Hondaswap.com | Honda Technical & JDM styling Forums

vtecsir1 · 11-16-2011, 09:07 PM

Damn, how old is the head?

Get some better oil too. I was running 15-50 mobil 1 with zinc and phosphorus daily driving.

Currently running amsoil dominator race oil...Im not daily driving though,

99sidude · 11-16-2011, 09:34 PM

I guess its time to run better oil. Been running the cheap penzoil in all of my cars with zero problems. The head isn't that old. Its a 96 spec itr head from an imported Hmotors motor. There was one previous owner who beat the shit out of it. The bottom end had been an inch of being grenaded. Still, the head looked fine 3500 miles ago.

josh_crewdson@y · 11-16-2011, 10:28 PM

Get some zddp for your oil..
Google it and read up..
I had it happen in my b16 with supertech springs and crower stage 3's, I dremeled the pads even and smooth added the zddp to my mobile 1 synthec and didn't have any problems up to the cam snapping..
I only had lifter wear though..

99sidude · 11-16-2011, 10:35 PM

I'm going to buy a used b16 head off of craigslist and harvest the rockers off of there. That is unless I can get a smokin deal on new rockers at work.

Then I'll take fine grit sand paper to the cams and take out any rough spots. There really aren't any, just visual heat/wear marks.

Most importantly, I need to track down the root cause, which I feel is oil starvation. Trying to find oil system diagrams now. I'll look in to the additive you are suggesting.

Magana559 · 11-17-2011, 10:54 AM

valvoline VR1 FTW high zink and under 5 $

Magana559 · 11-17-2011, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99sidude

I'm going to buy a used b16 head off of craigslist and harvest the rockers off of there. That is unless I can get a smokin deal on new rockers at work.

Then I'll take fine grit sand paper to the cams and take out any rough spots. There really aren't any, just visual heat/wear marks.

Most importantly, I need to track down the root cause, which I feel is oil starvation. Trying to find oil system diagrams now. I'll look in to the additive you are suggesting.

make sure you keep the rocker assembly all togeather, if not you might have problems with vtec.

Do not use sand paper, Just take it to a machine shop and have them smooth it out.

HiReviNSpooN · 02-23-2012, 07:45 PM

I NEVER HEARD OF A BREAK-IN AT HIGH RPM!!!!!!
YOU ARE SUPPOSE TO DRIVE THE CAR NORMAL!!!!!!
IT IS Suppose to be tuned for Air & fuel after a 1000 miles so everything is working efficiently. Nothing to gain power from.
After the break-in reached 3k miles, then you tuned. Some people do it to 5k just to be safe.
And the clearance could be wrong as well if you went by stock specs and not the specs you are given with the cams.
Rocker arms could be wearing out but it couldnt cause that in that short period of time. Good luck homie, hope everything works out to your benefits

Magana559 · 02-27-2012, 04:17 AM

you sir are a Idiot. You want to tune ASAP before you blow it up or lean it out and damage something.

I towed a fresh engine to the dyno and dyno tuned it with 0 miles on the engine.

I dont know were you get you info but you are wrong.

E_SolSi · 02-27-2012, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magana559

you sir are a Idiot. You want to tune ASAP before you blow it up or lean it out and damage something.

I towed a fresh engine to the dyno and dyno tuned it with 0 miles on the engine.

I dont know were you get you info but you are wrong.

HiReviNSpooN · 02-27-2012, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magana559

you sir are a Idiot. You want to tune ASAP before you blow it up or lean it out and damage something.

I towed a fresh engine to the dyno and dyno tuned it with 0 miles on the engine.

I dont know were you get you info but you are wrong.

u calling me the idiot??

Magana559 · 02-27-2012, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magana559

you sir are a Idiot.

Yes I'm most certainly am.

HiReviNSpooN · 02-29-2012, 07:46 PM

Probably did.... Didn't say you can't because you could. Im saying you shouldn't if you understand the process of BREAKING IT IN " IDIOT " . That motor probably blew within the same year. Not because of heavy driving but because you are a idiot for tuning a fresh motor to gain power out of it.

|Chaz| · 02-29-2012, 07:56 PM

Have you ever even built a motor, get the fuck out of here retard and that is enough of your all capital words. You're getting negative repped for being such an ass clown. Have fun carrying around your red badge of idiocy.

