Hondaswap.com | Honda Technical & JDM styling Forums

raysee · 10-22-2009, 12:34 AM

I have spent about 4 hours looking at previous posts for a similar problem. I can't find an answer so I thought maybe I should just ask. I have a 2000 Civic SI with a B18C (ITR) motor, tranny, and ECU swap. The car has had MANY small issues over the years and here is another one. The car idles at about 250-500RPM usually but will sometimes idle normally (750-1000 RPM). The car is as great as it ever was as long as the gas pedal is depressed. Doesn't matter if I am going 25 MPH in a construction zone or if I am on a country road with the pedal to the floor listening to the beautiful sound of the N/A motor roaring the Apexi NOIR cat back exhaust. Pull up to a stop light, idle returns to retarded mode and the car dies. Does this sound like a fuel pump issue? I say no because if it was, wouldn't the car act up all of the time? I have new MSD 8.5 wires, new plugs, clean air filter, fuel filter is less than 1 year old, fuel injectors ohm tested good, and I cant find any cracked or broken vaccum hoses. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

raysee · 10-22-2009, 01:50 AM

.............I also want to let u guys know that I have unplugged the IACV and the car dies. From what I have read, on my car...this is the desired result. No I haven't cleaned the IACV, but it did respond appropriately when I disconnected it. Should I clean it or is this test enough to ensure that it is fine?

double0Si · 10-22-2009, 05:00 AM

I'd clean it to be on the safe side.

hondajunkie92 · 10-22-2009, 11:58 AM

hey u might wanna try your mad censor, if its out it wi cause your car to idle crappy and die let me know how it goes

hondajunkie92 · 10-22-2009, 11:59 AM

sorry i ment to say map censor

93y7 · 10-22-2009, 12:03 PM

any vacuum leaks? i would check that too

99sidude · 10-22-2009, 07:56 PM

did you ever mess with the throttle stop screw or the tps sensor (DONT!). did you try the idle adjustment screw at all?

raysee · 10-22-2009, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hondajunkie92

sorry i ment to say map censor

I knew what u meant,

raysee · 10-22-2009, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by double0Si

I'd clean it to be on the safe side.

i didn't want to, but i guess i will. Just remove it and clean it with what, TBI cleaner?

raysee · 10-22-2009, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 93y7

any vacuum leaks? i would check that too

I have looked, but not found any

raysee · 10-22-2009, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99sidude

did you ever mess with the throttle stop screw or the tps sensor (DONT!). did you try the idle adjustment screw at all?

I haven't messed with any of these. Remember, sometimes it idles okay, should I still try the idle adjustment screw, and where is it if so?

Thanks guys, looks like I got a lot more shit to look at at.

97hatch · 10-22-2009, 10:08 PM

try to cleanthe iacv with some throttle body cleaner and also look all over for any loose wires

GlassHeadlights · 10-23-2009, 02:28 AM

I don't think it would be a vacuum leak, it would idle high and surge.

Timing set? Clogged cat? Any CEL's?

raysee · 10-23-2009, 10:53 AM

I don't know if the timing is correct, i don't think the cat is clogged because it is a "high performance" cat (straight through), and there are no CEL's which doesn't tell me shit anyway because even when my primary O2 sensor went bad, there was no CEL. I chased that problem for about a year and a half before someone said replace it anyway and see what happens. I think my "buddies" took some short cuts when they helped me do the swap. Good info, I will clean the IACV hopefully this weekend and see what happens, but first, I gotta work on my Taurus (DD)

This is the first time someone said they did NOT think the problem is vaccum related. Just an FYI

Thanks again guys

K2e2vin · 10-23-2009, 01:00 PM

Clean the IACV and FITV(if you have one). The issue is not vacuum since you're idling low, not high. And yes, try replacing the primary O2 and also check the TPS voltage(range should be something like .5-4.5v between closed and WOT).

