StealthMode

Hey guys, I was just wondering what the wastegate is set to on a .48 A/R garrett t28? I have my turbo now, if you didn't read my other thread, and I'm really excited to start piecing the rest of my stuff together. A buddy of mine told me that the t28's come set at around 10-12 psi. I thought they were set at about 8 psi. Also, did my turbo come off of one of the newer TSi's? I have the feeling it did, but I have no idea.

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pissedoffsol

what car is it off of? or what brand is it?

StealthMode

i think it was off of an ecplipse. It's a Garrett t28. This is exactly what it says on the turbo:

intake side:
A/R
.48
M10
exhaust side:
.49
N5S
76U
H2
on the other side of the exhaust part, it says Garrett, and then TR0759

hope that helps you help me...

StealthMode

can anyone help me?

StealthMode

BUMP ^^^ i need some help guys.....

pissedoffsol

dsm 2nd gen t25s run 14psi
dsm 1st gen 14bs run 11.9psi

StealthMode

ok my question is this: would i be able to run that kind of psi with my stock internals, or would it be a better idea to get a boost controller and turn it down to about 6-7 psi? would my motor be able to handle it?

[Freemantle]

Both of those turbos are insanely small. Your D-Series can handle either of those suposing your AFR isn't shot.

Edit: Is anyone else seeing the "turbonator" advertisement? When the hell did CPU fans start sponsoring H-S?

reckedracing

you shouldn't need a boost controller, i think you can adjust the waste gate manually

pissedoffsol

boost controllers can only RAISE boost over the spring pressure. you CANNOT lower boost with a boost controller lower than the spring in the wategate.

14psi off a t28 is nothing really.

but you're going to need a 3-bar map to read it
to use a 3-bar, you're going to need uberdata or better management.

StealthMode

so i wouldn't need to get missing link? how would i go about getting a 3 bar map sensor and what specific parts do i need? i have some money in my friend's paypal account, which was meant for my ex/si tranny (i'm going to send po'd sol a pm to ask him a question about it) anyways i might end up buying some of my turbo parts with it.

pissedoffsol

you don't need a missing link with a computer controlled fuel management system like uberdata, hondata, or aem/speed pro/motec/etc.

you do, however, need larger injectors (440cc should do your setup well), a larger pump (walbro 255lph), the 3-bar map sensor and 3-bar enabled in the fuel management system.

spend a day reading http://hondata.com 's website. even if you end up going with a different system, you will learn a ton about fuel management.

StealthMode

my main dilemma is that i dont' know if anyone around here tunes hondata/uberdata. i can ship my ecu to a guy and he'll chip it with uberdata and ship it back to me for $60. also, i am beginning to think that my ecu got fucked up from being in my friend's 90 accord with H22A. his car wouldn't even run with his ecu, so we tried mine, and it worked fine. ever since then i can't get my vtec working and i'm throwing codes 41 and 22.

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pissedoffsol

just buy a new p28 then. they are 125 bucks with a chipped socket all day.

you're in colorado it appears.... i doin't know any shops out there myself, but perhaps a post in the regional forums can lead you to one..

OR, buy a wideband, and a laptop an a chip burner, and learn it and tuen it your self.
its really not that hard.

StealthMode

i'm quite a bit low in the money department. just got a new phone and plan, new pc and other bills. so i can get a uberdata chipped p28 for around 125?

pissedoffsol

no. you can got a SOCKETED p28 for around $125. rom chips are about $3 each. ubberdata, hondata, etc use generic eeprom chips that you can buy all over the place.
again, like i told you 5 days ago-
go to hondata.com andread the entire tech sections.

StealthMode

i'll get to it. right now i'm up all night doing a marketing plan and another paper for business class. fucking school