HiReviNSpooN · 03-01-2012, 08:42 AM

I build more motors than the amount of females you slept with...Confidently Speaking.
I tuned more cars than the amount of females you spoke too...... Confidently Speaking
And i painted more cars than the amount of females you was rejected from ....CHAZ. Give me the red badge because that don't do ish to my street cred CHAZ
so go F your MOM with your premature self

Quote:

Originally Posted by |Chaz|

Have you ever even built a motor, get the fuck out of here retard and that is enough of your all capital words. You're getting negative repped for being such an ass clown. Have fun carrying around your red badge of idiocy.

HiReviNSpooN · 03-01-2012, 08:44 AM

And if you can tune motor freshly built than i didn't know,
I just always chose to break them in first before tuning it for performance.
I was told by DRT when i was 16, and yosolo few few years back

eg6sir · 03-01-2012, 09:48 AM

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

Quote:

Here's How To Break-In An Engine Properly:
There are 3 ways you can break in an engine:

1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
3) on the racetrack

Quote:

On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!

Then, using 4th gear:

Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes

Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool Down For About 15 Minutes
Go For It !!

Quote:

NOTE: If you use a dyno with a brake, it's critical during break - in that you allow the engine to decelerate fully on it's own. (Don't use the dyno brake.) The engine vacuum created during closed throttle deceleration sucks the excess oil and metal off the cylinder walls.

The point of this is to remove the very small (micro) particles of ring and cylinder material which are part of the normal wear during this process. During deceleration, the particles suspended in the oil blow out the exhaust, rather than accumulating in the ring grooves between
the piston and rings. This keeps the rings from wearing too much.

You'll notice that at first the engine "smokes" on decel, this is normal, as the rings haven't sealed yet. When you're doing it right, you'll notice that the smoke goes away after about 7-8 runs.

.. now :STFU:

Magana559 · 03-01-2012, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiReviNSpooN

Probably did.... Didn't say you can't because you could. Im saying you shouldn't if you understand the process of BREAKING IT IN " IDIOT " . That motor probably blew within the same year. Not because of heavy driving but because you are a idiot for tuning a fresh motor to gain power out of it.

Engine runs more than fine, reason it burns oil is because I got too aggressive with the nitrous, but its still running like a champ!

again, your a Idiot!

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiReviNSpooN

I build more motors than the amount of females you slept with...Confidently Speaking.
I tuned more cars than the amount of females you spoke too...... Confidently Speaking
And i painted more cars than the amount of females you was rejected from ....CHAZ. Give me the red badge because that don't do ish to my street cred CHAZ
so go F your MOM with your premature self

great joke!

I can tell your a ass hat! You have no Idea what the fuck your talking about. enjoy neg rep!

99sidude · 03-01-2012, 08:22 PM

Stop junking up my thread assholes!!!

I sent the cams back to skunk2 like a month ago. They are "analyzing" them to see if they were defective or if it was my fault somehow. The .pdf file I sent them is attached to this post.

The nice thing was that skunk2 paid to have my parts shipped to them. Even if they feel that the cam was not defective, they will sell me a replacement for $100.

CAFROG · 03-01-2012, 09:18 PM

Wow...sorry to read this issue is still unresolved.

Skunk2 has many guys in the K-series community in an uproar. They constantly complain about product and customer service. Some guys have Dave Hsu pretty upset b/c of their facts and opinions. I am very surprised to read they are expressing such great customer service (but I'm glad to hear). Their K-series stage 2&3 have been known to chew up OEM timing chain tensioners....but any big profile camshaft can do that (especially road course or any endurance). This is what made Hybrid Racing do R&D for their aftermarket TCT. Skunk2 quality control and integrity of their product has been highly questioned. Guys complain a lot based what has happened in the last ten years. Hell Skunk2 was the first to come out with a decent set of B-series VTEC camshafts but that was over a decade ago. They've had their share of changes since (staff, direction, product, ect.) I have done my fair share of camshaft education/research and the more I learn....the more I find out I don't know crap. But I do know that QC can mess up a motor real quick. Stereo lobes versus mono lobes is my newest piece of knowledge.

Magana is my boy and he is a budget build genius. Theory of engine break in can be a tender issue. But I agree with Magana. Accelerating and decelerating is sound. But.....we disagree on clutch break in lol.

