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redef91 · 08-18-2008, 03:58 PM

hi u doing guys just need some adivce. i have 01 type r and it turns oil black fairly quickly i will change the oil and 1500 miles it is black. and is down about 1quart down sometimes 1 1/2 quarts. pulls hard still and doesnt feel any slower than before. any thoughts ive researched but people say pistons rings, if that was the problem wouldnt that b hurting my performance. engine has about 90k on it.

George777 · 08-18-2008, 03:59 PM

Are you smoking out your exhaust? Do you have any leaks? Do you have a CAI? More details about what is/isn't done to the car.

redef91 · 08-18-2008, 04:17 PM

yea its got cai, smokes lil black when i get on it no cat on it. p28 ecu tuned on hondata.

BoostedHatch · 08-18-2008, 05:49 PM

ok a honda engine is gonna use oil because of the vtec and the reason is is has to flow through the silonoid and that silonoid tells the ecu that is has to use oil pressure to lock the vtec in place so a vtec engine is gonna use more oil then a non vtec. now the black oil is build up in ur motor that is getting cleaned out and also what kind of oil do you use?

redef91 · 08-19-2008, 09:10 AM

i use mobil 1 10w30 syn. i use to use 5w30 syn but it burned more quickly.

BoostedHatch · 08-19-2008, 12:33 PM

never use 5w 30 it may say its recommended but its way to thin for how high of rpm a honda can throw and use valvoline it works so much better.

redef91 · 08-19-2008, 12:53 PM

thanx for tip ill try it and ill let u know how it goes next oil change is coming up anyways.

mdpsEG · 08-19-2008, 04:17 PM

having vtec has nothing to do with BURNING oil... yes it does use oil pressure to activate vtec, but that doesnt explain a damn thing about why this guy is burning oil. i would say that you are most likely getting some blow-by on the rings. i had an old LS motor that did this burning oil thing with the little bit of black smoke at high rpms.... everything seemed fine until one day it just took a crap on me... it had about 175k miles on it. you probably havent noticed the power loss yet because it is so gradual, and also because its probably not very much.... yet

BoostedHatch · 08-19-2008, 08:46 PM

ok mr. honda tech thats what i was told by a guy that works at honda or a living.

YBLEGAL · 08-20-2008, 03:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoostedHatch

ok mr. honda tech thats what i was told by a guy that works at honda or a living.

Being a smart ass doesn't help.

VTEC does not burn oil. Not at all. mdpsEG is completely correct.

To the OP:
Please do a compression test and post up the numbers for each cylinder. This should tell you/us. It could just be minor right now and you caught it early; but sounds like rings to me too.

BoostedHatch · 08-20-2008, 03:33 AM

well i guess u learn something new everyday. im just going on what i was told.

YBLEGAL · 08-20-2008, 11:28 AM

Right on. Well, do us a favor (and I'm not trying to sound like a dick), but only answer questions your 100% on. Because mis-information costs us lots of time and money....

BoostedHatch · 08-20-2008, 06:00 PM

caboose · 08-20-2008, 06:31 PM

Ok, 5w-30 and 10w-30 will not make a difference, run what you want. I choose 5w personally, because I like the extra protection during cold starts in the winter.

You are burning oil. You say it does it on acceleration, so it's probably rings. A compression test may not tell you anything. If I had to take a guess, you probably have stuck oil rings. You'll still have good compression, but you will burn oil pretty good. I've heard that you can get them unstuck by running some sort of crankcase cleaner through it, ie seafoam. I personally don't like crankcase cleaners, because they aren't nice to your seals, and they knock off a lot of dirt all at once. Your also suppose to change your oil like 1000mi or so with synthetic for a while until it starts looking cleaner.

You might try just the second part, idk if that will work though.

On my accord i just replaced the rings and cleaned out the ring seats, and the thing ran like a dream. So much smoother now, and better power.

