Type R Camshafts (Finally found some!!)

Your Mouth too. Search for the camshafts....You guys need to start your own threads and please stay off other people's threads. well the first guy did and still asked an off topic question about his deep desire to own a rhd car

Gonna do the valve lash again lmao. I think I might be a little too tight and I'm gonna back them off a hair. I read a bunch of web articles and posts that say too tight of valve lash brings on a bunch of problems. Its such a artsy fartsy touch to it all. And mechanics at like its easy (which it is when you have done it 900 times)

ha ha bash the noobs!

So hows your MPGs?

oh forgot to tell you, you should change your spark plugs to stock replacements for a b16 NGK vpower. and gap them to .35, If idle is a lil low, gap to .40. check them after 100-200 miles. If you see carbon build up or a white electrode then you must tune it. The ceramic on the inside of the plug should be a pinkish color.

You mean 0.035?? Stock is 0.052. My idle is a little jacked up right now. Its already sitting kinda low on the rpm range (650 or so)

Weird thing happened...I only let it warm up for 45-60 seconds after work and drove off (which I have done with this set up already). I was taking it easy and came to the first stop sign. It began to hunt but going down to 300-400 rpm and hunting up to 1100..and it would finally catch itself in 20 seconds or so. It got better once it was warm (although it gets to running temp a lot quicker since I tightened the lash). It also has a lobing sound (but I thought Type R cams had a stock idle sound??) The sound started after the tightneing of the valve lash.

I have adjusted the air screw at the TB (had to since I messed with it to raise my idle for smog months ago) a few times because it was hunting after I rev'd it but it would find it's range eventually (motor very warm at this point). It cannot lift my idle without wanting to hunt after I rev it up.....I have it as high as it wants. Am I doing something wrong?? Car is always at running temp when I have adjusted it. Didn't think I needed to jump the service plug for idle adjustments.

My IACV was cleaned (and wasn't that dirty) about 6 months ago. It never hunted low like this before (even with the CTR cams from all of last week). Only change is the valve lash was tightened up (tight at the low side of specs) So I am going to go through it again and let off each one by a hair (around an 1/8 of a turn). I'll see what that does and I'll take a look at my spark plugs.

If smaller plug gap lowers idle....I would be in bad shape right now lol

Just read the Helm on Idle Adjustment and I need to

-Unplug the IACV electrical connector after hitting running temp
-Then re-start with your foot on gas at 1000 rpm and slightly letting off until it idles on its own.
-Idle set at 480 +/- 50 rpm with it unplugged. They also speak of an external rpm gauge....which I dont have but could use a smog guy's rabbit ears.
-Then reset ECU and plug IACV back in. Gonna try it after I do the valve lash....again......and again. The steep learning curve is catching up to me a little.

I am hoping I just need to let off the lash a little to get it back to normal. I have a sputter in the idle every 8-10 seconds too.
Makes me think a few are too tight.....good lord this is irritating me tonight! Oh well, I'll let you know what happens.

I blocked off my IACV and it does exactly what you're explaining when its cold.

Try it, yes .035 Thats what I'm running now. It might help it might not, worst thing that happens is you re gap.

try .035 if idle falls then try .040and then .45 ect ect. until you find the sweet spot.

I think the reason your idly is wacky is because your dumping too much fuel on idle. Pull the plugs and check em.

This is a old school way of checking if your running lean or rich.

Buy a new set gap em and change em on a empty road, then do a WOT run 1st to 4th let off and kill engine, Slow down pull over let the engine cool and read the plugs.

If plugs have black on the ceramic or electrodes, then your running rich, if your electrode is white then your running rich.

If the electrode is tan and there is a slight hint of pink in the ceramic in the plug then your running good.