99sidude.....keep us posted. Did you get that B16 head?

99sidude · 03-01-2012, 09:47 PM

I did get the b16 head. I've got a fresh set of rockers ready to go. Just waiting on SK2 on the cams. The one guy at SK2 believes that the problem is because I ran lean. Running lean causes it to run hot. The excess heat causes the cam material to break down. This seems to be a bunch of BS to me. If I were running lean for 3k miles, I'd see bigger issues.

CAFROG · 03-01-2012, 10:34 PM

The rockers could just be the first thing to weaken and I'm wondering if the ramp of the lobes is the culprit. Especially when one side of your lobe pic looks fine but the other side looks scared pretty bad. With my eyes, your pics look like the rocker wear was towards the end and makes me wonder if the lobe was (for lack of a better phrase) bottoming out and causing the metal wear on rocker and camshaft lobes. But.....wouldn't the valve just open more and cause valve to piston clearance before that happened....I think so. Sorry......just thinking and shooting my thoughts (that went in circles lol)

99sidude · 03-02-2012, 05:39 PM

Skunk2 emailed me today and said that they are sending me a new cam! I'm glad that they are a company that stands behind their product. They will be getting my business in the future, that is certain. They never told me what actually happened.

CAFROG · 03-02-2012, 06:15 PM

I hope there is a difference and you got a bad camshaft....otherwise.....I'm worried it will happen again.

99sidude · 03-02-2012, 11:33 PM

Thats why I'm going to put the cam in.... and sell the bitch. 2 wheeled vehicles are calling my name

11-16-2011, 09:07 PM	#26
vtecsir1 Posts: 3,313	Damn, how old is the head? Get some better oil too. I was running 15-50 mobil 1 with zinc and phosphorus daily driving. Currently running amsoil dominator race oil...Im not daily driving though, Last edited by vtecsir1; 11-16-2011 at 09:10 PM.

11-16-2011, 10:28 PM	#28
josh_crewdson@y Posts: 425	Get some zddp for your oil.. Google it and read up.. I had it happen in my b16 with supertech springs and crower stage 3's, I dremeled the pads even and smooth added the zddp to my mobile 1 synthec and didn't have any problems up to the cam snapping.. I only had lifter wear though.. Last edited by josh_crewdson@y; 11-16-2011 at 11:57 PM.

02-27-2012, 04:17 AM	#33
Magana559 Posts: 2,356	you sir are a Idiot. You want to tune ASAP before you blow it up or lean it out and damage something. I towed a fresh engine to the dyno and dyno tuned it with 0 miles on the engine. I dont know were you get you info but you are wrong. E_SolSi likes this.

02-29-2012, 07:56 PM	#38
\|Chaz\| Posts: 5,183	Have you ever even built a motor, get the fuck out of here retard and that is enough of your all capital words. You're getting negative repped for being such an ass clown. Have fun carrying around your red badge of idiocy. flydex28 and Magana559 like this.

03-01-2012, 09:18 PM	#44
CAFROG Posts: 3,740	Wow...sorry to read this issue is still unresolved. Skunk2 has many guys in the K-series community in an uproar. They constantly complain about product and customer service. Some guys have Dave Hsu pretty upset b/c of their facts and opinions. I am very surprised to read they are expressing such great customer service (but I'm glad to hear). Their K-series stage 2&3 have been known to chew up OEM timing chain tensioners....but any big profile camshaft can do that (especially road course or any endurance). This is what made Hybrid Racing do R&D for their aftermarket TCT. Skunk2 quality control and integrity of their product has been highly questioned. Guys complain a lot based what has happened in the last ten years. Hell Skunk2 was the first to come out with a decent set of B-series VTEC camshafts but that was over a decade ago. They've had their share of changes since (staff, direction, product, ect.) I have done my fair share of camshaft education/research and the more I learn....the more I find out I don't know crap. But I do know that QC can mess up a motor real quick. Stereo lobes versus mono lobes is my newest piece of knowledge. Magana is my boy and he is a budget build genius. Theory of engine break in can be a tender issue. But I agree with Magana. Accelerating and decelerating is sound. But.....we disagree on clutch break in lol. 99sidude.....keep us posted. Did you get that B16 head? Magana559 likes this. __________________ "Meow, you know how fast your were going back there?" My Old B16 Swap (Spring '09) w/CTR cams/springs. http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...si-b16-286581/ My EH3 with a K-swap http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...-r-egg-519537/ Last edited by CAFROG; 03-01-2012 at 10:36 PM.