97hatch · 08-20-2008, 08:31 PM

dont switch to some crapy old dyno oil keep useing the quality mobil1 that you have been using and also mr honda you should run the manufacturers recomended oil if you run thicker you run in to oiling problems like bearings not geting oil because the tolerances are to tight for the thick oil to get in to so you will be esentialy runing the bearings dry. thats why thicker oil raises oil presure but on a side note you should be just fine runing 10w30 in the summer and if you would like to know i run royal purple 5w20 in all my hondas even my 91 hatch that has 276k on it used to run the racing 11lite but it burnt to much and it has a weight rating of 0w10

BoostedHatch · 08-20-2008, 09:57 PM

got DICKHEAD? i already said im sorry.

phyregod · 08-20-2008, 10:35 PM

Wow, the blind are leading the blind here. I'd help, but this is kind of entertaining.

George777 · 08-20-2008, 11:03 PM

As soon as I read the comment on madtyteJDMVtec burning oil I sat back and started enjoying the show.

caboose · 08-20-2008, 11:11 PM

I take it you guys see something funny...

gosh, hope it wasn't my post, lol

B16RacerN2NR · 08-21-2008, 01:05 AM

Oil will start to turn a little dark after just a few hundred miles of driving, so it looking black at 1500 miles I wouldn't worry too much about. Now, losing oil is a different story. 90k is nothing on a honda motor, especially an ITR motor. ITR motors are hand built.

If your seals are starting to go, i'd switch to a synthetic high mileage oil. They make both the regular high mileage and synthetic high mileage so make sure you don't just grab anything that says high mileage on it...

and for the record, 5-30 and 10-30 oil has the same thickness when hot, so going from 5-30 to 10-30 makes no difference at all.

hope801 · 08-21-2008, 01:21 AM

i use Valvoline Max Life 10w40 (summer). 199,000 on the clock

George777 · 08-21-2008, 01:39 AM

Cars need oil to run? Shit. That's what I was doing wrong.

I'll fill it up when I check my VTECH juice tomorrow.

redef91 · 08-23-2008, 09:28 AM

replacing my pistons and piston rings would take care of the problem then right. i mean i would like to replace before shit gets worse.

caboose · 08-23-2008, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redef91

replacing my pistons and piston rings would take care of the problem then right. i mean i would like to replace before shit gets worse.

Pistons are fine, just re-ring. Your car isn't going to blow up though if you don't do anything about it, you are just burning oil

08-18-2008, 03:58 PM	#1
redef91 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston,Ma Posts: 236 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 civic lx w/b18a1 swap(daily driver),91 crx si w/c5 in it(on a 100shot).01 s2000 for the weekends Rep Power: 10	2001 type r hi u doing guys just need some adivce. i have 01 type r and it turns oil black fairly quickly i will change the oil and 1500 miles it is black. and is down about 1quart down sometimes 1 1/2 quarts. pulls hard still and doesnt feel any slower than before. any thoughts ive researched but people say pistons rings, if that was the problem wouldnt that b hurting my performance. engine has about 90k on it.

08-20-2008, 11:28 AM	#12
YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 2,220 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 2000 EJ8 w/ SiR-II Rep Power: 46	Right on. Well, do us a favor (and I'm not trying to sound like a dick), but only answer questions your 100% on. Because mis-information costs us lots of time and money.... __________________ YBLEGAL.NET → Profile • Projects • Parts For Sale → Steel Braided Brake Lines • Front Camber Kit (Price Drop) • Manual Brake Pedal

