<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>HondaSwap Forums</title>
		<link>http://hondaswap.com</link>
		<description>General questions about how to build your motor up to handle more power or gain performance.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:18:10 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://hondaswap.com/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>HondaSwap Forums</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Piston wrist pin problem</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/piston-wrist-pin-problem-422011/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:01:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>the pistons you have are made for rods which use the pressed in pins, like stock - the eagle rods are made for full floating pins which require...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>the pistons you have are made for rods which use the pressed in pins, like stock - the eagle rods are made for full floating pins which require pistons with grooves and snap rings - pressed in pins fit tight in the rods and the pistons slide back and forth on the pins - full floating pins allow the rod to slide back and forth on the pins and the pin is held in place by the snap rings on each side of the piston - you can't mix and match - you need either, rods made for pressed in pins or pistons made for full floating pins</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>jlicrx</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/piston-wrist-pin-problem-422011/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>D17A2 build advice</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d17a2-build-advice-421133/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:01:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[You're welcome... but you have some conflicting views in there.  If you're not sure about maintaining a turbo system, you really don't want to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>You're welcome... but you have some conflicting views in there.  If you're not sure about maintaining a turbo system, you really don't want to attempt a junkyard turbo setup.<br />
<br />
If you want to avoid machine shop work, then you really can't do anything inside the engine.  Porting, new pistons- all of that requires machine work.  Without it, all you can really do inside the engine is replace the camshaft.  Everything else is external and gives minimal gains towards your 50% goal unless you want to go with boost.<br />
<br />
A new fuel rail and injectors won't help you at all because they're not really performance adders.  They're used to extract more power from parts that increase flow through your engine.  Without the extra airflow, extra fuel can't be burned.  You can optimize your tune a little bit compared to the factory setup without power adders, but you'll gain a few percentage points at best.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>Calesta</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d17a2-build-advice-421133/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[thought I'd find this discussion on here]]></title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/thought-id-find-discussion-here-420500/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:56:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>heres an exhaust you could put on itImage: http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/4/203/4521/38007260484_large.jpg</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>heres an exhaust you could put on it<img src="http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/4/203/4521/38007260484_large.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>jeremy112683</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/thought-id-find-discussion-here-420500/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Will a oem 81mm head gasket  fit a 81.5mm bore</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/will-oem-81mm-head-gasket-fit-81-5mm-bore-421594/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:26:31 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Yes.  OE gaskets are already 81.5mm.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Yes.  OE gaskets are already 81.5mm.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>K2e2vin</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/will-oem-81mm-head-gasket-fit-81-5mm-bore-421594/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>B18/B20 Combustion chamber welding??</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/b18-b20-combustion-chamber-welding-411202/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:41:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[---Quote (Originally by 78civic)--- 
I'd really not mill the head too much, it retards the cam timing and could lead to premature crackin. Especially...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><div style="margin:20px; margin-top:5px; ">
	<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px">Quote:</div>
	<table cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" border="0" width="100%">
	<tr>
		<td class="alt2">
			<hr />
			
				<div>
					Originally Posted by <strong>78civic</strong>
					(Post 1495241)
				</div>
				<div style="font-style:italic">I'd really not mill the head too much, it retards the cam timing and could lead to premature crackin. Especially if you get too close to those little 'nubs'.<br />
 <br />
Just last week my machine shop buddy gave me some high domed pistons that someone dropped off and never picked up for months.<br />
They are coated on the skirts but I don't know if it will raise the comp too much with the B18 head.<br />
I took the rings off and it slid in the B18 block nicely, with little resistance.<br />
 <br />
I need to put them side by side and take a pic. I don't have the barretts or know how to measure the volume of the dome with it pokin out the top of the bore. <br />
I wonder how much could be milled off the crown of the piston??<br />
 <br />
E</div>
			
			<hr />
		</td>
	</tr>
	</table>
</div>Just because they slide in dosent mean they are perfect, your piston to wall clearance should be at OEM specs or of the piston! if not, you will destroy the walls and skirts if they are too tight, if they are too lose you will get way too much blowby and destroy your engine. No good machine shop should bore and hone your block without the pistons your going to use.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>Magana559</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/b18-b20-combustion-chamber-welding-411202/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>what camshaft should i get</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/what-camshaft-should-i-get-415343/</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:01:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[After you get the head off, pull that little oil restricter out so you can clean under it. It might have crap behind it. Even if you have a 'cradle'...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>After you get the head off, pull that little oil restricter out so you can clean under it. It might have crap behind it. Even if you have a 'cradle' that holds your main caps.<br />
(I had an old 1200 that I pulled the plugs in the ends 'just in case', and man was it loaded with metal shavings! Good thing I listened to GOD.) <br />
<br />
I wouldn't trust that block. I know it's a pain but you could ruin the motor in seconds if that crap is still in there. <br />
<br />
E</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>78civic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/what-camshaft-should-i-get-415343/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>D16Y7 Build</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d16y7-build-415677/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:10:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Haha I just found that out in my research. Thanks tho.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Haha I just found that out in my research. Thanks tho.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>GlassHeadlights</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d16y7-build-415677/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>d16y8 turbo??</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d16y8-turbo-413858/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:58:56 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[At around that goal, I'd just get some ARP rod-bolts, Heat-treat your rods, forged pistons/rings and have it all balanced and assemble it right with...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>At around that goal, I'd just get some ARP rod-bolts, Heat-treat your rods, forged pistons/rings and have it all balanced and assemble it right with close tolerances. Honda cranks are pretty stout and usually don't give up that easy. Have a good pocket porting on the head with a mild cam. Have your injectors flowed by a reputable shop.<br />
<br />
Once you build up a good bottom end, you will be less worried about it later when you add more stuff to it. (you know you will..)<br />
<br />
Most important thing is keep it all CLEAN when you build it and if it will sit for a while, Bag it up. You don't want to disassemble it, re-clean and reassemble again.<br />
<br />
Just my .02<br />
E</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>78civic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d16y8-turbo-413858/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>D15b 18 MPG-- What could do this?</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d15b-18-mpg-what-could-do-128992/</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:35:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>How does it idle? ..Rough? (could be a vacume leak)  
Check under the dizzy cap, does it look like red dust covering everything? ..(It shorts out and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How does it idle? ..Rough? (could be a vacume leak) <br />
Check under the dizzy cap, does it look like red dust covering everything? ..(It shorts out and messes up the firing order.) <br />
<br />
Take a look in toward the throttle body opening. Is it all 'gunked up'? If so, clean. The carbon/sludge keeps the butterfly open)<br />
<br />
Check your grounds.  There might be some that are not there or missing.<br />
<br />
E</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>78civic</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d15b-18-mpg-what-could-do-128992/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>All motor LS help/build thread</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/all-motor-ls-help-build-thread-395170/</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:42:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Bringing this back from the dead!  
  