My brother had very similar issues but was O2 related. No CELs either.

raysee · 10-24-2009, 03:52 PM

Yesterday bwas the first time I have drove the civic in awhile. It started cutting out and acting as if it were starving for fuel again (this is how it acted when the O2 sensor went out). Then today, I removed the IACV and gave it a good cleaning. While I was waiting on it to air dry, I cleaned the throttle body. I have never done so before, so what does normal look like? I sprayed the throttle body cleaner into the throttle body without opening the throttle plate, but when I wiped out from behind the throttle plate, there was a whole bunch of dirty shit back there, I mean a LOT. anywho, I put everything back together (installed IACV), started the car and it idles at about 500 rpm all the time now. I reved the RPM to 3K held for a couple of minutes and let the RPM come down to normal. Instead of idling, the car dies. I started it back up and it idles at 500 again. Rev up to 1,500 RPM this time, release the gas pedal and the car dies again. I did this probably 15 times and each time i left off of the gas, the car now dies. Anyone else think I screwed something up? I cant test TPS until I get a multimeter or have a friend of mine come over, but I will ASAP.

raysee · 10-24-2009, 03:54 PM

No FITV either, I have a 5 spd

GlassHeadlights · 10-24-2009, 08:47 PM

Possibly in the dizzy.

raysee · 10-30-2009, 07:07 PM

UPDATE:
I tested the MAP and TPS sensors. On the MAP sensor, the voltage on the connector is good and so is the votage at the sensor. On the TPS sensor, the voltage to the connector is 5.0 volts which is where it should be. When I tested the sensor, the volts started at 0.2 volts with the throttle closed. as I opened the throttle, the volts raised to 4.2 volts steadily. Now the Haynes manual says that the volts should start at 0.5 and steadily increase to 4.5 volts as the throttle goes from closed to WOT. is this difference of 0.3 volts an issue or am I okay? Also, I had to use a jumper wire from the volt meter lead to the straight pin that I back probed the connecter with. Could the jumper wire create the 0.3 volt deficit?

99sidude · 10-30-2009, 08:00 PM

you're fine with it being .3 off at wot

K2e2vin · 10-30-2009, 10:30 PM

The problem is not so much WOT, but rather the closed position. If you can't rotate it to get the voltage range needed, replace it, as this will cause a problem(and probably is the source of your problem).

Get the TPS fixed.

raysee · 10-31-2009, 07:08 PM

HAHAHA, here is my problem, 1 guy says leave it and 1 guy says fix it. I admit I dont know a lot about this issue so I am asking but it is hard to know what to do when one person says fix it and the other says it is fine. If I do replace it, is there a specific one I should buy? I know a lot of companies sell TPS sensors (except Honda of course), so which (if any) is of the better quality?

K2e2vin · 11-01-2009, 05:49 AM

being off by .3 is a LOT especially considering closed position is at .45-.5.

It looks like the TPS is fine; it just needs to be rotated. Just loosen it; and rotate it until you get about .5 for closed position. If your TPS has the "rivets", just get a dremel or fine hacksaw and put slots in it to take it out/loosen it with a flathead screwdriver(for my brother's car I just replaced it with bolts).

raysee · 11-02-2009, 09:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K2e2vin

being off by .3 is a LOT especially considering closed position is at .45-.5.

It looks like the TPS is fine; it just needs to be rotated. Just loosen it; and rotate it until you get about .5 for closed position. If your TPS has the "rivets", just get a dremel or fine hacksaw and put slots in it to take it out/loosen it with a flathead screwdriver(for my brother's car I just replaced it with bolts).

Thanks for the advice, I will try it tomorrow (Tuesday) hopefully.

raysee · 11-09-2009, 07:35 PM

UPDATE:
I adjusted the TPS and now have the correct voltage readinds (0.5 closed throttle and 4.5 WOT). The car still has its problem but now is cutting out really bad when I am driving the car. I am gonna test the primary O2 sensor next weekend unless somebody has any better suggestions.

