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#1 |
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Junior Member
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Problem With My 1994 Honda Civic EX Vtec D16Z6
My car won't start, the engine cranks over but the engine won't start. The last thing I did was drive the car home and park it, it wasn't overheating or anything just my everyday drive. Then I got up to leave to go to work and the car kinda started and then spluttered and died, after that it wouldn't start again and turned over very fast (almost like it has no compression) That was 2 months ago. I checked that I have fuel and that the relay didn't die; 1.) I have fuel pressure at the filter I checked top dead center and the rotor points to CYL 1 on the Distributor Cap 2.) Timing Belt Isn't Broken / Didn't skip a tooth (right?) I Then Checked For Spark; 3.) NO SPARK Being as there was no spark I bought an MSD External Coil Distributor cap (tec distributor), I removed the stock ignition coil and installed an MSD Blaster 2 Coil (hooked up black/yellow wire (from inside dist) and blue wire to the pos/neg terminals on the coil, pust it back together and no spark. The Black/yellow wire is hot going in to the positive end of the coil and the blue wire (going to negative) is hot when the key is in the on position, car still won't start. So now I'm not sure my blaster coil is good and thinking possibly my ICM (ignition control module) in the distributor could be bad I went and bought a new distributor. Installed New Distributor (not 180 off, its installed right); Car Still Won't Start / No Spark Now when the key is in the on position only the Black/Yellow wire going to the distributor is hot and the blue wire going into the distributor is cold. I checked the main (underhood) fuse box and all the big fuses/relays appear to be fine so why won't my car start? And why does it turn over so quickly now? I pulled a spark plug and had someone put their hand over the hole and it had compression but I don't have a gauge to test actual compression. New Distributor / New OEM Ignition Coil / New ICM / New Plugs / New Wires / New Cap & Rotor / Has Fuel Pressure at Filter / Car Has 3 Gallons of fresh gas / Timing Belt and Water pump replaced 8k miles ago If you can help me out or have had a similar problem I would really appreciate the help, I don't have money to take it to a shop ![]() Thanks Alot Chris_Brainerd@yahoo.com 510.881.8140 |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
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or starter, and please leave out the gambino spec font
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<span style=\"color:red\">"92 Blue EG"</span> -Project 3 - Motor A (NA stock SiR longblock B16 EG/S1tran) 14.3@97 15" radial tires & Gutted -Project 3 - Motor B (NA stock SiRII longblock B16 EG/S4tran) 13.3@103 MT's & Gutted <span style=\"color:red\">"Goldy S13"</span> -Project 4 - Motor A (FI SR20DET w/T28 "Under Construction" <span style=\"color:red\">"Silver E46"</span> -Project 5 - Motor A (???) |
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#5 |
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Junior Member
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sorry about the goomba font I didnt preview it, the car has new plugs & wires and i pulled the plug its not fouled the battery and strter is good so, anything im missing????
thanks for the help so far it is much appreciated Chris |
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#6 |
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Junior Member
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Your negative feed wire to the coil should pulsate when cranking it over, in other words put a test light on it and have someone crank it over the light should light everytime it should be firing. If it isn't check in your distribtor for wiring problems, and yes I know you said it was new.... but you need to start with the basics all over again. If it is pulsating then you should have spark, but is it at the right location it needs to be, you did remove the valve cover and check if the cam was in the correct postion when you had it at TDC (just incase it jumped time) I like to remove the cover just to see location of lobes and cam gear marks at the same time. Just a habit I got into. You say it's turning over faster now right? Why, is the question. Is it at TDC commpresstion stroke or TDC exhaust stroke? Just for grins pull the valve cover, too easy not to. Let me know what you find, I'm curious. Good luck. LLoyd
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