vanilladutch89

im turboing my h22 civic hatch and im wondering how does a wastegate work im using a t3t4 garret turbo off of a volvo and im using the stock internal wastegate i got with the turbo how do i ajust the wastgate for less boost without a boost controller ????? do i make it longer or shorter ????? please help i dun wanna blo my h22 lol oo and what do ne one think a volvo turbo stock is set as boost wise ???? the turbo is a garrett t3 t4 but on the turbo it says aireserch

erebunicrx

got this off garrets site.

How does a Wastegate work?
A Wastegate is simply a turbine bypass valve. It works by diverting some portion of the exhaust gas around, instead of through, the turbine. This limits the amount of power that the turbine can deliver to the compressor, thereby limiting the turbo speed and boost level that the compressor provides.

• The Wastegate valve can be "internal" or "external". For internal Wastegates, the valve itself is integrated into the turbine housing and is opened by a turbo-mounted boost-referenced actuator.
• An external Wastegate is a self-contained valve and actuator unit that is completely separate from the turbocharger.
• In either case, the actuator is calibrated (or set electronically with an electronic boost controller) by internal spring pressure to begin opening the Wastegate valve at a predetermined boost level.
• When this boost level is reached, the valve will open and begin to bypass exhaust gas, preventing boost from increasing.

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03 mustang mach1, procharged, built motor, 6sp swap, built rear. 525whp @9psi

00 cbr 929rr 420 conversion -1 +2

vanilladutch89

ok i c that on the wastegate there is an actuater in witch u can turn either closer to the wastegate or further im beleiving that that tells the amount of boost can be made the other end of were the actuater conects from the wastegate it conects onto the exaust on the turbo my question is what direction woyuld i need to adjust the actuater to have less boost compared to more boost

vanilladutch89

and another question i see that u can use a manual boost controller would that be my bestbet and just keep wastgate as is if i do that will the boost controller be able to regulate the boost even though the wastegate is not set as were the controller is set to ??

erebunicrx

the boost controller will only allow you to run more boost not less the the wastegate spring. if you only want to run lets say 10psi just get a spring for that. less complications that way.

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03 mustang mach1, procharged, built motor, 6sp swap, built rear. 525whp @9psi

00 cbr 929rr 420 conversion -1 +2

vanilladutch89

ok well i dont have one that takes a spring im running the one withthe actuater (internal wastegate) my question is is it the actuater that i adjust for more or less boost ??? and do u kno wats a good amount of boost for a h22 ??

erebunicrx

what kinda turbo are you running?

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03 mustang mach1, procharged, built motor, 6sp swap, built rear. 525whp @9psi

00 cbr 929rr 420 conversion -1 +2

Turbo&Auto

Shorten the actuator rod. Either space the wastegate piece further from the turbo using some washers or if you have a threaded rod, thread it in further.

Doing it this cheap way is ok but you can only go so far, it will limit the amount of opening and can create boost spikes. I would get a cheap MBC OR eliminate the internal gate and weld on an external one.

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www.BackyardTurbo.com

vanilladutch89

so u mean like make the psrt that u can turn closer to the turbo rather than making it long soo make it short as possible wont that make it soo the inter nal wastegate is harder to open causing it to open at higher boosts ??? wouldnt i do just the opposite of what u said im asking cuz i dun kno

vanilladutch89

im runnign a t3 t4 tubo from a volvo its a garret but it says airesarch its a rather small one

Turbo&Auto

The thing I told you is for more boost, I just read above again where you say you want to adjust more or less boost. This way we're clear

If your actuator rod isn't threaded you will need to space the can back a lil further from the mount. It should have 2 threaded studs with nuts on the mount. Remove the nuts and pull the can back so the threads come out of the holes. Install a washed on each thread and then reinstall the can. Now you should have the can spaced back slightly because of the washer thickness, this will preload the spring and make it more dificult to open thus creating more boost.

If you DO have a threaded actuator rod turn the end in a few turns. You should have to stretch it a lil harder to get it onto the flapper, again this creates preload and blah blah blah.

OR

Just buy a cheap Ebay MBC and install it on the actuator vacuum line.

Please tell me you have gauges in that car?????

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www.BackyardTurbo.com