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LS_VTEC · 01-11-2008, 11:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90c-rex

don't you have to worry about the valve clearance if you put ctr pistons into a lsvtec setup? I've got a lsvtec setup but I'd used b16 pistons but I was thinking about switching them for ctr pistons for higher compression...what do you have build in your head as far as cams and valve,retainers and valve springs?

You can run a stock b16 head with an ls block fitted on stock rods with ctr pistons, just make sure your timing is @ 0. I have never had any problems with smashing valves, but ive had problems with cracking pistons and spinning bearings once. But that was @ 9000 rpm with itr cams.

LS_VTEC · 01-12-2008, 10:36 AM

Just got back from the machine shop with everything. I will start assembling the short block tonight when I get home from work.

LS_VTEC · 01-13-2008, 02:41 AM

I started with assembling the crankshaft back into place...

Here is the crankcase with the ACL STD Main bearings

I used 5w30 motor oil to lightly lubricate the bearings (cant find the Clevite bearing guard, grrr)

Carefully place the crankshaft down into the crankcase

Before applying the Main caps, I lightly lubricated them as well as the bearings with 5w30 motor oil...

Place caps on and evenly press downward, the Dowels should guide themselves right in...

LS_VTEC · 01-13-2008, 02:45 AM

ARP Moly lube used on the Main bolt threads and washers...

Hand thread-on the main bolts after evenly lubricated with arp moly lube....

Torque the main bolts to 56 FT.LBS. in sequence, starting with main cap #3, than 5, than 1, than 4 and finally 2.

LS_VTEC · 01-13-2008, 02:48 AM

Since I cannot get ahold of my friend Mike, who currently has my piston ring compressing tool, I cannot install the pistons/rods. Hopefully I get it tomorrow, if not monday....

Here is a pic of the ctr pistons pressed onto the pr4 (LS) rods fitted with arp 8mm rod bolts and the piston rings installed...

Jixer615 · 01-13-2008, 02:14 PM

did you use the orginal main bolts or ARP?

LS_VTEC · 01-13-2008, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jixer615

did you use the orginal main bolts or ARP?

The original.

ls/vtechatch91 · 01-14-2008, 02:33 AM

i bought arp main bolts... i have my build thread on here somewhere.. best $125 i've spent i think.. no engine lube on the bearings??? just oil..?

LS_VTEC · 01-14-2008, 02:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ls/vtechatch91

i bought arp main bolts... i have my build thread on here somewhere.. best $125 i've spent i think.. no engine lube on the bearings??? just oil..?

Those are not the original main bolt's, this engine was opened up and rebuilt before, but to "somewhat" oem spec's. I measured the pitch, head and length of the bolt and it has not stretched in any way. I have Clevite bearing guard somewhere but I just cannot seem to find it so I used 5w30 motor oil (which is fine). The main bolts were cleaned and the bolt threads and washers were coated with arp moly lube before I installed them. I do have ACL race rod bearings which I will be using tomorrow when I get the ring compressor so I can put the pistons/rods back in.

ls/vtechatch91 · 01-14-2008, 02:45 AM

sweet sweet.. i just said that cuz i pieced mine together so i used that engine assembly stuff it took me like 4 months to piece it together... but its looking good... let us know how it runs... you gonna get it tuned?

LS_VTEC · 01-14-2008, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ls/vtechatch91

sweet sweet.. i just said that cuz i pieced mine together so i used that engine assembly stuff it took me like 4 months to piece it together... but its looking good... let us know how it runs... you gonna get it tuned?

Will do, video's and all after the break-in. It should be all said and done within the next couple weeks, hopefully I don't get any snow here (NJ), it will set me back since the transmission and the head are still on the b16, which is still in the hatch.

As far as the tune goes, I contacted John Vega from phearable.net and he will be chipping a p28 for my particular setup. This will be temporary, mainly until after its broken in. I plan on taking it to my local tuner, Mike Miranda for tuning @ E-Shift. He tunes with crome-pro, so that is what I will be running as far as engine management goes. Oh yea, bigger injectors as well for that tune.

LS_VTEC · 01-14-2008, 03:56 AM

BUMP for my new rear main seal

philyphreak2127 · 01-15-2008, 12:34 AM

sweet build I like the way you have shown pictures all along the way. one question I hear all you guys talkin about reving these oem motors up to 9000 rpms, would I be safe doing that with my d16y8?

LS_VTEC · 01-15-2008, 12:44 AM

Thank you...

