hybridsol

alright i've got everything figured out but this. its a stock single cam non-vtec, my beater and i'm goin to junkyard turbo it. question is how to boost without the ecu detecting. i've heard of so many ways but whats the cheapest cause i could giva shit less about this car, i just wanna boost it. also one alternative was some chip that i heard about on honda-tech, anyone know if i have to upgrade any fuel things if i go with this chip

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<u>My JDM, H22, ITR, Turbo'd Integra</u> <a href=\'http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831210\' target=\'_blank\'>click here!</a>
<u>project RHD sleeper hatch</u> <a href=\'http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1190974\' target=\'_blank\'>click here!</a>

D See 2

go to the local aquatics store and get about three (3) check valves and put them inline to your map sensor.

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Garage:
1992 CX Hatch > Current Money Pit
Grave:
R.I.P. 1995 Integra GSR
R.I.P. 1990 DX Hatch
R.I.P. 1990 CRX Si

liquid00meth

if your a ghetto banger.


A better solution might be just by the missing link check valve for 50$

__________________
&quot;Our enemies are innovative and resourceful, and so are we.
They never stop thinking about new ways to harm our country and our people, and neither do we.&quot;

-The thought provoking George W. Bush

hybridsol

what am i going to need fuel wise if i use the missing link, could i get by with stock or should i put a pressure regulator on it

__________________
<u>My JDM, H22, ITR, Turbo'd Integra</u> <a href=\'http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=831210\' target=\'_blank\'>click here!</a>
<u>project RHD sleeper hatch</u> <a href=\'http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1190974\' target=\'_blank\'>click here!</a>

liquid00meth

doesn't change anything fuel wise... you need aftermarket fuel setup for turbo.

__________________
&quot;Our enemies are innovative and resourceful, and so are we.
They never stop thinking about new ways to harm our country and our people, and neither do we.&quot;

-The thought provoking George W. Bush

pissedoffsol

pop on some 310cc injectors, am 8:1 FMU, and a missing link.

it will run for a couple months, then blow up

k-lubesprelube

hey how does the check valve hook up?

Turbo&Auto

Why do you need a check valve? I thought the stock map sensor is good to 11psi? mine was anyway.

Seriously though, a lot of people told me to do this and I went against it. Get a socketted ecu and run Crome or some other free program. Its cheap and easy to do and the results are incredible compared to a FMU and shit valves etc...

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www.BackyardTurbo.com

newb

Damn this thread is 5 years old. Anyways, I have been told the same things. The factory MAP is good for right around 11psi, and I was also told to never run a missing link.

Turbo&Auto

LOL, I didnt realize this is an OLD thread LOL!

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www.BackyardTurbo.com

SLOWdelawareEG

you need the missing link if you dont want a check engine light. its a cosmetically nice version of $3 in check valves. if you run the ML, 12:1 fmu on stock injectors, walbro255 pump at 5psi or less, your car will run rich as hell but it definitely wont blow up/torch pistons and will run forever if you take care of it. thats a common misconception about fmu's. theyre alright for a budget minded booster at very low, basic boost levels, just be prepared for a stinky car that gets the gas mileage of an 18 wheeler. but fuck it! youll be boostin!

B

the stock map sensor is CAPABLE of READING boost to 9 or 10 psi (obd0 / obd1or2), however, the ecu WILL throw a code if it sees more than 2psi ish on it, which is why you need the bypass valve.

OR, a chipped solution (with boost tables, so that it can READ it) under the 9-10

LS_VTEC

8:1 FMU is way too much fuel. 12:1 is just about the norm for 8psi safely.

As far as bypassing the MAP sensor, just buy a missing link for like 20 bucks and apply it beneath the map sensor. They even come with extended screws to fit into the throttle body.

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eg hatch (jdm b16) sold
1999 Yamaha YZF R6 (modded)
http://hondaswap.com/engine-building...ow-pics-102486 sold

wadocrx

X2 at least score some DSM 450cc injectors and out a B&M fuel osi regulator on it or it will go bang real fast. Find the missing link on ebay

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Proud co-owner of Tri-Tech Motorsports in Phoenix, AZ

B

lol

8:1 adds 8 psi of fuel rail pressure per pound of boost
12:1 adds 12 psi of fuel rail pressure per pound of boost.

how the fuck do you figure?