General Tech Articles

Articles not necessarily pertaining to swaps or forced induction. Suspension, brakes, engine building, general how-to's and so forth.
Think about what R/S means for a second. Rod length / Stroke length. All it says is that ideally your rods are 1.75 times the length of you stroke. Now if you stop and consider why that ratio is so "good". The longer your rods are compared to you stroke the smaller the angles are between vertical and rod position as the pistons travels up and down. Envision a cross section of an inline reciprocating piston engine. As the piston starts to climb from BDC the rod forms an angle with vertical at the wrist pin. If you have taken any physics this is pretty basic. Think of a force diagram illustrating the forces acting on the wrist pin ( for simplicity sake assume that the piston and wristpin are one unit). The larger the angle between...
Reseting the ECU won't do anything for you. . . you can read the code from the same ECU service connector (passenger side under dash) however to reset the light follow these steps. 1. turn ignition switch off, remove ECU service connector 2. connect (jump) the MES connector (this is 2 pin yellow connector wrapped in yellow plugged in the front of the underdash fuse box) 3. turn ignition switch on 4. SRS light will come on for 6 secs then go out, remove the jumper within 4 secs after the light goes out. 5. the SRS light will come on again, reconnect the jumper within 4 secs after the light has come on. 6. the SRS light will go off, remove the jumper with in 4 secs after the light has gone off. 7. the SRS light will blink two times...
Double Clutching Q: What is double clutching? A: You just watched "The Fast and the Furious" didn't you? Real answer: Double clutching is a downshifting technique that promotes smoother transitions and lower transmission wear. It is useful for road racing, prolonging transmission life, and giving you an overall smoother ride. In normal driving, with modern cars- you don't need to double clutch... ever. When you shift, these neat little devices called "synchronizers" or "synchromesh" (or whatever other name you want to give them) in your transmission help your shifting by matching the rotational speeds between meshing parts. Why do you need to match the speeds between transmission parts when you shift? Simple- they won't go...
Originally posted on the now defunct: http://www.geocities.com/chipman_13/AN-NPT.html AN and NPT Fittings Chart "AN" Thread Sizes AN sizes, originally developed for use by the U.S. Armed Forces ("A" for Army and "N" for Navy), describe the outside diameter (O.D.) of tubing in 1/16-inch increments. For example, an AN 2 fitting will fit a tube with an O.D. of 2/16", or 1/8", while an AN 8 fitting will fit a tube with an O.D. of 8/16", or 1/2". Because the actual thickness of tube walls can vary from brand to brand, the inside diameter of a tube is not used as a reference. You will also find the dash (-) symbol or the word "dash" itself used in conjunction with AN sizes. A "dash six" fitting translates to AN-6. AN fittings and JIC...
ECU Modes There are 2 main operation modes for the ECU. Open Loop OPEN LOOP - this is the mode your ECU is in until the coolant temperature and a couple other sensors get to operating values. The ECU also runs the car in open loop when you are at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) or if there is an error condition causing a check engine light. Limp Mode Open Loop can place the car into a fault condition called Limp Mode. The concept is that something is wrong and the ECU will allow you to 'limp home'. This means, rpm limit around 3k and pulls timing/fuel to generate just enough power to drive it home. This condition helps protect the engine components from further damage and saves you a tow to bring it home or to a shop for repair. If...
Quick answer: Short block = the engine block without the head (block casting, pistons, rods, crank, etc.) Long block = the complete engine, including the head (engine from valve cover to oil pan) A short block and/or long block are NOT substitutes for what most companies sell as a "complete changeover package". These changeover packages typically include the transmission, ECU, and other accessories you'll need to make the engine run in your car. If you buy just the long block, you'd better have the transmission/wiring/ECU for your application- and if you buy just a short block, make sure you have the proper head as well.
**Things You'll Need for the Setup*** You will need atleast the following... -Head Info You must use a B-series DOHC VTEC head. A Prelude H-series head will NOT work. You can choose a head from the following list by code.... --B16a1: this engine came in the 89-91 civic SiR and the Integra XSi in Japan. This is the easiest motor/head to use for 4th Gen civic (EF) swaps. --B16a2/3: this USDM motor came in in the 94-97 DelSol (a3) and is still available in the 99 Civic Si (a2). It was also available in Japan from 92 in the Civic with 170hp compared to the USDM models' 160hp. It has upgraded pistons and slightly more aggressive cams when compared to the B16a1. --B17a: came in the 92-93 USDM Integra GSR. This motor is kinda...
This is an article I wrote for Civicland way back at the beginning of the year, and have just refreshed for general consumption. If you actually need this to change out your headlights and corner lenses, god help you when you try to perform an engine swap. Aside from that, this might be useful for you, so here it is. ---------- DIY: How to install new headlights and corner lenses in a 5th gen Civic; stock vs Hiper bulbs What you'll need:10mm socket, ratchet, driver Medium sized Phillips screwdriver Your new headlights Your new corner lenses Some towels or newspapers An hour or two Note: If you're only replacing your corner lenses, only follow steps 2 and 6. Here we go... 1. Get your bumper off First, pop your hood...
This article assumes you have your factory engine. So, for the hybrids, I wouldn't abide by this unless you were running an engine with moderate compression and no type of forced induction. Courtesy of the FTC.. http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/octane.htm The Low-Down on High Octane Gasoline Are you tempted to buy a high octane gasoline for your car because you want to improve its performance? If so, take note: the recommended gasoline for most cars is regular octane. In fact, in most cases, using a higher octane gasoline than your owner’s manual recommends offers absolutely no benefit. It won’t make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage or run cleaner. Your best bet: listen to your owner’s manual...
There are many things you can do to increase the power of your engine. I'll briefly list and explain just a few ways. 1) Decrease air intake temperature --Decreasing the air intake temp causes more oxygen molecules to fit into your combustion chamber, which then requires more fuel for combustion. This causes the combustion reaction to explode with more pressure, and more power. Hot air intake would not allow as many oxygen molecules to enter combustion, hence making a weaker air/fuel combustion reaction. 2) Increase the intake flow --It is very important to let the combustion chambers of your cylinders recieve as much air as possible. With a restricted air flow into the cylinders, it creates more resistance when the crank has to...
Back
Top