08-20-2008, 06:31 PM	#14
caboose I still know everything Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Hamilton, MI Age: 20 Posts: 304 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 CRX HF, 96 Accord EX, 88 Dodge Daytona Shelbyz T-tops Rep Power: 6	Ok, 5w-30 and 10w-30 will not make a difference, run what you want. I choose 5w personally, because I like the extra protection during cold starts in the winter. You are burning oil. You say it does it on acceleration, so it's probably rings. A compression test may not tell you anything. If I had to take a guess, you probably have stuck oil rings. You'll still have good compression, but you will burn oil pretty good. I've heard that you can get them unstuck by running some sort of crankcase cleaner through it, ie seafoam. I personally don't like crankcase cleaners, because they aren't nice to your seals, and they knock off a lot of dirt all at once. Your also suppose to change your oil like 1000mi or so with synthetic for a while until it starts looking cleaner. You might try just the second part, idk if that will work though. On my accord i just replaced the rings and cleaned out the ring seats, and the thing ran like a dream. So much smoother now, and better power. __________________ Formerly the.original.kermit Back from the dead... twice I NEED PARTS!!! http://hondaswap.com/parts-sale-trade-wanted/wtb-1989-crx-parts-161172/#post1079066 Check out my progress... http://hondaswap.com/auto-multi-media/my-1989-crx-project-144941/

08-20-2008, 08:31 PM	#15
97hatch ? Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Anderson IN Age: 25 Posts: 1,125 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: i have 14 cars i drive my sohc turbo ef Rep Power: 25	dont switch to some crapy old dyno oil keep useing the quality mobil1 that you have been using and also mr honda you should run the manufacturers recomended oil if you run thicker you run in to oiling problems like bearings not geting oil because the tolerances are to tight for the thick oil to get in to so you will be esentialy runing the bearings dry. thats why thicker oil raises oil presure but on a side note you should be just fine runing 10w30 in the summer and if you would like to know i run royal purple 5w20 in all my hondas even my 91 hatch that has 276k on it used to run the racing 11lite but it burnt to much and it has a weight rating of 0w10 __________________ SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.

08-20-2008, 11:11 PM	#19
caboose I still know everything Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Hamilton, MI Age: 20 Posts: 304 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 CRX HF, 96 Accord EX, 88 Dodge Daytona Shelbyz T-tops Rep Power: 6	I take it you guys see something funny... gosh, hope it wasn't my post, lol __________________ Formerly the.original.kermit Back from the dead... twice I NEED PARTS!!! http://hondaswap.com/parts-sale-trade-wanted/wtb-1989-crx-parts-161172/#post1079066 Check out my progress... http://hondaswap.com/auto-multi-media/my-1989-crx-project-144941/


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08-18-2008, 03:59 PM	#2
George777 Resident Fat Ass Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Ansonia, CT Age: 25 Posts: 1,571 iTrader: 1 / 100% Ride: 90 Hatch, 91 Rex, 85 Yamaha Virago, 82 CB900F Supersport Rep Power: 58	Are you smoking out your exhaust? Do you have any leaks? Do you have a CAI? More details about what is/isn't done to the car.

08-18-2008, 04:17 PM	#3
redef91 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston,Ma Posts: 236 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 civic lx w/b18a1 swap(daily driver),91 crx si w/c5 in it(on a 100shot).01 s2000 for the weekends Rep Power: 10	yea its got cai, smokes lil black when i get on it no cat on it. p28 ecu tuned on hondata.

08-18-2008, 05:49 PM	#4
BoostedHatch Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bossier City, Louisiana Age: 19 Posts: 153 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 EF Civic Hatch Rep Power: 2	ok a honda engine is gonna use oil because of the vtec and the reason is is has to flow through the silonoid and that silonoid tells the ecu that is has to use oil pressure to lock the vtec in place so a vtec engine is gonna use more oil then a non vtec. now the black oil is build up in ur motor that is getting cleaned out and also what kind of oil do you use?

08-19-2008, 09:10 AM	#5
redef91 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston,Ma Posts: 236 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 civic lx w/b18a1 swap(daily driver),91 crx si w/c5 in it(on a 100shot).01 s2000 for the weekends Rep Power: 10	i use mobil 1 10w30 syn. i use to use 5w30 syn but it burned more quickly.