11-16-2011, 09:34 PM	#27
99sidude Posts: 3,436	I guess its time to run better oil. Been running the cheap penzoil in all of my cars with zero problems. The head isn't that old. Its a 96 spec itr head from an imported Hmotors motor. There was one previous owner who beat the shit out of it. The bottom end had been an inch of being grenaded. Still, the head looked fine 3500 miles ago.

11-16-2011, 10:35 PM	#29
99sidude Posts: 3,436	I'm going to buy a used b16 head off of craigslist and harvest the rockers off of there. That is unless I can get a smokin deal on new rockers at work. Then I'll take fine grit sand paper to the cams and take out any rough spots. There really aren't any, just visual heat/wear marks. Most importantly, I need to track down the root cause, which I feel is oil starvation. Trying to find oil system diagrams now. I'll look in to the additive you are suggesting.

11-17-2011, 10:54 AM	#30
Magana559 Posts: 2,356	valvoline VR1 FTW high zink and under 5 $

02-23-2012, 07:45 PM	#32
HiReviNSpooN Posts: 32	I NEVER HEARD OF A BREAK-IN AT HIGH RPM!!!!!! YOU ARE SUPPOSE TO DRIVE THE CAR NORMAL!!!!!! IT IS Suppose to be tuned for Air & fuel after a 1000 miles so everything is working efficiently. Nothing to gain power from. After the break-in reached 3k miles, then you tuned. Some people do it to 5k just to be safe. And the clearance could be wrong as well if you went by stock specs and not the specs you are given with the cams. Rocker arms could be wearing out but it couldnt cause that in that short period of time. Good luck homie, hope everything works out to your benefits

02-29-2012, 07:46 PM	#37
HiReviNSpooN Posts: 32	Probably did.... Didn't say you can't because you could. Im saying you shouldn't if you understand the process of BREAKING IT IN " IDIOT " . That motor probably blew within the same year. Not because of heavy driving but because you are a idiot for tuning a fresh motor to gain power out of it.

03-01-2012, 08:44 AM	#40
HiReviNSpooN Posts: 32	And if you can tune motor freshly built than i didn't know, I just always chose to break them in first before tuning it for performance. I was told by DRT when i was 16, and yosolo few few years back

03-01-2012, 09:47 PM	#45
99sidude Posts: 3,436	I did get the b16 head. I've got a fresh set of rockers ready to go. Just waiting on SK2 on the cams. The one guy at SK2 believes that the problem is because I ran lean. Running lean causes it to run hot. The excess heat causes the cam material to break down. This seems to be a bunch of BS to me. If I were running lean for 3k miles, I'd see bigger issues.

03-01-2012, 10:34 PM	#46
CAFROG Posts: 3,740	The rockers could just be the first thing to weaken and I'm wondering if the ramp of the lobes is the culprit. Especially when one side of your lobe pic looks fine but the other side looks scared pretty bad. With my eyes, your pics look like the rocker wear was towards the end and makes me wonder if the lobe was (for lack of a better phrase) bottoming out and causing the metal wear on rocker and camshaft lobes. But.....wouldn't the valve just open more and cause valve to piston clearance before that happened....I think so. Sorry......just thinking and shooting my thoughts (that went in circles lol) __________________ "Meow, you know how fast your were going back there?" My Old B16 Swap (Spring '09) w/CTR cams/springs. http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...si-b16-286581/ My EH3 with a K-swap http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...-r-egg-519537/ Last edited by CAFROG; 03-01-2012 at 10:38 PM.

03-02-2012, 05:39 PM	#47
99sidude Posts: 3,436	Skunk2 emailed me today and said that they are sending me a new cam! I'm glad that they are a company that stands behind their product. They will be getting my business in the future, that is certain. They never told me what actually happened. \|Chaz\| likes this.

03-02-2012, 06:15 PM	#48
CAFROG Posts: 3,740	I hope there is a difference and you got a bad camshaft....otherwise.....I'm worried it will happen again.

03-02-2012, 11:33 PM	#49
99sidude Posts: 3,436	Thats why I'm going to put the cam in.... and sell the bitch. 2 wheeled vehicles are calling my name

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