Ehhh... I dont see a y8 revving past 7500 rpm. I havent been using single cams for quite some time now, so I am unsure of the redline. Bottom line as far as revving goes: stock valvetrain, stock redline. If you upgrade the cam and valvetrain component's as well as a chipped ecu (to raise the rev limit) than maybe spin it higher, but 9000 rpm is a lot for a single, but im sure it will make power with the right cam.

LS_VTEC · 01-15-2008, 02:45 AM

so far, cylinder #1 and #4 have pistons/rods...

Once I finish 2 and 3, and check the clearances I will post up the pictures...

LS_VTEC · 01-15-2008, 03:26 AM

This part I had to get do some "fab" work to cover up the rod bolt threads from damaging the journals (again) so I used zip ties to hold down the rubber caps...

Rings oiled and spaced 90 degrees apart from eachother, in the piston ring compressor...

LS_VTEC · 01-15-2008, 03:30 AM

Lubricated all ACL bearings, put rod caps on, hand tighted the rod bolts and a little extra with the socket wrench. Gave it a couple turns, no binding... good sign so far...

Here are some pictures of the pistons/rods assembled and installed...

LS_VTEC · 01-15-2008, 04:02 AM

Im beat... I will check the clearances tomorrow morning/afternoon and I will post up the results.

TurboMirage · 01-16-2008, 09:12 AM

building it in your kitchen?

LS_VTEC · 01-16-2008, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TurboMirage

building it in your kitchen?

As always

I'm thinking about getting stickers made, like Jerry-Built, but it will say "Johnny-Built" haha

LS_VTEC · 01-16-2008, 02:28 PM

Rod bolts were torqued down three times, at 26 ft.lbs. Oil clearances came up perfect, off by .0001 in cylinder #3, which isn't abnormal. I bolted the windage tray back on and cleaned out the oil pickup. Waiting for the oil pump and head studs to continue.

In the meantime, I will try to start removing the head off of the b16 which is still in the car.

LS_VTEC · 01-16-2008, 02:29 PM

New water pump installed as well, today I have to get to a press so I can press the rear main seal into the housing.

Somalia757 · 01-16-2008, 02:50 PM

This thread is helping me understand the LS/VTEC better. THUMBS UP!

Jixer615 · 01-16-2008, 03:35 PM

you might want to check you piston direction out, im pretty sure you put them in facing the wrong way.

i could be wrong but it doesn't look right and the manual doesn't lie.

ls/vtechatch91 · 01-16-2008, 04:14 PM

ya u got that goind the wrong way... the IN on the pistons means intake side... i would take those out and put them back in the right way... damn that sucks....

01-12-2008, 10:36 AM	#52
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	Just got back from the machine shop with everything. I will start assembling the short block tonight when I get home from work. __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-13-2008, 02:41 AM	#53
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	I started with assembling the crankshaft back into place... Here is the crankcase with the ACL STD Main bearings I used 5w30 motor oil to lightly lubricate the bearings (cant find the Clevite bearing guard, grrr) Carefully place the crankshaft down into the crankcase Before applying the Main caps, I lightly lubricated them as well as the bearings with 5w30 motor oil... Place caps on and evenly press downward, the Dowels should guide themselves right in... __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-13-2008, 02:45 AM	#54
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	ARP Moly lube used on the Main bolt threads and washers... Hand thread-on the main bolts after evenly lubricated with arp moly lube.... Torque the main bolts to 56 FT.LBS. in sequence, starting with main cap #3, than 5, than 1, than 4 and finally 2. __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-13-2008, 02:48 AM	#55
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	Since I cannot get ahold of my friend Mike, who currently has my piston ring compressing tool, I cannot install the pistons/rods. Hopefully I get it tomorrow, if not monday.... Here is a pic of the ctr pistons pressed onto the pr4 (LS) rods fitted with arp 8mm rod bolts and the piston rings installed... __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-14-2008, 03:56 AM	#62
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	BUMP for my new rear main seal __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold


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01-13-2008, 02:14 PM	#56
Jixer615 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 73 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 4	did you use the orginal main bolts or ARP?

01-14-2008, 02:33 AM	#58
ls/vtechatch91 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: washington Age: 22 Posts: 339 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 91 integra with ls/vtec... Rep Power: 10	i bought arp main bolts... i have my build thread on here somewhere.. best $125 i've spent i think.. no engine lube on the bearings??? just oil..?

