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#5 |
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Senior Member
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you dont want it but I'll tell ya how it should be installed so you can sell it and spend all the cash on a sleeve job or something:
hand fit the block guard for a close fit before other machining,then TIG weld in place,machine the block deck flat,then final bore machining is done...never in an assembeled motor sitting in the car. thats the right way,the wrong way WILL cause enough distortion to risk seizing. dont waste your money if you want a better bottom end get it sleeved by Golden Eagle,Crower....somebody who knows how to install this stuff,this is not something you should be doing if you dont have a full machine shop at your disposal. __________________
</span><table border=\'0\' align=\'center\' width=\'95%\' cellpadding=\'3\' cellspacing=\'1\'><tr><td>QUOTE </td></tr><tr><td id=\'QUOTE\'>QUOTE (pyrohardcore @ Apr 22 2003, 06:56 PM)guess i'm sorta out in the open surrounded by fat kids in paintball tho </td></tr></table><span class=\'signature\'> Evil Should'nt Look This Good. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
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I agree, it is a waste of coin. If a 100 item can literally save your block chances are it can't.
Milan __________________
<span style=\"color:red\">"92 Blue EG"</span> -Project 3 - Motor A (NA stock SiR longblock B16 EG/S1tran) 14.3@97 15" radial tires & Gutted -Project 3 - Motor B (NA stock SiRII longblock B16 EG/S4tran) 13.3@103 MT's & Gutted <span style=\"color:red\">"Goldy S13"</span> -Project 4 - Motor A (FI SR20DET w/T28 "Under Construction" <span style=\"color:red\">"Silver E46"</span> -Project 5 - Motor A (???) |
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