nitrous can get me there cheaper. If its not nitrous then i'm definitly going to get a higher compression HG.

You know i alreay have a pr3 thats tuned for nitrous. I got it when i bought my other crx shell. If anybody interested.lmk. I'm damn sure not going back to OBD 0.

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reikoshea

yeah, i wouldnt run a lot. usually your okay if your running a dpi system, usually the fuel is already tuned right (because you dont have to worry about the inconsistancies that are notorious with wet/dry systems). if youre worried about it, run 1 size bigger fuel nozzle and it should put you in the clear. im not making a promise, but thats usually the case.

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formby

ive ran a 100 Wshot on vp110 on my current lsv. [81.5mm pr4 cast pistons], no problem,[yet] all i did was retard the timing 2deg.. also shoot me an pm taco about the ecu: with settings and a good price...lol ill buy it

you can buy an ostrich from moets, it lets you switch settings on the fly... and they also sell a dual chip "thing"... it lets you put 2 chips in the ecu instead of one and you can switch between them

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phyregod

There was a sight somewhere, maybe here, where a guy and his son were screwing with a dodge stratus I think

Anyway, one was driving, the other was in the passenger seat with nos bottle in hand, and a hose ran directly to the intake. No nozzles or anything, just a hose. They got up to speed and he cracked the valve on the bottle.. THAT was too much nos! lol.. (yeah, motor blew)

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97hatch

i ran 120hp direct port wet on my b20 block never had a problem

Taco15

wow. i dont see myslef spraying that much thanks for the info guys. Formby i'll be seeing you soon in Orlando. I'm heading up thier in a month or so.

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erebunicrx

im going to be putting on a 100 shot on my stock y8. you need to put a wideband on it and make sure you have all the jets correct. i think of it like this. stock d series motors could put down 230+ hp with a turbo and you can beat the shit out of them all the time. so once in awhile throwing a 75 shot on a stock motor would be fine. theres just a few things you need to look into b/c i dont know eveything about it. like you dont want to spray when you below a certain rpm, i would not launch on nitrous. i would also go with a direct port setup with some extras like bottle heater, pressure gauge and purge.

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Taco15

yeah wide band is definitly on my list after oil press. guage. I want to monitor all the importants things from inside while i'm driving. unfortunatley i just cant go buy it. gotta save up the cash first. thanks for the input. I think DP 75 shot is going to be my choice

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Andrew

Sounds like a plan... I'll keep my eye out for ya.

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Taco15

well i'm unsure again I just talked to my friend/tuner and he recommends staying at the compression i'm at. He says i wont even notice the difference if i do raise compression. I know i can go higher than 11.3.1 and still be daily driven. I guess he just doesnt want to deal with it. I had my plans for nitrousfirst. Then i wanted to stay all motor, just swap my 3 layer to 1 layer oem gasket to raise compression. damn. I'm stuck. Its quicker and cheaper to raise comprression since my motor is coming out of my car again. Not only that but i dont have the money for nitrous yet. I was talking to Formby earlier and he said CFT could tune it for me. I think ima do that since my buddy doesnt want to do it.

what would you guys do? stay all motor with high compression or spray a 75 direct port. Calesta I know you like the high compression so post up man. If you can tune lmk i might let you do it

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hondafan91

i would never use nitrous in my car in yours neither nitrous is overrated if you run nitrous it will eventually ruin your pistons and a civic ls i would turbo and intercool it

reikoshea

well i wouldnt go that far my friend (hondafan91), Nitrous is very useful, but if your rings are not gapped for nitrous and you are running stock pistons, it really is a matter of time before you blow your engine. If you build your car to run nitrous, you can run it for years without a problem. Look at the c6 vette that runs at our track. He just put in new rings and a 200 shot of nitrous. Runs 2 to 3 times a week with nitrous and this has been going on for close to (if not over) one year. Nitrous has proven to be benificial or people wouldnt do it.

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Taco15

you know<_< i thought about repling to the previous post but since i saw it was his first i figures i'd let him read on. He's right hondafan91. Its all in what you use and how you use it. I've got a forged bottom end which i heard is nitrous friendly. Also if you read our previous post i was undecided on what type of shot. wet,dry, direct port? not to mention the most important of all. TUNING! thats the mistake alot of newbies and ricers make. they just fiddle with timing and go get themselves a big bottle of NAWS..........wait a minute make it 2 big bottles.

so to comfort you alittle. i'm not running nitrous anythime soon. i'm going even more dangerous............going HIGH compression. ohhh yeah. wel at least thats what i'm thinking about

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reikoshea

you know me, i cant let comments like that go without correction.

i used to do stuff like that (and still do from time to time) but after ive spent the better part of this year either under the hood or reading up on tuning and power adders, i feel a little bit more comfortable talking about how these setup's should go.

This place is a really good spot for information regarding power adders and tuning...along with pgmfi.org.

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Taco15

yeah well. i dont know that much so thats why i keep my mouth shut. even if i know i'm right i just agree and let it be.
so....... you think getting higher compression really wont make a difference with what i have now? i know it will, i mean noticable power gains like quicker responce,more torque. I'm sure the skunk3 cams will love it. I'm at 11.3.1 right now. I would think the 1 layer will put me close to 11.8.1

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reikoshea

it you change cams, yeah, itll definitely be a noticable difference (at the track). your top end will feel amazing (even though the engine will sound like its had enough).

Skunk2 stage 3s like high comp and high rpms. the more of either, the better itll feel and respond.

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