08-19-2008, 12:33 PM	#6
BoostedHatch Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bossier City, Louisiana Age: 19 Posts: 153 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 EF Civic Hatch Rep Power: 2	never use 5w 30 it may say its recommended but its way to thin for how high of rpm a honda can throw and use valvoline it works so much better.

08-19-2008, 12:53 PM	#7
redef91 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston,Ma Posts: 236 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 civic lx w/b18a1 swap(daily driver),91 crx si w/c5 in it(on a 100shot).01 s2000 for the weekends Rep Power: 10	thanx for tip ill try it and ill let u know how it goes next oil change is coming up anyways.

08-19-2008, 04:17 PM	#8
mdpsEG Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: north palm beach, FL Age: 28 Posts: 260 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: B20/vtec DC, Nissan Xterra SE, 16ft Caprice Skiff Rep Power: 9	having vtec has nothing to do with BURNING oil... yes it does use oil pressure to activate vtec, but that doesnt explain a damn thing about why this guy is burning oil. i would say that you are most likely getting some blow-by on the rings. i had an old LS motor that did this burning oil thing with the little bit of black smoke at high rpms.... everything seemed fine until one day it just took a crap on me... it had about 175k miles on it. you probably havent noticed the power loss yet because it is so gradual, and also because its probably not very much.... yet

08-19-2008, 08:46 PM	#9
BoostedHatch Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bossier City, Louisiana Age: 19 Posts: 153 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 EF Civic Hatch Rep Power: 2	ok mr. honda tech thats what i was told by a guy that works at honda or a living.

08-20-2008, 03:33 AM	#11
BoostedHatch Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bossier City, Louisiana Age: 19 Posts: 153 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 EF Civic Hatch Rep Power: 2	well i guess u learn something new everyday. im just going on what i was told.

08-20-2008, 06:00 PM	#13
BoostedHatch Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bossier City, Louisiana Age: 19 Posts: 153 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 EF Civic Hatch Rep Power: 2	k

08-20-2008, 09:57 PM	#16
BoostedHatch Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Bossier City, Louisiana Age: 19 Posts: 153 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 89 EF Civic Hatch Rep Power: 2	got DICKHEAD? i already said im sorry.

08-20-2008, 11:03 PM	#18
George777 Resident Fat Ass Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Ansonia, CT Age: 25 Posts: 1,571 iTrader: 1 / 100% Ride: 90 Hatch, 91 Rex, 85 Yamaha Virago, 82 CB900F Supersport Rep Power: 58	As soon as I read the comment on madtyteJDMVtec burning oil I sat back and started enjoying the show.

08-21-2008, 01:05 AM	#20
B16RacerN2NR I DonkeyPunch Hypocrites Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Lancaster, CA Age: 25 Posts: 4,741 iTrader: 1 / 100% Ride: 06 Mazda 5, 92 BMW 318is Rep Power: 107	Oil will start to turn a little dark after just a few hundred miles of driving, so it looking black at 1500 miles I wouldn't worry too much about. Now, losing oil is a different story. 90k is nothing on a honda motor, especially an ITR motor. ITR motors are hand built. If your seals are starting to go, i'd switch to a synthetic high mileage oil. They make both the regular high mileage and synthetic high mileage so make sure you don't just grab anything that says high mileage on it... and for the record, 5-30 and 10-30 oil has the same thickness when hot, so going from 5-30 to 10-30 makes no difference at all. __________________ *Now that Obama, a (half) Black man, is the President, I don't want to hear anymore about this so-called 'man' who's been holding your lazy ass back. Go get a damn job...*

08-23-2008, 09:28 AM	#23
redef91 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston,Ma Posts: 236 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 90 civic lx w/b18a1 swap(daily driver),91 crx si w/c5 in it(on a 100shot).01 s2000 for the weekends Rep Power: 10	replacing my pistons and piston rings would take care of the problem then right. i mean i would like to replace before shit gets worse.

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