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#1 |
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Member
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How do I go about with bleeding the clutch fluid from a H22a1. Every time I push down on the clutch pedal, it drop straight down to the floor. I checked out the hydradic on the transmission, and found fluid had leaked out. A good amount clutch fluid had leaked out everywhere. I just want to bleed the clutch fluid, and tighten bolts to see if it was a lose bolt. So, I need some information on how to bleed the clutch fluid. Thanks!
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1. 95' Honda Accord EX Coupe, 1994 JDM H22A (Front-Clip), AEM Cold Air Intake, JDM Headers (JAZMA), 2.25' Test Pipe, World Sport 2 Exhaust. 2. 05' Suzuki GSX-R 1000 - ( Future Mod ) Tri - Oval Yoshumira Full-Exhaust system / Carbon Fiber. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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The bleeder should be near the transmission and should have a rubber cover over the end of it, you will need someone to help you with this,take the cap off of the clutch master cylinder, then loosen the bleeder and have someone push down the clutch pedal and hold it to the floor, then tighten down the bleeder, then the pedal can be released from the floor, check the fluid level, repeat if necessary.
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DB8 450whp project...... |
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#3 |
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The Trisexual
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey
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you can do it by yourself.
Put the wrench on the end of the bleeder valve, put a hose over the nipple, put the other end of the hose in a cup of brake fluid, open the valve, press and release the pedal 20 times or so. Close the valve, get back in press and release the pedal...it will get stiff. __________________
DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1 |
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#4 | |
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Soy Boricua
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Quote:
Thats How I do It...... |
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#5 | |
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
Thats How I do It......[/b][/quote] Just make sure you keep adding fluid. The resivoior for fluid is TINY. After 8 pumps or so, the thing is already empty, then you have to do it all again. Also, the pedal will have zero pressure when you pump it, so it won't come up on its own. I always do it barefoot and just pull it up with my toes. But yea, you don't need anyone else there because the valve is a one way valve so no air come back in. __________________
Collin Material Science and Engineering Michigan Technological University |
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#6 |
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Super Moderator
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If you're really slick, and pump slow, it's also possible to run that same hose right back to the master resevoir. No fluid is lost except for what is needed to displace the air in the system. It can be messy if you aren't careful.
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-------------------- -------------------- 2003 Chevy Avalanche Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice. 1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends) JDM H22A H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty. |
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#7 | |
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Soy Boricua
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 2,028
iTrader: 1 / 100%
Ride: BoOsted fodo civic
Rep Power: 32
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Quote:
damn, you're going to need a long hose for that....I'd rather buy more brake fluid....I thought I was CHEAP jk |
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#8 |
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Member
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Yeah, I bled the clutch fluid with the help of my buddy. I found out what the problem was with the clutch. The slave cylinder has a crack which is leaking the clutch fluid. I'm planning to replace the slave cylinder. So, I guess I'll need help with replacing the slave cylinder. Does anyone know how to it replace the slave cylinder? Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice for bleeding clutch fluid.
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1. 95' Honda Accord EX Coupe, 1994 JDM H22A (Front-Clip), AEM Cold Air Intake, JDM Headers (JAZMA), 2.25' Test Pipe, World Sport 2 Exhaust. 2. 05' Suzuki GSX-R 1000 - ( Future Mod ) Tri - Oval Yoshumira Full-Exhaust system / Carbon Fiber. |
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#9 |
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The Trisexual
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: The asshole of the USA, New Jersey
Age: 22
Posts: 8,874
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Ride: 2007 Civic, 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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the slave is easy to replace
2 bolts, 1 hydraulic line....maybe 2 extra. Pull it off, put the new one on and bleed away. It's real easy on FWD hondas....now on a FR Porsche, it was a bitch __________________
DO NOT PM ME WITH TECH QUESTIONS!!! Current Rides 1992 Chevy S-10 Ext. Cab Previous 1992 Civic DX Hatch = 1994 B18B1 Turbo Rebuilt Garrett .60/.48 T3, log style mani and DIY downpipe, DSM 440's, kteller IC piping, JRC Intercooler, Home Depot style oil lines, HKS BOV, Crome Tuned, 253whp 1994 Civic VX Hatch, 1992 b18a1 swap 1993 Civic CX Hatch, 2000 B18b1 |
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#10 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Aberdeen, Washington State
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-------------------- -------------------- 2003 Chevy Avalanche Leather, Moonroof, Z71, tow package, bose+six disc, nice. 1992 Accord EX (sold to good friends) JDM H22A H22A Auto Tranny w/LSD I/H/E -- All stainless w/2.5 inch Catback 1968 Oldsmobile Toronado Project car, 455 ci front wheel drive, nasty. |
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#12 |
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ZOMG WTF!?!
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Instructions to bleed Clutch Release system.
Tools needed: A sharp a object. such as a Knife or shank. A good set of eyes. Procedure: Step 1: Locate the rubber section of your hydraulic clutch line that feeds into the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Step 2: Take the knife and stab it. Step 3: Using your get set of eyes, watch it bleed. ^^^^ dont do that... OP, if you had fluid everywhere and its not from a broken line. then your going to need to replace that slave cylinder. which should cost about 20 bucks (for a civic) or so. clutch cylinders arent hard to do, but bleeding them is fun too for me atleast. Basically your going to bleed it like brakes. your buddy gets in there and pumps the pedal, then holds it down, then you release the pressure. then you repeat till your satisfied with it. __________________
Do not PM me with tech questions Support your local Strippers.
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#13 |
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Greenhorn
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ask your friend for help or if you could find a way to press and hold the clutch pedal down using your car's driver's seat then great.
1.open your car's hood and the clutch fluid reservoir. 2.tell you friend to press down the clutch pedal and hold it there. 3.you: locate the slave cylinder, and as your friend has his foot pressing down the clutch pedal you will see that the pushing rod of the slave cylinder is extended (open). now open the bleeder (becareful with the fluid not to spill on your eyes) and as you open the bleeder you will see fluid coming out as well as the pushing rod going back to its original position, when the pushing rod stops and with the bleeder still open, push the rod all the way inside untill it stops and hold it there, now tighten the bleeder and then let go of the pushing rod. as you do this extra step you will see more fluid and some air bubbles come out through the bleeder. 4.do not pull up the clutch pedal yet. add some fluid to the reservoir, enough so that the level is at the max line. 5.you or your friend could now pull up the clutch pedal. check the reserviour again, and add fluid enough so that the level is at the max line. repeat steps 2 through 5 four times. when you are done do not forget to close the fluid reservoir and remove any tools used from the engine bay, BUT remember to go for a ride. |
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#14 | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2006
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Thanks for the input. Unfortunately you are beating a dead horse because you are adding to a 5 year old thread!
Try and help out on newer threads. Thanks ![]() edit: HOLY 36,000 views. This one is a money maker __________________
Quote:
93' dx hatch jdm b18c - jrsc 8psi s300 440cc RC's |
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