10-22-2009, 12:34 AM	#1
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	B18C idles like crap and dies at stop lights I have spent about 4 hours looking at previous posts for a similar problem. I can't find an answer so I thought maybe I should just ask. I have a 2000 Civic SI with a B18C (ITR) motor, tranny, and ECU swap. The car has had MANY small issues over the years and here is another one. The car idles at about 250-500RPM usually but will sometimes idle normally (750-1000 RPM). The car is as great as it ever was as long as the gas pedal is depressed. Doesn't matter if I am going 25 MPH in a construction zone or if I am on a country road with the pedal to the floor listening to the beautiful sound of the N/A motor roaring the Apexi NOIR cat back exhaust. Pull up to a stop light, idle returns to retarded mode and the car dies. Does this sound like a fuel pump issue? I say no because if it was, wouldn't the car act up all of the time? I have new MSD 8.5 wires, new plugs, clean air filter, fuel filter is less than 1 year old, fuel injectors ohm tested good, and I cant find any cracked or broken vaccum hoses. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

10-22-2009, 10:08 PM	#12
97hatch ? Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Anderson IN Age: 26 Posts: 1,589 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: i have 14 cars i drive my sohc turbo ef Rep Power: 34	try to cleanthe iacv with some throttle body cleaner and also look all over for any loose wires __________________ SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.

10-23-2009, 01:00 PM	#15
K2e2vin Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Raleigh, NC Age: 22 Posts: 6,367 iTrader: 2 / 100% Ride: 88 Honda Civic HB Rep Power: 150	Clean the IACV and FITV(if you have one). The issue is not vacuum since you're idling low, not high. And yes, try replacing the primary O2 and also check the TPS voltage(range should be something like .5-4.5v between closed and WOT). My brother had very similar issues but was O2 related. No CELs either. __________________ 1988 Honda Civic Standard-more mods than I want to list 1992 Honda Accord LX 1996 Toyota Avalon-Spun bearing, for sale. Terrorists have successfully attacked our imagination. RIP Jon Eban Nie, August 31, 1991 - May 7, 2006 Y-Daniel Siu Eban, September 7, 1986 - May 7, 2006

10-30-2009, 10:30 PM	#21
K2e2vin Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Raleigh, NC Age: 22 Posts: 6,367 iTrader: 2 / 100% Ride: 88 Honda Civic HB Rep Power: 150	The problem is not so much WOT, but rather the closed position. If you can't rotate it to get the voltage range needed, replace it, as this will cause a problem(and probably is the source of your problem). Get the TPS fixed. __________________ 1988 Honda Civic Standard-more mods than I want to list 1992 Honda Accord LX 1996 Toyota Avalon-Spun bearing, for sale. Terrorists have successfully attacked our imagination. RIP Jon Eban Nie, August 31, 1991 - May 7, 2006 Y-Daniel Siu Eban, September 7, 1986 - May 7, 2006

10-31-2009, 07:08 PM	#22
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	HAHAHA, here is my problem, 1 guy says leave it and 1 guy says fix it. I admit I dont know a lot about this issue so I am asking but it is hard to know what to do when one person says fix it and the other says it is fine. If I do replace it, is there a specific one I should buy? I know a lot of companies sell TPS sensors (except Honda of course), so which (if any) is of the better quality? Last edited by raysee; 10-31-2009 at 07:42 PM.


Welcome, Guest! Please Register or Login: User Name Password Members have access to more features, better search, and see fewer ads! It's free, what are you waiting for?

10-22-2009, 01:50 AM	#2
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	.............I also want to let u guys know that I have unplugged the IACV and the car dies. From what I have read, on my car...this is the desired result. No I haven't cleaned the IACV, but it did respond appropriately when I disconnected it. Should I clean it or is this test enough to ensure that it is fine?

10-22-2009, 11:58 AM	#4
hondajunkie92 Greenhorn Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: texas Age: 17 Posts: 5 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 92 honda prelude Rep Power: 0	hey u might wanna try your mad censor, if its out it wi cause your car to idle crappy and die let me know how it goes

10-22-2009, 11:59 AM	#5
hondajunkie92 Greenhorn Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: texas Age: 17 Posts: 5 iTrader: 0 / 0% Ride: 92 honda prelude Rep Power: 0	sorry i ment to say map censor

10-22-2009, 12:03 PM	#6
93y7 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 228 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 6	any vacuum leaks? i would check that too

