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#1 |
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Junior Member
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I am looking into purchasing a car. The car has a B20b/b16 motor. I was wondering what you guys thought of this setup. Done right?
BLOCK B20B block 84mm RS machine 84mm pistons (11.5:1) stock PR4 rods (resized) with ARP rod bolts Stock sleeves PR4 crank (micropolished) Top line bearings oem head gasket ITR oil pump ITR water pump passwordjdm magnetic drain plug oem oil filter all new OEM gaskets HEAD PR3 B16 head (resurfaced) new valve seals 3 angle valve job intake & exhaust ports have been cleaned up Rocket motorsports valve springs and Ti retainers Skunk2 pro series Pro1+ cams BOLT-ONS AEBS intake manifold obd1 gsr throttle body 65mm bored out by maxbore.com DC intake arm with blox velocity stack with blox filter hondata intake manifold gasket Hy-tech replica race header k-teller 2.5" SS piping, no cat or resonators 2.5' SS magnaflow oval muffler STR fuel rail with braided fuel line feed B&M fuel regualtor and guage on top of rail Walbro 255 fuel pump full-race ls/vtec oil line kit Allstar breather catch can new oem ITR ignition wires NGK plugs new oem cap and rotor STR cam gears King motorsports extended intake & exhuast studs Fluidyne radiator Samco hoses (red) slim line fan Mugen fan switch Mugen thermostat new oem fuel filter Innovative race billet mounts new oem clutch line new oem speedometer cable new oem ITR valve cover with ITR crome oil cap Odyssey PC680 battery with odyssey battery box holder Thanks for the advice guys. It means a lot. Last edited by FiftyFive; 08-15-2008 at 08:08 AM. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: north palm beach, FL
Age: 28
Posts: 258
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: B20/vtec DC, Nissan Xterra SE, 16ft Caprice Skiff
Rep Power: 9
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sounds like it was done well.... but theres no way to be sure when you are buying a used car. just look it over very closely, do a compression check, drive it, and hope its as good as it sounds/looks
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#5 |
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Resident Fat Ass
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ansonia, CT
Age: 25
Posts: 1,569
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 90 Hatch, 91 Rex, 85 Yamaha Virago, 82 CB900F Supersport
Rep Power: 58
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So I take it you purchased the car?
If so, have it dyno'd. You will see where you are making power and where you stop making it. |
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#7 |
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Resident Fat Ass
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ansonia, CT
Age: 25
Posts: 1,569
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: 90 Hatch, 91 Rex, 85 Yamaha Virago, 82 CB900F Supersport
Rep Power: 58
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Seems to me the dyno sheet shows that it stops making power right around 7500...
Those are pretty respectable numbers. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: north palm beach, FL
Age: 28
Posts: 258
iTrader: 0 / 0%
Ride: B20/vtec DC, Nissan Xterra SE, 16ft Caprice Skiff
Rep Power: 9
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those numbers are really high! i have a similar set-up in my dc2 and im sure its not putting down those kind of numbers. i need to get a few more things am im going to take it to be dyno tuned.
i am a noob to this frankenstein motor thing too. i have had a couple b16a powered DAs back in the day, but thats it. i have been asking some questions on this forum and others, and most people are telling me that regularly exceeding 7000 rpms is not a good idea. however you are not the first person to show that a b20vtec can make power until 7500 or more. i have heard tales of lsvtecs and b20vtecs running up to 8k or even 8.5k for years on stock blocks but i have my doubts. i have a custom basemapped ecu for my set-up and my car runs real nice and smooth, and it has been a nice daily driver/gas saver for me this first month or so that i have owned it. mine pulls really hard until just after 7k. i have revved it to 8 a few times but shifting at 7.5 is just as fast and i feel better about it. maybe this will help you out edit: just realized i didnt read close enough and this car your looking at is not a stock bottom end... oops! even still, theres no reason to rev past the power band Last edited by mdpsEG; 08-19-2008 at 09:38 AM. |
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