01-14-2008, 02:45 AM	#60
ls/vtechatch91 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: washington Age: 22 Posts: 339 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 91 integra with ls/vtec... Rep Power: 10	sweet sweet.. i just said that cuz i pieced mine together so i used that engine assembly stuff it took me like 4 months to piece it together... but its looking good... let us know how it runs... you gonna get it tuned?

01-15-2008, 12:34 AM	#63
philyphreak2127 The name's Sam Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: morrison, co Age: 20 Posts: 1,510 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 98 civic dx sedan, 80 trans am Blog Entries: 1 Rep Power: 26	sweet build I like the way you have shown pictures all along the way. one question I hear all you guys talkin about reving these oem motors up to 9000 rpms, would I be safe doing that with my d16y8? __________________ Parts for sale: http://hondaswap.com/parts-sale-trad...-parts-115446/ Build Threads: Civic: http://hondaswap.com/civic-del-sol-eg-ek/d16y8-n-build-112401/5.html Trans Am: http://hondaswap.com/other-vehicle-discussions/1980-trans-am-build-thread-oh-yeah-its-official-149941/#post1054318

01-15-2008, 12:44 AM	#64
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	Thank you... Ehhh... I dont see a y8 revving past 7500 rpm. I havent been using single cams for quite some time now, so I am unsure of the redline. Bottom line as far as revving goes: stock valvetrain, stock redline. If you upgrade the cam and valvetrain component's as well as a chipped ecu (to raise the rev limit) than maybe spin it higher, but 9000 rpm is a lot for a single, but im sure it will make power with the right cam. __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-15-2008, 02:45 AM	#65
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	so far, cylinder #1 and #4 have pistons/rods... Once I finish 2 and 3, and check the clearances I will post up the pictures... __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-15-2008, 03:26 AM	#66
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	This part I had to get do some "fab" work to cover up the rod bolt threads from damaging the journals (again) so I used zip ties to hold down the rubber caps... Rings oiled and spaced 90 degrees apart from eachother, in the piston ring compressor... __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-15-2008, 03:30 AM	#67
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	Lubricated all ACL bearings, put rod caps on, hand tighted the rod bolts and a little extra with the socket wrench. Gave it a couple turns, no binding... good sign so far... Here are some pictures of the pistons/rods assembled and installed... __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-15-2008, 04:02 AM	#68
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	Im beat... I will check the clearances tomorrow morning/afternoon and I will post up the results. __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-16-2008, 09:12 AM	#69
TurboMirage Running on two cylinders Join Date: May 2003 Location: Southbridge, MA Age: 25 Posts: 18,155 iTrader: 1 / 100% Ride: 2000 Mitsubishi Lancer RPW E5 Coupe Rep Power: 338	building it in your kitchen? __________________ Home of the RPW built 2000 Lancer CC Coupe. See what is done to the little Evo5. "If you don't like what I've done with my car, I will gladly refund all the money you put into it."

01-16-2008, 02:28 PM	#71
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	Rod bolts were torqued down three times, at 26 ft.lbs. Oil clearances came up perfect, off by .0001 in cylinder #3, which isn't abnormal. I bolted the windage tray back on and cleaned out the oil pickup. Waiting for the oil pump and head studs to continue. In the meantime, I will try to start removing the head off of the b16 which is still in the car. __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-16-2008, 02:29 PM	#72
LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: NJ Posts: 2,617 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 99 YZF-R6 Rep Power: 43	New water pump installed as well, today I have to get to a press so I can press the rear main seal into the housing. __________________ eg hatch (jdm b16) sold 1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded) http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

01-16-2008, 02:50 PM	#73
Somalia757 SOMALIA Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: VA BEACH, VA Posts: 62 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 93 DA9 1.9L NA LS/VTEC Rep Power: 4	informative This thread is helping me understand the LS/VTEC better. THUMBS UP! __________________ 1.9L LS/VTEC

01-16-2008, 03:35 PM	#74
Jixer615 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 73 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 4	you might want to check you piston direction out, im pretty sure you put them in facing the wrong way. i could be wrong but it doesn't look right and the manual doesn't lie. Attached Thumbnails Last edited by Jixer615; 01-16-2008 at 03:38 PM.

01-16-2008, 04:14 PM	#75
ls/vtechatch91 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: washington Age: 22 Posts: 339 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 91 integra with ls/vtec... Rep Power: 10	ya u got that goind the wrong way... the IN on the pistons means intake side... i would take those out and put them back in the right way... damn that sucks....

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