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help w/header install,cel problem

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Old 04-05-2005, 02:11 PM   #1
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Okay I'm about to order my new header for my b16 gen 1 today. I have a dc sports 4-2-1 header the thing is when I jacked it up it has 2 o2 bungs I think. It has 2 sleeves it looks like with wires coming out but dc sports only come with 1 bung hole. The previous owner did this and I have no clue what to do. The aftermarket headers for a 94 delsol and 99 SI DOHC all have 1 o2 bung right in the middle by the outlet. What do I do here?

Also I'm trying to decide which header to buy. The megan racing header is 120 and 135 with a cat delete but it only has a 2.1 outlet? The JDM replica type r is 200 and the dc sports 4-1 is 235. Which 1? Not sure about the outlet size on the dc I think the r is 2.5.

Also I have gutted my cat but I have a apexi catback I believe its world sport. Are all aftermarket exhaust systems 2.5 or is mine? Also it has 2 cat looking like reasonators after the cat are this restricting performance or should I remove them. The car is'nt loud at all and has no farty sound at all. I love the exhaust sound but I wanna make sure its flowing its best.

I also am throwing a check engine+ it seems after getting on it hard on deceleration especially. It only does this sometimes and mostly after running it hard and letting off the pedal.

thanks
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Old 04-05-2005, 04:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally posted by Samuels@Apr 5 2005, 01:11 PM
Okay I'm about to order my new header for my b16 gen 1 today. I have a dc sports 4-2-1 header the thing is when I jacked it up it has 2 o2 bungs I think. It has 2 sleeves it looks like with wires coming out but dc sports only come with 1 bung hole.
obd0 ecu's use a split signal-- one for each pair of runners.

you need to run the 2nd o2 to signal C8



this is the stock header set up:





here's a DC modified to fit two bungs- you can pick up a bung for like $1 at a hardware store and weld it in place...





that's the correct way to do it.

if you don't have a welder, any exhaust shop should be able to do this. and PLUG the bung near the back of the collector.

the ecu uses 1 o2 sensor to adjust the a/f ratio for the pair of cyl it flows.

1 o2 for 1 & 4.
1 o2 for 2 & 3.

this is the way the pr3 and pw0 ecu's are designed to work.


Quote:

Also I'm trying to decide which header to buy. The megan racing header is 120 and 135 with a cat delete but it only has a 2.1 outlet? The JDM replica type r is 200 and the dc sports 4-1 is 235. Which 1? Not sure about the outlet size on the dc I think the r is 2.5.
megan = crap. don't even consider it.

if you go with a 2.5" collector, keep in mind it requires a 2.5" cat. i personally don't have an opinion on either. they are both pretty much the same thing. the DC may be easier to modify...

Quote:
Also I have gutted my cat but I have a apexi catback I believe its world sport. Are all aftermarket exhaust systems 2.5 or is mine?
i've seen 2-4.5" on the regualr market. it can be anything, or any metric measurement in between. most likely, its 60mm.


Quote:
Also it has 2 cat looking like reasonators after the cat are this restricting performance or should I remove them. The car is'nt loud at all and has no farty sound at all. I love the exhaust sound but I wanna make sure its flowing its best.
removing the resonator will make it loud, and the gain is like .00000001 in the 1/4 mile. so not worth it.

Quote:
I also am throwing a check engine+ it seems after getting on it hard on deceleration especially. It only does this sometimes and mostly after running it hard and letting off the pedal.
pull the code.

Quote:
thanks
werd
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Old 04-06-2005, 12:07 AM   #3
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Thanks was for whoever helped me in this thread. So basically the thing is wired up the correct way with 2 o2 bungs on my dc sports 4-2-1 and I should copy that setup for my new header?

Is 60mm 2.4 inches diameter?

I'm a complete newby with regards to ecu's. I exactly do I check to see what code its throwing?
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Old 04-06-2005, 03:30 PM   #4
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60mm= 2.36in
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