Just bought 82mm ITR NPR pistons and some stock LS rods that im going to shotpeen and have the rod bolts...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Bringing this back from the dead! <br />
 <br />
Just bought 82mm ITR NPR pistons and some stock LS rods that im going to shotpeen and have the rod bolts pressed out. <br />
 <br />
Stock LS block will be bored and honed by the end of december!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>Magana559</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/all-motor-ls-help-build-thread-395170/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>B18C rebuild</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/b18c-rebuild-308247/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:02:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I am in a situtation where i have 11.1 static compression. I will be running e85 to keep it cooler under boost. The problem with higher static is...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am in a situtation where i have 11.1 static compression. I will be running e85 to keep it cooler under boost. The problem with higher static is higher temp for said givin boost. high temps lead to detonation. It is my understanding it is not proportional to the heat generated.. I am installing arp head bolts an .30 thicker head gasket to get down to 10.5 to 1. this is what my tuner told me. i am shooting for at least 320 on stock internals with 1000 injectors. If i had the money i would prefer 10.1 turbo pistons an rings even 9.  b18c itr's are getting 275 plus all day long with quality tuners.(which i am not)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>fcluddington</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/b18c-rebuild-308247/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>intake manifold</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/intake-manifold-415749/</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:07:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>thanks for ur help</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>thanks for ur help</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>monty92</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/intake-manifold-415749/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>d16z6 or d16y7 build?</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d16z6-d16y7-build-413328/</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 21:10:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Go all Z6 and build it. 
  
Do you want to see my Y7? About 100,000 miles. 
  
Image: http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w346/90civicboy/100_3867.jpg...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Go all Z6 and build it.<br />
 <br />
Do you want to see my Y7? About 100,000 miles.<br />
 <br />
<img src="http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w346/90civicboy/100_3867.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<img src="http://i522.photobucket.com/albums/w346/90civicboy/100_3869.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>GlassHeadlights</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/d16z6-d16y7-build-413328/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>how do you know when your cam is in tdc</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/how-do-you-know-when-your-cam-tdc-414642/</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 10 Nov 2009 02:02:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hello all, 
 
i have a 90 civic si with the d16a6. I purchased an exospeed reground stage 2 cam and an aem adj cam gear. I replaced them a year ago...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hello all,<br />
<br />
i have a 90 civic si with the d16a6. I purchased an exospeed reground stage 2 cam and an aem adj cam gear. I replaced them a year ago and haven't started the car yet. (wainting to paint the car). Now that I'm trying to get the car running, the car won't start. I remember having a hard time when I replaced them becasue the old stock cam gear has the notch for tdc. But the new gear didn't have it. <br />
<br />
Anyone out there know how to get the car timed right. I checked my firing order, and reversed the distributor thinking it could be 180 out. But still nothing. I do have spark and have replaced the plugs and put new gas in it (parked it with fumes). I also tried using starting fluid. Not even a sputter. My only thoughts are that when I installed the belt the head wasn't in tdc (the bottom end was at tdc #1 cyl). <br />
<br />
How do you know when the head/cam is in tdc?<br />
<br />
Please Help!!! and thanks!!!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>racejunkie</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/how-do-you-know-when-your-cam-tdc-414642/</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>new motor need help!!!! plez</title>
			<link>http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/new-motor-need-help-plez-413967/</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 22:10:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>:(:confused:i bought a 1992 honda civic dx but the head gasket is messed up. the oil is mixing with the water which is bad so i found a f22b motor...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><font face="Arial"><font size="4">:(:confused:i bought a 1992 honda civic dx but the head gasket is messed up. the oil is mixing with the water which is bad so i found a f22b motor and idk if it will fit in the civic and what other stuff do i got to do to make it run:confused::(</font></font></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/">Engine Building</category>
			<dc:creator>ElOso21</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://hondaswap.com/engine-building/new-motor-need-help-plez-413967/</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