Oh and BTW your idle needs to be at 7500 to 8500

I read a thread on EK9 forum and its about valve lash too tight which causes a rough idle when warm....which is what I seem to be dealing with (along with the hunting low rpm at times). I'm walking to work tomorrow so I can adjust the lash again after work (on a cold motor). It should take less then an hour and I'll go from there. The spark plug gap theory is something I will try after I see if the valve lash is the culprit. I know that B series VTEC's valve train can be on the loud side anyways so I guess the 'purr' I wanted is not going to happen.

I dont know what valve lash are you running but the correct is 0.006 intake and 0.008 exh or both at .007.

Yes, I know the specs, but thanks. I did .006 intake and .007 exhaust, but tight drag.

I think I just messed up and didn't have enough drag b/c they were loud after I did it the first time. But I think I was at an angle with the feeler gauge when I did the lash initially (with same feeler gauges). The tool I made let me stay more perpendicular to the valve stem plus I did it with a tighter drag. We'll see....

Ahh I see.

So I loosened them up and the motor idles much better. Two of the valve lashes were pretty damn tight too. In general, they were all too tight. I feel better now. Its idling around 700-750 now and doesn't lobe like it was. Will try the spark plug gap later.

Magana, whats the purpose for you tightening the gap? Shorter electric stream seems like it would leave more unburnt gas.....??? Or am I thinking wrong....I'll google it

EDIT: There are theories for both larger and smaller gap. But i did see a few posts where they say 0.044-0.045. Future Myth Busters Episode????

Smaller gap has better chances of ignition when running rich and high rpm.

All of what i have been told by several tuners. Normally this is ran on boosted engines or high comp. but its still helps on stock engines with base maps. Just gotta find the sweet spot.

Sounds like the dyno tune wont happen until I'm off for the summer. The M-F thing wont work with my schedule unless I call in sick and I hate having a substitute teach my students. Its a dead day (in terms of them learning anything) And finding a good math sub.....damn hard. And at best, I don't have to call a dozen parents about their kids inappropriate behavior or crappy decisions with a sub in the class.

Just curious...school teacher? Because it would be bad ass if my teacher had a sick EG.

That sucks about the tune...how does it run now?

Middle School Algebra teacher. My kids make fun of the EGg! I tell them they just dont know! They think another teachers Muffstank V6 with dual exhaust can whoop me. They like it though....just like to get me fired up lol....Honda baby!

My car runs fine (except for the low idle that I haven't addressed yet). I'm still running a USDM Virgin P30 ECU. It smells a little richer (especially when its cold when comparing to stock B16 cams) so I'm gonna try a smaller gap on the spark plugs like Magana talked about and see what that does.

Still need to get the ECU too but everyone scares the crap out of me with bad things happening if roll around on a socket chipped ECU with a pre-tuned program for my motor/cam set up without a tune.....so I'm in no hurry b/c the tune ain't happening for at least a month (maybe memorial day). Plus I seriously need axles (boots were hammered when I did the cams/spring install) and one of my wheel studs is gone and I got new OEM pads to throw on it. I would like it all buttoned up before getting on a dyno.

My GF got me a Flip video camera for our anniversary so I thought I'd try to shoot a video of the hatch in action....or some form of such things lol. Its in my hand and I still suck using this tiny ass camera.

Her and I plus a pretty full gas tank. From a 1st gear roll puching it around 4500...Took it to about 7200 in 3rd and let off. Windows up and me acting like jack ass with my girl.

YouTube - B16A-CTR cams

Get a socketed ECU with vtec capabilities and take that when your going to get it tuned.

I thought you were running a chip?? If not then I dont see why your running rich on a P30 ECU on the idle. I belive the CTR and B16a primary's are the same, I thought the only difference was the vtec lob.

I usually buy axles at auto zone because they are $60 and life time warranty! or keep the oem axles and just swap out the boots.

but you might end up with a few of these with autozone axle's

No chip ECU. I was suppose to get one but they guy didn't answer when I called him after work (Last Friday). And since the tune aint happening until I can get a weekday off, I'm in no hurry. I know 'some guy' that I can ask about the primary lobe sizes and if they are the same. I think I will check the plugs soon. They are pretty new.