10-23-2009, 10:53 AM	#14
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	I don't know if the timing is correct, i don't think the cat is clogged because it is a "high performance" cat (straight through), and there are no CEL's which doesn't tell me shit anyway because even when my primary O2 sensor went bad, there was no CEL. I chased that problem for about a year and a half before someone said replace it anyway and see what happens. I think my "buddies" took some short cuts when they helped me do the swap. Good info, I will clean the IACV hopefully this weekend and see what happens, but first, I gotta work on my Taurus (DD) This is the first time someone said they did NOT think the problem is vaccum related. Just an FYI Thanks again guys

10-24-2009, 03:52 PM	#16
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	Yesterday bwas the first time I have drove the civic in awhile. It started cutting out and acting as if it were starving for fuel again (this is how it acted when the O2 sensor went out). Then today, I removed the IACV and gave it a good cleaning. While I was waiting on it to air dry, I cleaned the throttle body. I have never done so before, so what does normal look like? I sprayed the throttle body cleaner into the throttle body without opening the throttle plate, but when I wiped out from behind the throttle plate, there was a whole bunch of dirty shit back there, I mean a LOT. anywho, I put everything back together (installed IACV), started the car and it idles at about 500 rpm all the time now. I reved the RPM to 3K held for a couple of minutes and let the RPM come down to normal. Instead of idling, the car dies. I started it back up and it idles at 500 again. Rev up to 1,500 RPM this time, release the gas pedal and the car dies again. I did this probably 15 times and each time i left off of the gas, the car now dies. Anyone else think I screwed something up? I cant test TPS until I get a multimeter or have a friend of mine come over, but I will ASAP.

10-24-2009, 03:54 PM	#17
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	No FITV either, I have a 5 spd

10-30-2009, 07:07 PM	#19
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	UPDATE: I tested the MAP and TPS sensors. On the MAP sensor, the voltage on the connector is good and so is the votage at the sensor. On the TPS sensor, the voltage to the connector is 5.0 volts which is where it should be. When I tested the sensor, the volts started at 0.2 volts with the throttle closed. as I opened the throttle, the volts raised to 4.2 volts steadily. Now the Haynes manual says that the volts should start at 0.5 and steadily increase to 4.5 volts as the throttle goes from closed to WOT. is this difference of 0.3 volts an issue or am I okay? Also, I had to use a jumper wire from the volt meter lead to the straight pin that I back probed the connecter with. Could the jumper wire create the 0.3 volt deficit?

11-01-2009, 05:49 AM	#23
K2e2vin Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Raleigh, NC Age: 22 Posts: 6,367 iTrader: 2 / 100% Ride: 88 Honda Civic HB Rep Power: 150	being off by .3 is a LOT especially considering closed position is at .45-.5. It looks like the TPS is fine; it just needs to be rotated. Just loosen it; and rotate it until you get about .5 for closed position. If your TPS has the "rivets", just get a dremel or fine hacksaw and put slots in it to take it out/loosen it with a flathead screwdriver(for my brother's car I just replaced it with bolts). __________________ 1988 Honda Civic Standard-more mods than I want to list 1992 Honda Accord LX 1996 Toyota Avalon-Spun bearing, for sale. Terrorists have successfully attacked our imagination. RIP Jon Eban Nie, August 31, 1991 - May 7, 2006 Y-Daniel Siu Eban, September 7, 1986 - May 7, 2006

11-09-2009, 07:35 PM	#25
raysee Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Midwest Age: 30 Posts: 26 iTrader: 0 / 0% Rep Power: 1	UPDATE: I adjusted the TPS and now have the correct voltage readinds (0.5 closed throttle and 4.5 WOT). The car still has its problem but now is cutting out really bad when I am driving the car. I am gonna test the primary O2 sensor next weekend unless somebody has any better suggestions.

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
holy crap, we're in deep crap!!!!	jeffie7	Members' Lounge	12	06-22-2005 01:16 AM
car idles like crap and gas is in the exhaust	LsB16CrxHF	General Tech and Maintenance	3	05-07-2005 11:47 AM
Engine idles good, btu like crap at 2,500	69crx69	HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA	5	09-28-2004 11:01 PM
Civic Dies At A Stop	randerson165	General Tech and Maintenance	6	01-17-2003 04:01 PM

Hondaswap.com | Honda Technical & JDM styling Forums

B18C idles like crap and dies at stop lights